machiya | Blue Lapis Road

ARCADES & TEMPLES, Nishiki Market (錦市場) & Teramachi Shopping Street (寺町通商店街), Kyoto (京都), Japan

No matter in Rome, Buenos Aires or Hong Kong, taking morning walks is always one of our most enjoyable ways to appreciate a city. With an ever-present tranquility, elegance and otherworldliness, Kyoto is perfect for a morning stroll, especially to appreciate the beautiful tones of aged timber, indigo shingles and seasonal vegetation all under the crisp air of surrounding mountains. And what’s best to start a morning walk? For us, it’s a cup of good coffee. Tucked in a corner of an almost unnoticeable parking lot a block away from Nishiki Market (錦市場), a tiny coffee shop successfully captured our attention with its rich aroma and lovely ambience. Housed in an old machiya house, Weekenders Coffee provokes memories of a traditional kissaten (喫茶店) where writers and intellectuals in the old days gathered for a cup of tea or coffee. Opened since 2005, Weekenders was one of the first espresso shops in Kyoto. At Weekenders, a few customers may gather at the forecourt sipping coffee while resting the eyes upon a tiny Japanese garden. This was exactly what we did: sitting in front of the coffee shop at 7:30 in the morning, sniffing in fresh morning air and coffee aroma, and being enchanted with the pleasure of life.

At Nishiki Market, pickle vendors and fishmongers were busy setting up their stores. Laughter and giggles could be heard behind the counter of a tamagoyaki (Japanese rolled omelette) shop, where a team of staff were busy making omelettes for the day. It was still way too early to taste the food and shop for grocery at the iconic 400-year-old market. Unlike the crowded scenes during our 2016 visit, this time we almost had Nishiki all by ourselves. At the eastern end of where the market met Teramachi Shopping Street, we were once again attracted by the lanterns of Nishiki-Tenmangu Shrine (錦天満宮) just like in 2016. Headed north from the shrine, we entered the arcade of Teramachi Shopping Street (寺町通商店街), a famous destination for both locals and tourists.

Literally means “Temple Town Street”, Teramachi (寺町通) has much more to offer than a covered arcade both sides flanked by shops. In 1590, 80 or so Buddhist temples from the area were relocated to Teramachi. It was Toyotomi Hideyoshi (豊臣秀吉), the powerful daimyo (feudal lord) or de facto ruler of Japan, who ordered the move during Sengoku period (戦国時代) in the late 16th century. In the subsequent centuries, stores selling books, Buddhist rosaries, medicine, stationery, handicrafts and clothing flourished and gradually developed into the present arcades. Today, in the midst of shops, restaurants, and entertainment facilities, places of worship and even small graveyards maintain a strong presence at Teramachi, with temple entrances open right next to boutiques and stores. While most shops on Teramachi and the adjacent Shinkyogoku Shopping Street (新京極商店街) had yet opened for business, we took the opportunity to do some temple hopping while window shopping at the same time.

Hidden in a corner of a neighborhood parking lot, Weekenders Coffee offers great coffee in a traditional setting. [2022.12.27]

The coffee aroma goes well with the traditional *machiya* setting. [2022.12.27]

Weekenders Coffee is the perfect place to start the day. [2022.12.27]

The tiny forecourt has a certain zen quality that calms every customer. [2022.12.27]

A marvelous cup of latte to start our first full day in Kyoto. [2022.12.27]

After Weekenders, we walked over to Nishiki, the 400 year old market at the heart of Kyoto. [2022.12.27]

We came too early. Most shops at Nishiki Market had yet opened for business. [2022.12.27]

Staff at Miki Keiran (三木鶏卵) *tamagoyaki* (Japanese rolled omelette) shop were busy preparing omelettes for the day. [2022.12.27]

Unlike 2016’s visit, we didn’t eat or buy anything at Nishiki Market. [2022.12.27]

Nishiki-Tenmangu Shrine (錦天満宮) marks the eastern end of Nishiki Market. [2022.12.27]

The lanterns of Nishiki-Tenmangu Shrine forms a lovely gateway to the shrine compound. [2022.12.27]

