Red is the warmest colour, especially in Lunar New Year when festive decorations appear all over the city. As the 15th day of the first month has passed, celebrations of this year’s Lunar New Year has come to a closure. From facade lights on commercial towers, art installations, shop windows, fai chun calligraphy to red lanterns, all kinds of New Year decorations are about to come down. The warm and festive atmosphere will soon recede and everything will return to normal. Speaking of festive spectacles, we have made an effort this year to watch the Lunar New Year’s fireworks at the waterfront, something that we haven’t done for ages. After a 4-year dormancy, the decades-long tradition of Lunar New Year Fireworks Display over the Victoria Harbour has resumed this year. As usual, the annual extravaganza started at 8pm on the second day of the Lunar New Year. At a little over an hour before the show, we arrived at Wan Chai waterfront and picked a spot among the crowds. Standing by the balustrade reminded me of my childhood, when watching the Lunar New Year fireworks was a highly anticipated event. At a time when traditions and collective memories are fading fast in Hong Kong, anything that dates back to four decades ago is hard to come by. I can hardly remember the fireworks we saw that day, or the ones in the past. Perhaps we were not too interested in the actual patterns and colours of the fireworks. What we valued the most was at that particular moment, we chose to stand by the waterfront with the rest the crowd to enjoy a urban spectacle that happened once a year.
Every Lunar New Year, red lanterns and other light decorations lit up the front facade of Peninsula Hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui. [2021.02]Public art related to the zodiac sign of a particular year, which could be one of the twelve animals: rat, ox, tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse, goat, monkey, rooster, dog and pig, would spring up across the city, such as this tiger display in Lee Gardens luxury shopping district. [2022.01]The atrium of Central’s PMQ is also a popular spot for New Year art installation, such as these inflated rabbits. [2023.01]This year, PMQ was home to an elegant dragon art installation made of ropes. [2024.02]Plaza of the former police headquarters Tai Kwun is also a popular spot for festive displays, especially the light show during Lunar New Year. [2024.02]Shop windows with New Year display would add another level of festive atmosphere to the neighborhood. [2022.01]Even old shops selling red New Year products would add a festive touch to the concrete streetscape. [2022.01]Just before Lunar New Year, a few elderly calligraphers would gather at Ladder Street to sell fai chun calligraphy decorations. [2021.01]The fai chun on display along Ladder Street would dramatically enhance the immediate urban landscape. [2021.01]To watch this year’s New Year fireworks, we picked a relatively less crowded section of Wan Chai waterfront. [2024.02]Weather was fine and the air was clear for fireworks display. [2024.02]It was a pleasure to watch fireworks in person. [2024.02]It has been four years since the last Lunar New Year fireworks lit up the Victoria Harbour. [2024.02]Festive colours like red, gold, green and purple are common for New Year fireworks. [2024.02]Fired from boats, the firework Lulit up the water of Victoria Harbour. [2024.02]Lunar New Year fireworks over Victoria Harbour. [2024.02]
It is common to host gatherings at home during Lunar New Year. To welcome families and friends, a Goodie Box, or Chuen Hup (全盒) is essential. Usually filled with candies and festive goodies, the tradition of Goodie Box could be traced to the Ming Dynasty (1368 – 1644). Different generations and regions have their own custom on what goes into the box. When we were young, Goodie Boxes in Hong Kong were usually circular lacquerwares, mainly red and black in colour. They were often filled with sugar coated dried fruits, melon seeds, Sugus candies, chocolate coins, fried dumplings, sesame cookies, etc. As lacquerware became more expensive, plastic boxes have become a popular alternative in recent years. To revive the Goodie Box tradition at home, we took on the quest to find a Goodie Box that could better represent the heritage of Hong Kong than the contemporary plastic boxes.
