We slept briefly after our night visits of Yasaka and Heian Shrine. On New Year’s Day, we checked out our hotel room, early in the morning, stored our luggage at the lockers of Kyoto Station, and took the metro for our Hatsumōde (初詣, First Shrine Visit) at Shimogamo Shrine (下鴨神社). Before our 2pm Haruka Express train to the Kansai Airport, we had the entire morning for our New Year worship. As one of the oldest shrine in the city and a World Heritage site, we longed for a visit to Shimogamo Shrine since our first Kyoto trip. Going for Hatsumōde is perhaps the best moment to visit Shimogamo, experiencing the 6th century complex at its fullest. We approached the shrine from the southern gate of Tadasu-no-Mori Forest (糺の森), a peaceful urban forest park north of the fork of Kamo River. Before reaching the shrine, we made a detour in the park to Kawai-jinja Shrine (河合神社), the shrine for beauty and guardian angel of women. One of the most remarkable features of Kawai-jinja were their unique mirror shaped Kagami-ema, (絵馬, wooden plaques for making wishes).
We continued to head north on the main approach (表参道). Before reaching the second torii gate, we slowed down as we passed by the colourful festival stalls, keeping in mind which stalls to check out after visiting the shrine. Beyond the torii gate, we were captivated by the scent and smoke from the bonfire at the forecourt. It could be the physical warmth, the scent of firewood, or the symbolic purification of our soul, somehow the bonfire had made a great welcoming feature for the crowds. Inside the shrine’s main courtyard, twelve posters were posted up at the central pavilion to guide worshipers which altar to go to according to one’s lunar zodiac animal. After checking the posters, we entered the inner courtyard where crowds of worshipers queued up in front of each altar. We paid respect at our corresponding altars, and returned to the main courtyard to photograph the lovely decorations for the Year of Rabbit. At the east side of the complex stood Mitarai-sha Shrine, along with the sacred stream Mitarashi (御手洗川) and the shallow Mitarashi Ike Pond where dozens of worshipers were soaking their omikuji (御御籤) fortune papers in the water. We watched for a few minutes and went ahead to put our fortune papers into the water. Japanese text began to emerge in a minute or two. Thanks for Goggle Translate, we could get a sense of what the messages were about. Ours didn’t sound as good as we were hoping for. Instead of taking the paper home, we tied them on a rope right by the shrine.
Before leaving Shimogamo, we bought a set of Hama-ya (破魔矢, a lucky charm that looks like a traditional arrow to fight off evil spirits) to take home. Outside the main gate Rōmon (楼門), an even longer queue had formed as more worshipers were arriving for Hatsumōde. We walked by the bonfire one last time and let the smoke to touch our faces. Back to the forest main path, we stopped by two festival stalls for quick snacks. At a vegetable stall, we picked up a few fresh local produces to bring back to Hong Kong. After an eventful night and morning shrine visits, we once again returned to the Kamo River for one last glimpse of the tranquil scenery before returning to Kyoto Station by metro. Once we sat down at our seats on the Hello Kitty HARUKA Express, we couldn’t help but to revisit photos of our eventful trip. From Kinosaki Onsen to temple hopping in the ancient capital, our Kyoto Trip 2022 would certainly stand out as a uniquely festive encounter of Japan.
Apart from crystal clear water and a fine sandy beach, Takeno is a quiet fishing town full of traditional houses. The eerily quiet Takeno during off season offered us a moment of silence, away from the hustling tourist scenes of adjacent Kinosaki Onsen. Without a fixed destination, we spent an hour or so wandering around the empty boat docks and winding alleyways flanked by traditional wooden houses. Throughout the hour, we hardly encountered a single soul, except three curious cats who approached us looking for snacks and a scratching hand. At the end, we reached a dock where roughly two dozen fishing boats were parked. All boats were white, and about 30ft in length. On each boat, glass lamps were suspended from a long rod extending from bow to stern. Working in pitch dark in the icy waters of Japan Sea must be challenging, that at least we could imagine. Full respects to all fishermen, who don’t budge easily in front of choppy waters and unpredictable weather, as well as a gloomy prospect of dwindling fish supplies around the world.
