WAY OF THE CROSS AT OUR LADY OF JOY ABBEY (聖母神樂院), Lantau Island (大嶼山), Hong Kong

From the small ferry dock, a shaded winding road led all arriving visitors uphill. As we walked up, faint prayer songs in Cantonese, English, Mandarin and French came to us from different directions. Local Hongkongers, Western expats, Filipinos, and Mainland Chinese came in small separate groups, walked on the same path and stopped at the fourteen Stations of the Cross to recite prayers at their own pace and in their own language. Despite their differences, they all came to Tai Shui Hang (大水坑) on Lantau Island (大嶼山) for one reason: to commemorate the crucifixion and resurrection of Jesus on Good Friday at Our Lady of Joy Abbey (聖母神樂院), the Roman Catholic monastery that was formerly known as Trappist Haven Monastery. For two years in a row, we visited the abbey at around Easter, which shall be one of the busiest times of the year. We came to learn about the abbey’s history, take in the spiritual ambience, and watch the pilgrims sang and pray. Getting to the abbey from Central was no easy task. Last year we took a ferry to Discovery Bay (愉景灣) and stopped by the monastery halfway during our hike to Mui Wo (梅窩). This year, we reached the monastery by boat from the Island of Peng Chau (坪洲).

As a city renowned for its intermix of Eastern and Western cultures, Chinese festivals are not the only events celebrated by Hongkongers. For the 1.3 million Christians in town, Easter has a much more spiritual meaning than chocolate eggs, clothed bunnies and a 4-day long weekend. Most religious ceremonies happen in churches around the city. But at Our Lady of Joy Abbey, the commemoration of Good Friday takes place outdoor on the Way of the Cross (苦路). Devoted Christians flock to this remote venue in small groups, each with their own prayer booklets for recital at the Stations of the Cross. Beyond the fourteen stations, a lovely garden pavilion with a statue of Virgin Mary and an elegant abbey church welcome all pilgrims at the end of the journey.

While many Hongkongers have tasted the milk by Trappist Dairy (十字牌牛奶) in the past 60 years, not that many do actually know about the Trappists, and even less has actually set foot in the abbey. First established in France and headquartered in Rome, the Trappists came to Lantau Island in 1951 to set up a new home in the region, after they were forced out of Zhengding during the communist takeover of China. In Lantau, they led a hermetic life under the Rule of Saint Benedict. From 1953, the monastery received cow donations and began to produce small amount of milk for themselves and nearby communities. Production gradually grew in scale to become one of the most popular commercial dairy producers in Hong Kong, whose products are still widely available in supermarkets. Like many people, we know about the milk long before we learn about the Trappists, and we are truly grateful to have “discovered” this unique and otherworldly place in a city where tranquility and spirituality is often hard to come by.

From Discovery Bay, we passed by a few beaches and Nim Shue Wan Village (稔樹灣村) on our way to Our Lady of Joy Abbey. [2023.03]

An abandoned piano on the beach near Nim Shue Wan Village. [2023.03]

Before reaching Our Lady of Joy Abbey, we stopped by an organic farm where we bought a bagful of fresh produce. [2023.03]

Soon we reached Way of the Cross (苦路) of the abbey. Each of the fourteen Stations of the Cross is marked by a wooden cross and an image of Jesus. [2023.03]

On Good Friday, the Way of the Cross is a popular pilgrim route for Christians in Hong Kong. [2024.03]

Wooden crosses used during pilgrimage in the morning of Good Friday. [2024.03]

Beyond the fourteen Stations, a small garden whose entrance is marked by a lovely portal inscribed with Latin “Pax Intrantibus,” which can be roughly translated as “Peace to those who enter.” [2024.03]

The garden’s centerpiece is a Chinese pavilion that houses a statue of Virgin Mary from Portugal. [2023.03]

Probably associated with Ichthus, the Greek word for fish which is also an acronym for Jesus. The fish is one of the oldest Christian symbols since the times of Roman persecution. [2023.03]

