Kumano Kodo

Day 8 – KII KATSUURA, Kumano Kodo (熊野古道) 2 of 2, Japan

Before our train journey back to Osaka, we spent some time wandering around Kii Katsuura (紀伊勝浦), a fishing town about 25-minute bus ride from Nachisan. From the train/bus station, we walked through a covered arcade to reach the waterfront market near the main pier. Most shops in the arcade were closed except several souvenir shops selling local souvenir such as the Nachi black candies, binchotan-zumi (a traditional Japanese charcoal) and Kii mandarins. The fishing market was closed in the afternoon. Attracted by the catch-of-the-day live display, we stopped by a local seafood store/eatery and had a delightful seafood lunch which included grilled abalone and assorted local shellfishes, miso soup with lobster meat and squid sashimi. After a satisfying meal, we strolled further out to the pier and had some relaxing moments under the afternoon sun and the refreshing sea breeze. Such pleasant afternoon provided us a perfect closure to our Kumano Kodo experience in the Kii peninsula of the Wakayama Prefecture.

The town seemed sleepy as many stores at the waterfront market were closed in the afternoon. But in early morning, the market would present a completely different scene when fishing boats returned to the pier with loads of catches. There were some souvenir shops opened for business near the bus/train station, in the covered shopping arcade that connected the waterfront market with the train station.

There were many restaurants in town but we found this simple corner seafood shop quite interesting. It is a fishmonger doubled as a seafood restaurant.

Display of catches-of-the-day at the storefront attracted much attention of passersby.

Sun-drying squids at the storefront.

Inside the store at the far end, there was a seafood eatery with a few tables. We were given a Japanese menu and we ordered a few tapas-like dishes such as this grilled abalone topped with butter sauce.

Grilled assorted shellfishes.

Along the shore, fishermen were drying seaweed under the sun, adding a fresh and aromatic scent to the sea breeze.

Each day, dozens of tour boats would venture out into the sea for sightseeing, as well as dolphin and whale watching.

A group of eagles gathered at the pier probably looking for some “quick snacks” at the coastal water.

We walked out to the furthest pier and could see the Kii Mountain Range behind the town of Kii Katsuura.

There are a number of mega resort hotels along the shore of Kii Katsuura. Some of which can only be accessed by boat. Parking at the front of this huge resort hotel was a passenger boat which transported hotel guests between the hotel and the main pier. Every time when the passenger boat arrived at the hotel, music would be played which could be heard miles away.

Many locals were trying their luck along the shore.

Fishing boats near the main pier.

Even the floor tiles at the pier reminded us that fishing was the dominating industry in the region.

It was a scenic train ride along the coastline of the Kii Peninsula enroute to Osaka. The whole trip took about 3 hours and 40 minutes.

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Read other posts on 2015 Kansai…
Day 1.0 – Kansai Japan 2015
Day 1.1 – Hanami, Mount Yoshino
Day 1.2 – Feast under the Shades of Sakura, Mount Yoshiko
Day 2 – A Day in Kobe
Day 3 – A Day in Central Osaka
Day 4 – Tanabe – Prelude of the Kumano Kodo
Day 5.1 – Takijiri to Takahara, Kumano Kodo
Day 5.2 – Takahara to Tsugizakura , Kumano Kodo
Day 5.3 – Minshuku Tsugizakura, Kumano Kodo
Day 6.1 – Tsugizakura to Mikoshi-Toge Pass, Kumano Kodo
Day 6.2 – Mikoshi-Toge Pass to Hongu Taisha, Kumano Kodo
Day 6.3 – Kumano Hongu Taisha to Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.1 – Ryokan Adumaya, Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.2 – Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.3 – Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.4 – Wataze Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 8.1 – Kumano Nachi Taisha, Kumano Kodo
Day 8.2 – Kii Katsuura, Kumano Kodo
Day 9 – Church of Light, Osaka

September 20, 2015 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kansai 2015, Kumano Kodo | Tags: 紀伊勝浦, 紀伊山地, fishing, food, Japan, katsuura, Kii, kodo, Kumano, nachi, seafood, Wakayama | Leave a comment

