ultramarinus – beyond the sea

DAY 7 – YUNOMINE ONSEN, Kumano Kodo (2 of 4), Japan

Since 1800 years ago, Yunomine has always been a popular onsen village in the Kii Mountains.  For centuries, its healing water offers a great reward for pilgrims after their visit to the Hongu Taisha.  Today, this sleepy onsen village has the oldest hotspring in Japan.  Situated at a lush green valley, dozens of timber houses, traditional ryokans and cosy bed and breakfasts cluster along a mountain stream.  At the village centre across the bridge from Ryokan Adumaya stands a public bathhouse where visitors buy admission ticket from a vending machine.1The only vehicle road passed through the centre of sleepy Yunomine.2Traditional ryokans in Yunomine offer visitors a taste of vintage Japan.3A stair leads down to the level of the stream where the fenced pool of hotspring becomes the official cooking spot with water from the hot spring. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA“Onsen tamago”,eggs slowly boiled in the onsen hot spring, is a popular local dish. Other than eggs, the locals also love to boil yams in the 93 degree onsen water. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAcross the stream from the egg boiling pool stands a hotspring well and pump distributing onsen water to the surrounding houses. 6Yunomine and its historical Tsuboyu Bath is famous as the healing spot for Hangan Oguri, a clan leader of Oguri Castle 600 years ago.  In the background stands the Toko-ji Temple, the main temple in Yunomine.7In front of Toko-ji Temple stands the main grocery store. 8The Toko-ji Temple is located beside the public bathhouse. DSC_0610The shrine at Toko-ji Temple. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe entrance of the public bath house of Yunomine 10Bags of uncooked eggs are prepared for visitors to make “onsen tamago” slowly cooking in the hot spring. 11The centuries old Tsuboyu Bath is a tiny bath house by the stream.  Inside it is small and dark, not ideal for people with speluncaphobia.

12From a distance the Tsuboyu Bath seems like a tiny wooden shed that seems vulnerable to flooding.  13These stone steles situate high on the slope by the main road accessible only via a narrow flight of stair.14Bicycle is one of the best means to tour around the Yunomine area. 15The stone wall that separates the open air onsen at Ryokan Adumaya from the main road. 16Before we left Yunomine Onsen, we had a leisure stroll around Yunomine.  After the walk, we decided to return to Hongu Taisha for a second visit.  After a short wait at the only bus stop in the village, we carried our backpacks up the bus heading towards Hongu Taisha.

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Read other posts on 2015 Kansai…
Day 1.0 – Kansai Japan 2015
Day 1.1 – Hanami, Mount Yoshino 
Day 1.2 – Feast under the Shades of Sakura, Mount Yoshiko
Day 2 – A Day in Kobe
Day 3 – A Day in Central Osaka
Day 4 – Tanabe – Prelude of the Kumano Kodo
Day 5.1 – Takijiri to Takahara, Kumano Kodo
Day 5.2 – Takahara to Tsugizakura , Kumano Kodo
Day 5.3 – Minshuku Tsugizakura, Kumano Kodo
Day 6.1 – Tsugizakura to Mikoshi-Toge Pass, Kumano Kodo
Day 6.2 – Mikoshi-Toge Pass to Hongu Taisha, Kumano Kodo
Day 6.3 – Kumano Hongu Taisha to Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.1 – Ryokan Adumaya, Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.2 – Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.3 – Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.4 – Wataze Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 8.1 – Kumano Nachi Taisha, Kumano Kodo
Day 8.2 – Kii Katsuura, Kumano Kodo
Day 9 – Church of Light, Osaka

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