FLOWERS OF KYOTO & DENIM OF OSAKA, Japan
In Downtown Kyoto, behind the commercial blocks on Karasuma-dori (烏丸通り) stands a hexagonal temple structure. Erected long before the surrounding buildings, Chōhō-ji (頂法寺), which commonly known as Rokkaku-dō (六角堂) – the Hexagonal Hall, was hidden from plain sight along the main street. We walked by the area several times but didn’t notice its presence until the morning when we returned from Higashiyama. Rokkaku-dō is loved by the locals not only for its 800-years of history, but also for the heritage of Ikebana or kadō (華道), the traditional art of flower arrangement dated back for centuries. In 538 AD, Buddhism was introduced into Japan. Instead of causally placing flowers in a vase upon the Buddhist altar, the Japanese took one step further by giving series considerations on the floral arrangement. Early flower arrangement emerged from an effort to place offering flowers in a proper and upright position. Throughout centuries, it further developed into an elegant way of living, an attitude attentive to details, and had become one of the three classical arts of Japan. Ikenobō (池坊), the biggest and oldest school of ikebana, is based at Rokkaku-dō since the 15th century. Ikenobō began when the 12th abbot of the temple created a method of flower arrangement as an offering to Kannon, the goddess of mercy at the temple. That’s why Rokkaku-dō is considered as the birthplace of Ikebana. We heard there is also the Ikebana Museum and Ikenobo Headquarters nearby, but we just spent time wandering in the temple garden and taking in the spiritual ambience that nurtures the development of a traditional art.
In the afternoon, we took a break from temples and shrines by hopping on a train to Osaka. We specifically wanted to check out the denim stores of the Osaka Five. In the postwar years, American influence was evident in many aspects in Japanese life, from food to film, music to fashion. Against the economic boom in the 1970’s and 1980’s, the pursuit of a rebellious youth and spirit of Americana was popular in Japan. As a symbol of freedom and rebellion since the days of James Dean, high quality jeans from America found a growing demand in Japan. However, high quality denim products gradually became rare in America since 1970’s when the denim industry shifted to mass production on projectile looms. Despite of the gradual drop of quality, a small group of denim enthusiasts continued to bring high quality denim into Japan by introducing vintage denim from America. And when vintage became too expensive and rare, they decided to reinvent heirloom denim in Japan that combined the traditions of American denim with local dyeing and weaving techniques and attention to details. Known as the Osaka Five, namely Studio d’Artisan, Full Count, Warehouse & Co, Denime, and Evisu, this small group of enthusiasts branched out into five small companies based in Osaka. Not only did they transformed the denim scene for Japan, but also reintroduce their take on selvedge denim to the world. During our time in Osaka, We ended up spending most of the time at Studio d’Artisan in Minamihorie (南堀江), and a nearby store that carried Full Count. By the time we reached Warehouse & Co, shops were beginning to close their doors due to the New Year’s holiday.
Day 9 – CHURCH OF LIGHT, Osaka (大阪市), Japan
If there was one architect that redefined Japanese architecture during the 1990s it would be Tadao Ando. And if there was one project that best exemplified the essence of Ando’s architecture it would be Ibaraki Kasugaoka Church, or the Church of Light. Located 25km northeast of Osaka, Ando’s Church of Light is a pilgrim destination in the world of architects and designers. The precise use of natural light, minimalist layout, smooth pour in-situ concrete walls, modular spatial proportions, and zenist interplay of void and solid converges into an architectural masterpiece with a volume no bigger than a small house.
The Church of Light opens only on specific days of the week, usually on Sunday but sometimes also Wednesday and Saturday. Visiting the church requires advanced reservation online. It was about 20 minutes of train ride from Osaka Station to Ibaraki, a residential neighborhood in the outskirt of Osaka. From Ibaraki station, it was another short local bus ride to reach the closest bus stop to the Church of Light. It was a peaceful Sunday when we visited, we found our way to the main entrance of the church complex, which was consisted of the Church of Light and the Sunday School, a latter addition to the complex also designed by Ando. We registered with the staff at the reception of the Sunday School, and was then led into the famous Church of Light. Once inside, we had all the time we needed to examine the architecture, take photos, and take in the spiritual atmosphere.
