ultramarinus – beyond the sea

Posts tagged “Japan

NEW YEAR’S WORSHIP AT SHIMOGAMO SHRINE (下鴨神社), Kyoto (京都), Japan

We slept briefly after our night visits of Yasaka and Heian Shrine. On New Year’s Day, we checked out our hotel room, early in the morning, stored our luggage at the lockers of Kyoto Station, and took the metro for our Hatsumōde (初詣, First Shrine Visit) at Shimogamo Shrine (下鴨神社). Before our 2pm Haruka Express train to the Kansai Airport, we had the entire morning for our New Year worship. As one of the oldest shrine in the city and a World Heritage site, we longed for a visit to Shimogamo Shrine since our first Kyoto trip. Going for Hatsumōde is perhaps the best moment to visit Shimogamo, experiencing the 6th century complex at its fullest. We approached the shrine from the southern gate of Tadasu-no-Mori Forest (糺の森), a peaceful urban forest park north of the fork of Kamo River. Before reaching the shrine, we made a detour in the park to Kawai-jinja Shrine (河合神社), the shrine for beauty and guardian angel of women. One of the most remarkable features of Kawai-jinja were their unique mirror shaped Kagami-ema, (絵馬, wooden plaques for making wishes).

We continued to head north on the main approach (表参道). Before reaching the second torii gate, we slowed down as we passed by the colourful festival stalls, keeping in mind which stalls to check out after visiting the shrine. Beyond the torii gate, we were captivated by the scent and smoke from the bonfire at the forecourt. It could be the physical warmth, the scent of firewood, or the symbolic purification of our soul, somehow the bonfire had made a great welcoming feature for the crowds. Inside the shrine’s main courtyard, twelve posters were posted up at the central pavilion to guide worshipers which altar to go to according to one’s lunar zodiac animal. After checking the posters, we entered the inner courtyard where crowds of worshipers queued up in front of each altar. We paid respect at our corresponding altars, and returned to the main courtyard to photograph the lovely decorations for the Year of Rabbit. At the east side of the complex stood Mitarai-sha Shrine, along with the sacred stream Mitarashi (御手洗川) and the shallow Mitarashi Ike Pond where dozens of worshipers were soaking their omikuji (御御籤) fortune papers in the water. We watched for a few minutes and went ahead to put our fortune papers into the water. Japanese text began to emerge in a minute or two. Thanks for Goggle Translate, we could get a sense of what the messages were about. Ours didn’t sound as good as we were hoping for. Instead of taking the paper home, we tied them on a rope right by the shrine.

Before leaving Shimogamo, we bought a set of Hama-ya (破魔矢, a lucky charm that looks like a traditional arrow to fight off evil spirits) to take home. Outside the main gate Rōmon (楼門), an even longer queue had formed as more worshipers were arriving for Hatsumōde. We walked by the bonfire one last time and let the smoke to touch our faces. Back to the forest main path, we stopped by two festival stalls for quick snacks. At a vegetable stall, we picked up a few fresh local produces to bring back to Hong Kong. After an eventful night and morning shrine visits, we once again returned to the Kamo River for one last glimpse of the tranquil scenery before returning to Kyoto Station by metro. Once we sat down at our seats on the Hello Kitty HARUKA Express, we couldn’t help but to revisit photos of our eventful trip. From Kinosaki Onsen to temple hopping in the ancient capital, our Kyoto Trip 2022 would certainly stand out as a uniquely festive encounter of Japan.

