Kansai | Blue Lapis Road

FIRST GETAWAY SINCE THE PANDEMIC, Kyoto (京都) and Kinosaki Onsen (城崎温泉), Japan. 2022.12.26 – 2023.01.01

After returning from Sri Lanka in December 2019, we never thought it would be another three years before we could travel again. Haven’t traveled for such a long time, it almost felt a little surreal when we went online to purchase the plane tickets. In fact, our trip was a rather ad-hoc decision made less than ten days before departure. To resume traveling after Covid, Japan was an intuitive choice for us, where cities are clean, people friendly, and the food fantastic. A revisit to Kyoto was always in our mind since our last visit in 2016. Kyoto is such an amazing city where we can wander around aimlessly from dawn till dusk, just to take in the rich history, seasonal colours, and serene ambience. Apart from Kyoto, we picked Kinosaki Onsen, a hot spring town 2.5 hours train ride away, as a side trip. After booking one of the last Kinosaki ryokan rooms available online, buying a new suitcase (we threw out the old one during the pandemic), and uploading our vaccination papers to the Japanese authorities, we could finally think about what to do in Kyoto. The planning turned out not as easy as we thought, since many attractions, museums, shops and restaurants would be closed around the New Year. On the other hand, staying in Kyoto for the New Year to witness their traditional celebrations could be a unique and remarkable experience.

After hosting our best friend for dinner at our apartment on Christmas Day, we left for the airport before dawn on Boxing Day. Hong Kong International Airport was full of outbound travelers like us, who were desperate to fly out the city as soon as the Covid restrictions were relaxed. We were overwhelmed by joy and excitement as soon as we boarded the plane. Didn’t recall we have ever got so excited just to look out the window and watch the plane lifting off. After three hours of flying, our plane made a turn over the mouth of Yoshino River (吉野川) and Tokushima (徳島), and gradually descended over the waters of Wakayama Bay (和歌山湾) and Osaka Bay (大阪湾) towards Kansai Airport. Several minutes later, our plane gently touched down onto the tarmac runway, signifying our return to Japan after 3.5 years. Despite the additional Covid related procedures, our arrival at Kansai Airport was rather smooth and hassle free. After picking up the JR rail passes and topping up our old ICOCA cards, we hopped on the Haruka Express train bounded for Kyoto Station (京都駅).

Evening had already fallen upon by the time we arrived in Kyoto. Under the glazed canopy, the splendid station atrium was teeming with rush hour travelers. We found our way to Shijo Karasuma (四条烏丸), checked in at our hotel, and immediately headed out to look for a restaurant (as we had skipped lunch on the plane). In Downtown Kyoto, we were spoiled with dining options. Before eating, we stopped by a small shop selling traditional Kyoto pickles or Tsukemono (漬物), a regional household delicacy dated back to the pre refrigeration years. All kinds of local vegetables pickled in salt, soya sauce, vinegar, or miso, and packed in lovely wrapping. It was impossible to resist and we ended up getting some to bring home. For dinner, we picked a cozy izakaya with a decent menu of deep fried Kyoto snacks. Fried shrimps and beef skewers topped with sea urchin, all washed down with sips of local sake. What a perfect treat to make us forget about the pandemic misery and officially kick start our short Kyoto vacation.

We arrived at Hong Kong International Airport after sunrise. [2022.12.26]

It was exciting to resume traveling after three years of pandemic. [2022.12.26]

Our plane made a turn over Yoshino River and Tokushima before descending to Osaka Bay and Kansai International Airport. [2022.12.26]

The JR office at Kansai Airport is often the first site where foreign travelers would visit. [2022.12.26]

By the time we hopped on a Kyoto bounded Haruka Express train, the sun was already setting. [2022.12.26]

Kyoto Station was teemed with pedestrians when we arrived in the evening. [2022.12.26]

Outside the station, the 131m-Kyoto Tower stood proudly as the tallest structure in the city. [2022.12.26]

The inner streets of Shijo Karasuma were full of lovely *machiya* (町家), traditional wooden houses with ground floor shops and upper residences. [2022.12.26]