The back side of the entrance portal is inscribed in Latin “Salus Exeuntibus”, meaning “good health to those who depart.” [2024.03]

A Bauhinia variegata (宮粉羊蹄甲) stands by the entrance bridge into the main abbey. [2023.03]

A bridge built in 1960 marks the entrance into the abbey. [2023.03]

The main abbey church opens to the public and serves as the main hall to host ceremonies and services. [2023.03]

The simple interior of the main church in Our Lady of Joy Abbey. [2024.03]

The letter X and P are often used as a symbol for Christ. [2023.03]

Nothing fancy, a circular stained glass window allows sea breeze to enter the mezzanine of the church. [2023.03]

The Trappists monks at Our Lady of Joy Abbey follow the Rule of Saint Benedict for their monastic life. [2023.03]

A wooden statue stands at the entrance of the abbey church. [2023.03]

On our way to Mui Wo, we passed by several majestic Cotton Tree (木棉 or 英雄樹). March is the perfect moment to see the crimson cup-shaped flowers. [2023.03]

After a pleasant hike from the abbey, Mui Wo (梅窩) and Silvermine Bay Beach (銀礦灣) appeared right in front of us. [2023.03]

TIN HAU FESTIVAL (天后誕) AT SAI KUNG (西貢), New Territories, Hong Kong

We frequented Sai Kung Peninsula to visit its pristine beaches, hike on some of Hong Kong’s best trails, appreciate the awesome mix of manmade and natural wonders, or hop from island to island in the Mirs Bay. But there was one time we went to this “Back Garden of Hong Kong” not for its natural beauty, but for the cultural heritage of its Boat People and Hakka communities. A few days after we visited Tsing Yi Bamboo Theatre, we found ourselves once again in a community festival dedicated to Tin Hau, the Goddess of the Sea. This time, we arrived at Sai Kung Town, a seafood paradise and transportation hub that we often pass by on our way to other destinations in the area. Celebrations of Tin Hau Festival (天后誕) began at Tin Hau & Hip Tin Temple (天后古廟及協天大帝廟), a lovely historical complex dedicated to both Tin Hau and Kwan Tai (關帝), the God of War and Righteousness. Similar to other traditional festivals in Hong Kong, colourful flower plaques (花牌) were the first things we saw as we approached the temple and festival ground. In front of the temple, a large bamboo theatre was erected to house performances of Shen Gong opera (神功戲), the ritual operas dedicated to the deity.

On the slope behind the temple, the former Sai Kung Primary School was temporarily converted into a visitor centre, displaying cultural heritage of the community and Tin Hau Festival. Despite modest in size, it was fun to wander around the former school complex, from courtyards to classrooms where festival artefacts were put on display. Apart from the former school complex, two streets near the temple were blocked off to host a community fair. Among vendors selling jewellery, confections, wine, sake, stalls selling ready-to-eat snacks like grilled meat skewers and bubble tea seemed to be more popular. After indulging ourselves with local snacks, night had already fallen upon. We stopped by the bamboo theatre once again to have a peek of the Cantonese Opera. Actors with traditional makeups and ornate costumes were performing on stage a famous scene from the “Romance of the Three Kingdoms” (三國演義). Outside the theatre, crowds at the street fair had thinned out a little bit, probably many had already gone home for dinner.

Large flower plaques commemorating Tin Hau Festival (天后誕) were set up in front of the Tin Hau & Hip Tin Temple (天后古廟及協天大帝廟). [2023.05]

Apart from Tin Hau, half of the temple is dedicated to Kwan Tai (關帝), the God of War and Righteousness. [2023.05]

Many locals who grew up in the former fishing communities still worship Tin Hau today. [2023.05]

The listed temple building showcases many fine architectural ornaments and details, including the sculpted relief on the roof ridge. [2023.05]

Staff were busy preparing the stage while a few locals amused themselves at the seating area. [2023.05]

On a slope behind the temple, the former Sai Kung Primary School had been converted into a visitor centre for the festival. [2023.05]