We stayed at the church for over an hour, until it was time for us to return to Osaka Tennoji Station, where we would take the Haruka Express for the Kansai Airport. Nine days of Osaka, Kobe, and the spiritual Kumano Kodo gave us a refreshing spring break, with joyful memories from the splendid cherry blossoms, spiritual scenery, fantastic seafood, to poetic architecture.
Osaka Station, with its recently added canopy.
We got off the local bus at the community park at Ibaraki, where the Church of Light was just around the corner.
The church complex with the Sunday School on the left and Church of Light on the right, both designed by Tadao Ando.
Entrance pathway to the church.
Slit windows and architectural concrete are the common design language in Ando’s works.
Interior of the Sunday School.
Overall interior view of the Church of Light.
The iconic slit opening of cruciform in the Church of Light.
The large pipe organ at the back of the church.
Indirect natural light is introduced into the space through an opening that is created by a slant wall at a 15 degree angle.
Side view of the cruciform opening at the altar.
Glazed wall meeting concrete wall at the church entrance.
The curved vestibule connecting the Sunday School and Church of Light.
A small outdoor gathering space between the school and the church, occupied by a man in suit playing badminton with a young lady. It was lovely to see how people making use of the space and we were both touched by this scene, for some reasons.
After a thorough visit to the Church of Light and a relaxing stroll in the laid back neighbourhood of Ibaraki, we returned to the Osaka Station. The station was busy and filled with people but somehow everything remained in good order.
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Read other posts on 2015 Kansai…
Day 1.0 – Kansai Japan 2015
Day 1.1 – Hanami, Mount Yoshino
Day 1.2 – Feast under the Shades of Sakura, Mount Yoshiko
Day 2 – A Day in Kobe
Day 3 – A Day in Central Osaka
Day 4 – Tanabe – Prelude of the Kumano Kodo
Day 5.1 – Takijiri to Takahara, Kumano Kodo
Day 5.2 – Takahara to Tsugizakura , Kumano Kodo
Day 5.3 – Minshuku Tsugizakura, Kumano Kodo
Day 6.1 – Tsugizakura to Mikoshi-Toge Pass, Kumano Kodo
Day 6.2 – Mikoshi-Toge Pass to Hongu Taisha, Kumano Kodo
Day 6.3 – Kumano Hongu Taisha to Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.1 – Ryokan Adumaya, Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.2 – Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.3 – Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.4 – Wataze Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 8.1 – Kumano Nachi Taisha, Kumano Kodo
Day 8.2 – Kii Katsuura, Kumano Kodo
Day 9 – Church of Light, Osaka
DAY 3 – A DAY IN CENTRAL OSAKA, Osaka (大阪市), Japan
Day 3 was our only full day in Osaka (大阪). Started from our hotel in Shinsaibashi (心斎橋), we explored the nearby neighborhoods on foot, including Dotonbori (道頓堀), Minamisenba (南船場), and Namba (難波). 
Daimaru is a well known Japanese department store. The store in Shinsaibashi has been the landmark of the area since 1931. The building was designed by American architect William Merell Vories, with a mix of Art Deco and Neo-Gothic style. The food hall at the basement level is particularly a wonder to explore. 
Linking two of the city’s largest shopping districts, Umeda and Namba, is a 600m long covered shopping arcade, Shinsaibashi Suji. In fact, covered arcades can be found in many cities and towns in Kansai.
Known for its eccentric nightlife and food scene, Dotonbori is one of the most famous tourist attractions in Osaka. Restaurants, bars, multi-storey billboards and bustling tourist shops lined up along Dotonbori-gawa Canal. The billboard of an athlete crossing the finishing line for Glico (a popular confectionery company) is one of the most iconic feature of Dotonbori. 
One can find many striking billboards along Dotonbori-gawa Canal, such as this gigantic Ferris wheel. This Ferris wheel is an eye-catching landmark of a duty-free shop. 
Osaka is a heaven for street food lovers. Takoyaki (grilled batter with diced octopus filling) is one of the most popular street food among all. There are always a queue for the make-to-order takoyaki.
There are many variation to the takoyaki recipes but the main ingredients are egg batter and diced octopus. 
