Asia: Southeast

DAY 4: FAREWELL BAGAN FAREWELL MYANMAR, 2017.12.26

On the last day of our Burmese trip, we got up early in the morning to take a stroll in the Nyaung-U neighbourhood before heading to the airport. With less than an hour to spare, we decided to find our own way to revisit the Shwezigon Paya, the largest temple in Nyaung-U. Assisted by Google Map, we headed into the peaceful residential neighborhood of Nyaung-U. It was 7 in the morning, the light was soft and the air peaceful in the residential streets. Without much trouble we reached Shwezigon Paya. Vendors were busily preparing their stalls at the temple entrances while local worshipers were already arriving in clusters. Foreign tourists had yet arrived but the temple was already quite lively. Without a guide this time, we had the freedom to wander around the temple to absorb the spiritual atmosphere and take photographs. Keeping our departure time in mind, we headed back to Oasis Hotel via the same route. We had a quick sip of coffee at Oasis before the taxi arrived. At the airport, we soon found out that there was an issue with the incoming aircraft and our 9am flight was delayed until 11:30am. We chose to stay at the airport to write postcards and waited for further news. Fortunately the aircraft did arrive and we had no trouble to catch our connecting flight at Yangon back to Hong Kong.

That concludes the posts on our 3-day trip to Myanmar in December 2017.

At 7am, we walked into a quiet residential neighborhood of Nyaung-U heading towards Shwezigon Paya, the largest temple in Nyaung-U.

Finding our way with Google Map on our phone, we passed by small shops and streets out of the tourist areas.

In the early hours, the town was extremely peaceful and there were hardly any people on the street.

As we approached the town largest temple, we could see much more activities on the street.

We arrived at Shwezigon Paya from a different entrance than where Win Thu , a guide, brought us to two days ago.

Devoid of foreign tourists, Shwezigon Paya appeared to be much more spiritual under the soft light of the morning sun.

At the temple entrance hallway, vendors were starting their busy day.

Stalls selling local snacks in bamboo skewers and bowls of colourful sauces were set up at prominent spots.

Without the tour groups we had a better chance to photograph the locals and entrance hallway at Shwezigon Paya.

Floral offerings were particular popular with worshipers at the temple entrance.

On our way back, we passed by an unused entrance hallway of Shwezigon Paya.

A cute little girl caught our attention on our way back to the hotel.

The short walk also led us to pass by less known stupa in the quiet neighborhood.

Some locals were burning trash at a street intersection.

Beautiful morning sun led our way back towards Oasis Hotel.

We passed through the sleepy Aye Nyein Thaya Park on our way back.

This short morning walk gave us a more domestic look at Nyaung-U, the commercial hub of the Bagan area.

At Nyaung-U Airport, we were told that our flight was delayed for two hours.

Before noontime, we were finally up in the air over the arid plains of Bagan towards Yangon. Two days of temple and pagoda hopping provided us a memorable introduction to the spectacular wonders of Bagan.

It wasn’t long before we arrived at Yangon International Airport and transited to our return flight back to Hong Kong. Although short, the trip to Yangon and Bagan gave us a remarkable getaway from the often commercialized and overwhelmingly busy Christmas scenes of the city.

* * *

Blog posts on Myanmar 2017:

Day 1: Yangon, Myanmar
DAY 1: INTRODUCTION OF A SHORT BURMESE CHRISTMAS VACATION
DAY 1: WALK TO 999 SHAN NOODLE HOUSE
DAY 1: SULE PAGODA
DAY 1: COLONIAL ARCHITECTURE
DAY 1: BUSTLING STREET LIFE
DAY 1: GOLDEN WORLD OF SHWEDAGON PAGODA
DAY 1: A PLACE FOR PEOPLE, Shwedagon Pagoda
DAY 1: EVENING MAGIC OF THE GOLDEN SHWEDAGON PAGODA
DAY 1: A FESTIVE NIGHT

Day 2: Bagan
DAY 2: SHWEZIGON PAGODA, Nyaung-U
DAY 2: HTILOMINLO AND UPALI THEIN
DAY 2: ANANDA PAHTO
DAY 2: SUNSET AT OLD BAGAN
DAY 2: SILENT NIGHT IN NYAUNG-U