In a fine afternoon of 2021, after picking several calligraphy fai chun (揮春) from “Uncle Tim”, we crossed the Harbour to Kowloon Bay and ventured into an industrial building to look for Yuet Tung China Works (粵東磁廠), Hong Kong’s last stronghold of hand-painted Cantonese porcelain (廣彩). Established in 1928, Yuet Tung was once the largest porcelain maker in the city. In its heyday, the company was home to 300 craftsmen, exporting porcelain tablewares and vases all over the world, including Japan, Europe, and North America. Since 1970’s, sales of Cantonese porcelain significantly declined due to rising concerns on lead and other heavy metals in painted ceramics. Today, only a handful of craftsmen left in the industry, though there seems to be a small revival in recent years as Cantonese porcelain has been successfully promoted as a unique cultural heritage, and some fine pieces have made their way into museums and design shops. Finding porcelain items at Yuet Tung was like treasure hunting in a cramped antique shop. Tableware of different sizes and styles were piled up on shelving from floor to ceiling. We had to be patient, attentive and somewhat lucky in order to encounter the items we desired. At the same time, we needed to stay vigilant to watch where we stepped our foot and rested our elbow in the cramped aisles. At the end, the owner came to assist us on finding a ceramic Goodie Box that suited our purpose.
Choosing snacks to fill up the box is much simpler, but still requires effort and time to pick them up from different shops. Despite all the troubles, getting the Goodie Box ready and filling our counter and fridge with festive food are definitely something that we always look forward to every year.
Traditional porcelain tablewares from Yuet Tung fit perfectly with the old-school radish and water chestnut cakes. [2021.02]Wandering in Yuet Tung China Works requires patience and caution. [2021.02]An old craftsman painting traditional illustrations on a cup in Yuet Tung, Kowloon Bay. [2021.02]Apart from tablewares, vases and table decorations are also available at Yuet Tung. [2021.02]Many vases at Yuet Tung proved to be too vivid in colours for our taste, but we still greatly appreciate their effort to pass down the skills to younger generation. [2021.02]We usually get our goodies at some of the traditional shops in Sheung Wan (上環). [2022.01]On one occasion, we made it all the way to “Luk Kam Kee King of Melon Seeds” (陸金記瓜子大王) in Tsuen Wan (荃灣), who has been around since 1951. [2023.01]Today, Luk Kam Kee is said to be the city’s only shop that offer locally roasted melon seeds. [2023.01]For fried snacks like Kok Chai (角仔, Mini Peanut Puffs), Sesame Cookie Balls (笑口棗), Taro Balls (芋蝦), Tea Snacks (茶泡), etc., we often go to Chan Yee Jai (陳意齋) near our home. [2024.02]For traditional cakes like Radish Cake (蘿蔔糕), Taro Cake (芋頭糕), and Sticky Rice Cake (年糕), we usually purchase from a different source every year, such as farmer’s market and old dessert shop. [2024.02]This year, we bought from Lan Yuen Chee Koon (蘭苑饎館), a traditional dessert and herbal tea shop in Prince Edward (太子), and Yau Ley (有利), a seafood restaurant operated by former boat people in High Island (糧船灣) of Sai Kung. [2024.02]Two years ago, we got our radish cake from Ma Po Po (馬寶寶), a farmer’s market and community that ceased to exist due to urban redevelopment of Ma Shi Po Village (馬屎埔). [2021.02]For New Year’s dinner, traditional roast pork and steam chicken are also quite popular. [2024.02]Among all roast meat, Roast Whole Suckling Pig (原隻乳豬) is the most popular during Lunar New Year. [2024.02]Around the time of Lunar New Year, we would also get Cured Sausage or Lap Cheong (臘腸), and Jinhua ham (金華火腿). [2021.02] With a workshop hidden in an industrial building in Sai Ying Pun (西營盤), the 76-year Kam Cheung Hoo (錦祥號) is one of the last cured sausage manufacturers in Hong Kong. [2021.02]In the same area as Kam Cheung Ho, the 71-year Wo Hing (和興臘味家) was another popular place near our home to get locally made cured sausages. [2020.12]Unfortunately, Wo Hing closed down last autumn. [2020.12]Every time we passed by Dried Seafood Street, we would often stunned by the dramatic wall of cured sausages in Yue Wo Hop Kee (裕和合記). [2022.01]Apart from sausages, cured ducks and Jinhua ham are popular in Lunar New Year holiday. [2022.01]
