Higashiyama | Blue Lapis Road

DAY 5 (5/5): HIGASHIYAMA WALKING COURSE (東山遊歩道), Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山), Gifu Prefecture (岐阜県), Japan, 2018.05.29

In Kyoto, Higashiyama (東山) is a famous historical district of temples, shrines, pagodas, and old streets. In Takayama, Higashiyama Walking Course (東山遊歩道) that ventures into the quiet side of the city, the Teramachi Temple Area. The 3.5km trail meander through a dozen or so temples and shrines in about 1.5 hour of walking, and does offer a Kyoto-like experience of temple hopping in the eastern side of the Takayama. The Higashiyama Walking Course provides a great alternative from the crowded scenes of Sanmachi Suji District.

After touring the touristy Sanmachi Suji, we turned to the calmer side of Takayama. Following Google Map, we found our way up to Shiroyama Park (城山公園), the lush green hill southeast of the historical district of Takayama.

Apart from lush green mature trees, the Shiroyama Park (城山公園) also contains the ruins of the former Takayama Castle (高山城).

As the castle of the former governor of the Hida Province, Takayama castle was in use from 1588 to 1695.

On our way down to the Teramachi Temple Area, we passed by a stone stele depicting the Three wise monkeys: see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil.

We passed by Dairyuji Temple (大隆寺) and its cemetery, continuing to walk downhill.

We left Shiroyama Park via Dairyuji Temple, crossed a canal and entered a quiet residential neighborhood dotted with temples and shrine. The first temple we passed by was the torii gate and stair that led up to the Nishikiyama Shrine (錦山神社).

We continued the Higashiyama Walking Course and reached the next temple: Soyuji Temple (宗猷寺). Located in the southernmost area of Teramachi Temple Area, the Buddhist temple of the Rinzai sect was built in 1632.

We walked over to Zennoji Temple (善応寺) a family temple of the lord of Matsukura castle.

We were then attracted by the flower blossoms, trees and shrubs around a dry garden of Hokkeji Temple (法華寺).

The beautiful wooden structures of Hokkeji Temple (法華寺) are the only Buddhist temple of the Nichiren sect in Hida.

It was already quite late when we arrived at Hokkeji Temple (法華寺). We had both the temple and the popular stone bridge all by ourselves. Although small in scale, the pond and stone bridge at the forecourt evoked a strong sense of nostalgic charm .

Sogenji Temple (素玄寺) is a Soto Zen sect stood next in line in our tour of the Higashiyama Walking Course.

The main hall of Sogenji was relocated here from the ruins of Takayama Castle.

Opposite to Sogenji stood Daiouji Temple (東林山大雄寺). We were particularly drawn to a small shrine with stone statues and a vivid picture of Hell.

Towards the end of our tour of the Higashiyama Walking Course, we reached another tranquil temple complex, the Unryuji Temple (雲龍寺) (many visitors would consider this temple the beginning of the walk).

The gate tower of Unryuji was relocated from the Kouun Pavilion of Takayama Castle. Through the gate, we could see a tranquil residence district down below.

After wandering around the Unryuji Temple, it was time for us to head back to the city centre for dinner. We walked passed a small cemetery near Unryuji and turned left down to the Edogawa River.

We wandered in the small alleyways near Edogawa River, trying to zigzag ourselves back to the touristy city centre.

It was lovely to walk along the river. We followed the water for a while, slowly admiring the traditional houses under the late afternoon sunlight. It did feel like walking in some old neighborhood of Kyoto.

* * *

CHUBU (中部地方) 2018, Japan, 2018.05.25 – 06.03
Introduction

Day 1: Tokyo (東京)
1.1 TSUKIJI OUTER MARKET (築地場外市場)
1.2 TSUKIJI INNER MARKET (築地中央卸売市場)
1.3 MORI ART MUSEUM (森美術館), 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT & CAFE KITSUNE

Day 2: Matsumoto (松本)& Kamikochi (上高地)
2.1 MATSUMOTO CASTLE (松本城), Matsumoto (松本)
2.2 “ALL ABOUT MY LOVE”, Yayoi Kusama’s Exhibition at Matsumoto City Museum of Art (松本市美術館), Matsumoto (松本)
2.3 MATSUMOTO PERFORMING ARTS CENTER (まつもと市民芸術館), Matsumoto (松本)
2.4 FROM MATSUMOTO (松本) TO KAMIKOCHI (上高地)
2.5 ARRIVAL IN KAMIKOCHI (上高地), Chūbu-Sangaku National Park (中部山岳国立公園)