The former school complex is consisted of several classrooms and a central courtyard. [2023.05]

In each classroom, artefacts and festival props were on display. [2023.05]

Ceremonial banners from the temple and former festivals were on display. [2023.05]

Old textile banners from a Tin Hau Festival. [2023.05]

A fa pau (花炮) or paper floral tribute for Tin Hau on display in front of Sai Kung Primary School. [2023.05]

Balloon vendor is a common sight at any fair in Hong Kong. [2023.05]

Two nearby streets were blocked off to host a community fair. [2023.05]

Many came to the fair for snacks. [2023.05]

One of the most popular stalls was the meat skewer vendor. [2023.05]

Flower plaques at the parking lot. [2023.05]

In the evening, Tin Hau & Hip Tin Temple continued to attract worshipers. [2023.05]

A popular scene from the Romance of the Three Kingdoms was performed in the bamboo theatre. [2023.05]

Outside the theatre, the crowd began to thin out as night fell upon. [2023.05]

Many were heading home for dinner, including us. [2023.05]

TSING YI BAMBOO THEATRE (青衣戲棚), Tsing Yi (青衣), New Territories, Hong Kong

Being the Goddess of the Sea, Tin Hau (天后) or the Queen of Heaven, is worshiped in many neighbourhoods in Hong Kong, especially at former fishing communities along the coast and outlying islands. That’s why on the 23rd day of the third month in the Lunar calendar, at the deity’s official birthday, about 70 Tin Hau temples in Hong Kong would perform religious rituals to celebrate Tin Hau Festival (天后誕). Some communities would even host neighbourhood fairs and Cantonese opera shows. In a fine May afternoon of 2023, we learnt about the 10-day festive event Tsing Yi Bamboo Theatre (青衣戲棚) was entering its last weekend at Tsing Yi Island. The annual festival celebrates not only the birthday of Tin Hau, but also of Chun Kwan (真君), another local patron saint originated from a military general in the South Song Dynasty (960 – 1279). Tsing Yi is home to Hong Kong’s only temple dedicated to Chun Kwan, and thus it makes perfect sense to host his “birthday celebration” on the island. Without hesitation, we hopped on a bus for Tsing Yi, an island to the northwest of the Victoria Harbour. Named after the once abundant blackspot tuskfish in the area, the 10.69 sq.km island is home to roughly 200,000 people, a container port, a series of heavy industries, and the world’s 16th-longest span suspension bridge.

It was our first time to visit the festival fair in Tsing Yi. We had no idea what to expect. Occupying the entire Tsing Yi Athletic Association Sports Ground and Soccer Pitch, the fair was larger than what we expected. The grand bamboo theatre was especially impressive, whose front elevation was covered with seven large flower plaques (花牌). While most visitors were busy queuing for fried snacks and drinks, we were excited to check out the religious altars, traditional flower plaques, and of course the bamboo theatre. Light, cheap, durable and environmentally sustainable, bamboo has been used as construction materials in this part of the world for centuries. Today, bamboo theatres are still being erected to celebrate Dajiao Festivals (太平清醮), Hungry Ghost Festival (盂蘭節) and Tin Hau Festival (天后誕), and have become an iconic cultural heritage of the city. They have even become a popular subject for architectural studies, documentary films, and heritage conservation. Probably due to the intense labour and complex skills involved, lesser and lesser people are joining the bamboo construction industry nowadays. Unsurprisingly, bamboo theatres are becoming pricier than temporary steel structures. Yet, many festival organizers and Chinese opera troupes still prefer bamboo structures over the metal counterpart. As long as there is demand, perhaps bamboo theatre would still be erected in Hong Kong.