Lunar New Year is celebrated by many cultures worldwide. In Hong Kong, Lunar New Year is based on the Chinese lunisolar calendar (陰陽曆), a traditional system that incorporates lunar and solar calendars. In the past decade, we have always celebrated the festival according to traditions that we were brought up with. Apart from tasting different kinds of New Year cakes and goodies, and visiting New Year Fairs around the city, we would always decorate our little home with auspicious flowers such as Gladiolus (劍蘭), Narcissus (水仙), Lily (百合) and Peach blossoms (桃花). While we select flowers based on appearance and fragrance, many others pick flowers according to their symbolic meanings for prosperity and good fortune. Not only do the flowers enliven the ambience of our apartment, they also reconnect us with our distant childhood memories, in which colourful flowers were essential to the festive setting and atmosphere of people’s homes. Going to a New Year Fair (年宵) before New Year’s Day is a popular activity for many, including us. Every year, we would go to the New Year’s Fair in Victoria Park (維多利亞公園), and Fa Hui Flower Market (花墟) to pick up our New Year flowers. This year, on top of the usual places, we have also made a special trip to Shun Sum Yuen (信芯園農莊), a flower farm in rural Yuen Long (元朗). Seeing the actual flowers in lush green fields made us appreciate the farmers’ hard work, and admire the natural vitality and beauty of the local species, which might appear ordinary when placed alongside other exotic plants in a florist. Picking flowers to brighten our home works perfectly well to prepare our mood for Lunar New Year, and has become an essential ritual that we always look forward to.
After four years of pandemic, the New Year Fair at Victoria Park has finally regain its former extent. [2024.02]Many visitors go to the New Year Fair to check out auspicious flowers. [2024.02]Apart from Victoria Park, we would sometimes venture out to Kowloon (九龍) and New Territories (新界) to check out fairs in other neighborhoods. [2019.02]The New Year Fair in Yuen Long (元朗) is the biggest in the New Territories (新界). [2019.02]Fa Hui Flower Market (花墟) in Prince Edward (太子) is a pilgrimage site for all anthophiles in Hong Kong. Several city blocks in the area are lined with florists and plant shops, making it the largest flower market in Hong Kong. Every year when Lunar New Year approaches, streets at Fa Hui would be pedestrianized to welcome the shopping crowds. [2021.01]Amazing Orchids (蘭花) have become one of the most popular New Year flower in recent years. [2024.02]Orchid of different sizes and colours can be found in Fa Hui. [2024.02]Many people would spend big money for their favored Orchid arrangement to celebrate Lunar New Year. [2024.02]Apart from the Orchid, the exotic Nipple Fruit (五代同堂) has become another popular New Year decoration due to its metaphor on multi-generations living under one roof. [2024.02]This year, we opted for picking our flowers at Shun Sum Yuen, a local farm in rural Yuen Long. [2024.02]Coming all the way from city centre, the flower farm impressed us right away as if reaching a country retreat. [2024.02]In midst of the country serenity, just a few lily buds seem to be the perfect ornament to greet us at the farm entrance. [2024.02]Symbolizing good fortune and prosperity, Chinese knots were used as decorations in the farm. [2024.02]To cater for visitors who love taking selfies, special decorations were set up in the farm just before Lunar New Year. [2024.02]One of our main targets was Gladioli, especially for the ones with special or dual colours. [2024.02]Native to Africa and the Mediterranean, the elegant Gladioli are also popular in this part of the world. In Hong Kong, they symbolize the energy of “raising to a new level”. [2024.02]From the farm, we got two varieties of Lily (百合), pink and light yellow. [2024.02]Also from the farm includes four different types of Gladioli (劍蘭). [2024.02]From the Victoria Park, we got a pot of Narcissus (水仙), which is also a popular choice during Lunar New Year. [2024.02]Every year, we would also get a few branches of either Japanese or Italian Peach blossoms (桃花). Unlike the Chinese counterparts, the imported varieties are usually lesser in red and straighter in gesture. [2021.02]
In 1926 under the lush green setting of Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens, fifteen-year-old Cheung Tse Fong (張子芳) convinced his elder cousin Wong Wah O (黃華嶽) to open a western bakery in Hong Kong, a decision which eventually turned into one of the city’s largest bakery and modern food business. To commemorate their business discussion in the botanical garden, the cousins named their bakery “Garden Company” (嘉頓). In 1935, they bought a piece of land at Castle Peak Road (青山道) in Sham Shui Po (深水埗) to establish their headquarters and food processing factory. The facility was seriously damaged during the 1956 Hong Kong Riots. In 1958, Garden Company redeveloped their Sham Shui Po facility into a seven-storey factory building topped with a modernist clock tower. The 1958 building was designed by Chu Pin (朱彬), a well known architect educated in University of Pennsylvania, and one of the founders who established the most prominent architectural practice in Nationalist China. In 1949, Chu moved to Hong Kong and found Messrs. Kwan, Chu & Yang (基泰工程司). Since then, Chu designed a number of prominent projects in Hong Kong, including Man Yee Building (萬宜大廈) – the city’s first building that contained escalators, and Tak Shing House (德成大廈) – the city’s first building cladded with curtain walls. Inspired by the Bauhaus and Modernist movement around the world, Chu’s Garden Centre (嘉頓中心) soon became a landmark in Sham Shui Po. Today, the 65-year-old Garden Centre remains as a beloved icon in the neighborhood.