*Nade-ushi*, the cow messenger associated with the deity of Tenjin, the god of scholarship, is proudly on display at Nishiki-Tenmangu Shrine. [2022.12.27]

Nishiki-Tenmangu Shrine is full of fine details and elegant offerings. [2022.12.27]

It was surprising to see red maple leaves were still around at the end of December. [2022.12.27]

From Nishiki-Tenmangu Shrine, we turned north onto Teramachi Shopping Street. [2022.12.27]

Perhaps it was the cold weather, we were quite hungry as we walked. We stopped briefly at a local bakery chain store Pan-no-Tajima (パンの田島) for a quick breakfast before continuing our walk. [2022.12.27]

Along with the adjacent Shinkyogoku Shopping Street (新京極商店街), the covered arcade of Teramachi (寺町通) offers a wide range of merchandises, from clothing, books, souvenirs to religious goods. [2022.12.27]

The covered arcades also serve as a primary entertainment district for the younger generation. [2022.12.27]

Selfie backdrops for New Year celebration could be found at a number of spots in the shopping arcades. [2022.12.27]

Wandering at the shopping arcade in early morning when most shops were still shuttered offer us a quiet moment to admire the visual complexity of the retail district. [2022.12.27]

Literally means “Temple Town Street”, Teramachi (寺町通) is home to many temples and shrines since Toyotomi Hideyoshi relocated a large group of religious institutions into Downtown Kyoto four hundred years ago. [2022.12.27]

Thanks to the red banners, Eifuku-ji Temple (永福寺) and Takoyakushi-dō (蛸薬師堂) is one of many temples relocated to Teramachi Shopping Street 400 years ago. [2022.12.27]

Behind a few clothing stores we found the entrance of Seishin-in Temple (誠心院), and a cheerful selfie backdrop to welcome New Year visitors. [2022.12.27]

In such close proximity to the busy shopping arcades, it was a surprise to find a cemetery behind Seishin-in. [2022.12.27]

The cemetery at Seishin-in appeared like a tranquil backyard for the temple. [2022.12.27]

The triangular Rokkun Plaza (ろっくんプラザ) is a well known meeting point at the heart of the shopping arcades. [2022.12.27]

January 27, 2023 | Categories: Honshu: Kansai Region, Japan, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: arcade, ろっくんプラザ, coffee, 錦天満宮, 錦市場, 蛸薬師堂, 誠心院, 豊臣秀吉, Japan, Kyoto, machiya, market, Miki Keiran, Nishiki, Pan-no-Tajima, Rokkun Plaza, Seishin-in, Shinkyogoku, shopping, Shrine, Takoyakushi-dō, Temple, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, 商店街, 寺町通, 新京極, 永福寺, 三木鶏卵 | Leave a comment

FIRST GETAWAY SINCE THE PANDEMIC, Kyoto (京都) and Kinosaki Onsen (城崎温泉), Japan. 2022.12.26 – 2023.01.01

After returning from Sri Lanka in December 2019, we never thought it would be another three years before we could travel again. Haven’t traveled for such a long time, it almost felt a little surreal when we went online to purchase the plane tickets. In fact, our trip was a rather ad-hoc decision made less than ten days before departure. To resume traveling after Covid, Japan was an intuitive choice for us, where cities are clean, people friendly, and the food fantastic. A revisit to Kyoto was always in our mind since our last visit in 2016. Kyoto is such an amazing city where we can wander around aimlessly from dawn till dusk, just to take in the rich history, seasonal colours, and serene ambience. Apart from Kyoto, we picked Kinosaki Onsen, a hot spring town 2.5 hours train ride away, as a side trip. After booking one of the last Kinosaki ryokan rooms available online, buying a new suitcase (we threw out the old one during the pandemic), and uploading our vaccination papers to the Japanese authorities, we could finally think about what to do in Kyoto. The planning turned out not as easy as we thought, since many attractions, museums, shops and restaurants would be closed around the New Year. On the other hand, staying in Kyoto for the New Year to witness their traditional celebrations could be a unique and remarkable experience.