Day 8 – KUMANO NACHI TAISHA, Kumano Kodo (熊野古道) 1 of 2, Japan

After we dropped off our bags at the train station of Kii Katsuura, we took a local bus up to Nachisan, where we would visit the famous Kumano Nachi Taisha, Seiganto-ji Temple and Nachi Waterfall. We arrived at Daimon-zaka, part of the old cobblestone pilgrim steps that leads up to the sacred Kumano Nachi Taisha, just before noontime. Flanked by old Japanese cedar trees and bamboo groves, the atmospheric Daimon-zaka was the last stretch of the old Kumano Kodo we hiked. We walked on the Daimon-zaka for about half an hour before reaching the main uphill path that leads up to the temple site.

After some more steps and uphill paths, we found ourselves reaching the red torii gate of Kumano Nachi Taisha. The temple ground was packed with tourists, both local and foreign, all were drawn to here by the orange coloured shrine structures, and the iconic three-storey pagoda. The pagoda is part of Seiganto-ji Temple, a Buddhist temple that shares the same site of Kumano Nachi Taisha for centuries. On the way walking to the pagoda, we passed by the most popular vista of Nachi Taisha: the orange pagoda in front of Nachi Waterfall (Nachi no Taki), the tallest waterfall in Japan at 133m. From the pagoda, it was another short hike to the base of the waterfall, where a small shrine and a viewing platform stood.

We then took a bus back to Kii Katsuura.

Centuries old Japanese cedar lined up along the path of Daimon-zaka.

Along Daimon-zaka, small shrines and bamboo groves added a layer of mystical atmosphere.

The stones of Daimon-zaka had witnessed centuries of pilgrims in and out of Nachisan.

The orange torii of Nachi Taisha.

The shrine structure in the complex of Nachi Taisha.

A main structure in the taisha complex.

Little device for worshipers to make their wishes.

Small wooden plagues for worshipers to write down their wishes.

Seiganto-ji Temple, the Buddhist temple adjacent to the Kumano Nachi Taisha.

Statue of a monk in front of Seiganto-ji Temple.

The iconic pagoda behind Seiganto-ji, with Nachi Waterfall in the background.

At 133m Nachi no Taki is the tallest waterfall in Japan.

Wild flowers and bamboo groves along the way to the base of the waterfall.

A small shrine at the base of Nachi no Taki.

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September 19, 2015 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kansai 2015, Kumano Kodo | Tags: 熊野那智大社, 紀伊山地, Daimon-zaka, 那智山, Japan, katsuura, Kii, kodo, Kumano, nachi, Nachi no Taki, nachisan, Seiganto-ji, Shrine, Wakayama, waterfall | Leave a comment

Day 7 – WATAZE ONSEN, Kumano Kodo (熊野古道) 4 of 4, Japan

It was only a short bus ride from Hongu to Wataze Onsen, the hot spring hotel facility where we stayed the night. Wataze Onsen is famous for its outdoor hot spring bathing facilities, some of the largest in the region. We had another relaxing evening at Watarase Onsen Hotel, a perfect getaway destination in the mountains. No foreign tourists could be seen at the outdoor onsen, however, the large hotel complex was decently filled with local visitors to stay the night and some day-trippers who came for the hot spring only.

Bus ride to Wataze Onsen.

The bus passed by Kawayu Onsen, a special thermal spring where visitors can enjoy outdoor onsen by the river.

Bamboo screens were set up along the stream for public use.

After getting off at Wataze Onsen, we found our way down to the main lodging facilities called Watarase Onsen. After crossing a suspended bridge we finally reached the main door of the hot spring hotel.

The main lobby of Watarase Onsen Hotel.

A pilgrim monkey of Kumano Kodo at the hotel lobby.

The rotenburo (outdoor hot spring bath) of Wataze Onsen is one of the largest in West Japan.

The facility includes separate outdoor pools for male and female, as well as several family pools.

After bathing in the hot spring, we enjoyed a decent kaiseki-royori (traditional multi-course Japanese dinner) at the Watarase hotel. This fresh assorted sashimi was served as appetizer.

The Watarase Onsen complex include lodging and bathing facilities along both sides of the river, connected by a suspended bridge.