Day 3: Kamikochi (上高地)
3.1 MORNING WALK IN KAMIKOCHI (上高地), Nagano Prefecture (長野県)
3.2 DAKESAWA HIKE (岳沢), Kamikochi (上高地)

Day 4: Kamikochi (上高地) & Shirahone Onsen (白骨温泉)
4.1 TAISHO POND (大正池), Kamikochi (上高地)
4.2 RETREAT IN THE JAPANESE ALPS, Shirahone Onsen (白骨温泉)
4.3 MOMENTS OF ESCAPE, Tsuruya Ryokan (つるや旅館), Shirahone Onsen (白骨温泉)

Day 5: Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山)
5.1 CITY IN THE MOUNTAINS, Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山)
5.2 HIDA BEEF (飛騨牛), Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山)
5.3 SAKE (日本酒) BREWERIES, Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山)
5.4 YOSHIJIMA HOUSE (吉島家住宅), Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山)
5.5 HIGASHIYAMA WALKING COURSE (東山遊歩道), Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山)

Day 6: Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山), Shirakawa-go (白川郷) & Ainokura (相倉)
6.1 MIYAGAWA MORNING MARKET (宮川朝市), Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山), Gifu Prefecture (岐阜県)
6.2 OGIMACHI IN THE RAIN, Shirakawa-go (白川郷), Gifu Prefecture (岐阜県)
6.3 SOBA, TEMPLE & LOOKOUT, Shirakawa-go (白川郷)
6.4 RAINY AFTERNOON IN AINOKURA (相倉), Gokayama (五箇山)
6.5 GASSHO MINSHUKU, FLOWER BEDS & RICE PADDY FIELDS, Ainokura (相倉), Gokayama (五箇山)
6.6 CROAKING FROGS AND MOONLIGHT REFLECTIONS, Gokayama (五箇山)

Day 7: Kanazawa (金沢)
7.1 DEPARTURE IN THE RAIN, Ainokura (相倉) to Kanazawa (金沢)
7.2 A SEAFOOD PARADISE – OMICHO MARKET (近江町市場)
7.3 D T Suzuki Museum (鈴木大拙館)
7.4 Kenroku-en Garden (兼六園)
7.5 Oyama Shrine (尾山神社) and Nagamachi Samurai District (長町)
7.6 Nomura Samurai House (武家屋敷跡野村家), Nagamachi Samurai District (長町)
7.7 Sushi Ippei (一平鮨), Katamachi (片町)

Day 8: Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture (金沢, 石川県)
8.1 Iki Iki Tei (いきいき亭) and Higashide Coffee (東出珈琲店), Omicho Market (近江町市場)
8.2 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art (21世紀美術館)
8.3 Kazuemachi District (主計町茶屋街)
8.4 Higashi Chaya District (東山ひがし茶屋街)
8.5 Kaga Yuzen Toro Nagashi (加賀友禅燈ろう流し), Asano River (浅野川)
8.6 AFTERMATH OF KAGA YUZEN TORO NAGASHI (加賀友禅燈ろう流し)

Day 9 & 10: Tokyo (東京)
9.1 Marunouchi (丸の内) & Nihonbashi (日本橋)
10.1 OEDO ANTIQUE MARKET (大江戸骨董市), Tokyo Forum (東京国際フォーラム)
10.2 FARMER’S MARKET, United Nations University (東京国連大学), Aoyama (青山)

August 7, 2018 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Chubu 2018, Japanese Alps, Takayama | Tags: Course, 素玄寺, Daiouji, Dairyuji, Edogawa, 錦山神社, 雲龍寺, 飛騨, 高山, 高山城, Hida, Higashiyama, Hokkeji, Japan, Japanese, Nishikiyama, Shiroyama, Shrine, Sogenji, Soyuji, Takayama, Temple, Teramachi, Unryuji, Walking, Zennoji, 善応寺, 城山公園, 宗猷寺, 岐阜県, 東山, 東山遊歩道, 東林山大雄寺, 法華寺 | Leave a comment