Behind Garden Centre, the 300 ft Garden Hill (嘉頓山) stands proudly as the “community backyard” for all residents of Sham Shui Po. Nicknamed after the Garden Centre, Garden Hill has become a popular place for photographers and tourists to enjoy the sunset and urban skyline of Sham Shui Po. Garden Hill has also marked its place in Hong Kong’s popular culture as a filming location for a number of movies and TV dramas. In recent years, Sham Shui Po has become one of our most favorite neighborhoods in Kowloon for its local eateries and tiny cafes, cool design and vinyl shops, and independent galleries and bookstores. On several occasions, after our bookstores and eateries hopping we would end our day on Garden Hill to get some fresh air and watch the evening lights to lit up the skyline of Sham Shui Po.
The 65-year-old Garden Centre remains as a landmark in today’s Sham Shui Po. [2021.07]In 2017, the company proposed to replace the Grade 2 historical building with a 25 storey tower. Local conservationists and communities have expressed their objection to the demolition of the historical building.[2021.07]In 2022, instead of demolishing Garden Centre, the company did a facade renovation to the existing building. [2021.07]The old signage of Garden Company at Castle Peak Road was removed. [2021.07]Across the street from Garden Centre, the former North Kowloon Magistracy (北九龍裁判法院) is another prominent historical building below Garden Hill. Designed by P&T Architects, the building is a good example of Stripped Classical architecture in Hong Kong. Erected in 1960, the Magistracy served the community for 44 years until 2005. Between 2010 and 2020, the building operated as a campus of the prestige Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD). [2021.12]The feature front stairs is another popular filming location for local movies. [2021.12]Mei Ho House (美荷樓), formerly part of Shek Kip Mei Estate (石硤尾邨), is the last remaining of its architectural type in Hong Kong. Built in 1954, the historical building was preserved and converted into a youth hostel and museum in 2013. Mei Ho House also marks the trailhead to go up Garden Hill. [2021.05]On our way up Garden Hill, new phases of Shek Kip Mei Estate (石硤尾邨) dominates the skyline of Sham Shui Po and Shek Kip Mei. [2021.05]The different phases of Shek Kip Mei Estate illustrate the dramatic evolution of public housing development in Hong Kong. [2021.05]From the lookout of Garden Hill, the densely populated Sham Shui Po is one of the older neighborhoods in Kowloon. Home to the city’s largest flea market, a decent collection of old eateries and hip cafes, the vibrant Sham Shui Po has become a popular tourist destination in Hong Kong. [2021.05]The “H” configuration of Mei Ho House and the red and white Garden Centre at the forefront gradually lit up along with the street lamps and busy traffic of Yen Chow Street (欽州街). At the far end of Yen Chow Street, new residential skyscrapers cluster along the waterfront of West Kowloon. [2021.05]It is lovely to chill out on Garden Hill over the busy streets of Sham Shui Po. [2021.05]The intersection in front of Garden Centre and Mei Ho House. [2021.05]Many visitors bring their tripod up Garden Hill to photograph the night scenes of Sham Shui Po. [2021.05]It is safe and pleasant to take night shots on Garden Hill. [2021.05]Some would just come up to chill out after dinner. [2021.05]Or sit on the slope to have some quiet lone time. [2021.05]Back down to the trailhead, it is difficult to tell that the renovated Mei Ho House is actually close to 70 years old. [2021.05]