After hosting our best friend for dinner at our apartment on Christmas Day, we left for the airport before dawn on Boxing Day. Hong Kong International Airport was full of outbound travelers like us, who were desperate to fly out the city as soon as the Covid restrictions were relaxed. We were overwhelmed by joy and excitement as soon as we boarded the plane. Didn’t recall we have ever got so excited just to look out the window and watch the plane lifting off. After three hours of flying, our plane made a turn over the mouth of Yoshino River (吉野川) and Tokushima (徳島), and gradually descended over the waters of Wakayama Bay (和歌山湾) and Osaka Bay (大阪湾) towards Kansai Airport. Several minutes later, our plane gently touched down onto the tarmac runway, signifying our return to Japan after 3.5 years. Despite the additional Covid related procedures, our arrival at Kansai Airport was rather smooth and hassle free. After picking up the JR rail passes and topping up our old ICOCA cards, we hopped on the Haruka Express train bounded for Kyoto Station (京都駅).

Evening had already fallen upon by the time we arrived in Kyoto. Under the glazed canopy, the splendid station atrium was teeming with rush hour travelers. We found our way to Shijo Karasuma (四条烏丸), checked in at our hotel, and immediately headed out to look for a restaurant (as we had skipped lunch on the plane). In Downtown Kyoto, we were spoiled with dining options. Before eating, we stopped by a small shop selling traditional Kyoto pickles or Tsukemono (漬物), a regional household delicacy dated back to the pre refrigeration years. All kinds of local vegetables pickled in salt, soya sauce, vinegar, or miso, and packed in lovely wrapping. It was impossible to resist and we ended up getting some to bring home. For dinner, we picked a cozy izakaya with a decent menu of deep fried Kyoto snacks. Fried shrimps and beef skewers topped with sea urchin, all washed down with sips of local sake. What a perfect treat to make us forget about the pandemic misery and officially kick start our short Kyoto vacation.

We arrived at Hong Kong International Airport after sunrise. [2022.12.26]

It was exciting to resume traveling after three years of pandemic. [2022.12.26]

Our plane made a turn over Yoshino River and Tokushima before descending to Osaka Bay and Kansai International Airport. [2022.12.26]

The JR office at Kansai Airport is often the first site where foreign travelers would visit. [2022.12.26]

By the time we hopped on a Kyoto bounded Haruka Express train, the sun was already setting. [2022.12.26]

Kyoto Station was teemed with pedestrians when we arrived in the evening. [2022.12.26]

Outside the station, the 131m-Kyoto Tower stood proudly as the tallest structure in the city. [2022.12.26]

The inner streets of Shijo Karasuma were full of lovely *machiya* (町家), traditional wooden houses with ground floor shops and upper residences. [2022.12.26]

Housed in *machiya*, small shops or restaurants in Downtown Kyoto were cozy and warm. [2022.12.26]

Before dinner, we stopped by Eirakuya (永楽屋室町店) to shop for traditional Kyoto pickles or *Tsukemono* (漬物) and Japanese confections. (2022.12.26)

We ended up picking an izakaya serving deep fried snacks for dinner. [2022.12.26]

The deep fried snacks went perfectly well with sake and beer. [2022.12.26]

Our hotel blended in well with the surrounding *machiya* houses. [2022.12.26]

A lush green courtyard sat silently as the centerpiece of our hotel lobby. [2022.12.26]

During breakfast time, our hotel restaurant was quite popular among local Japanese. [2022.12.27]

Just a stone throw away from our hotel, Karasuma Dori (烏丸通り) is the main north south thoroughfare in Kyoto. [2022.12.27]

A morning stroll around the neighbourhood of Shijo Karasuma brought us face to face with many *machiya* houses. [2022.12.27]

Since Kyoto was spared from bombing during WWII, many *machiya* houses survive till the present day. [2022.12.27]

Other than traditional houses, minimalist modern buildings dotted around Shijo Karasuma as well. [2022.12.27]

Interesting buildings include this office block near our hotel. [2022.12.27]