Housed in *machiya*, small shops or restaurants in Downtown Kyoto were cozy and warm. [2022.12.26]

Before dinner, we stopped by Eirakuya (永楽屋室町店) to shop for traditional Kyoto pickles or *Tsukemono* (漬物) and Japanese confections. (2022.12.26)

We ended up picking an izakaya serving deep fried snacks for dinner. [2022.12.26]

The deep fried snacks went perfectly well with sake and beer. [2022.12.26]

Our hotel blended in well with the surrounding *machiya* houses. [2022.12.26]

A lush green courtyard sat silently as the centerpiece of our hotel lobby. [2022.12.26]

During breakfast time, our hotel restaurant was quite popular among local Japanese. [2022.12.27]

Just a stone throw away from our hotel, Karasuma Dori (烏丸通り) is the main north south thoroughfare in Kyoto. [2022.12.27]

A morning stroll around the neighbourhood of Shijo Karasuma brought us face to face with many *machiya* houses. [2022.12.27]

Since Kyoto was spared from bombing during WWII, many *machiya* houses survive till the present day. [2022.12.27]

Other than traditional houses, minimalist modern buildings dotted around Shijo Karasuma as well. [2022.12.27]

Interesting buildings include this office block near our hotel. [2022.12.27]

But what caught our eyes in most cases were always the timber *machiya* houses of Kyoto. [2022.12.27]

January 22, 2023 | Categories: Honshu: Kansai Region, Japan, Japan: Kyoto & Kinosaki Onsen 2022, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: airport, 町家, Eirakuya, Haruka, Hong Kong, Japan, Japanese, Kansai, Kinosaki, KIX, Kyoto, machiya, onsen, plane, Shijo Karasuma, station, Tower, train, tsukemono, 四条烏丸, 城崎, 永楽屋, 温泉, 京都, 漬物 | 2 Comments

DAY 1 (1/6): ARRIVAL AT HIGASHIYAMA (東山), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.03

Our departure schedule to Kansai International Airport (関西国際空港) was far from ideal. It was a red-eye flight departing from Hong Kong at 1:50am and arrived in Japan at around 6:30am. At the airport, we picked up our pre-ordered Haruka Express ticket from the JR ticket office and rushed to the platform for the Kyoto bound express train that was about to leave. The train sped past towns and suburbs along Osaka Bay and reached Osaka in about 40 minutes. From Osaka, the train took another half an hour to reach Kyoto. Opened in 1997, the current Kyoto Railway Station is a futuristic building made of glass and steel trusses, with an enormous atrium and a huge stepped plaza reaching multiple storeys up to the sky garden 70m above ground. We stepped out the station for a quick peek of Kyoto Tower, the city’s tallest structure opened in 1964 coinciding with the Tokyo Olympics. Together with the modern railway station, the tower often comes as a surprise for tourists who come to Kyoto expecting to see an 1200-year-old ancient city.

We took the escalators down to the subway, topped up our Icoca cards that we kept from our previous Kansai trip, and managed to board the train with our suitcase and backpack. Our designation was Higashiyama Station (東山駅) on the Tozai Line. We reached Higashiyama Station at a peaceful residential neighborhood sandwiched between two of Kyoto’s popular tourist areas: Northern Higashiyama (Nanzenji, Ginkakuji, etc) and Southern Higashiyama (Gion, Kiyomizu-dera, etc). At Higashiyama Station, we purchased a city bus pass for the day and picked up a handy bus map. We crossed the street and walked into a quiet alleyway right beside the crystal clear Shirakawa River (白川). We reached Eco and Tech, a 2-star budget hotel that we would call it home for the next five days. After checking in, we immediately headed out to the bus stop near Sanjo Station (三条駅) and Kamo River (鴨川). Before arriving in Japan, we had already decided to begin our Kyoto visit at the northwest part of the city where the cluster of three famous temples Ryoanji (龍安寺), Ninnaji (仁和寺) and Kinkakuji (金閣寺) are located. According to online updates of the autumn foliage at Kyoto’s main attractions, Ryoanji (龍安寺) and Ninnaji Temple (仁和寺) were two possible places where we might still encounter peak autumn foliage. Because of the recent cold weather, the autumn foliage of 2016 came earlier than usual. By the time we arrived on Dec 3rd, the fall foliage at most places had already passed the peak. The bus ride took over half an hour. It was sunny and we took a brief rest on the bus under the late morning sun.