DAY 5 (1/5): CITY IN THE MOUNTAINS, Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山), Gifu Prefecture (岐阜県), Japan, 2018.05.29

Surrounded by mountains in the Gifu Prefecture, Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山) or simply Takayama (高山) is a delightful destination for all tourists who have make the effort coming to the central mountainous region of Honshu. Takayama serves well as the base for travelers to visit the surrounding attractions, from Kamikochi and the Japanese Alps to the east, to the gassho-zukuri villages of Shirakawa-go (白川郷) and Gokayama (五箇山) to the north. Takayama is best known for its morning market at Miyagawa River (宮川), high quality sake and world famous Hida beef, but the most remarkable thing for most visitors is how well the historic Sanmachi Suji District (三町筋) has been preserved. Wandering in the historic heart of Takayama makes us felt like going back in time to the Edo Period (1600-1868, 江戸時代), when the city was a wealthy and prosperous merchant city. On the other hand, a visit to the castle ruins at Shiroyama Park (城山公園) on the mountain next to the historical centre reminded us the city’s shogunate past in the Sengoku Period (1467-1568, 戦国時代).

We arrived at Takayama from Shirahone Onsen at around 12:30pm. Our hotel J-Hoppers Guesthouse was just a few minutes away from the railway station.

Our tatami room was simple and clean, with a window overlooking the city’s post office across the street.

Just a short walk from J-Hoppers brought us to Sanmachi Suji (三町筋), the historic district that most tourists linger when they come to Takayama. Most tourists wandered around Sannomachi Street, the atmospheric street flanked by old timber houses.

In the charming historic district, even the street gutter can provide a lovely picture.

One of the most enjoyable activities to wander around Sanmachi Suji District is to sample the diverse local snacks, from beef croquettes to mochi. The rice cracker of Senbeidou (手焼煎餅堂) on Sannomachi Street is also popular with tourists.

At Sanmachi Suji, one of the most popular shop we encountered was Ohnoya Paste Shop (大のや醸造). Ohnoya had been around in Takayama for the past 250 years selling soy sauce (醤油) and miso paste (味噌).

At Ohnoya, we bought a bag of aka miso (red miso 赤味噌), a bottle of yonen (4 years) shoyu, a soy sauce made from aka miso, and a bottle of kibiki shoyu, a special soy sauce made with a traditional recipe.

A poster on a shopfront reminded us the famous Takayama Matsuri or Takayama Festival. Held annually in spring and autumn, Takayama Festival (高山祭) is often considered one of Japan’s three most beautiful festivals.

During the Takayama Festival, the city’s splendid festival floats (yatai) would be paraded throughout the historic streets. Throughout the year, the floats are stored in special storehouses scattered across the old town.

On Sannomachi Street, we walked by the beautiful gate of Fujii Folk Museum, a small museum with exhibits of artefacts and local art pieces.

Before heading up to the Shiroyama Park (城山公園), we stopped by a sweet bun shop.

The sweet buns looked pretty and tasted delicious.

While wandering the historic centre, we passed by the interesting Takayama Shōwa-kan Museum (高山昭和館). Named as one of Takayama’s top attractions in Lonely Planet, the museum showcased objects dated back from the mid 1950’s to 1960’s Japan.

What looked like an antique shop across from Takayama Shōwa-kan Museum (高山昭和館) was in fact a hairdresser (バーバー文助) decorated in a vintage look.

On our way to Shiroyama Park (城山公園), we passed by another old miso shop (丸五味噌(醤油)屋).

After our walk up the Shiroyama Park and Higashiyama Walking Course (東山遊歩道), we finally reached the beautiful Miyagawa River (宮川).

The hotel staff at J-Hoppers recommended us to check out the 1200-year-old ginkgo tree (銀杏) at Kokubunji Temple.

The 37m tree is a designated natural treasure.

Hida Kokubunji Temple (飛騨国分寺) was originally built in 764 AD by Emperor Shoumu. Over the years, the structures had been reconstructed. The three-storey pagoda was rebuilt in 1821 to replace the earlier five-storey pagoda that was itself a replacement of the original seven-storey pagoda.