But what caught our eyes in most cases were always the timber *machiya* houses of Kyoto. [2022.12.27]

January 22, 2023 | Categories: Honshu: Kansai Region, Japan, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: airport, 町家, Eirakuya, Haruka, Hong Kong, Japan, Japanese, Kansai, Kinosaki, KIX, Kyoto, machiya, onsen, plane, Shijo Karasuma, station, Tower, train, tsukemono, 四条烏丸, 城崎, 永楽屋, 温泉, 京都, 漬物 | 2 Comments

DAY 5 (4/5): YOSHIJIMA HOUSE (吉島家住宅), Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山), Gifu Prefecture (岐阜県), Japan, 2018.05.29

Other than the Hida beef and sake, the other two places we planned to visit in Takayama were the Miyagawa Morning Market (宮川朝市) and Yoshijima House (吉島家住宅). According to guidebooks, for anyone who are interested in architecture and design, Yoshijima House is a must-go in Takayama. The Yoshijima House has been published in various design magazines and is considered an excellent example of machiya or traditional townhouse architecture of the Hida region. Built in 1907 by master carpenter Nishida Isaburo (西田伊三郎), the student of the fourth Mizuma Sagami (水間相模), the timber house of Yoshijima exemplifies the supreme craftsmanship of the traditional Hida carpentry. Today, the house is designated as a national important cultural property and a popular tourist attraction. From Sanmachi Suji (三町筋) or the old town, Yoshijima House is just a few blocks to the north beyond a water channel.

The sugitama (杉玉) outside of Yoshijima House reveals its original identity as a well known sake breweries in Takayama.

From outside, a traditional outer wall conceals the inner garden of the Yoshijima House.

Beyond the entrance vestibule, we entered into a large and airy hall. The middle part of the hall with hard flooring indicated where the sake shop was once situated, whereas the raised tatami areas belonged to the living spaces of the Yoshijima family.

We were told by the museum staff to take the wooden stair and visit the upper level first.

On the upper level, we walked through a series of tatami spaces. These spaces were used by the children of the family back in the old days.

The simplicity of design details and building materials express a sense of minimalism that is still dominating Japanese architectural design.

Occasional design elaborations such as the painted cupboard panels provide a touch of artistic beauty and focus.

Level difference is being used as a means to define two separated spaces.

The wood stairs are beautiful but a little steep.

Small architectural details throughout the building highlight the level of family status and quality of the carpentry.

The ground floor of Yoshijima House reveals the flexibility of partitioning in a traditional Japanese house. All rooms are interconnected with sliding doors, allowing utmost freedom for space planning.

There is no specific function for each 6-tatami room. When a table is set up in the tatami room then it will become a dining room. And when bedding is arranged, the same room will be transformed into a bedroom.

When all sliding panels are removed, the ground floor will become one large space for special uses.

Like many Japanese houses, a courtyard flanked with verandas provides pleasant semi-outdoor spaces for the house users.

During our visit, artworks and magazines about the Yoshijima House were on displayed at the former sake making and storage area, where beautiful jazz music was playing in the background.

The most famous feature of the Yoshijima House is the prominent posts and beams at the main hall. The spaces with the charcoal brazier set were used as living and dining room for the family.

The high windows allow light to create a pleasant ambience at the main hall.

The beauty of wood is essential to the interiors of the house. The wood beams and posts are covered with thin layer of lacquer, and have been periodically polished with cloth by the family since completion.

The antique clock on the wall reminded us the Meiji Era at the turning of the 20th century when Japan opened its doors to welcome Western technologies and knowledge and went through a rapid process of modernization.