Our plane landed at Kansai International Airport (関西国際空港) at about 6:30am. Despite a sleepless night, we were very excited upon arriving.

We left the airport and over to the railway station for JR’s Haruka Express train.

Upon arriving at Kyoto, we were overwhelmed by the steel trusses and overhead catwalks at the huge atrium of the futuristic Kyoto Station.

A large Christmas tree on the organic shaped platform looked small under the huge atrium roof.

Across the street from Kyoto Station stood the tallest structure in the city, Kyoto Tower.

Advertisements on the subway train reminded us that the special night visits to a number of temples were available during the autumn foliage season until 4th of December. Arriving in Kyoto on the 3rd of December, we made just on time for the night visits.

Many Kyoto’s attractions can be accessed only by public bus. We picked up a bus map from the ticket office at Higashiyama Subway Station, which proved really handy over the next few days.

We managed to carry our suitcase up the stairs and finally reached the exit of Higashiyama Station.

Following online instruction, we crossed a bridge at Shirakawa River (白川) on our way to our hotel.

A local couple dressed in traditional costumes were taking photos on a stone bridge at Shirakawa River (白川).

Eco and Tech Hotel is located in a quiet residential neighborhood away from the tourist crowds.

Eco and Tech Hotel.

We checked the website http://souda-kyoto.jp/travel/koyo/ for the autumn foliage at Kyoto’s main attractions almost daily for at least a week before departure. We decided to head to Ryoanji Temple on our first day because of its peak colours.

We walked to a bus stop near Kamo River (鴨川) and Sanjo Station (三条駅) for Bus 59 heading towards Ryoanji Temple (龍安寺).

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December 29, 2016 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kyoto and Nara 2016, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: Architecture, bus, 白川, Eco and Tech, Haruka, Higashiyama, Japan, Japanese, Kamo, Kansai, Kyoto, railway, Shirakawa, station, Tower, train, 東山, 京都 | Leave a comment

Day 9 – CHURCH OF LIGHT, Osaka (大阪市), Japan

If there was one architect that redefined Japanese architecture during the 1990s it would be Tadao Ando. And if there was one project that best exemplified the essence of Ando’s architecture it would be Ibaraki Kasugaoka Church, or the Church of Light. Located 25km northeast of Osaka, Ando’s Church of Light is a pilgrim destination in the world of architects and designers. The precise use of natural light, minimalist layout, smooth pour in-situ concrete walls, modular spatial proportions, and zenist interplay of void and solid converges into an architectural masterpiece with a volume no bigger than a small house.

The Church of Light opens only on specific days of the week, usually on Sunday but sometimes also Wednesday and Saturday. Visiting the church requires advanced reservation online. It was about 20 minutes of train ride from Osaka Station to Ibaraki, a residential neighborhood in the outskirt of Osaka. From Ibaraki station, it was another short local bus ride to reach the closest bus stop to the Church of Light. It was a peaceful Sunday when we visited, we found our way to the main entrance of the church complex, which was consisted of the Church of Light and the Sunday School, a latter addition to the complex also designed by Ando. We registered with the staff at the reception of the Sunday School, and was then led into the famous Church of Light. Once inside, we had all the time we needed to examine the architecture, take photos, and take in the spiritual atmosphere.

We stayed at the church for over an hour, until it was time for us to return to Osaka Tennoji Station, where we would take the Haruka Express for the Kansai Airport. Nine days of Osaka, Kobe, and the spiritual Kumano Kodo gave us a refreshing spring break, with joyful memories from the splendid cherry blossoms, spiritual scenery, fantastic seafood, to poetic architecture.

Osaka Station, with its recently added canopy.

We got off the local bus at the community park at Ibaraki, where the Church of Light was just around the corner.