Together with the pagoda, the bell tower at Kokubunji Temple is also a fascinating old timber structure.

July 21, 2018 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Chubu 2018, Japanese Alps, Takayama | Tags: Alps, バーバー文助, cuisine, 飛騨, 飛騨国分寺, 高山, 高山祭, 赤味噌, Festival, float, food, Gassho, Gifu, guesthouse, Hida, Higashiyama, J-Hoppers, Japan, Japanese, Matsuri, miso, Ohnoya, paste, Sanmachi Suji, Sannomachi, sauce, soy, Takayama, yatai, 味噌, 大のや醸造, 岐阜県, 東山遊歩道, 三町筋 | Leave a comment

DAY 2 (2/4): HIGASHI-YAMA RESTAURANT, near Nakameguro (中目黒), Tokyo, Japan, 2017.06.15

After Ebisu, our next stop was Higashi-yama Restaurant in Nakameguro (中目黒). In a quiet residential street in Higashi-yama 15 minutes walk from Nakameguro Station, Higashi-yama Restaurant was well hidden from the street. We came across this restaurant from our online research. We were attracted by the minimalist food presentation and the atmospheric interior setting. We reserved a table for lunch through their website two weeks prior to our departure. After the traditional Kaiseki experience at Ueno Park the day before, we were hoping that Higashi-yama would offer us a contemporary interpretation of Japanese cuisine. “A detached house located in Higashi-yama, Meguro-ku, Tokyo, away from the clamor of the city, and be a place where people meet and discuss what matters most to them, a place where new communication is born.” According to the description on their website, the story of this tranquil spot in Tokyo’s Higashi-yama where people come and chat and enjoy modern Japanese food all began in 1998. Our experience of Higashi-yama began at a narrow stairway off the street.

A flight of steps led us away from a residential street up to a hidden courtyard.

Well hidden from the street, the entrance courtyard offers a serene buffer between the street and the restaurant. The courtyard served well to decant our souls of hastiness and calm down our hearts (as we were almost late for the booking).

The interior of the restaurant is simple and unpretentious, with traditional Japanese dark timber millwork in a bright and simple setting.

A tall shelf displaying wine and sake anchors one corner of the interior.

Wood is such an important material in Japanese culture, from table, chopsticks to chopstick holders.

The appetizer consisted of eight ingredients fresh to the season.

Both the taste and the beautiful presentation of the food matched with the overall ambience of the restaurant.

One of the main dish we ordered was the grilled snapper.

The other main we chose was the tempura seasonal ingredients.

After the tasty appetizers and main dishes, we were led by the staff downstairs via a beautiful and modern stair.

The water feature by the stairwell seems like a contemporary interpretation of a chōzubachi water basin in front of a zen tea house.

We were led to a comfortable sitting area for dessert.

Mocha pudding and mango ice-cream came went well with hot Japanese tea.

An interesting copper sculpture was mounted on the wall over our head.

Opposite to our sitting area, a staff was preparing tea and chatting with another customer by a high counter.

After dessert, we paid the bill and were led to exit the building through a copper door directly back to the street. Overall, Higashi-yama Restaurant offered us a fine experience, with good food to satisfy our taste-buds and a zen and minimalist environment to sooth our souls.

July 15, 2017 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Tokyo 2017, Tokyo | Tags: Architecture, cuisine, design, fish, food, fusion, Higashiyama, Japan, Japanese, Meguro, Nakameguro, restaurant, seafood, tempura, Tokyo | Leave a comment

DAY 3 (6/7): GINKAKUJI (銀閣寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.05

Modeled after Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion), Ginkakuji Temple (銀閣寺, Silver Pavilion) is probably the most popular Zen temple in Northern Higashiyama. Unlike Kinkakuji which was the cultural focus for Kyoto aristocrats, Ginkakuji was always the centre of cultural activities for the majority throughout history. As a Zen Buddhist temple, Ginkakuji was also named Jishō-ji (慈照寺). It was a focus of the local cultures, and influential in a number of traditional arts, including tea ceremony, flower arrangement, poetry, theatre, horticulture, and architectural design. Consisted of several temple buildings including the Silver Pavilion, a dry sand garden and a lush-green moss garden, Ginkakuji represents the grand finale at the northern end of the Philosopher’s Path. After Honenin Temple, we finished the remaining portion of the Philosopher’s Path and turned right onto Ginkakuji Sando (銀閣寺参道), the approaching route that led us to the famous Zen temple.