In the evening, for those who didn’t have tickets like us, standing right by the theatre was the only way to get a peek of the Cantonese opera performance. The audience was predominately elderly from the local neighborhood. For the younger generation, these performances offer a connection to the bygone era of their parents and grandparents, and a window to learn about their own cultural heritage. After watching for a few moments, we decided to wandering around the fair a bit more, and tried some of the grilled squid, stinky tofu, faked shark fin soup, sweet red bean soup…

Seven flower plaques dominated the front elevation of the bamboo theatre. [2023.05]

A flower plaque is a large bamboo banner, usually erected for celebrations of festivals, weddings, and shop openings. [2023.05]

A staff was busy sweeping the floor outside one of the Tin Hau altar. [2023.05]

Kids having fun with themselves in front of the altar. [2023.05]

Chinese pinwheels and incenses are common merchandises in the festival fair. [2023.05]

Chairs and stage had been set up in the bamboo theatre for the evening Cantonese opera shows. [2023.05]

Simple setting and backdrop on the stage. [2023.05]

The complexity of the bamboo structure is clearly seen above the seats. [2023.05]

Cantonese opera remains popular among the older generation. [2023.05]

The altar remained busy in the evening. [2023.05]

After three years of pandemic, the resumed festival was welcomed by all walks of life in the local neighborhood. [2023.05]

The event was popular among children and their parents, [2023.05]

Some of the activity stalls were not so popular, such as the goldfish pond. [2023.05]

Stalls selling nostalgic toys and gifts [2023.05]

But the most popular stalls were always the food and beverages vendors. [2023.05]

More than one stalls were selling stinky tofu from Taiwan. [2023.05]

Incense vendor at night. [2023.05]

No matter it is New Year’s Market or Tin Hau Festival, there would always vendors selling helium balloons. [2023.05]

It was fun to visit a traditional festival fair in Hong Kong. We hope the heritage would continue to thrive in the future. [2023.05]

DA JIU FESTIVAL (太平清醮), Po Toi Island (蒲台島), Hong Kong

Last Saturday was Lantern Festival (元宵節), the 15th day of the first month in the Lunar calendar. It also happened to be the first day of the triennial Da Jiu Festival (太平清醮 or 打醮) on Po Toi Island (蒲台島), the southernmost point in Hong Kong. From Aberdeen (香港仔), extra boats to the island were scheduled throughout the five-day festival. We took the 11am boat among dozens of former islanders. Once home to about 2000 inhabitants in the 1950’s, there are now less than a dozen people call Po Toi their permanent home. Triangular flags of vivid colours greeted us at the main dock. A few years have passed since we last visited Po Toi. Before checking out the festival, we stopped by Po Toi Mui Kee Dessert (蒲苔妹記糖水) to treat ourselves with green bean dessert soup made with the island’s seaweed. A short walk took us to Tai Wan (大灣), where the main village and Tin Hau Temple (Goddess of the Sea) are located. Tucked in the river valley behind the village, a temporary shelter was erected with bamboo structure and metal sheets, providing one of the main festival venues where ceremonies and traditional theatre performances would take place. At the bamboo theatre, volunteers were all over the place preparing for the festival: some were setting up the stage while others were making vegetarian meals. Before heading back out, we stopped by the paper crafted giant (a common feature that would be burnt at the end of the festival) to admire the local traditional handicraft that is becoming rarer in recent years.

Back in the village, we followed a group of photographers to a crowded path intersection. We joined the crowd and soon heard some sort of ceremonial procession coming down from the adjacent hill. Minutes later, members of the procession walked down one by one, each carrying a distinct ceremonial items, such as flags, incense burner, textile banners, traditional music instruments, and the most important of all, a small seated statue of Tin Hau (天后). Apparently, the ceremonial procession had just finished some rituals at the temple, and were on their way to the bamboo theatre. We followed them back to the theatre and watched them performing a number of rituals. We didn’t stay the evening for the theatre performances. Before hopping on the last daytime boat back to the city, we went to check out Tin Hau Temple at the far side of Tai Wan. The half day visit of Po Toi gave us a brief insight into the island’s Da Jiu Festival, a fading tradition that many Hong Kongers don’t even know its existence.