North of Shinsaibashi lies the area of Minamisenba (南船場), a former hotspot for fabric wholesaling. Since the decline of the fabric business in 1990s, many of the old office buildings and storage facilities had been converted into trendy shops, design studios and new offices. At the heart of Minamisenba is Organic Building. Designed by Italian architect Gaetano Pesce in 1993, Organic Building soon became the icon of the area. It was an early envisioning of a vertical living wall. The bright red facade is “cladded” with over 80 native plants to Japan.
Perhaps, we were attracted by the simplicity of the storefront design. We walked into this little restaurant at a street corner in Minamisemb for a bowl of comforting beef udon. The interior decor is elegantly simple with a large wooden communal table and an open kitchen.
It is common to find high-carbohydrate set meal on a menu in Osaka such as a combination of udon/ramen and a bowl of rice. 
A beautiful wall painting in Minamisemba. 
One of the most successful renewal projects in Minamisemba is the conversion of the former Association of Agricultural and Forestry into the trendy hub of designers, artists and bookstores. Many of the old architectural features from the 1930s remains.
At Minamisemba, we walked past a shrine complex called Namba Shrine. Attracted by the full blossoms of cherry and plum trees, we decided to go in and check out the shrine. 
Plum (ume) blossoms at Namba Shrine.
The cherry blossoms at Namba Shrine was at its peak.
South of the busy Namba Railway Station lies a unique retail complex, the Namba Park. Designed by American architect Jon Jerde and completed in 2009, the Namba Park shopping and office complex was built at the site of the former Osaka Stadium. The development consists of a 30-storey office tower and a 8-level shopping mall. The shopping mall is designed as an urban oasis with extensive roof gardens in the midst of a bustling city. 
Much of the roof surfaces of the complex are designed as landscaping and dining terraces. 
The exterior scenic lifts with a glass roof take visitors to each shopping levels, topped with a Surrealist white blob.
The winding outdoor mall of Namba Park resembles a natural canyon with hanging terraces and layers of stones.
* * *
Read other posts on 2015 Kansai…
Day 1.0 – Kansai Japan 2015
Day 1.1 – Hanami, Mount Yoshino
Day 1.2 – Feast under the Shades of Sakura, Mount Yoshiko
Day 2 – A Day in Kobe
Day 3 – A Day in Central Osaka
Day 4 – Tanabe – Prelude of the Kumano Kodo
Day 5.1 – Takijiri to Takahara, Kumano Kodo
Day 5.2 – Takahara to Tsugizakura , Kumano Kodo
Day 5.3 – Minshuku Tsugizakura, Kumano Kodo
Day 6.1 – Tsugizakura to Mikoshi-Toge Pass, Kumano Kodo
Day 6.2 – Mikoshi-Toge Pass to Hongu Taisha, Kumano Kodo
Day 6.3 – Kumano Hongu Taisha to Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.1 – Ryokan Adumaya, Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.2 – Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.3 – Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.4 – Wataze Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 8.1 – Kumano Nachi Taisha, Kumano Kodo
Day 8.2 – Kii Katsuura, Kumano Kodo
Day 9 – Church of Light, Osaka
DAY 1 – HANAMI, Mount Yoshino (吉野山) 1 of 2, Japan
After some light sleep on a 4-hour red-eye flight, we landed at Kansai International Airport at 6:30am on a Saturday morning. Our vacation officially kicked off. As we stepped out of the plane, we took a deep breath of the cool and refreshing air which reminded us of a familiar smell of the North American spring. At the airport, it took us over an hour dealing with all the business related to train passes (Haruka & ICOCA, JR West Wide Area Pass, and Hanshin Tourist Pass). At last, we hopped onto a Haruka Express and headed towards Tennoji Station in Osaka. A promising weather forecast for the afternoon prompted us to make up our mind on our first destination of the trip – a leisure stroll among the famous Mount Yoshino’s (吉野山) cherry blossoms. After dropping off our luggage at our hotel, we walked over to Abenobashi Station hoping to purchase tickets for a limited express train to Yoshino. Unfortunately, the staff of Kintetsu, the private corporation that runs exclusive train services to Yoshino, told us that all the morning limited express train tickets for the entire weekend had been sold out. Not a surprise to us as hanami (flower viewing) is very popular among the locals. We had no choice but to take the slower express train departing in 20 minutes. We rushed into a convenient store in the station and grabbed several onigiri (seaweed wrapped rice balls with a variety of salty fillings) and a can of hot coffee. The train ride took about 1 hour and 45 minutes. We arrived at Yoshino Station at around 12:30pm. The station and its forecourt were packed with visitors and food vendors. Two options laid in front of us, either queuing for the short cable car ride or stepping on the paved path that meandered all the way from Shimo Senbon section (Lower Thousand Trees) at the base, to Naka Senbon (Mid Thousand Trees), and up to Kami Senbon (Upper Thousand Trees) and Oku Senbon (Top Thousand Trees) near the top. We chose to walk. Along the way, cherry blossoms were everywhere, both along the footpath or upon mountain slopes across the valley. Despite the peak of blossoms were already over by about a week at Shimo Senbon and Naka Senbon, thanks to the cooler micro-climate, the upper sections of Kami Senbon and Oku Senbon were still at their peak. Souvenir shops, food vendors, restaurants, and ryokan, along with religious shrines and Buddhist temples lined up the uphill route. This unique combination of cherry blossoms, historical temples, and handmade local delicacies made Mount Yoshino a worthy destination inscribed on UNESCO World Heritage List. 