In the morning of 28th December 2020, local resident Fong (芳姐) and several of her neighborhood friends returned to the demolition site atop Bishop Hill (主教山), where Fong “discovered” a beautiful underground cistern a day earlier during her routine exercise walk. What Fong saw were the long forgotten stone arches and vaults of the Ex-Sham Shui Po Service Reservoir (前深水埗配水庫) partially exposed by two months of demolition work. Holding up banners “Do Not Demolish, Respect the Will of Citizens”, Fong and her friends sneaked into the site to further document the arches, and bravely stopped the demolition workers and excavators amid the risks of personal safety and hostile reactions from the workers. The story attracted great attention on social and mass media. In less than a day, conservation groups, reporters and common people flocked up the hill to document the site. Despite blocking it off and prosecuting later trespassers, the authority soon gave in to the public outcry and halted demolition. Several months later, the Antiquities Advisory Board designated the underground cistern a Grade I historical building, and the government finally agreed to preserved the site. A year after Fong and her friends successfully stopped the demolition work, the underground reservoir was finally opened to the public with guided tours organized by Water Supplies Department. Since then, the Ex-Sham Shui Po Service Reservoir has become a popular tourist attraction, where guided tours are always fully booked.
Built in 1904 by the colonial government atop the 86m Bishop Hill, also known as Woh Chai Shan (窩仔山) or Shek Kip Mei Shan (石硤尾山), the Ex-Sham Shui Po Service Reservoir was part of the Kowloon Waterworks Gravitation Scheme, distributing water from the Kowloon Reservoir to the neighborhoods of Kowloon Tong and Sham Shui Po. To reduce the cost of perimeter wall, the Ex-Sham Shui Po Service Reservoir was constructed in a circular configuration, with a diameter of 150 feet and a height of about 22 feet. The underground reservoir remained in service for much of the 20th century until 1970, when it was superseded by the much larger Shek Kip Mei Fresh Service Reservoir. The Ex-Sham Shui Po Service Reservoir was soon forgotten until 2020, when the beautiful Romanesque structure was brutally brought to sunlight by excavators. If not exposed by Fong and her neighborhood friends, the reservoir on Bishop Hill would certainly fall into oblivion. We would never get a chance to learn more about the historical structure, which to a certain extent reminded us of the Basilica Cistern in Istanbul.
Chinese Calligraphy of Bishop Hill (主教山) at the trailhead. [2022.10]Just like Ping Shan in Kowloon Bay, Bishop Hill has become a communal backyard for adjacent neighborhoods. Trails are being “decorated” by the community, who visit the hill regularly for exercises and socializing with others. [2022.10]A community shrine has been set up halfway up the hill. [2022.10]Another simple shrine halfway uphill. [2022.10]Scattered all over Bishop Hill, a dozen or two ping pong tables are also brought up by the community. [2022.10]Nets are set up by the community to prevent ping pong balls falling down the slopes. [2022.10]These makeshift table tennis courts have become very popular among the adjacent communities. [2022.10]At the top of Bishop Hill, a steel and glass canopy has been erected to cover the dismantled roof of the Ex-Sham Shui Po Service Reservoir. [2022.10]A simple boardwalk has also been provided inside the former cistern for the convenience of visitors. [2022.10]Since its opening in 2021, the underground reservoir has become a popular tourist destination. [2022.10]Inspired by Ancient Roman architecture, the arches and vaults of the cistern was probably a legacy of the Romanesque Revival architectural movement that was quite popular in the 19th century Britain. [2022.10]While the floor was partly filled with debris from earlier demolition work, there wasn’t a whole lot of space to move around in the former reservoir. [2022.10]Yet, even standing still at the centre we could easily appreciate the structure. [2022.10]While historical arches and vaulted structures are quite common in Europe and the Middle East, it is a rarity in Hong Kong as many century old buildings have been demolished throughout the years. [2022.10]A masonry arch is a fundamental structure in the history of architecture dating back to millennia. [2022.10]Not sure how the government would decide to make use of the historical cistern in the future. [2022.10]For now, the Ex-Sham Shui Po Service Reservoir will remain as a tourist site for guided tours only. [2022.10]