In 2014, we visited the island of Cheung Chau (長洲) during the Bun Festival and were captivated by the colourful rituals and spectacles of the event. Then in 2019 we revisited Cheung Chau’s Bun Festival to watch the Parade of Floats. The annual Cheung Chau’s Bun Festival is actually an enhanced event derived from the Da Jiu Festival (太平清醮 or 打醮), a Taoist ritual requesting local deities to bestow harmony and prosperity to the community. Da Jiu Festival is practiced in many villages of Southern China and Taiwan. In Hong Kong, the festival is still performed in a handful of rural and island communities like Po Toi Island. Each community’s festival has its unique origin and ceremonies, and distinct frequency for hosting such event, from once a year to once every decade, 15, 30 or even 60 years. Recently, we came across a lovely local documentary called Winter Chants (冬未來). The film documents the once in a decade Da Jiu Festival in Ho Chung village of Sai Kung during Covid 19. It illustrates the logistical, cultural and financial challenges the festival is facing today, especially when many villagers have already moved overseas, not to mention the extreme difficulties during the pandemic. Yet, it also depicts how such a century-old tradition has maintained a unique bonding for the community no matter how far villagers have moved, and how their descendants from Europe and Americas have come to participate in the event, reconnecting to their distant and relatively unknown heritage. From a religious ritual in the past, Da Jiu Festival has gradually evolved into a community reunion for some and a valuable cultural heritage for the rest of Hong Kong.

Colourful flower plaque and traditional flags greeted all visitors to Po Toi Island during the triennial Da Jiu Festival. [2024.02]

A short walk took us from the dock to Tai Wan (大灣), where the main village and Tin Hau Temple (Goddess of the Sea) are situated. [2024.02]

We witnessed the ceremonial procession near Tin Hau Temple. [2024.02]

Each member of the procession had his/her distinct role and carried a specific item. [2024.02]

A member carried one of the deity statues. [2024.02]

The most important item in the procession was a seated statue of Tin Hau, the Goddess of the Sea. [2024.02]

Flag-bearers waiting for the rest of the procession to catch up on the main beach. [2024.02]

A flag-bearer walking on the main beach of Po Toi Island. [2024.02]

The bamboo theatre, the main festival venue, stands in a tranquil river valley. [2024.02]

Red lanterns led visitors into the bamboo theatre. [2024.02]

The ceremonial procession arrived at the bamboo theatre. [2024.02]

Former islanders and visitors watching the procession members to set up the Tin Hau shrine in the bamboo theatre. [2024.02]

Members busy setting up the Tin Hau shrine in the bamboo theatre. [2024.02]

Near the entrance of the bamboo theatre, members were busy preparing vegetarian meals for all participants and visitors. During the festival, only vegetarian food is allowed on the island. [2024.02]

At the souvenir booth, an elderly staff encouraged all visitors to try their ping an (peace and safe) bun. We gratefully accepted. [2024.02]

A paper crafted giant stood near the entrance of the bamboo theatre along with the other small paper dolls. [2024.02]

Before leaving the island, we headed to the Tin Hau Temple for a brief visit. [2024.02]

The main altar at the Tin Hau Temple of Po Toi Island. [2024.02]

The temple forecourt was one of the major venue for the Taoist ceremonies during the Da Jiu Festival. [2024.02]

Lantern from an earlier ceremony outside Tin Hau Temple. [2024.02]

At sunset, we arrived at the dock once again and took the last daytime boat back to Aberdeen. [2024.02]