After the kaiseki dinner, we took a stroll under the starry night.

The cherry trees at Watarase Onsen Hotel were still in full bloom.

It was a peaceful evening with cherry blossoms against the starry sky.

The next morning, we put on our backpacks again and crossed the suspended bridge one last time towards the bus stop.

At Watarase Onsen bus stop we waited for the early morning bus that would take us to Kii Katsuura. We would then store our bags in lockers and switch bus for a visit to Nachisan and the Nachi Taisha, one of the three main Kumano grand shrines after Kumano Hongu Taisha.

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September 18, 2015 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kansai 2015, Kumano Kodo | Tags: bath, 紀伊山地, hot spring, Japan, Kawayu Onsen, Kii, kii katsuura, kodo, Kumano, nachi, nachisan, onsen, Rotenburo, Tanabe, thermal, Watarase Onsen, Wataze, 川湯温泉, 渡瀬温泉 | Leave a comment

DAY 7 – KUMANO HONGU TAISHA, Kumano Kodo (熊野古道) 3 of 4, Japan

At Hongu, we dropped off our backpacks at a locker across the street from the main entrance of Kumano Hongu Taisha. We then went to check out the heritage centre where we learnt a little more about the history of Kumano Hongu Grand Taisha and the Kii mountain range. The Kumano Hongu Taisha is the house for the deity of Kumano Gongen, where pilgrims came to pay their respect to the deities of Kumano area for almost 1000 years. Every spring, the Kumano Hongu Taisha Spring Festival would take place with three days of ceremonies.

On a bench outside of the centre, we took out the lunchboxes for a quick lunch. The yummy lunchboxes were ordered online before we left for our trip and delivered to our hotel at Yunomine in the morning. After lunch, we took our time to visit Kumano Hongu Taisha a second time. This time, we had more time to examine the donor lanterns, flags, signs, etc. along the main access path. After a relaxing stroll around the complex, we walked down the main entrance stairs one last time under the afternoon sun. We picked up our backpacks at the locker and walked over to the bus stop in front of the heritage centre, where we would hop on a bus for Wataze Onsen.

The banner at Kumano Hongu Heritage Center commemorated the 10th anniversary of inscription into UNESCO’s World Heritage for “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range”.

The Heritage Center represents a good example of modern architecture with a traditional touch.

33.9m tall and 42m wide, the Torii gate at the entrance to the sandbank of Oyunohara is the largest in the world. This is where the original Kumano Hongu Taisha stood over a century ago, before the devastating floods destroyed much of the old shrines.

Along with our accommodation and luggage shuttle service, we also reserved this local lunchbox online at http://www.tb-kumano.jp prior our arrival in Japan.

Housed in a bamboo box, our lunchbox contained a number of seasonal local delicacies.

Rebuilt after flood damages, the Zuihouden next to the entrance of Kumano Hongu Taisha houses religious study areas, a hall and a souvenir shop.

The stair leading up to the main shrine is flanked both sides with donor flags.

Worshipers put all kinds of wishes onto these wooden “ema” to communicate with the deities.

Tying the Omikuji, the fortune telling paper slips onto trees or ropes at the shrine is a common customs of worshiping.

Small bamboo flags were another common option for worshipers to leave their messages.

Before entering the complex, cleaning our hands at the purification trough had become a common practice even for foreign visitors like us.

Wooden staff in hand, lots of elderly worshipers spend great effort in walking the pilgrim route before reaching Kumano Hongu Taisha.

Our second visit to the Hongu Taisha. This time we had all the time we needed to wander around the complex.

Beside the main shrines stood this small and popular shrine under tree shade.

After a thorough visit, we walked down the main stair once again.

Lanterns with donor’s name were hung on a rack near the main gate of Kumano Hongu Taisha.

We bid farewell to the Kumano Hongu Taisha under the late afternoon sun.