The church complex with the Sunday School on the left and Church of Light on the right, both designed by Tadao Ando.

Entrance pathway to the church.

Slit windows and architectural concrete are the common design language in Ando’s works.

Interior of the Sunday School.

Overall interior view of the Church of Light.

The iconic slit opening of cruciform in the Church of Light.

The large pipe organ at the back of the church.

Indirect natural light is introduced into the space through an opening that is created by a slant wall at a 15 degree angle.

Side view of the cruciform opening at the altar.

Glazed wall meeting concrete wall at the church entrance.

The curved vestibule connecting the Sunday School and Church of Light.

A small outdoor gathering space between the school and the church, occupied by a man in suit playing badminton with a young lady. It was lovely to see how people making use of the space and we were both touched by this scene, for some reasons.

After a thorough visit to the Church of Light and a relaxing stroll in the laid back neighbourhood of Ibaraki, we returned to the Osaka Station. The station was busy and filled with people but somehow everything remained in good order.

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Read other posts on 2015 Kansai…
Day 1.0 – Kansai Japan 2015
Day 1.1 – Hanami, Mount Yoshino
Day 1.2 – Feast under the Shades of Sakura, Mount Yoshiko
Day 2 – A Day in Kobe
Day 3 – A Day in Central Osaka
Day 4 – Tanabe – Prelude of the Kumano Kodo
Day 5.1 – Takijiri to Takahara, Kumano Kodo
Day 5.2 – Takahara to Tsugizakura , Kumano Kodo
Day 5.3 – Minshuku Tsugizakura, Kumano Kodo
Day 6.1 – Tsugizakura to Mikoshi-Toge Pass, Kumano Kodo
Day 6.2 – Mikoshi-Toge Pass to Hongu Taisha, Kumano Kodo
Day 6.3 – Kumano Hongu Taisha to Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.1 – Ryokan Adumaya, Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.2 – Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.3 – Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.4 – Wataze Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 8.1 – Kumano Nachi Taisha, Kumano Kodo
Day 8.2 – Kii Katsuura, Kumano Kodo
Day 9 – Church of Light, Osaka

September 22, 2015 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kansai 2015, Osaka and Kobe | Tags: Ando, Architecture, building, church, design, 茨木春日丘教会, Ibaraki, Japan, Japanese, Kansai, Kasugaoka, Light, minimalism, Osaka, Tadao, 大阪駅 | 1 Comment

DAY 7 – KUMANO HONGU TAISHA, Kumano Kodo (熊野古道) 3 of 4, Japan

At Hongu, we dropped off our backpacks at a locker across the street from the main entrance of Kumano Hongu Taisha. We then went to check out the heritage centre where we learnt a little more about the history of Kumano Hongu Grand Taisha and the Kii mountain range. The Kumano Hongu Taisha is the house for the deity of Kumano Gongen, where pilgrims came to pay their respect to the deities of Kumano area for almost 1000 years. Every spring, the Kumano Hongu Taisha Spring Festival would take place with three days of ceremonies.

On a bench outside of the centre, we took out the lunchboxes for a quick lunch. The yummy lunchboxes were ordered online before we left for our trip and delivered to our hotel at Yunomine in the morning. After lunch, we took our time to visit Kumano Hongu Taisha a second time. This time, we had more time to examine the donor lanterns, flags, signs, etc. along the main access path. After a relaxing stroll around the complex, we walked down the main entrance stairs one last time under the afternoon sun. We picked up our backpacks at the locker and walked over to the bus stop in front of the heritage centre, where we would hop on a bus for Wataze Onsen.

The banner at Kumano Hongu Heritage Center commemorated the 10th anniversary of inscription into UNESCO’s World Heritage for “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range”.

The Heritage Center represents a good example of modern architecture with a traditional touch.

33.9m tall and 42m wide, the Torii gate at the entrance to the sandbank of Oyunohara is the largest in the world. This is where the original Kumano Hongu Taisha stood over a century ago, before the devastating floods destroyed much of the old shrines.

Along with our accommodation and luggage shuttle service, we also reserved this local lunchbox online at http://www.tb-kumano.jp prior our arrival in Japan.