Beyond the main gate, the Ginkakuji Fence (銀閣寺垣) stood right in front of us. We turned right and walked towards the ticket office.

After getting our tickets, we immediately entered a small dry Zen garden. A few pine trees stood in magnificent gestures.

Everything in the dry Zen garden was carefully thought out and maintained.

Going through the Hoshokan Gate, we arrived at the main temple ground. Everything in the main garden centred at the Kinkyochi Pond (Mirror Pond).

Unlike Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion), the Ginkakuji (Silver Pavilion) was never painted silver in colour. The humble timber structure matched perfectly well with the natural surroundings.

As we began to stroll along the garden path, we immediately arrived at the unique sand garden. The first unique feature was the Kogetsudai (向月台, Moon Viewing Platform).

The path brought us around the Ginshadan (銀沙灘, Silver Beach) in front of Hondo (Main Hall).

The linear patterns of the Ginshadan (銀沙灘, Silver Beach) were carefully maintained.

The round edge of the Ginshadan (銀沙灘, Silver Beach) with Kogetsudai (向月台) at the background.

A moss-covered rock in the Kinkyochi Pond (Mirror Pond) stood like a sculpture in the water.

Moss covered landscape around the tranquil Kinkyochi Pond (Mirror Pond).

The path continued to a peaceful waterfall known as Sengetsusen Waterfall (洗月泉, Moon Cleansing Waterfall).

The Sengetsusen waterfall (洗月泉) had become a fountain of wishes, where visitors would throw coins onto the stone in the water to make wishes.

Leaving the Togudo Hall (東求堂) and Hondo behind, the path began to climb up gently onto the hill behind the temple.

The undulating ground of the slope was covered with lush-green moss.

A good mix of vegetation on the hill, including maples and bamboo.

The path led us to a corner at the temple ground where the Ochanoi (Well for Tea Ceremony) was located.

On the hill, the view back down towards the temple buildings and the Kyoto scenery beyond was spectacular.

Looking down to the Ginshadan, the linear patterns of the Silver Beach looked really neat.

The path followed the topography led us gradually downhill back to the level of Kinkyochi Pond. Along the way, we passed by the beautiful slopes covered with green moss.

On our way out of Ginkakuji, we had a last peek at the Silver Pavilion beyond the autumn maples and the beautiful moss garden.

***

February 9, 2017 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kyoto and Nara 2016, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: Architecture, Buddhism, Buddhist, 銀閣寺, 銀閣寺垣, fence, garden, Ginkakuji, Higashiyama, Hondo, Japan, Jishoji, Kyoto, moss, paviion, pavilion, sand, silver, Temple, Togudo, zen, 慈照寺, 京都 | Leave a comment

DAY 3 (5/7): HONENIN (法然院), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.05

We decided to make a detour to visit Honenin Temple (法然院) when we about to reach the northern end of the Philosopher’s Path. Built in 1680 to commemorate 12th century Buddhist priest Honen, the founder of Pure Land Sect of Buddhism (浄土真宗, Jodo-shin-shu), Honenin is a modest and quiet complex hidden in the forested mountain just ten minutes walk away from the much popular Ginkakuji Temple (銀閣寺). Although the Main Hall would only open two times a year at the first week of either April or November, we still wanted to check out the tranquil temple ground and its famous thatched entrance hut.

Honenin Temple was only a few minute walk off the Philosopher’s Path.

The temple complex of Honenin was hidden beyond a flight of steps up a forested slope.

We came a little late to see the entrance path of Honenin Temple fully covered by red autumn leaves.

South of the Honenin Temple was a tranquil graveyard.

Because of its peaceful setting, many well known individuals chose to be buried here, including painter Heihachiro Fukuda (福田平八郎), economist Hajime Kawakami (河上肇), philosopher Shuzo Kuki (九鬼周造), etc. But the grave that we wanted to pay respect to was writer and scholar Junichiro Tanizaki (谷崎潤一郎).