* * *

CHUBU (中部地方) 2018, Japan, 2018.05.25 – 06.03
Introduction

Day 1: Tokyo (東京)
1.1 TSUKIJI OUTER MARKET (築地場外市場)
1.2 TSUKIJI INNER MARKET (築地中央卸売市場)
1.3 MORI ART MUSEUM (森美術館), 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT & CAFE KITSUNE

Day 2: Matsumoto (松本)& Kamikochi (上高地)
2.1 MATSUMOTO CASTLE (松本城), Matsumoto (松本)
2.2 “ALL ABOUT MY LOVE”, Yayoi Kusama’s Exhibition at Matsumoto City Museum of Art (松本市美術館), Matsumoto (松本)
2.3 MATSUMOTO PERFORMING ARTS CENTER (まつもと市民芸術館), Matsumoto (松本)
2.4 FROM MATSUMOTO (松本) TO KAMIKOCHI (上高地)
2.5 ARRIVAL IN KAMIKOCHI (上高地), Chūbu-Sangaku National Park (中部山岳国立公園)

Day 3: Kamikochi (上高地)
3.1 MORNING WALK IN KAMIKOCHI (上高地), Nagano Prefecture (長野県)
3.2 DAKESAWA HIKE (岳沢), Kamikochi (上高地)

Day 4: Kamikochi (上高地) & Shirahone Onsen (白骨温泉)
4.1 TAISHO POND (大正池), Kamikochi (上高地)
4.2 RETREAT IN THE JAPANESE ALPS, Shirahone Onsen (白骨温泉)
4.3 MOMENTS OF ESCAPE, Tsuruya Ryokan (つるや旅館), Shirahone Onsen (白骨温泉)

Day 5: Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山)
5.1 CITY IN THE MOUNTAINS, Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山)
5.2 HIDA BEEF (飛騨牛), Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山)
5.3 SAKE (日本酒) BREWERIES, Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山)
5.4 YOSHIJIMA HOUSE (吉島家住宅), Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山)
5.5 HIGASHIYAMA WALKING COURSE (東山遊歩道), Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山)

Day 6: Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山), Shirakawa-go (白川郷) & Ainokura (相倉)
6.1 MIYAGAWA MORNING MARKET (宮川朝市), Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山), Gifu Prefecture (岐阜県)
6.2 OGIMACHI IN THE RAIN, Shirakawa-go (白川郷), Gifu Prefecture (岐阜県)
6.3 SOBA, TEMPLE & LOOKOUT, Shirakawa-go (白川郷)
6.4 RAINY AFTERNOON IN AINOKURA (相倉), Gokayama (五箇山)
6.5 GASSHO MINSHUKU, FLOWER BEDS & RICE PADDY FIELDS, Ainokura (相倉), Gokayama (五箇山)
6.6 CROAKING FROGS AND MOONLIGHT REFLECTIONS, Gokayama (五箇山)

Day 7: Kanazawa (金沢)
7.1 DEPARTURE IN THE RAIN, Ainokura (相倉) to Kanazawa (金沢)
7.2 A SEAFOOD PARADISE – OMICHO MARKET (近江町市場)
7.3 D T Suzuki Museum (鈴木大拙館)
7.4 Kenroku-en Garden (兼六園)
7.5 Oyama Shrine (尾山神社) and Nagamachi Samurai District (長町)
7.6 Nomura Samurai House (武家屋敷跡野村家), Nagamachi Samurai District (長町)
7.7 Sushi Ippei (一平鮨), Katamachi (片町)

Day 8: Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture (金沢, 石川県)
8.1 Iki Iki Tei (いきいき亭) and Higashide Coffee (東出珈琲店), Omicho Market (近江町市場)
8.2 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art (21世紀美術館)
8.3 Kazuemachi District (主計町茶屋街)
8.4 Higashi Chaya District (東山ひがし茶屋街)
8.5 Kaga Yuzen Toro Nagashi (加賀友禅燈ろう流し), Asano River (浅野川)
8.6 AFTERMATH OF KAGA YUZEN TORO NAGASHI (加賀友禅燈ろう流し)

Day 9 & 10: Tokyo (東京)
9.1 Marunouchi (丸の内) & Nihonbashi (日本橋)
10.1 OEDO ANTIQUE MARKET (大江戸骨董市), Tokyo Forum (東京国際フォーラム)
10.2 FARMER’S MARKET, United Nations University (東京国連大学), Aoyama (青山)