Housed in a bamboo box, our lunchbox contained a number of seasonal local delicacies.

Rebuilt after flood damages, the Zuihouden next to the entrance of Kumano Hongu Taisha houses religious study areas, a hall and a souvenir shop.

The stair leading up to the main shrine is flanked both sides with donor flags.

Worshipers put all kinds of wishes onto these wooden “ema” to communicate with the deities.

Tying the Omikuji, the fortune telling paper slips onto trees or ropes at the shrine is a common customs of worshiping.

Small bamboo flags were another common option for worshipers to leave their messages.

Before entering the complex, cleaning our hands at the purification trough had become a common practice even for foreign visitors like us.

Wooden staff in hand, lots of elderly worshipers spend great effort in walking the pilgrim route before reaching Kumano Hongu Taisha.

Our second visit to the Hongu Taisha. This time we had all the time we needed to wander around the complex.

Beside the main shrines stood this small and popular shrine under tree shade.

After a thorough visit, we walked down the main stair once again.

Lanterns with donor’s name were hung on a rack near the main gate of Kumano Hongu Taisha.

We bid farewell to the Kumano Hongu Taisha under the late afternoon sun.

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September 18, 2015 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kansai 2015, Kumano Kodo | Tags: 熊野本宮大社, 熊野権現, 紀伊山地, gongen, hongu, Japan, Kansai, Kii, kodo, Kumano, oji, Oyunohara, pilgrimage, Shrine, taisha, torii, Wakayama, Yunomine, 大斎原 | Leave a comment

DAY 5 – TAKAHARA to TSUGIZAKURA, Kumano Kodo (熊野古道) 2 of 3, Japan

At around 10:30am, we left Takahara and continued to hike east towards Tsugizakura. In the next seven hours, we passed by a number of shrines, including Daimon Oji, Jujo Oji, Osakamoto Oji and stopped by the Chikatsuyu Village. We took our time along the way, checking out almost every shrine and lookout, some of which required a short detour from the main trail. The shrines (Oji) were in various conditions of preservation, from decently intact to completely in ruins or even disappeared entirely except an interpretation signpost. In Tsugizakura, a small village 18km from where we began our hike at Takijiri, we checked in at Minshuku Tsugizakura.

After Takahara, dense forest took over the scenery of rice fields and green rolling hills.

Soon after we ventured into the forest we encountered two timber shelters.

Perhaps these shelters were resting huts for local loggers.

Evidence of forestry was common along Kumano Kodo.

At each major oji (shrine) along Kumano Kodo stood a wooden shelter where hikers can obtain a souvenir stamp chop.

A small porcelain cup at Osakamoto Oji was left for hikers to leave a small offering.

Although small, the statues at Gyubadoji shrine were beautifully carved.

More detailed stone carvings were found at Gyubadoji shrine.

At 3pm, we were approaching the village of Chikatsuyu, a popular destination for hikers to stay the night.

We entered the village of Chikatsuyu via a bridge spanning across the Hiki-gawa River. The atmosphere of Chikatsuyu resembled an Alpine village in Europe.

While many hikers stopped at Chikatsuyu for the night, we still had another 1.5 hour before reaching Tsugizakura, where we could finally rest for the night at Tsugizakura Minshuku.

We passed by a number of self-served vending spots where local villagers left their agricultural products or handcrafts for sale.

Along the way, we saw a number of interesting scarecrows.

Before leaving Chikatsuyu we saw a large school complex.

Inside the school fence, a cool playground equipment caught our attention.

Upon leaving Chikatsuyu, we passed by a long flight of stair leading up to the torii gate of a local shrine.

By the time we reached Hisohara Oji in half an hour, it was only twenty minutes away from Tsugizakura.

Because of the humid climate, much of the stone pavement and walls were carpeted with moss.

Finally at about 5pm we reached the famous torii gate of Tsugizakura Oji. Tsugizakura means “grafted cherry tree”. Accordingly to historical account, an aristocrat from the 12th century passed by a cherry tree grafted on a Japanese cypress at this location. Today, a number of century-old Japanese cedar trees still remain.