There were hundreds of tombs in the graveyard and there was no one around that we could ask. We searched online and find a photograph of Junichiro Tanizaki’s tombstone. Based on that photo, we figured it could be situated at the back row.

After a few minutes of searching we finally found the tomb of Junichiro Tanizaki and his wife. One of the most influential Japanese author in the 20th century, Junichiro Tanizaki ‘s In Praise of Shadows(陰翳礼讃, In’ei Raisan) is a great essay for anyone who is interested to understand the concept of Japanese aesthetics. It’s a homage to the dark timber structures and dimly lit interior of traditional Japanese architecture.

After a detour to the graveyard, we finally approached the thatched entrance hut of Honenin Temple.

Once inside the gate, we were greeted by a pair of Byakusadan or mount of conceptualized water that were meant to purify one’s mind.

Most of the buildings were not open for visitors. We spent a few minutes to stroll around the central court.

We couldn’t admire the paintings inside the buildings. This was the only painting we saw without entering.

A beautiful 9-level stone pagoda in autumn setting.

Outside the thatched entrance gate stood a woodland with autumn colours.

***

February 8, 2017 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kyoto and Nara 2016, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: Buddhism, Byakusadan, garden, Ginkakuji, Higashiyama, Honen, Honenin, Japan, Kyoto, moss, Philosopher's Path, Pure Land Sect, zen, 法然院, 浄土真宗 | Leave a comment

DAY 3 (4/7): PHILOSOPHER’S PATH (哲学の道), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.05

In the early 20th century, philosophy professor Kitaro Nishida (西田幾多郎) walked along the Shishigatani Canal daily to his office at Kyoto University. Specialized in bridging philosophies of the East and West, Kitaro Nishida considered his daily commute as a way of Zen meditation. In honor of this famous Japanese philosopher, this canal-side path is named as Tetsugaku no michi (哲学の道) or the Philosopher’s Path today. This tranquil stone path runs north-south, linking a number of peaceful neighborhoods and temple grounds, from the neighborhood of Nanzenji Temple (南禅寺) to Ginkakuji Temple (銀閣寺) at the northern end. In spring, the cherry-lined path is a highly popular venue for hanami or cherry blossom viewing events. In autumn, the maples transformed the otherwise lush-green path into a colourful passage. Occasionally lined with cafes, shops, restaurants and galleries, the Philosopher’s Path offers the best way for travelers like us to explore the Northern Higashiyama on foot.

After our visit at Nanzenji, we followed street signage, passed by the well known Eikando Temple (永観堂) before reaching the starting point of the Philosopher’s Path. We walked rather slowly and spent over an hour on the 2km path.

We passed by the gate of Eikando Temple (永観堂) enroute to the Philosopher’s Path. Eikando Temple is another popular spot for viewing of autumn foliage.

Despite online information stated that the autumn foliage at Eikando Temple (永観堂) had well passed its peak, there were still a number of beautiful maple trees in the temple’s forecourt.

We wandered in the forecourt of Eikando Temple (永観堂) for a bit but decided to move on to the Philosopher’s Path. We came to Kyoto a week too late for the peak autumn foliage at Eikando, Shinshogokurakuji (真如堂) and Konkaikomyoji (金戒光明寺) in this area, so we rather saved these till next time.

The residential street with a vista of the Higashiyama Mountains led us to the starting point of the Philosopher’s Path.

Some kind of red berries by the street added a bit of Christmas mood to our stroll.

Soon we reached the starting point of the Philosopher’s Path right by the Shishigatani Canal. Both the Shishigatani Canal and the aqueduct in Nanzenji Temple belong to the Lake Biwa Canal system that brings fresh water from Lake Biwa to Kyoto.

The beginning portion of the Philosopher’s Path is a tree lined pathway along the Shishigatani Canal.

An old abandoned wagon by the path was used as a cozy home for several cats.

One of the cats was sunbathing near the wagon.

Autumn leaves in a stone basin by the path.

Despite autumn was almost over, the vivid foliage was still impressive at many spots.

The Shishigatani Canal provided perfect reflection of the peaceful scenery.

The air was cool and crisp. Under the mid-morning sun we walked slowly along the waterside stone path towards Ginkakuji Temple.