The walk in Tadasu-no-Mori Forest towards Shimogamo Shrine was a pleasant journey. [2023.01.01]
We stopped by Kawai-jinja Shrine before heading over to Shimogamo Shrine. [2023.01.01]
The atmosphere at Kawai-jinja Shrine was quite relaxing. We were surprised to see so many men at the shrine dedicated to beauty. [2023.01.01]
One of the most remarkable features at Kawai-jinja Shrine was the mirror shaped Kagami-ema. [2023.01.01]
Parts of the inner shrine were closed to the public. [2023.01.01]
Suddenly out of nowhere, several staff dressed in traditional costumes passed right in front of us. [2023.01.01]
We walked past the festival stalls on our way to the main shrine. [2023.01.01]
Reaching the large torii gate signified our arrival at Shimogamo Shrine. [2023.01.01]
Special New Year events would take place in the first week of January. [2023.01.01]
Beyond the torii, we reached the bonfire at the forecourt. [2023.01.01]
We finally arrived at the main Rōmon gate (楼門). [2023.01.01]
Inside the main courtyard, the central pavilion had put up a series of information according to zodiac animals for guiding worshipers to the correct altar. [2023.01.01]
The inner court of small altars was packed with visitors. [2023.01.01]
We found the designated altars of our zodiac animals and performed a simple rituals and made wishes. [2023.01.01]
Some of the shrines were closed off from the public. [2023.01.01]
A large wooden panel with a beautiful painting of a rabbit to celebrate the Year of the Rabbit. [2023.01.01]
More wooden panels related to the Year of Rabbit could be found inside the inner courtyard. [2023.01.01]
Literally translated as “drum bridge” Taikobashi Bridge near Mitarashi Ike Pond. [2023.01.01]
We picked up an omikuji from the Mitarai-sha Shrine and soaked the fortune paper into the water of Mitarashi. [2023.01.01]
Just a minute of two, Japanese text emerged on our wet fortune papers. [2023.01.01]
We tied our omikuji on a rope right by the shrine. [2023.01.01]
Before leaving the complex, we bought a set of Hama-ya (a decorative arrow allegedly possessing the power to destroy evil) to bring home. [2023.01.01]
Outside the main gate Rōmon, a long queue of visitors were entering the shrine. [2023.01.01]
We bought some snacks and fresh local produces from the festival stalls. [2023.01.01]
It was fun to go from one stall to another. [2023.01.01]
More lucky charms and fortune papers outside the shrine. [2023.01.01]
Lovely snacks are compulsory during a festival fair. [2023.01.01]
A short walk along Kamo River wrapped up our Kyoto trip before we headed to the airport. [2023.01.01]

FISHING COMMUNITY OF TAKENO (竹野), Hyōgo (兵庫), Japan

Apart from crystal clear water and a fine sandy beach, Takeno is a quiet fishing town full of traditional houses. The eerily quiet Takeno during off season offered us a moment of silence, away from the hustling tourist scenes of adjacent Kinosaki Onsen. Without a fixed destination, we spent an hour or so wandering around the empty boat docks and winding alleyways flanked by traditional wooden houses. Throughout the hour, we hardly encountered a single soul, except three curious cats who approached us looking for snacks and a scratching hand. At the end, we reached a dock where roughly two dozen fishing boats were parked. All boats were white, and about 30ft in length. On each boat, glass lamps were suspended from a long rod extending from bow to stern. Working in pitch dark in the icy waters of Japan Sea must be challenging, that at least we could imagine. Full respects to all fishermen, who don’t budge easily in front of choppy waters and unpredictable weather, as well as a gloomy prospect of dwindling fish supplies around the world.

Weather wasn’t perfect, but at least it was pleasant for us to stroll along the waterfront of the fishing town. [2022.12.29]
We felt that it must be an off day for the fishermen in town. [2022.12.29]
The main marina sits quietly against a backdrop of lush green hills. [2022.12.29]
Ducks and other water birds swam leisurely at the river mouth. [2022.12.29]
We passed by a handful of beautiful timber houses that once dotted all over Takeno. [2022.12.29]
Perfect reflections of the town occasionally appear when the water is calm. We didn’t have the luck. [2022.12.29]
We walked along the waterfront for a bit until a black cat caught our attention. We decided to turn into the winding alleys instead. [2022.12.29]
We wandered in the narrow lanes of the fishing town all by ourselves. [2022.12.29]
We soon arrived at the main dock of fishing boats. [2022.12.29]
At the dock, the first thing that caught our eyes were the suspended glass lamps on each boat. [2022.12.29]
The whole town was eerily quiet and static. [2022.12.29]
Except the three cats that we encountered during our walk. [2022.12.29]
After spending some time at the fishing community, we took our time to walk back to the train station heading back to Kinosaki Onsen and later Kyoto. [2022.12.29]