Day 3: Bagan
DAY 3: MAGICAL SUNRISE, Old Bagan
DAY 3: NYAUNG-U MARKET, Nyaung-U
DAY 3: SULAMANI TEMPLE
DAY 3: DHAMMAYANGYI TEMPLE
DAY 3: THATBYINNYU TEMPLE
DAY 3: NAPAYA, MANUHA AND GUBYAUKGYI, Myinkaba
DAY 3: SUNSET No. 2, Old Bagan
DAY 3: FINAL NIGHT IN NYAUNG-U

Day 4: Farewell Myanmar
DAY 4: FAREWELL BAGAN FAREWELL MYANMAR

June 17, 2018 | Categories: Bagan, Myanmar, Myanmar 2017 | Tags: airport, Aye Nyein Thaya Park, Bagan, Burma, Myanmar, Nyaung-U, Shwezigon, Temple, Yangon | Leave a comment

DAY 3 (8/8): FINAL NIGHT IN NYAUNG-U, Myanmar, 2017.12.25

In the evening, we returned to Sanon Restaurant in Nyaung-U for dinner. After dinner, we walked to the commercial street of Nyaung-U. Souvenir vendors, hotels, pubs and restaurants lined up along Thi Ri Pysitsaya 4 Street, which, as our guidebook described, provided simple nightlife to the foreign tourists. Foreign tourists concentrated on a few of the restaurants that served fusion cuisine (Chinese, Thai and Myanmar). The decor were mainly causal and colourful. For us, the most eye-catching scene was a traditional umbrella showroom with a variety of colourful and translucent umbrellas lighted up from behind.

We passed by the Sapada Paya once again at the road intersection on our way to Sanon Restaurant.

Simple Christmas decorations lighted up building facades along the main road of the town.

Another satisfying meal at Sanon Restaurant.

Most shops along the main street in Nyaung-U offered e-bikes hire for tourists.

It was about 9pm and most tourists had already returned to their hotels.

Some shops offered contemporary bags and accessories with a Burmese touch in design.

Some were still checking out the souvenir vendors.

The most attractive shop was an traditional umbrella store.

Several local children circling around a fire reminded us that Bagan was still a less privileged rural area in Myanmar despite recent development of tourism.

* * *

Blog posts on Myanmar 2017:

Day 2: Bagan
DAY 2: SHWEZIGON PAGODA, Nyaung-U
DAY 2: HTILOMINLO AND UPALI THEIN
DAY 2: ANANDA PAHTO
DAY 2: SUNSET AT OLD BAGAN
DAY 2: SILENT NIGHT IN NYAUNG-U

Day 4: Farewell Myanmar
DAY 4: FAREWELL BAGAN FAREWELL MYANMAR

June 17, 2018 | Categories: Bagan, Myanmar, Myanmar 2017 | Tags: Bagan, Burma, Myanmar, Nyaung-U, restaurant, Sanon, shopping, Thi Ri Pysitsaya 4, town | Leave a comment

DAY 3 (7/8): SUNSET No. 2, Old Bagan, Myanmar, 2017.12.25

Our car sped through the dusty country road towards one of the designated viewing platform in Old Bagan. It was our last chance to enjoy the sunset scenery over the pagodas of Bagan. We thought we were late, but instead we were among the first few to arrive at the viewing platform. We picked out spot to view the sunset in front of the golden fields, romantic pagodas and distant mountains. We were occasionally distracted by the passing cattle and humble shepherds. As the sun set behind the surreal skyline of Medieval pagodas and spires, we knew that our brief tour of magical Bagan was coming to an end. It might have been too much history and Buddhist philosophy to take in in less than two days, but the experience did prove more than worthwhile for a spiritual journey to the religious and historical heartland of Myanmar. After the sunset, Win Thu and our driver dropped us back at Oasis Hotel. At the parking lot, we went through the formality of payment and tipping, and earnestly thanked them for introducing us the wonder of Bagan.

We passed by a number of fascinating pagodas on our way to the viewing platform.

The late afternoon sun was gorgeous, casting a beautiful orange glow on the bricks of the pagodas.

The platform was just a earth berm in the midst of grass fields and pagodas.

The sun was still high above the pagodas when we arrived.

A number of pagodas stood out in front of us.

Another marvelous temple was partially covered by scaffolding.

The shrubs right in front us began to glow under the golden sun.

The silhouette of pagodas and spires formed a romantic skyline in front of us.

Our focus shifted to the cattle passing behind us.

The white cattle and the red pagodas together formed a surreal picture.

The view of the shepherds and cattle was a great bonus for us.

The cattle gradually disappeared beyond the woods behind us.

It was a perfect day to watch the sunset.

We stood silently to watch the sun lowered behind the distant mountains.

