DAY 5 – MINSHUKU TSUGIZAKURA, Kumano Kodo (熊野古道) 3 of 3, Japan

Before nightfall we finally reached Tsugizakura, a small, peaceful village overlooking the Kii Mountains. We were grateful to be welcomed by the Yuba family of Minshuku Tsugizakura. Mr. Yuba, the owner of the bed and breakfast, was a professional chef. Now he and his family take care of the three-room minshuku, offering hikers of the Kumano Kodo a comfortable place to stay the night and delicious meals to fill the belly after a long day’s walk. After 10 hours of walking, we were so grateful to soak in a traditional hot bath at the minshuku and filled up our belly with fantastic homemade kaiseki dinner. Tsugizakura is a peaceful village famous for its traditional oji (shrine) and Nonaka-no-Shimizu spring (renowned for its spring water) We were greeted with welcoming snacks: red bean cake with green tea powder and an apple. After a traditional Japanese hot bath, Mr. Yuba prepared us a delicious kaiseki dinner made up of many small dishes. Every dish was prepared with a combination of local and seasonal ingredients. What they were exactly, we know not but they were delicious.

Crab meat on deep fried tofu ball. Marinated chicken (left) and vegetable in curry sauce (right). The grilled kebabs were cooked on the table. Each of us had a little pot in front of us. We didn’t know what’s inside but Mrs Yuba told us not to open to lid until a later time. Flavored steam rice. By the time we opened the pot the rice was just ready. Orange was in season in the area. The sweetened red beans gave a Japanese touch to the orange sorbet desert. The next morning, the Yuba family prepared another splendid meal for us. Morning sunlight from the mountains shone into the dining room where breakfast was served. Lunchboxes prepared by Minshuku Tsugizakura which we would carry along. Farewell to the Yuba family. Thanks for your hospitality. On the slope above Tsugizakura, we continued our Kumano Kodo journey heading northeast towards Hongu Taisha.