SEASIDE RESORT OF TAKENO (竹野), Hyōgo (兵庫), Japan

Visiting beach town Takeno in a late December afternoon would ought to be a quiet experience. Most shops and restaurants would be closed but we would pretty much have the beach and lookouts all by ourselves. That was exactly what we got. Away from the lively scenes of Kinosaki Onsen, spending the afternoon at Takeno was our only moment of rural tranquility before heading back to Kyoto. As soon as we stepped out the train station, we were immediately overwhelmed by the town’s tranquility. Streets were empty. Hotels were closed. Most shops near the beach were boarded up for the season. Wandering in a winter Takeno offered us moments of absolute peace, something that is almost impossible to come by in Hong Kong. That day, we had no intent to take a dip in the freezing water, nor do any serious hiking at Nekozaki Peninsula. We made a walking loop that encompassed the lookout on Mt. Jajayama, the lovely Takeno Beach, and the small fishing community at the mouth of Takeno River. On our way to Mt. Jajayama, we stopped by a convenient store for a quick bite, and a seafood souvenir store (海の幸本舗 ますだ) for some dried seaweed to take home, and admired the traditional houses best known for their charred timber sidings.

Just ten minutes of train ride brought us from the vibrant tourist scenes of Kinosaki Onsen to the empty station of Takeno. [2022.12.29]
A poster at the train station reminded visitors that Takeno Beach is one of the hundred best beaches in the country. [2022.12.29]
Hoping for a decent seafood lunch at seafood souvenir store (海の幸本舗 ますだ), we soon found out that the restaurant was closed for the season. Fortunately we could still pick up some local seaweed and snacks from the delightful store. [2022.12.29]
A 15-minutes walk brought us to the lookout of Mt. Jajayama (ジャジャ山公園). Nekozaki Peninsula once served as a natural shelter for Kitamaebune (北前船) or “northern-bound” ships, Takeno flourished as a port city during the Edo period. [2022.12.29]
The lookout on Mt. Jajayama offered us an overview of beach and townscape of Takeno. From a distance, the scenery of Nekozaki Peninsula and Takeno Beach loosely reminded us of the beach at Urca right beneath the iconic Pao de Acucar in Rio de Janeiro. [2022.12.29]
At the end of the beach, Oku Kinosaki Seaside Hotel marks the entrance to Nekozaki Peninsula. [2022.12.29]
The traditional houses in Takeno is well known for their charred timber sidings. [2022.12.29]
In a winter afternoon, we pretty much had Takeno Beach all by ourselves. [2022.12.29]
Chikuto Ryokan (竹涛) immediately caught our eyes when we arrived at the beach. Perched atop the sand right by the sea, we could imagine ourselves staying up all night at the inn listening to the thundering waves. [2022.12.29]
Beyond the Sea of Japan, Vladivostok of Russia on the other side must be a completely distinct world from sleepy Takeno. [2022.12.29]
A plaque at the beach reminds visitors the history of Kitamaebune (北前船) or “northern-bound ships”, a popular shipping route during the Edo period that passed Takeno between Osaka and Hokkaido. [2022.12.29]
Many shops and guesthouses along the beach were closed for the season. [2022.12.29]
Traditional charred timber houses ould be found throughout Takeno. [2022.12.29]
Throughout the years, some houses have obviously gone through different alterations and repairs. [2022.12.29]
Many houses near the beach were boarded up during winter. [2022.12.29]
Shops sailing fishing equipment and swimming gear also remained shut during winter. [2022.12.29]