Once the sun was gone, most tourists soon left the platform. We stayed for a little longer to absorb the tranquil atmosphere of Bagan.

* * *

Blog posts on Myanmar 2017:

Day 2: Bagan
DAY 2: SHWEZIGON PAGODA, Nyaung-U
DAY 2: HTILOMINLO AND UPALI THEIN
DAY 2: ANANDA PAHTO
DAY 2: SUNSET AT OLD BAGAN
DAY 2: SILENT NIGHT IN NYAUNG-U

Day 4: Farewell Myanmar
DAY 4: FAREWELL BAGAN FAREWELL MYANMAR

June 15, 2018 | Categories: Bagan, Myanmar, Myanmar 2017 | Tags: Bagan, Burma, Burmese, Myanmar, pagoda, sun, sunset | Leave a comment

DAY 3 (6/8): NAPAYA, MANUHA AND GUBYAUKGYI, Myinkaba, Bagan, Myanmar, 2017.12.25

After Sulamani, Dhammayangyi and Thatbyinnyu, Win Thu suggested we could shift to see some smaller and unique temples in the nearby area. We headed south from Old Bagan to the village of Myinkaba. We first stopped by Napaya Temple to check out the Brahma sculptures. Instead of Buddhist images, Napaya is famous for its Hindu wall relief. The temple was smaller than what we imagined, but the relief was quite remarkable and unique. We stayed in Napaya for a short while, then moved on to Manuha Temple, one of the oldest temples in Bagan. Manuha was quite interesting for us because firstly it still remained as an active worshiping place and secondly it housed several prominent Buddhist statues. Lastly we dropped by the Gubyaukgyi, another small temple famous for its Jataka murals. Luckily temple keeper was around and we were allowed to get into the temple.

With the small openings on the brickwork, Napaya Temple was small and dark inside and we were the only visitors.

At the centre of Napaya, there was the main altar surrounded by the Brahma relief sculptures.

Though not pleasant to the eye, the metal sub-frame inside Napaya Temple helps to prevent further deterioration of the original structure.

Near the Napaya, the Manuha Temple offered a completely different picture: a busy place of worship full of local visitors.

There are several buildings and four different images of Buddha at Manuha Temple.

The largest seated Buddha image is located in a building at the centre of the temple complex.

A large crowd of worshipers gathered at the base of the Buddha statue. They placed their hands and faces onto the golden statue, and murmured prayers with their eyes closed.

We were overwhelmed by the scale of the Buddha when standing right in front of the statue.

We stood behind the worshipers. Through the entrance archway, we could only see the base of the Buddha and his crossed legs.

Right across from the seated Buddha, there was huge golden alms bowl on display. Visitors lined up to climb a ladder and look inside the bowl.

In another building, we came face to face with a 90 foot reclining Buddha, a fine example of the iconic posture of the Buddha lying on his right about to enter the parinirvana.

The reclining Buddha is housed in a simple shelter just large enough to cover the lying statue.

A group of young monks walked past the building that houses the reclining Buddha.

Young monks is a common scene throughout Myanmar.

After Manuha Temple, we followed Win Thu back to the sleepy village of Myinkaba.

The village of Myinkaba is famous for traditional lacquerware.

The last temple we visited in Myinkaba was Gubyaukgyi Temple. We came to see the well preserved frescoes made by the Mon people.

Built in 1113 AD by Prince Yazakumar, Gubyaukgyi Temple is another small gem with fine examples of Indian and Mon architectural ornaments.

We were lucky that the temple keeper was around to let us in to check out the frescoes. Outside the temple, souvenir and puppet vendors gathered under the late afternoon sun.

The sun was already quite low after our visit of Gubyaukgyi, urging us to find a good spot to watch Bagan’s sunset one last time.

* * *

Blog posts on Myanmar 2017:

Day 2: Bagan
DAY 2: SHWEZIGON PAGODA, Nyaung-U
DAY 2: HTILOMINLO AND UPALI THEIN
DAY 2: ANANDA PAHTO
DAY 2: SUNSET AT OLD BAGAN
DAY 2: SILENT NIGHT IN NYAUNG-U

Day 4: Farewell Myanmar
DAY 4: FAREWELL BAGAN FAREWELL MYANMAR

June 13, 2018 | Categories: Bagan, Myanmar, Myanmar 2017 | Tags: Bagan, Brahma, Buddha, Buddhism, Buddhist, Burma, Gubyaukgyi, Manuha, monk, Myanmar, Myinkaba, Napaya, Phaya, Temple | Leave a comment