Imagine flying a 747 Jumbo Jet in the 1990’s and approaching Hong Kong from the southwest near Cheung Chau Island, where the localizer would be intercepted for the runway and a right turn must be made towards Kai Tak Airport (啟德機場) in the middle of the densely populated Kowloon City, and in front of the range of Kowloon peaks. Due to the mountainous terrain, the IGS (instrument guidance system) was offset from the runway by 47 degrees. Using the red and white Checkerboard Hill in Kowloon Tsai Park as a visual reference, a 47 degree right turn, famously known as the “Hong Kong Turn” or “Checkerboard Turn”, must be made manually upon reaching the hill to avoid crashing into the mountains, and line up the jet with the runway. With less than two nautical miles of distance to manoeuvre the turn, starting from the height of about 650 feet and exited at 140 feet for the final descend onto Runway 13, the move was referred to as the “Kai Tak Heart Attack”. Every decision had to made in a short period of time precisely to avoid causing delays in one of the world’s busiest airport (3rd busiest for passenger and 1st for cargo in 1996). When I was a child, I never thought that the old Kai Tak Airport was special. Upon descending at Kai Tak Airport, I still remember passing over Kowloon City in seemingly touchable distance from building rooftops, seeing the interiors of apartment units and people playing basketball in ball courts. 25 years after the closure of Kai Tak Airport, Kowloon Walled City no longer exists and Kai Tak runway has become a residential district. Standing on the Checkerboard Hill looking south, we could appreciate the impressive operations of Kai Tak Airport and the marvelous skills of the pilots who braved the “Kai Tak Heart Attack”.
At the foot of Checkerboard Hill, Hau Wong Temple (侯王廟) remains as the last surviving remnant from the Kowloon Walled City. Built in 1730, today the temple stands across the street from Kowloon Walled City Park, overlooking the disappeared community it once served as their patron saint. The temple is dedicated to Hau Wong, a loyal follower of the last Emperor of the Southern Song Dynasty who tried to escape the pursuit of Mongols and fled to Kowloon City from the north. The temple consists of a main hall, side chambers, courtyards and a garden. After a descending from Checkerboard Hill, we stumbled upon the beautiful Hau Wong Temple by chance. Apart from the temple’s history related to the walled city, we were also impressed by the temple’s Shiwan ceramic figurines (石灣陶塑) in the courtyards, and the Eighteen Buddha Guardians Lohan (十八羅漢), and Sixty Tai Shui (太歲, Gods of Time).
Standing in Kowloon Tsai Park (九龍仔公園), we could clearly see the Checkerboard Hill in front and Lion Rock beyond. [2022.11]Recently, the government decided to repaint Checkerboard Hill to its former glory, in commemoration to the former Kai Tak Airport. [2022.11]It’s hard to imagine that just the simple checkerboard pattern would play a major role in guiding the airplanes for Kai Tak Airport. [2022.11]23 years after the closure of Kai Tak Airport, the authority has repainted the red and white pattern on the west and south slopes of the Checkerboard Hill as a reminder of the former airport. [2022.11]Standing merely 98m above Kowloon City, it’s a rather short hike up the Checkerboard Hill. [2022.11]Atop Checkerboard Hill, one can imagine airplanes making a 47 degree turn in mid air right in front of the lookout. [2022.11]The summit marker on Checkerboard Hill is somewhere hidden in the tree shade. [2022.11]Below the lawn of Checkerboard Hill contains a water reservoir constructed in 1960. [2022.11]The top of Checkerboard Hill offers a fine view of the Lion Rock. [2022.11]
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Below Checkerboard Hill, Hau Wong Temple (侯王廟) has been protecting the neighborhood of Kowloon City for over two hundred years. [2022.11]Hau Wong Temple was probably built in 1730 and served as the patron saint for Kowloon Walled City. [2022.11]Historical details include traditional facade murals over the main entrance. [2022.11]The main hall is dedicated to Hau Wong, Kwun Yum Goddess of Mercy, and All Saints. [2022.11]A side chamber contains extensive relief and figurines of the Eighteen Buddha Guardians Lohan (十八羅漢). [2022.11]Many also come to this chamber for worshiping the Sixty Tai Shui (太歲, Gods of Time). [2022.11]The Shiwan ceramic figurines (石灣陶塑) at the courtyard are particularly engaging. [2022.11]Shiwan ceramic figurines (石灣陶塑) at Hau Wong Temple. [2022.11]We stayed quite a while at the small courtyard to examine the Shiwan ceramic figurines. [2022.11]Dated from 1888, the stone inscription of “鶴” (crane) has been guarding the back of the temple for more than a century. [2022.11]