MOUNT DAISHI (大師山) & ONSENJI (温泉寺), Kinosaki Onsen (城崎温泉), Hyōgo (兵庫), Japan

In the old days, holidaymakers had to first pay a visit to Onsenji (温泉寺) or Hot Spring Temple before dipping into the hot springs of Kinosaki. While the old rule is long gone, we opted to pay respect to the temple before leaving Kinosaki. After a short walk to the west end of the town, we hopped on a cable car of the Kinosaki Ropeway up Mount Daishi (大師山). We could choose to get off the cable car either at the temple stop or the observation deck on the summit. Hoping to get an overview of Kinosaki Onsen and the surroundings, we decided to get off at the summit. At the summit, weather wasn’t too promising gusty winds, wet snow and hail. Fortunately we could take shelter and enjoy some snacking time at the cafe on the summit. Apart from the cafe and lookout that offers a nice overview of the town and river valley beyond, there weren’t a whole lot to see on the summit: Kanizuka (かに塚) – a shrine dedicated to the snow crabs, Jibokannon (慈母観音) – a shrine for the Bodhisattva of Compassion and Mercy, and a platform for Kawarake Throw, a religious ritual of throwing small unglazed pottery dishes towards a target downhill for luck and happiness.

Midway between the summit and the town, Onsenji Temple has been the sacred sanctuary for Kinosaki Onsen since 738 AD, ensuring the town’s prosperity and abundance of the springs. Not only does it serve as the guardian temple of Kinosaki, it also houses the famous 1300 year old statue of the Eleven-Headed Bodhisattva of Compassion and Mercy. The statue is opened to the public for 3 years every 33 years. We just missed our chance as the statue just ended its last opening in 2021. Next time will be 2054! We walked around the temple ground to check out the Tahoto Pagoda (多宝塔), Bell Hall and memorial for Dochi Shonin, the Buddhist saint who, after 1000 days of prayers, founded the hot spring and its healing power in 717 AD. Today, he is recognized as the founder of Kinosaki Onsen.

A short cable car ride on Kinosaki Ropeway took us to the summit of Mount Daishi. [2022.12.29]
On Mount Daishi, we stopped by the cafe at the observation deck to warm ourselves with some food and hot coffee. [2022.12.29]
We waited a bit on the summit until the hail and gust gradually faded. [2022.12.29]
Throwing a kawarake to hit the target downhill would bring good luck to the visitor. [2022.12.29]
The summit is home to a number of shrines, including a shrine for Jibokannon. [2022.12.29]
Standing halfway on Mount Daishi is the thousand-year-old Onsenji, the guardian temple of Kinosaki Onsen. [2022.12.29]
Not many tourists were around at the temple, except a girl amusing herself with the snow right by the ropeway station. [2022.12.29]
The ropeway station is right adjacent to the temple ground. [2022.12.29]
The aged wooden plaque of Onsenji. [2022.12.29]
The main hall of Onsenji Temple remained closed. [2022.12.29]
Tall wooden pole with Buddhist inscription stood adjacent to the main hall. [2022.12.29]
Small stone stupas clustered behind the main hall of Onsenji. [2022.12.29]
Behind the main hall, a flight of steps led us to Tahoto Pagoda (多宝塔) or Treasure Pagoda. [2022.12.29]
Beautiful timber details of Tahoto Pagoda. [2022.12.29]
Memorial stele dedicated to Dochi Shonin, the founder of Kinosaki Onsen 1300 years ago. [2022.12.29]
All visitors can give it a try to ring the bronze bell. [2022.12.29]
After a short temple visit, we returned to the ropeway station to catch a descending cable car. [2022.12.29]
After a few packed ones, we finally made it into a cable car going downhill, leaving behind the sacred Onsenji Temple and the peaceful Mount Daishi. [2022.12.29]

A DREAMY NIGHT, Kinosaki Onsen (城崎温泉), Hyōgo (兵庫), Japan

It was such a surreal experience to dress in yukata and hop from one bathhouse to another. The night belonged to the wabi-sabi of aged old timber houses, the rhythmical shadows of latticed screens, the delightful chatters outside liquor stores, the delicate willow reflections under the stone bridges, the vivid and captivating window displays, the youngsters at the dessert shops, the bliss of relaxation and haptic memory of onsen waters upon our skin. It was such a dreamy night for us that would last long in our memories.