Loads of visitors arrived at Yoshino Station from cities all over Kansai. 
Mount Yoshino has the country’s oldest surviving aerial lift. 
After a night of rain, much of the remaining cherry blossoms at Shimo Senbon (Lower Thousand Trees) had fallen. 
Some cherry blossoms still managed to cling onto the branches at Shimo Senbon (Lower Thousand Trees). 
The gateway signified the entrance into Shimo Senbon’s main street, where vendors lined up along the way uphill. 
Kinpusenji Temple contains Japan’s second largest timber structure. We were fortunate to enter the main hall and have a glimpse of the three gigantic Zao gongen statues. 
Clear sky finally arrived at about 3pm. 
As we approached Kami Senbon (Upper Thousand Trees), more lookouts allowed visitors to enjoy the panoramic views of cherry blossoms across the valley. 
The beauty of Mount Yoshino came from the multi-layering of blossom colours. 
Local Japanese, be it a group of family members, a couple or a solo visitor, usually take their time sitting under the cherry blossom to eat, drink and chat. 
A photographer set up a platform next to a tea pavilion offering free photo shooting for visitors at the top of the Hami Sendon section. When posing, most of the locals invariably made a “V” sign with their fingers. 
The owner of a tea house set up an outdoor patio in an open area where visitors could dine under tree canopies. This also turned out to be a perfect lookout for an unobstructed view towards the valley. All visitors were required to take off their shoes before stepping onto the patio’s bamboo mat. 
There were many small wooden pavilions designed as resting areas on Mount Yoshino. They were thoughtfully designed with low walls and large openings that serve like picture frames, capturing the beauty of mountainous landscape. 
There were many street vendors selling beverage and snack but this one was the most special among all. The vendor had his little stall set up at an lookout point. The vendor furnished the open area with bright red chairs, floor mats and paper umbrella. We bought a sakura flavored ice-cream and sat down to rest a bit. 
Sun break. Finally, near sunset.
* * *
Read other posts on 2015 Kansai…
Day 1.0 – Kansai Japan 2015
Day 1.1 – Hanami, Mount Yoshino
Day 1.2 – Feast under the Shades of Sakura, Mount Yoshiko
Day 2 – A Day in Kobe
Day 3 – A Day in Central Osaka
Day 4 – Tanabe – Prelude of the Kumano Kodo
Day 5.1 – Takijiri to Takahara, Kumano Kodo
Day 5.2 – Takahara to Tsugizakura , Kumano Kodo
Day 5.3 – Minshuku Tsugizakura, Kumano Kodo
Day 6.1 – Tsugizakura to Mikoshi-Toge Pass, Kumano Kodo
Day 6.2 – Mikoshi-Toge Pass to Hongu Taisha, Kumano Kodo
Day 6.3 – Kumano Hongu Taisha to Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.1 – Ryokan Adumaya, Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.2 – Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.3 – Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.4 – Wataze Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 8.1 – Kumano Nachi Taisha, Kumano Kodo
Day 8.2 – Kii Katsuura, Kumano Kodo
Day 9 – Church of Light, Osaka
Blue Lapis Road 