IN SEARCH OF URBAN SPECTACLE, Lunar New Year (農曆新年), Hong Kong

Red is the warmest colour, especially in Lunar New Year when festive decorations appear all over the city. As the 15th day of the first month has passed, celebrations of this year’s Lunar New Year has come to a closure. From facade lights on commercial towers, art installations, shop windows, fai chun calligraphy to red lanterns, all kinds of New Year decorations are about to come down. The warm and festive atmosphere will soon recede and everything will return to normal. Speaking of festive spectacles, we have made an effort this year to watch the Lunar New Year’s fireworks at the waterfront, something that we haven’t done for ages. After a 4-year dormancy, the decades-long tradition of Lunar New Year Fireworks Display over the Victoria Harbour has resumed this year. As usual, the annual extravaganza started at 8pm on the second day of the Lunar New Year. At a little over an hour before the show, we arrived at Wan Chai waterfront and picked a spot among the crowds. Standing by the balustrade reminded me of my childhood, when watching the Lunar New Year fireworks was a highly anticipated event. At a time when traditions and collective memories are fading fast in Hong Kong, anything that dates back to four decades ago is hard to come by. I can hardly remember the fireworks we saw that day, or the ones in the past. Perhaps we were not too interested in the actual patterns and colours of the fireworks. What we valued the most was at that particular moment, we chose to stand by the waterfront with the rest the crowd to enjoy a urban spectacle that happened once a year.

Every Lunar New Year, red lanterns and other light decorations lit up the front facade of Peninsula Hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui. [2021.02]

Public art related to the zodiac sign of a particular year, which could be one of the twelve animals: rat, ox, tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse, goat, monkey, rooster, dog and pig, would spring up across the city, such as this tiger display in Lee Gardens luxury shopping district. [2022.01]

The atrium of Central’s PMQ is also a popular spot for New Year art installation, such as these inflated rabbits. [2023.01]

This year, PMQ was home to an elegant dragon art installation made of ropes. [2024.02]

Plaza of the former police headquarters Tai Kwun is also a popular spot for festive displays, especially the light show during Lunar New Year. [2024.02]

Shop windows with New Year display would add another level of festive atmosphere to the neighborhood. [2022.01]

Even old shops selling red New Year products would add a festive touch to the concrete streetscape. [2022.01]

Just before Lunar New Year, a few elderly calligraphers would gather at Ladder Street to sell fai chun calligraphy decorations. [2021.01]

The fai chun on display along Ladder Street would dramatically enhance the immediate urban landscape. [2021.01]

To watch this year’s New Year fireworks, we picked a relatively less crowded section of Wan Chai waterfront. [2024.02]

Weather was fine and the air was clear for fireworks display. [2024.02]

It was a pleasure to watch fireworks in person. [2024.02]

It has been four years since the last Lunar New Year fireworks lit up the Victoria Harbour. [2024.02]

Festive colours like red, gold, green and purple are common for New Year fireworks. [2024.02]

Fired from boats, the firework Lulit up the water of Victoria Harbour. [2024.02]

Lunar New Year fireworks over Victoria Harbour. [2024.02]

IN SEARCH OF FESTIVE GOODIES, Lunar New Year (農曆新年), Hong Kong

It is common to host gatherings at home during Lunar New Year. To welcome families and friends, a Goodie Box, or Chuen Hup (全盒) is essential. Usually filled with candies and festive goodies, the tradition of Goodie Box could be traced to the Ming Dynasty (1368 – 1644). Different generations and regions have their own custom on what goes into the box. When we were young, Goodie Boxes in Hong Kong were usually circular lacquerwares, mainly red and black in colour. They were often filled with sugar coated dried fruits, melon seeds, Sugus candies, chocolate coins, fried dumplings, sesame cookies, etc. As lacquerware became more expensive, plastic boxes have become a popular alternative in recent years. To revive the Goodie Box tradition at home, we took on the quest to find a Goodie Box that could better represent the heritage of Hong Kong than the contemporary plastic boxes.

In a fine afternoon of 2021, after picking several calligraphy fai chun (揮春) from “Uncle Tim”, we crossed the Harbour to Kowloon Bay and ventured into an industrial building to look for Yuet Tung China Works (粵東磁廠), Hong Kong’s last stronghold of hand-painted Cantonese porcelain (廣彩). Established in 1928, Yuet Tung was once the largest porcelain maker in the city. In its heyday, the company was home to 300 craftsmen, exporting porcelain tablewares and vases all over the world, including Japan, Europe, and North America. Since 1970’s, sales of Cantonese porcelain significantly declined due to rising concerns on lead and other heavy metals in painted ceramics. Today, only a handful of craftsmen left in the industry, though there seems to be a small revival in recent years as Cantonese porcelain has been successfully promoted as a unique cultural heritage, and some fine pieces have made their way into museums and design shops. Finding porcelain items at Yuet Tung was like treasure hunting in a cramped antique shop. Tableware of different sizes and styles were piled up on shelving from floor to ceiling. We had to be patient, attentive and somewhat lucky in order to encounter the items we desired. At the same time, we needed to stay vigilant to watch where we stepped our foot and rested our elbow in the cramped aisles. At the end, the owner came to assist us on finding a ceramic Goodie Box that suited our purpose.