After dinner, night had fallen upon the picturesque Kinosaki Onsen. [2022.12.28]
We decided to stroll along the waterway towards Yunosato Dori, the main street in town. [2022.12.28]
Lingering on the streets at night in Kinosaki Onsen was a dreamy experience. [2022.12.28]
The main streets are lined with old ryokans and shops. [2022.12.28]
The silent night is the perfect time to absorb the traditional ambience of Kinosaki Onsen.
Youngsters could always find themselves opportunities to amuse themselves, especially in a resort town where small game shops remain open beyond dinner time. [2022.12.28]
But it was the dessert shop that captured the most attention at night. [2022.12.28]
Youngsters in their traditional yukatas wandered the streets of Kinosaki Onsen. [2022.12.28]
It would be a choice between coffee and whiskey at Ayame, a traditional bar on Yunosato Dori. [2022.12.28]
The orchid was a stunning display at the main street, especially during the winter season. [2022.12.28]
Even a post box looked rather lovely under the yellow lights of Kinosaki Onsen. [2022.12.28]
Window shopping in Kinosaki Onsen at night. [2022.12.28]
“Hibuse Kabe,” or “Fire Prevention Wall” is a unique structure to commemorate the 1925 North Tajima Earthquake and Fire. [2022.12.28]
Skewer restaurants stayed open till late at night. [2022.12.28]
But it was the liquor stores that saw continuous influx of customers at night. [2022.12.28]
Shisho Shrine (四所神社) is said to be founded in 708 AD. [2022.12.28]
Mihashira Shrine (三柱神社) stays out of the spotlight with its discreet location hidden from the street. [2022.12.28]
We stumbled upon Mihashira Shrine unexpectedly, and immediately fell in love with its tranquil setting and lovely shadows. [2022.12.28]
A tender night of light and shadows. [2022.12.28]
Back to the ryokan after a relaxing night. [2022.12.28]

THE SEVEN BATHS, Kinosaki Onsen (城崎温泉), Hyōgo (兵庫), Japan

After putting on our yukata (浴衣), white tabi socks (足袋) and wooden getas (下駄), we were all set to go to experience the famous baths of Kinosaki Onsen. With no cameras or backpacks but only towels in the eco bag provided by the ryokan, we already felt light and refreshing even before we touched the hot spring. Since we were staying only for one night, which meant we only had an evening and a morning to try out the bathhouses, we didn’t expect to visit all seven of them. Each bathhouse has its unique scheduled days of closure, and we already knew beforehand that we would miss out Mandara-yu (まんだらの湯). Thanks to the central location of our ryokan, it was only a short walk to any of the seven baths in town. Though walking with the traditional wooden sandals, getas, was not as easy as we thought. It took us a while to get used to walking without slipping our feet out of the getas.

Goshonoyu Onsen (御所の湯)

We carefully walked over to Yunosato Dori (湯の里通り) or Lane of Hot Spring towards Goshonoyu Onsen (御所の湯), a splendid bath complex inspired by the Imperial Palace of Kyoto. Known as the “Water of Beauty”, Goshonoyu Onsen is probably the most popular bathhouse in Kinosaki. Two aspects of Goshonoyu impressed us. First, it was the atmospheric outdoor bathing area made of natural boulders that sits against a backdrop of lush greenery and small waterfalls. Soaking in the hot spring while listening to the falling water and admiring the views of a lush green hillside was a gorgeous experience. Second, we were amazed by the beautiful paintings on the ceiling and wall screens in the foyer, prompting us to sit down in the foyer for a short while after bathing.