Visiting beach town Takeno in a late December afternoon would ought to be a quiet experience. Most shops and restaurants would be closed but we would pretty much have the beach and lookouts all by ourselves. That was exactly what we got. Away from the lively scenes of Kinosaki Onsen, spending the afternoon at Takeno was our only moment of rural tranquility before heading back to Kyoto. As soon as we stepped out the train station, we were immediately overwhelmed by the town’s tranquility. Streets were empty. Hotels were closed. Most shops near the beach were boarded up for the season. Wandering in a winter Takeno offered us moments of absolute peace, something that is almost impossible to come by in Hong Kong. That day, we had no intent to take a dip in the freezing water, nor do any serious hiking at Nekozaki Peninsula. We made a walking loop that encompassed the lookout on Mt. Jajayama, the lovely Takeno Beach, and the small fishing community at the mouth of Takeno River. On our way to Mt. Jajayama, we stopped by a convenient store for a quick bite, and a seafood souvenir store (海の幸本舗 ますだ) for some dried seaweed to take home, and admired the traditional houses best known for their charred timber sidings.
In the old days, holidaymakers had to first pay a visit to Onsenji (温泉寺) or Hot Spring Temple before dipping into the hot springs of Kinosaki. While the old rule is long gone, we opted to pay respect to the temple before leaving Kinosaki. After a short walk to the west end of the town, we hopped on a cable car of the Kinosaki Ropeway up Mount Daishi (大師山). We could choose to get off the cable car either at the temple stop or the observation deck on the summit. Hoping to get an overview of Kinosaki Onsen and the surroundings, we decided to get off at the summit. At the summit, weather wasn’t too promising gusty winds, wet snow and hail. Fortunately we could take shelter and enjoy some snacking time at the cafe on the summit. Apart from the cafe and lookout that offers a nice overview of the town and river valley beyond, there weren’t a whole lot to see on the summit: Kanizuka (かに塚) – a shrine dedicated to the snow crabs, Jibokannon (慈母観音) – a shrine for the Bodhisattva of Compassion and Mercy, and a platform for Kawarake Throw, a religious ritual of throwing small unglazed pottery dishes towards a target downhill for luck and happiness.
Midway between the summit and the town, Onsenji Temple has been the sacred sanctuary for Kinosaki Onsen since 738 AD, ensuring the town’s prosperity and abundance of the springs. Not only does it serve as the guardian temple of Kinosaki, it also houses the famous 1300 year old statue of the Eleven-Headed Bodhisattva of Compassion and Mercy. The statue is opened to the public for 3 years every 33 years. We just missed our chance as the statue just ended its last opening in 2021. Next time will be 2054! We walked around the temple ground to check out the Tahoto Pagoda (多宝塔), Bell Hall and memorial for Dochi Shonin, the Buddhist saint who, after 1000 days of prayers, founded the hot spring and its healing power in 717 AD. Today, he is recognized as the founder of Kinosaki Onsen.
It was such a surreal experience to dress in yukata and hop from one bathhouse to another. The night belonged to the wabi-sabi of aged old timber houses, the rhythmical shadows of latticed screens, the delightful chatters outside liquor stores, the delicate willow reflections under the stone bridges, the vivid and captivating window displays, the youngsters at the dessert shops, the bliss of relaxation and haptic memory of onsen waters upon our skin. It was such a dreamy night for us that would last long in our memories.
After putting on our yukata (浴衣), white tabi socks (足袋) and wooden getas (下駄), we were all set to go to experience the famous baths of Kinosaki Onsen. With no cameras or backpacks but only towels in the eco bag provided by the ryokan, we already felt light and refreshing even before we touched the hot spring. Since we were staying only for one night, which meant we only had an evening and a morning to try out the bathhouses, we didn’t expect to visit all seven of them. Each bathhouse has its unique scheduled days of closure, and we already knew beforehand that we would miss out Mandara-yu (まんだらの湯). Thanks to the central location of our ryokan, it was only a short walk to any of the seven baths in town. Though walking with the traditional wooden sandals, getas, was not as easy as we thought. It took us a while to get used to walking without slipping our feet out of the getas.