At the lookout of Ping Shan, the distant Lion Rock stands as the most recognizable feature in the scenery of Kowloon. In Hong Kong, there is no other peaks like the Lion Rock. Reaching a height of 495m, the iconic hill has been the symbol of “Hong Kong spirit” since the 1970’s. In 1972, a TV show named Below the Lion Rock (獅子山下) was broadcasted on RTHK, the official public broadcasting channel in the city. The show presents stories of the grass-root community, many of whom were Chinese refugees living in neighborhoods below Lion Rock, reestablishing their lives in Hong Kong after WWII and the Chinese Civil War. The show also covers stories of Hongkongers in context of various social issues. It was produced and broadcasted on and off from 1972 till the present. In 1979, a theme song for the show with the same name came out. Dealing with the collective spirit of persistence and pursuit of dreams during hardships, the song soon became the unofficial anthem for not just the communities below Lion Rock, but also the entire city. Prominently situated over Central Kowloon, Lion Rock has become the city’s cultural symbol during the formative years, when Hong Kong was rapidly reinventing itself from an industrial hub to an international financial centre. Today, Lion Rock still reminds people to the city’s humble years, and the collective fighting spirit of its people.
Putting aside its symbolic meanings, with its shape that resembles a crouching lion, the Lion Rock is also physically one of the most recognizable peaks in Hong Kong. The hill is visible from many districts in the city, even across Victoria Harbour. Its peak is also accessible from various neighborhoods, such as Wong Tai Sin (黃大仙), Tsz Wan Shan (慈雲山), and Tai Wai (大圍). No matter which trailhead to start from, the hike up the summit would usually take less than 2 hours. For us, it was always a spontaneous decision to hike up. We managed to summit Lion Rock three times, but not a single time did we enjoy the view from the top in a smog free day. Due to the popularity of Lion Rock, it was always crowded on the top, especially on the rocky summit where everyone is searching for the best selfie spot. Despite the smog, views of the evening skyline still captivated us each time when we stood up there. Someday, we will hike up Lion Rock again on a perfect day.
The iconic Lion Rock overlooking Kowloon Walled City in the Qing Dynasty. [Photo taken by John Thomson in 1868, Public Domain]From Diamond Hill, Lion Rock rises prominently above the residential buildings of Wong Tai Sin. [2022.08]Just like many trails in Hong Kong, small shrines are often set up near the trailhead. [2018.12]The hike up isn’t difficult, but have to conquer some steep flights of steps. [2017.02]Spectacular view of the power line from below at midway up Lion Rock. [2017.02]Even at midway, views of Kowloon and Hong Kong Island further south is already looking quite promising. [2017.02]After climbing a series of steep steps, reaching the top was a satisfying feat. [2017.02]At the top, we could also get a glimpse of Tai Wai and Shatin to the north. [2017.02]The summit of Lion Rock is popular for rocky climbing. [2017.02]It can get quite busy at the summit when hikers queue up to take selfies. [2018.12]View towards West Kowloon and Stonecutters Bridge to the west. [2017.02]It is quite chill to sit on the summit and watch the city to gradually light up. [2017.02]Back in 2017, the runway of former Kai Tak Airport in the harbour was still empty. Today, it is filled with apartment blocks. [2017.02]Looking south to Kowloon City and the skyline of Hong Kong Island. [2017.02]View of Kowloon East. [2017.02]Leaving the summit at dusk means descending almost in complete darkness. [2017.02]
Blue Lapis Road 