The architecture of Goshonoyu Onsen took inspirations from the Imperial Palace of Kyoto. [2022.12.28]
Due to its elegant architecture and waterfall backdrop at the bathing area, Goshonoyu Onsen is the most popular bathhouse in Kinosaki Onsen. [2022.12.28]
A pair of lanterns and a tranquil reflective pool mark the entrance of the bathhouse. [2022.12.28]
Beyond the lattice screens lies the beautiful foyer and waiting area. [2022.12.28]
The ceiling of the foyer is decorated with paintings of Japanese flowers. [2022.12.28]
Traditional wall screens are also a treat to the eye at the foyer. [2022.12.28]

Kono-yu Onsen (鴻の湯)

After Goshonoyu, we still had time to go further to the town’s far end for another hot spring visit before dinner. Tucked away at the town’s western end near the Kinosaki Onsen Ropeway, Kono-yu has the oldest bathhouse building in town. Legend has it that about 1,300 years ago, Kono-yu Onsen was discovered when an Oriental White Stork was seen soaking its injured leg in the hot spring. Thus, Kono-yu is known as “the hot spring of the Oriental White Stork.” While we didn’t see any white stork (except statues in the forecourt), we still appreciated the lush green setting of the outdoor bath. Being furthest away from the train station, Kono-yu seemed to be the most tranquil among the seven bathhouses.

With the gable roofs, our first impression on Kono-yu was like approaching a mountain chalet in the Alps. [2022.12.28]
Legend has it that Kono-yu was found by a Oriental White Stork, who came to soak its injured leg in the hot spring over 1,300 years ago. [2022.12.28]
Similar to other bathhouses, a pair of traditional lanterns marked with the onsen name were placed at the entrance. [2022.12.28]

Yanagi-yu Onsen (柳湯)

After a satisfying crab meal, we headed out again for one final onsen dip. We chose Yanagi-yu (柳湯) that was right in front of our ryokan. Being the smallest bathhouse in town, Yanagi-yu seemed to be the coziest onsen we visited. Legend has it that water appeared from the base of a willow tree after it was transplanted to Kinosaki from Lake Seiko (West Lake) in China. Or perhaps it was named after the willow trees lined in front of the complex. Anyhow, Yanagi-yu literally means “Bath of the weeping willows.” Soaking in hot spring at a cozy Japanese bathhouse was such a great way to end a long day!

The cozy Yanagi-yu faces Kinosaki’s main water channel lined with willow trees. [2022.12.28]
A beautiful wooden plaque with the calligraphy of Yanagi-yu (柳湯) marks the entrance. [2022.12.28]
Again we were greeted by a pair of traditional lantern at the front door. [2022.12.28]
At the side of complex, an onsen foot bath was also available for visitors. [2022.12.28]

Ichino-Yu Onsen (一の湯)

Resembling a kabuki theatre, Ichino-Yu Onsen is a popular icon of Kinosaki Onsen. In the Edo Period, doctor Shutoku Kagawa identified the onsen as the best in Japan. Henceforth, the onsen was named Ichino-yu, or the Number One Onsen. Ichino-Yu was closed on the day of our arrival, but we managed to visit it in the next morning. Apart from its beautiful building facade, the most remarkable thing about Ichino-yu is the cave-like setting of its bathing area.

Despite it wasn’t closed, the Ichino-Yu Onsen is still decorated with floodlights in the evening. [2022.12.28]
It was until the next morning that we were able to try out the cave-like bathing area of Ichino-Yu Onsen. [2022.12.29]

Jizo-yu Onsen (地蔵湯)

Inspired by a Japanese lantern, Jizo has a rather interesting outlook. Jizo is a protective bodhisattva that lingers between the real and spiritual worlds. A small shrine dedicated to Jizo stands adjacent to the entrance. We didn’t spend long at the bathhouse, as we wanted to spend more time to visit other areas in Kinosaki. Jizo-yu was the fifth and last hot spring we visited in Kinosaki.