Choosing snacks to fill up the box is much simpler, but still requires effort and time to pick them up from different shops. Despite all the troubles, getting the Goodie Box ready and filling our counter and fridge with festive food are definitely something that we always look forward to every year.

Traditional porcelain tablewares from Yuet Tung fit perfectly with the old-school radish and water chestnut cakes. [2021.02]

Wandering in Yuet Tung China Works requires patience and caution. [2021.02]

An old craftsman painting traditional illustrations on a cup in Yuet Tung, Kowloon Bay. [2021.02]

Apart from tablewares, vases and table decorations are also available at Yuet Tung. [2021.02]

Many vases at Yuet Tung proved to be too vivid in colours for our taste, but we still greatly appreciate their effort to pass down the skills to younger generation. [2021.02]

We usually get our goodies at some of the traditional shops in Sheung Wan (上環). [2022.01]

On one occasion, we made it all the way to “Luk Kam Kee King of Melon Seeds” (陸金記瓜子大王) in Tsuen Wan (荃灣), who has been around since 1951. [2023.01]

Today, Luk Kam Kee is said to be the city’s only shop that offer locally roasted melon seeds. [2023.01]

For fried snacks like Kok Chai (角仔, Mini Peanut Puffs), Sesame Cookie Balls (笑口棗), Taro Balls (芋蝦), Tea Snacks (茶泡), etc., we often go to Chan Yee Jai (陳意齋) near our home. [2024.02]

For traditional cakes like Radish Cake (蘿蔔糕), Taro Cake (芋頭糕), and Sticky Rice Cake (年糕), we usually purchase from a different source every year, such as farmer’s market and old dessert shop. [2024.02]

This year, we bought from Lan Yuen Chee Koon (蘭苑饎館), a traditional dessert and herbal tea shop in Prince Edward (太子), and Yau Ley (有利), a seafood restaurant operated by former boat people in High Island (糧船灣) of Sai Kung. [2024.02]

Two years ago, we got our radish cake from Ma Po Po (馬寶寶), a farmer’s market and community that ceased to exist due to urban redevelopment of Ma Shi Po Village (馬屎埔). [2021.02]

For New Year’s dinner, traditional roast pork and steam chicken are also quite popular. [2024.02]

Among all roast meat, Roast Whole Suckling Pig (原隻乳豬) is the most popular during Lunar New Year. [2024.02]

Around the time of Lunar New Year, we would also get Cured Sausage or Lap Cheong (臘腸), and Jinhua ham (金華火腿). [2021.02]

With a workshop hidden in an industrial building in Sai Ying Pun (西營盤), the 76-year Kam Cheung Hoo (錦祥號) is one of the last cured sausage manufacturers in Hong Kong. [2021.02]

In the same area as Kam Cheung Ho, the 71-year Wo Hing (和興臘味家) was another popular place near our home to get locally made cured sausages. [2020.12]

Unfortunately, Wo Hing closed down last autumn. [2020.12]

Every time we passed by Dried Seafood Street, we would often stunned by the dramatic wall of cured sausages in Yue Wo Hop Kee (裕和合記). [2022.01]

Apart from sausages, cured ducks and Jinhua ham are popular in Lunar New Year holiday. [2022.01]