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September 18, 2015 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kansai 2015, Kumano Kodo | Tags: 熊野本宮大社, 熊野権現, 紀伊山地, gongen, hongu, Japan, Kansai, Kii, kodo, Kumano, oji, Oyunohara, pilgrimage, Shrine, taisha, torii, Wakayama, Yunomine, 大斎原 | Leave a comment

DAY 7 – YUNOMINE ONSEN, Kumano Kodo (熊野古道) 2 of 4, Japan

Since 1800 years ago, Yunomine has always been a popular onsen village in the Kii Mountains. For centuries, its healing water offers a great reward for pilgrims after their visit to the Hongu Taisha. Today, this sleepy onsen village has the oldest hotspring in Japan. Situated at a lush green valley, dozens of timber houses, traditional ryokans and cosy bed and breakfasts cluster along a mountain stream. At the village centre across the bridge from Ryokan Adumaya stands a public bathhouse where visitors buy admission ticket from a vending machine.The only vehicle road passed through the centre of sleepy Yunomine.Traditional ryokans in Yunomine offer visitors a taste of vintage Japan.A stair leads down to the level of the stream where the fenced pool of hotspring becomes the official cooking spot with water from the hot spring. “Onsen tamago”,eggs slowly boiled in the onsen hot spring, is a popular local dish. Other than eggs, the locals also love to boil yams in the 93 degree onsen water. Across the stream from the egg boiling pool stands a hotspring well and pump distributing onsen water to the surrounding houses. Yunomine and its historical Tsuboyu Bath is famous as the healing spot for Hangan Oguri, a clan leader of Oguri Castle 600 years ago. In the background stands the Toko-ji Temple, the main temple in Yunomine.In front of Toko-ji Temple stands the main grocery store. The Toko-ji Temple is located beside the public bathhouse. The shrine at Toko-ji Temple. The entrance of the public bath house of Yunomine Bags of uncooked eggs are prepared for visitors to make “onsen tamago” slowly cooking in the hot spring. The centuries old Tsuboyu Bath is a tiny bath house by the stream. Inside it is small and dark, not ideal for people with speluncaphobia.

From a distance the Tsuboyu Bath seems like a tiny wooden shed that seems vulnerable to flooding. These stone steles situate high on the slope by the main road accessible only via a narrow flight of stair.Bicycle is one of the best means to tour around the Yunomine area. The stone wall that separates the open air onsen at Ryokan Adumaya from the main road. Before we left Yunomine Onsen, we had a leisure stroll around Yunomine. After the walk, we decided to return to Hongu Taisha for a second visit. After a short wait at the only bus stop in the village, we carried our backpacks up the bus heading towards Hongu Taisha.

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July 18, 2015 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kansai 2015, Kumano Kodo | Tags: Adumaya, 紀伊山地, hongu, hotspring, Japan, Japanese, Kii, kodo, Kumano, onsen, ryokan, taisha, Wakayama, Yunomine, 湯の峰 | Leave a comment

DAY 7 – RYOKAN ADUMAYA, Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Kodo (熊野古道) 1 of 4, Japan

Founded by a shrine priest in the mid or late Edo Period, Ryokan Adumaya is a very traditional hotspring inn in Yunomine, the oldest onsen town in Japan. With 22 rooms all finished in traditional Japanese style, the interior of Adumaya is dominated by timber and bamboo. As an onsen ryokan, Adumaya has its own indoor and outdoor hotspring bathing facilities, which can be visited during the day even for visitors who are not staying the night. As hotel guests, we were able to enjoy the hotspring facilities at Adumaya 24 hours round the clock. Despite the short stay, we enjoyed the baths and delicious meals. Signage of Ryokan Adumaya was erected in a naturalistic setting in front of the inn. Situated in the middle of Yunomine Onse across the street from the public bathhouse, Ryokan Adumaya is one of the most prominent building in the village. Beyond the neatly trimmed trees and bushes lies the drop off and main entrance of Ryokan Adumaya. Entering the ryokan through the wooden overhang was liking going back an times of Edo Japan. Beside the main entrance mounted a board with names of hotel guests written on it. Traditional timber finish dominates the lobby and reception area. We had to take off our shoes during our stay. We could choose to put on either a pair of indoor slippers when staying indoor, or a pair of outdoor shoes for venturing out into Yunomine. The sitting area in the lobby was quite atmospheric. The door on the left led to the bathing facilities and souvenir shop. Upstairs on the second level, the entrance into our room was right at the corner next the the main stair. The wooden door then led into a vestibule and then into an anteroom before reaching the main living space of our room. The vestibule also connected to our private toilet. Beyond the sliding doors of the anteroom is main living space where we dined and slept on the tatami. At the far end of the room there was another set of sliding door leading out to the sun room where a tea table stood. The sun room was well lit with natural light. At the far end of the sun room was the vanity counter. From the window we could see the main street and creek that bisected Yunomine. Beyond that stood the village shrine on the left, and the public bathhouse at further back.