The hexagonal glazing was said to be inspired by volcanic rock formations nearby. [2022.12.29]

A THOUSAND-YEAR-OLD RESORT, Kinosaki Onsen (城崎温泉), Hyōgo (兵庫), Japan

Not many resort towns in Japan have a recorded founding date, but it is well documented that Kinosaki Onsen was found in 720 AD by a traveling monk who discovered a hot spring with healing power. 1300 years later, Kinosaki Onsen is still going strong with seven unique bathhouses, attracting visitors from far and wide. Mainly open-air hot springs in traditional setting, the bathhouses in Kinosaki offer visitors a natural and nostalgic ambience, and a moment of sublime relaxation that makes one to forget about the outside world. 74 ryokan (family run traditional inns) of different sizes and prices welcome visitors in all seasons. But it is between November and March, that Kinosaki Onsen truly enters its peak season. It is the only time when Matsuba-gani (松葉蟹), or snow crab from the Sea of Japan is available as a local delicacy. In fact, sitting at less than 5km from where Maruyama River enters the Sea of Japan, Kinosaki is blessed with an abundant catches of the day. Washing down Matsuba-gani (松葉蟹) and Tajima wagyu (但馬牛) with a bottle of cold local sake is as good as it gets for a fancy meal in this part of Japan. Outside the ryokans and bathhouses, it is the lovely aesthetics of traditional houses, peaceful river setting and over a thousand years of history that separate Kinosaki Onsen from other resort towns,. Our Kinosaki experience can be defined by four fundamental aspects of the town: onsen (温泉), ryokan (旅館), crab (カニ) and beauty (美しさ).

ONSEN (温泉)

A humble hot spring drinking fountain welcomes every visitor outside Kinosaki Onsen train station. [2022.12.28]
Other than bathing, hot spring water is often used for boiling eggs in Japan. [2022.12.28]
The constant hot steam and bubbling noise drew us to Kinosaki Onsen Motoyu (城崎温泉元湯) just off . Literally means “the source of Kinosaki hot spring”, the famous water emerges from a rock that pops out from the ground. [2022.12.29]
Adjacent to Kinosaki Onsen Motoyu, Chaya cafe offers onsen eggs, gelato, and local dessert snacks. [2022.12.28]

KANI (カニ)

Perched on top of Mt. Daishi (大師山) above Kinosaki Onsen, a small shrine Kanizuka (かに塚) dedicates to the local delicacy – Matsuba-gani snow crab (松葉蟹) stands alongside with a Bodhisattva statue and a Buddhist temple. [2022.12.29]
Walking down the main street of Kinosaki Onsen, there should be no question on what is the celebrity of the winter season: Matsuba-gani (松葉蟹). [2022.12.28]
The crab season of 2022 began on the 6th of November. [2022.12.28]
At our ryokan, we had a chance to have the seasonal snow crab for dinner. [2022.12.28]

RYOKAN (旅館)

Outside the train station, a large rack displays rows of geta (下駄) or wooden sandals from the different ryokans in Kinosaki Onsen. As a popular onsen resort, the ryokan (traditional Japanese inns) in Kinosaki Onsen form an integral part of the local community for centuries. [2022.12.29]
Upscale Mikiya Ryokan (三木屋) was the favorite place to stay for famous writer Naoya Shiga (志賀直哉), who penned his well known work At Cape Kinosaki at the ryokan. [2022.12.28]
Ten days before our departure, we booked the last ryokan room available for our intended date on a booking website. Not sure if it was a cancelled room from another traveler, but we were delighted to stay at Tsukimotoya Ryokan for the night and two meals. [2022.12.28]
After check in at the ryokan, a staff brought us our yukata, towels and socks for going out to the seven bathhouses. We were surprised to find out that the yukata did keep us warm while walking in the resort town at just a few degrees above freezing. [2022.12.28]

BEAUTY (美しさ)

Kinosaki Onsen has been a famous spa resort for over a millennia. [2022.12.29]
While the evening belongs to bathhouse hoping, the morning is the best time to take in the tranquil beauty of Kinosaki Onsen. [2022.12.29]
Between bathing and dining, checking out the small shops on the main streets was also a highlight of a Kinosaki visit. [2022.12.28]
Having a cup of coffee at a local cafe while watching people in traditional yukata walk by was a great way to chill out in Kinosaki Onsen. [2022.12.29]