July 31, 2018 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Chubu 2018, Japanese Alps, Takayama, Uncategorized | Tags: Architecture, building, design, 飛騨, 西田伊三郎, 高山, house, machiya, Nishida Isaburo, sugitama, Takayama, tatami, timber, Yoshijima, 吉島家住宅, 岐阜県, 杉玉 | Leave a comment

DAY 2 (5/6): SFERA BUILDING (スフェラ・ビル), SHIRKAWA GION (祇園白川), KAMO RIVER (鴨川) & DOWNTOWN, Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.04

Weather forecast predicted a rainy afternoon. We planned to spend the rest of the day in Downtown Kyoto on the other side of Kamo River (鴨川). Before crossing the river, we went to check out Sfera Building, a three storey modern architecture housing design, craft, art, and cuisine all under one roof. Unlike the timber houses in much of Gion (祇園), Swedish architect Claesson Koivisto Rune used titanium panels with perforated leaf patterns as cladding for Sfera Building. These perforated panels echo the sunscreens in traditional Japanese houses made of wood, bamboo and rice paper. In Sfera, there were fine furniture and housewares on display, some were made by local craftsmen and artists. We explored all floors of the building, and exited through its back door on Yamato Oji Dori. Just a block south we came to the picturesque Shirakawa Minami Dori (白川南通) at Shirakawa Gion (祇園白川), where the clear Shirakawa Canal passed in front of a row of well-preserved machiya houses (町家). Many of these old houses were accessible via bridges. We entered Pass the Baton, a trendy lifestyle shop that transformed a 120 year timber machiya house into a hub for the young generation. A number of the locals were dressed in traditional kimonos, matching perfectly well with the historical ambience of the machiya houses.

We crossed the Kamo River (鴨川) via Shijo Bridge, which continued as Shijo Dori into the heart of Downtown Kyoto. In summer, the banks of Kamo River is packed with dining patios and music performers. It was too cold in early December for these outdoor activities to take place. Nevertheless, the pleasant riverbanks were occupied with all kinds of people. A few waterbirds were walking in shallow water hunting for fish. On the bank, a group of teenage girls in colourful kimonos were taking selfies. An angler walked to the middle of the river and released his hook with his rod. We watched him for a few minutes, and suddenly he pulled his rod and acted like caught something on his hook. All eyes along the banks, including ours from the bridge, were on the angler. He didn’t disappoint us and managed to catch a fish that was at least two feet long.

As we walked west along the busy Shijo Dori (四条通) into the city, it soon began to rain. We went into Fujii Daimaru (藤井大丸), one of the many department stores on Shijo Dori. Despite smallest in size, with its latest fashion selections, Fujii Daimaru is popular with young shoppers. We walked along Shijo Dori as far as the intersection of Karasuma Dori (烏丸通), reaching a shopping centre called Cocon Karasuma (古今烏丸), which was a renovation work designed by architect Kengo Kuma (隈研吾) back in 2004. Kengo Kuma superimposes a 21st century glass facade laminated with a film of woodcut block patterns of clouds common in the Edo Period onto the original building elevation dated back to 1938. The sky was getting dark and we decided to grab a quick bite. Just before all vendor shutters were down, we entered Nishiki Market (錦市場), a famous covered market street selling all kinds of snacks from sushi to Japanese pickles. We picked up some tofu doughnuts at Konnamonja, and some local jumbo chestnuts before heading back to our hotel for a brief break prior to our dinner reservation at Yakitori Hitomi (焼創彩鳥家人見).

The titanium screen with leaf patterns of Sfera Building by Swedish architectural practice Claesson Koivisto Rune.

The design display on the top floor of Sfera Building.

The sleek bench at the back entrance at Sfera.

Back facade of Sfera Building at Yamato Oji Don.

The tranquil Shirakawa Canal at Gion (祇園白川)

Young women in traditional kimonos at Shirakawa Gion (祇園白川)

Couple in traditional clothings taking photos Shirakawa Gion (祇園白川)

A touch of heritage in the interior design at Pass the Baton, Shirakawa Gion (祇園白川)

Kamo River (鴨川) is a popular public space in Kyoto.

Women in kimonos taking pictures of themselves at Kamo River (鴨川).