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July 9, 2015 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kansai 2015, Kumano Kodo | Tags: Adumaya, Architecture, 紀伊山地, hotel, hotspring, inn, Japan, japaneses, kodo, Kumano, onsen, ryokan, tradition, Wakayama, Yunomine, 温泉, 湯の峰 | Leave a comment

Day 6 – KUMANO HONGU TAISHA TO YUNOMINE ONSEN, Kumano Kodo (熊野古道) 3 of 3, Japan

As one of the Kumano Sanzan, Hongu Taisha is one of the three major shrines of Kumano Shinto shrines, and the main pilgrimage destination in the Kii Mountains since the early 10th century. Originally built on the river delta of Oyunohara, the historical shrine was partially destroyed by floods in 1889. Out of the five original main shrine structures at Oyunohara, three were rebuilt at today’s location about 1km from its original spot. Similar to other Shinto shrines, unfinished wood were widely used in the shrine structures of Kumano Hongu Taisha. Not a single nail had been used in the magnificent timber structures. After a long day of walk, we arrived at Hongu Taisha at around 5pm. We entered the complex through its back entrance. Only a few local visitors were around. All the shops and vending stalls selling religious souvenirs were already closed. We quietly wandered around the ground, paid our respect to the deities, and decided to return for another visit the next day. We exited the ground from its main entrance. Across the street from the main entrance stood the Kumano Hongu Heritage Centre and the local bus stop. It was a relief after we realized that the last bus to Yunomine was still yet to come. It was only ten minutes of bus ride from Hongu to Yunomine, the small village famous for its 1800 year old onsen. From Takijiri to Hongu Taisha, we covered a little over 40km of hiking in two days. At Yunomine Onsen, it was the time for a well deserved rest and a dip into one of its hotsprings. We arrived at Yunomine in the evening. After we checked into our traditional rooms in Ryokan Adumaya, the hotel staff immediately prepared our Kaiseki dinner in our room. Ryokan Adumaya is the oldest guesthouse in the village, with its own hotspring baths and traditional tatami rooms serving both foreign and local visitors. After the dinner, the hotel staff set up the bed and blanket for us on the bamboo tatami. We silently walked into the shrine complex from the back entrance, which led us into the outer courtyard of the shrine complex. Unfinished timber gate structure that leads to the inner courtyard of the shrine complex. Gateway into the inner courtyard of the shrine complex. The three main shrine structures at the core of the inner courtyard were off limits to visitors. One of the three main shrine structures rebuilt after the move from the original location in 1889. Bronze features on the rooftop of the shrine structures. Chigi, the crossed detail on rooftop, is a common feature in Japanese Shinto architecture. The main stairway led us to the front entrance of Hongu Taisha. At the bus stop in front of Kumano Hongu Heritage Centre, we waited for the day’s last bus for Yunomine, where we would stay the night at a local hotspring inn. The main creek ran through the entire village of Yunomine at its centre. The public hotspring bath and the adjacent shop/ eatery were still open at 8 in the evening. Below the village shrine by the creek stood the piping system distributing the hotspring water to different parts of the village. We checked in at Ryokan Adumaya, the oldest hotspring inn at Yunomine. Kaiseki dinner at Ryokan Adumaya. Kaiseki dinner at Ryokan Adumaya. Kaiseki dinner at Ryokan Adumaya. Menu of the Kaiseki dinner at Ryokan Adumaya. Bedding and blanket were all set as soon as we finished the delicious dinner. Before bedtime, we still managed to visit the hotspring in the ryokan.