At top of the stairs beyond the torii gate stood the shrine. We clapped our hands, paid a small offering, and were grateful for reaching Tsugizakura after a long day of walking in relatively good weather.

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June 2, 2015 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kansai 2015, Kumano Kodo | Tags: Chikatsuyu, 熊野古道, 紀伊山地, Daimon, Gyubadoji, Hisohara, Japan, Jujo, Kansai, Kii, kodo, Kumano, mountains, Nakahechi, oji, Osakamoto, pilgrimage, Shrine, Takahara, Tanabe, Tsugizakura, Wakayama | Leave a comment

DAY 5 – TAKIJIRI to TAKAHARA, Kumano Kodo (熊野古道) 1 of 3, Japan

Along with Way of St. James in Spain, Japan’s Kumano Kodo is one of the two pilgrim routes inscribed as an UNESCO World Heritage. We first came across Kumano Kodo during travel research when we were looking for an off-the-beaten path destination in Japan. Learning the historical and spiritual significance of the centuries-old pilgrim trail, we immediately fell in love with Kumano Kodo. Since the 10th century, pilgrims from Kyoto and other Japanese cities took the Kumano Kodo to reach the sacred sites of Kumano Sanzan (熊野三山) in the Kii Mountains. The Kumano Sanzan includes three sacred mountain shrines: Kumano Hongu Taisha (熊野本宮大社), Kumano Nachi Taisha (熊野那智大社), and Kumano Hayatama Taisha (熊野速玉大社). Nowadays, the Kumano Kodo is a popular hiking destination for both local and international hikers. Most visitors do the Kumano Kodo as a three-to-five day hike, staying at minshuku (local bed and breakfast) along the way. In the middle of Kii Mountains near Kumano Hongu Taisha lies the famous Yunomine Onsen, the oldest hot spring in the country. Most pilgrims, past or present, would go for a dip in the healing hot spring after days of walking. Out of the various Kumano Kodo routes, we decided to take the popular Nakahechi route from Takijiri to Hongu Taisha. This route would take two days. On the first day, we walked from Takijiri to Tsugizakura (18.2km), and the second from Tsugizakura to Hongu Taisha (22.1km). Another rainy day to start off with. From Tanabe train station, we took the 6:50 bus heading into the mountains. At 7:28 we get off at Takijiri (滝尻), the official trail head of the Nakahechi route. The Kumano Kodo visitor centre had not yet opened its doors. At 7:30, the van of our backpack shuttle service arrived and we gratefully handed over our backpack to the driver, who would deliver our bag to the minshuku where we were staying the night. Along the way on Kumano Kodo, there are many oji shrines. These oji are subsidary shrines of the Kumano grand shrines. Takijiri Oji is situated right at the trail head of the Nakahechi route of Kumano Kodo. One of the first things encountered on Kumano Kodo was the beautiful cedar forest. The rain stopped soon after we ascended into the mountains. High up on the first lookout we could admire the picturesque valley and distant mountains of the Kii Mountain Range. Mount Meshimori-yama, the first lookout on the trail. About 1.5 hour from Takijiri, we were soon approaching the village of Takahara (高原). Small family farms overlooking the Kii Mountain Range. In Takahara, we visited a local wood shop. The scent of the local wood filled the entire shop. The owner showed us his master piece, wooden frame of a double bed. Beside the workshop there was a small souvenir shop selling all kinds of things made of wood, from key chains to photo frames. Takahara is an attractive small mountain village famous for its mountain views and morning sea of clouds. Takahara Kumano-jinja, the main shrine in the mountain village of Takahara. From Takahara Kiri-no-Sato rest area, we stayed for a short while to enjoy the view. The vending machine at Takahara Kiri-no-Sato rest area was selling all kinds of drinks. At Takahara Kiri-no-Sato rest area we ate the snacks that the wood shop owner gave us. After Takahara Kiri-no-Sato rest area the sign pointing to Chikatsuyu Oji, the next major village about 9km down the road. After a few more minutes of walking, we exited the village of Takahara and came to a fork road where a cherry tree stood and a “Kumano Kodo” sign that pointed to an uphill path. At the top of the path we came across a number of rice paddy fields. In the reflection of the blue sky, rows of young seedlings shooting upwards against a backdrop of the Kii mountains.