Water channels were everywhere, and some were even lifted up bridging over the Shishigatani Canal.

The autumn palette made everything seemed so lovely.

For most of the walk we were passing through sleepy residential neighborhoods. While most houses looked traditional Japanese, this round one we passed by looked totally out of this world to us.

After passing by several cafes and eateries, we finally decided to stop by a traditional rice cake shop.

We ordered mochi, chestnut rice cake, black-bean tea and amazake(甘酒), a type of traditional sweet drink made with fermented rice.

Just as we left the Philosopher’s Path to make a detour to the Honenin (法然院), we passed by a private home with a healthy orange tree.

***

February 7, 2017 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kyoto and Nara 2016, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: autumn, canal, cat, colours, Eikando, fall, foliage, Ginkakuji, Higashiyama, Honenin, Japan, Kyoto, Lake Biwa Canal, maples, Nanzenji, Nishida Kitaro, path, Philosopher, Shishigatani, Tetsugaku no michi, 哲学の道, 永観堂, 法然院, 京都 | Leave a comment

DAY 3 (3/7): NANZENIN (南禅院) & TENJUAN (天授庵), Nanzenji (南禅寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.05

There are about a dozen of sub-temples in the Nanzenji compound. After visiting the Hojo, we headed back to the Suiro-kaku Aqueduct. A flight of steps behind the aqueduct led us to the upper platform of Nanzenji. There we arrived at the entrance of Nanzenin (南禅院), one of the sub-temples of Nanzenji with a tranquil pond garden surrounded by lush-green forest. Visitors were not allowed to enter the building, but we were able to tour the garden. Centered at a small water pond, Nanzenin’s garden was designed in Chisen Kaiyu, or the pond strolling style. A stone path led us around the pond. Left of the pond, there was a elegant pavilion inside an enclosure wall. It was the royal mausoleum of Emperor Kameyama (亀山天皇), the founding emperor of Nanzenji who converted his retirement villa into a Zen Buddhist temple in the 13th century. According to a 15th century account, cherry trees from Yoshino, reed plants from Nanba, and maple trees from Tatsuta were transplanted, and frogs from Ide were released for the making of the garden. The autumn foliage had just past its peak. Most of the vivid red leaves had fallen into the pond, or scattered on the moss covered rocks around the pond.

The temple hall of Nanzenin (南禅院) was not open to the public.

The water pond in Nanzenin’s garden was created in a heart shape.

Much of the red leaves around the pond had fallen into the water.

A sense of deep autumn on the moss-covered ground.

Most of the stone path was damp and peaceful.

The mausoleum of Emperor Kameyama (亀山天皇) elegantly stood at the left side of the pond.

Moss covered a large area of the ground around the pond.

Outside Nanzenin, the remaining autumn foliage, dark timber structures and blue-grey roof tiles evoked a sense of solitude and serenity for the otherwise historical setting.

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Lastly we came to Tenjuan Temple (天授庵), another sub-temple of Nanzenji dedicated to the Zen master who served Emperor Kameyama. Constructed in 1337, Tenjuan contained both a dry rock garden and a wet pond garden. We stepped into the complex of Tenjuan as the sun had climbed above the Higashiyama Mountains (Eastern Mountains), casting a touch of warmth into the gardens. Similar to Nanzenin, we were not allowed to enter the building interior. Instead, the main focus was again the two gardens. In the dry rock garden, moss seemed grew naturally around stepping stones, creating a romantic ground cover on the gravel pool. We sat at the veranda for a few minutes to admire the dry landscape. At the back, there was the Chisen Kaiyu or pond strolling garden. Just like the garden at Nanzenin, we circled the pond at Tenjuan. The stroll was quite interesting, especially at the part walking on the zigzag stepping stones across the water. A school of koi or nishikigoi fish (錦鯉) swam freely in the pond. When we stopped at the shore, the fish would swim over and gather right in front of us, perhaps hoping that we might feed them? It was almost 10am by the time we finished with Tenjuan. We decided to leave the compound of Nanzenji and found our way to the Philosopher’s Path.

We bought our admission tickets at the entrance courtyard of Tenjuan (天授庵). The main building was not open to the public. We followed a side path into the gardens at the back to start our visit.