The iconic Tohka-Saikan (東華菜館) Chinese restaurant building by the bank of Kamo River (鴨川).

An angler struggling with his catch at Kamo River (鴨川).

Our first encounter with Kamo River (鴨川) was simple and pleasant.

A man playing a three-string Shamisen (三味線) with his bachi, a Japanese plectrum.

Erizen Honten (ゑり善本店), a traditional clothing shop with a contemporary facade on Shijo.

Cocon Karasuma, an urban shopping centre designed by architect Kengo Kuma.

An atrium of Cocon Karasuma with a special pop up store of sake from Fushimi.

Covered retail street in Downtown Kyoto.

Soy vendor Konnamonja with their famous tofu doughnuts at Nishiki.

Tofu doughnuts from Konnamonja at Nishiki Market.

Local chestnut from Nishiki Market.

***

January 28, 2017 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kyoto and Nara 2016, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: Architecture, ゑり善本店, bachi, Claesson Koivisto Rune, Cocon Karasuma, 烏丸, 烏丸通, 町家, 白川, 白川南通, 祇園, design, Erizen Honten, 錦市場, 藤井大丸, 隈研吾, 鴨川, Gion, Japan, Kamo, Karasuma, Kengo Kuma, Konnamonja, Kyoto, machiya, market, Nishiki, plectrum, Sfera, shamisen, Shijo, Shirakawa, Shirakawa Minami Dori, 古今烏丸, 三味線 | Leave a comment

DAY 2 (1/6): MORNING STROLL IN SOUTHERN HIGASHIYAMA (東山), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.04

There is perhaps no better place in Kyoto to take a morning stroll than the area of Southern Higashiyama, in the historical alleyways between Yasaka Jinja (八坂神社) and Kiyomizu-dera Temple (清水寺). The bus dropped us off at the street intersection of Higashioji Dori (東大路通) and Shijo Dori (四条通). We picked up a box of sushi from Lawson convenience store for breakfast, then crossed the road to enter Yasaka Shrine from its west gate. Yasaka Jinja is one of the most popular shrines in Kyoto, especially when the most famous festival in Japan, Gion Matsuri, takes place annually in July for over a thousand years. Though in the early morning that we visited, there were only a handful of worshipers and tourists around. Like many Shinto shrines, Yasaka was like a park dotted with pavilions and shrines. The most prominent feature in Yasaka was the central pavilion of lanterns with donor names written on them. Exiting the shrine from its south gate, we headed south in the direction of Kiyomizu-dera, intending to return to this iconic temple for a daytime visit. Soon we reached the entrance of a traditional stone paved alleyway known as Ishibei Koji (石塀小路). Flanked both sides by historical timber homes, restaurants and ryokans, the alleyway exemplified what Medieval Kyoto might be like. We were delighted to have the lane all by ourselves. After making a few turns in Ishibei Koji, we exited the alleyway at the other end, standing just a stone throw away from two other greatly preserved historical alleyways, Ninenzaka (二年坂) and Sannenzaka (三年坂).

From Ishibei Koji, we continued to walk south on Nene-no-michi Lane (ねねの道), the historical stone paved street in front of the park of Kodaiji Temple. Soon we arrived at the picturesque Ninenzaka (二年坂). Timber townhouses known as machiya (町屋) were beautifully preserved along this heritage lane. Telephone cables which were normally suspended in mid air from street poles to street poles were nowhere to be seen. It was still early, shops had yet opened their doors and there were hardly any other tourists. We took our time to soak up the historical atmosphere. When we reached Yasaka Dori (八坂通), we made a short detour down to take a daytime photo of the Yasaka Pagoda of Hokanji Temple (法観寺八坂の塔). Heading back uphill and we soon arrived at Sannenzaka (三年坂), another atmospheric lane with steps that led us to Matsubara Dori (松原通), the last bit of road that would take us back to the entrance of the most iconic temple in Japan, Kiyomizu-dera Temple (清水寺).

Arriving at the intersection of Higashioji Dori (東大路通) and Shijo Dori (四条通).