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May 30, 2015 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kansai 2015, Kumano Kodo | Tags: 熊野速玉大社, 熊野那智大社, 熊野古道, 熊野本宮大社, 紀伊山地, 高原, hiking, Japan, Kansai, Kumano, Kumano Kodo, minshuku, Nakahechi, Takahara, Takijiri, Tanabe, Wakayama, Yunomine, 滝尻 | Leave a comment

DAY 4 – PRELUDE OF THE KUMANO KODO, Tanabe (田辺市), Japan

It was a rainy day. Leaving Osaka’s Tennoji Station behind, the JR Kuroshio limited express took us southwards to Kii-Tanabe. The train ride took slightly less than 2 hours. The rain stopped by the time we arrived Tanabe in the afternoon. As planned, we walked to the souvenir shop beside the station to pick up the keys of our reserved timber townhouse, where we would stay the night. The host handed us a map and a leaflet of house rules. We put on our backpacks, stepped out the shop, and found our way into the winding streets of Tanabe. Situated along the southwest coast of Kii Peninsula, Tanabe is a fishing city in Wakayama Prefecture. Throughout history, Tanabe had been the traditional starting point of the Kumano Kodo where pilgrims turned away from the coast to enter the inland mountains. Through the mountainous trails eastwards, pilgrims would wind through the Kii Mountains and reached Hongu Taisha, the most sacred shrine in this pilgrimage area in about two days. This route is known as Nakahechi Route, and has become the most popular route among all Kumano Kodo trails today. We also chose to explore Kumano Kodo via Nakahechi Route. Tanabe, therefore, became the obvious place where we would spend the night before heading into the mountains. We arrived at Kii Tanabe in the afternoon. We were intrigued by the minimalist house setback from the street on a narrow lot. No surprise, the seaside town of Tanabe is a great place for seafood. We dropped in a local restaurant called Ginchiro Ekimae near the train station. The local dish in Tanabe includes the double-decked seafood rice bowl. The lower bowl contained rice and small silver fish.The upper bowl included sashimi, cooked seafood and sour plums. Community shrine.Near the railway station there is a network of small lanes lined with restaurants and izakayas. Two security patrols sat at the central intersection of the main lanes waiting for the night to fall upon.

Finally we arrived at Konyamachiya Townhouse, the traditional two-storey timber house where we would spend the night. Konyamachiya Townhouse is a Machiya townhouse 町屋, a type of traditional timber townhouse found in much of Kyoto area.

The house was tidy, spacious, atmospheric and furnished with handmade furniture. The dining room opened to a small garden deck. The kitchenette was neatly situated behind a wall of sliding panels, which could be fully concealed when not in use.There were two tatami bedrooms on the upper level. The traditional wooden structure of the roof was completely exposed. It had been raining most of the day. There scent of the bamboo mats was very strong when we entered the room. A neat lamp made of bamboo by local artisan was a decent feature in the bedroom. A long and winding yellow street connected the neighborhood of our Konyamachiya Townhouse to the town centre.The yellow-painted street passed by shops of various kinds.Traditional shrines and temples were very well maintained in many cities in Japan, including Tanabe.This shrine near our Konyamachiya Townhouse offered a sense of peacefulness in an already relaxed fishing town. At last we stopped by a traditional soba (蕎麦) restaurant for dinner. It was already quite late in the night. The chef prepared us whatever left available for us. A simple soba dinner, including tempura shrimps and vegetables, was one of the most special meal for our trip. No tourist menu, and no sample images. A simple and unpretentious effort from the chef just before the restaurant closed its doors gave us an unforgettable pleasure of a local dining experience in a small Japanese town. From the dike of Aizu-gawa River, we looked back at the end of Konya-machi, the street where our townhouse stood. A quiet night in the sleepy town of Tanabe, we awaited the arrival of the beginning of our hike the next day.