Goshonoyu Onsen (御所の湯)
We carefully walked over to Yunosato Dori (湯の里通り) or Lane of Hot Spring towards Goshonoyu Onsen (御所の湯), a splendid bath complex inspired by the Imperial Palace of Kyoto. Known as the “Water of Beauty”, Goshonoyu Onsen is probably the most popular bathhouse in Kinosaki. Two aspects of Goshonoyu impressed us. First, it was the atmospheric outdoor bathing area made of natural boulders that sits against a backdrop of lush greenery and small waterfalls. Soaking in the hot spring while listening to the falling water and admiring the views of a lush green hillside was a gorgeous experience. Second, we were amazed by the beautiful paintings on the ceiling and wall screens in the foyer, prompting us to sit down in the foyer for a short while after bathing.
Kono-yu Onsen (鴻の湯)
After Goshonoyu, we still had time to go further to the town’s far end for another hot spring visit before dinner. Tucked away at the town’s western end near the Kinosaki Onsen Ropeway, Kono-yu has the oldest bathhouse building in town. Legend has it that about 1,300 years ago, Kono-yu Onsen was discovered when an Oriental White Stork was seen soaking its injured leg in the hot spring. Thus, Kono-yu is known as “the hot spring of the Oriental White Stork.” While we didn’t see any white stork (except statues in the forecourt), we still appreciated the lush green setting of the outdoor bath. Being furthest away from the train station, Kono-yu seemed to be the most tranquil among the seven bathhouses.
Yanagi-yu Onsen (柳湯)
After a satisfying crab meal, we headed out again for one final onsen dip. We chose Yanagi-yu (柳湯) that was right in front of our ryokan. Being the smallest bathhouse in town, Yanagi-yu seemed to be the coziest onsen we visited. Legend has it that water appeared from the base of a willow tree after it was transplanted to Kinosaki from Lake Seiko (West Lake) in China. Or perhaps it was named after the willow trees lined in front of the complex. Anyhow, Yanagi-yu literally means “Bath of the weeping willows.” Soaking in hot spring at a cozy Japanese bathhouse was such a great way to end a long day!
Ichino-Yu Onsen (一の湯)
Resembling a kabuki theatre, Ichino-Yu Onsen is a popular icon of Kinosaki Onsen. In the Edo Period, doctor Shutoku Kagawa identified the onsen as the best in Japan. Henceforth, the onsen was named Ichino-yu, or the Number One Onsen. Ichino-Yu was closed on the day of our arrival, but we managed to visit it in the next morning. Apart from its beautiful building facade, the most remarkable thing about Ichino-yu is the cave-like setting of its bathing area.
Jizo-yu Onsen (地蔵湯)
Inspired by a Japanese lantern, Jizo has a rather interesting outlook. Jizo is a protective bodhisattva that lingers between the real and spiritual worlds. A small shrine dedicated to Jizo stands adjacent to the entrance. We didn’t spend long at the bathhouse, as we wanted to spend more time to visit other areas in Kinosaki. Jizo-yu was the fifth and last hot spring we visited in Kinosaki.
Not many resort towns in Japan have a recorded founding date, but it is well documented that Kinosaki Onsen was found in 720 AD by a traveling monk who discovered a hot spring with healing power. 1300 years later, Kinosaki Onsen is still going strong with seven unique bathhouses, attracting visitors from far and wide. Mainly open-air hot springs in traditional setting, the bathhouses in Kinosaki offer visitors a natural and nostalgic ambience, and a moment of sublime relaxation that makes one to forget about the outside world. 74 ryokan (family run traditional inns) of different sizes and prices welcome visitors in all seasons. But it is between November and March, that Kinosaki Onsen truly enters its peak season. It is the only time when Matsuba-gani (松葉蟹), or snow crab from the Sea of Japan is available as a local delicacy. In fact, sitting at less than 5km from where Maruyama River enters the Sea of Japan, Kinosaki is blessed with an abundant catches of the day. Washing down Matsuba-gani (松葉蟹) and Tajima wagyu (但馬牛) with a bottle of cold local sake is as good as it gets for a fancy meal in this part of Japan. Outside the ryokans and bathhouses, it is the lovely aesthetics of traditional houses, peaceful river setting and over a thousand years of history that separate Kinosaki Onsen from other resort towns,. Our Kinosaki experience can be defined by four fundamental aspects of the town: onsen (温泉), ryokan (旅館), crab (カニ) and beauty (美しさ).