IN SEARCH OF AUSPICIOUS BLOSSOMS, Lunar New Year (農曆新年), Hong Kong

Lunar New Year is celebrated by many cultures worldwide. In Hong Kong, Lunar New Year is based on the Chinese lunisolar calendar (陰陽曆), a traditional system that incorporates lunar and solar calendars. In the past decade, we have always celebrated the festival according to traditions that we were brought up with. Apart from tasting different kinds of New Year cakes and goodies, and visiting New Year Fairs around the city, we would always decorate our little home with auspicious flowers such as Gladiolus (劍蘭), Narcissus (水仙), Lily (百合) and Peach blossoms (桃花).  While we select flowers based on appearance and fragrance, many others pick flowers according to their symbolic meanings for prosperity and good fortune. Not only do the flowers enliven the ambience of our apartment, they also reconnect us with our distant childhood memories, in which colourful flowers were essential to the festive setting and atmosphere of people’s homes. Going to a New Year Fair (年宵) before New Year’s Day is a popular activity for many, including us. Every year, we would go to the New Year’s Fair in Victoria Park (維多利亞公園), and Fa Hui Flower Market (花墟) to pick up our New Year flowers. This year, on top of the usual places, we have also made a special trip to Shun Sum Yuen (信芯園農莊), a flower farm in rural Yuen Long (元朗). Seeing the actual flowers in lush green fields made us appreciate the farmers’ hard work, and admire the natural vitality and beauty of the local species, which might appear ordinary when placed alongside other exotic plants in a florist. Picking flowers to brighten our home works perfectly well to prepare our mood for Lunar New Year, and has become an essential ritual that we always look forward to.

After four years of pandemic, the New Year Fair at Victoria Park has finally regain its former extent. [2024.02]

Many visitors go to the New Year Fair to check out auspicious flowers. [2024.02]

Apart from Victoria Park, we would sometimes venture out to Kowloon (九龍) and New Territories (新界) to check out fairs in other neighborhoods. [2019.02]

The New Year Fair in Yuen Long (元朗) is the biggest in the New Territories (新界). [2019.02]

Fa Hui Flower Market (花墟) in Prince Edward (太子) is a pilgrimage site for all anthophiles in Hong Kong. Several city blocks in the area are lined with florists and plant shops, making it the largest flower market in Hong Kong. Every year when Lunar New Year approaches, streets at Fa Hui would be pedestrianized to welcome the shopping crowds. [2021.01]

Amazing Orchids (蘭花) have become one of the most popular New Year flower in recent years. [2024.02]

Orchid of different sizes and colours can be found in Fa Hui. [2024.02]

Many people would spend big money for their favored Orchid arrangement to celebrate Lunar New Year. [2024.02]

Apart from the Orchid, the exotic Nipple Fruit (五代同堂) has become another popular New Year decoration due to its metaphor on multi-generations living under one roof. [2024.02]

This year, we opted for picking our flowers at Shun Sum Yuen, a local farm in rural Yuen Long. [2024.02]

Coming all the way from city centre, the flower farm impressed us right away as if reaching a country retreat. [2024.02]

In midst of the country serenity, just a few lily buds seem to be the perfect ornament to greet us at the farm entrance. [2024.02]

Symbolizing good fortune and prosperity, Chinese knots were used as decorations in the farm. [2024.02]

To cater for visitors who love taking selfies, special decorations were set up in the farm just before Lunar New Year. [2024.02]

One of our main targets was Gladioli, especially for the ones with special or dual colours. [2024.02]

Native to Africa and the Mediterranean, the elegant Gladioli are also popular in this part of the world. In Hong Kong, they symbolize the energy of “raising to a new level”. [2024.02]

From the farm, we got two varieties of Lily (百合), pink and light yellow. [2024.02]

Also from the farm includes four different types of Gladioli (劍蘭). [2024.02]

From the Victoria Park, we got a pot of Narcissus (水仙), which is also a popular choice during Lunar New Year. [2024.02]

Every year, we would also get a few branches of either Japanese or Italian Peach blossoms (桃花). Unlike the Chinese counterparts, the imported varieties are usually lesser in red and straighter in gesture. [2021.02]