DAY 3 (5/8): THATBYINNYU TEMPLE, Bagan, Myanmar, 2017.12.25

Another prominent structures that we visited in Bagan was Thatbyinnyu Temple. Before entering the temple, our guide Win Thu led us to climb onto a long earth mount. We soon found out that the mount was part of the old city wall. We walked on it for a little bit. From the old wall, we enjoyed the fantastic views of nearby pagodas and the Thatbyinnyu. Built in mid-12th century, the 60m+ pagoda of Thatbyinnyu Temple is one of the tallest monuments in the area. We followed Win Thu into the temple, circled the interior passage once and stopped a few times to listen to our guide’s Buddhist stories.

From the entrance road, we were impressed by the splendid architecture of Thatbyinnyu Temple.

The ruined brick wall in front of the temple was the southeastern corner of the old city wall.

We walked the former city wall for a little bit.

From the wall, we could see various pagodas nearby.

The Thatbyinnyu stood beautiful just a stone throw north of the ruined city wall.

We followed Win Thu to find the main entrance of Thatbyinnyu.

Inside the temple, the first thing we saw was a prayer hall. For some reason, everything in Thatbyinnyu seemed to be light in tones, especially compared to the dimly lit interiors of other temples such as Dhammayangyi and Sulamani.

Much of the interior of Thatbyinnyu was repainted in a light beige colour.

Only small portions of the original fresco survives.

There were many worshipping niches along the wall of the passages.

We stopped at the statue of the Buddha with his hands resting on his chest. Win Thu told us the story of Buddha returning home to his wife and son after years of traveling and teaching.

Outside a temple archway, a local sand painting artist demonstrated the local sand painting techique to us.

We exited Thatbyinnyu from another crowded prayer hall.

* * *

Blog posts on Myanmar 2017:

Day 2: Bagan
DAY 2: SHWEZIGON PAGODA, Nyaung-U
DAY 2: HTILOMINLO AND UPALI THEIN
DAY 2: ANANDA PAHTO
DAY 2: SUNSET AT OLD BAGAN
DAY 2: SILENT NIGHT IN NYAUNG-U

Day 4: Farewell Myanmar
DAY 4: FAREWELL BAGAN FAREWELL MYANMAR

June 11, 2018 | Categories: Bagan, Myanmar, Myanmar 2017 | Tags: Bagan, Buddha, Buddhism, Buddhist, Burma, gold, Myanmar, pagoda, Temple, Thatbyinnyu, wall | Leave a comment

DAY 3 (4/8): DHAMMAYANGYI TEMPLE, Bagan, Myanmar, 2017.12.25

Not far from Sulamani stands the biggest temple in Bagan, the Dhammayangyi Temple. Standing majestically like an ancient pyramid, Dhammayangyi was perhaps a statement of remorse from King Narathu, who killed his father and elder brother and executed one of his wives for Hindu rituals. He also ordered the mortar-less brickwork to be so precise that not even a pin could fit between two bricks. Failing to do so the brick workers would be cruelly punished with amputation. However, before the temple was completed, Narathu himself was also assassinated in 1170. Since then, Dhammayangyi remained unfinished.

Compared with Sulamani, the interior of Dhammayangyi seemed much less polished. Our guide told us that after the death of Narathu, the locals hastily bricked up the inner passages and didn’t put too much efforts to maintain the temple because of their revulsion toward cruel Narathu. As we passed through the bricked up passages while touring the structure, a sense of mystery still captivated our imagination on what really lie beyond the bricked passages. Another interesting feature at Dhammayangyi was the original side-by-side Buddha statues with Gautama and Maitreya (present and future Buddhas). On the outside, we could admire the fine carvings on the external walls and at arched openings, where visitors gathered to pose for photos.

Looking from a distance, Dhammayangyi looked similar to an ancient pyramid in the Yucatan jungle.

After we took off our shoes, we followed a green mat to enter the temple complex.

On our way, we passed by a few trees where vendors displayed dozens of local puppets.

We entered Dhammayangyi through a worship hall packed with local worshippers.

The Buddha image at the altar was once again gilded with gold.

Behind the altar, we entered the main passage of the temple.

The ceiling of the passage was high and dark. Supporting arches appeared from time to time to provide braces for the walls.

We passed by a number of bricked up passages that led to the unknown.

Buddhist statues were placed at some of the opened niches.

Statues varied in styles and facial features might have come from different periods in history.

With the constant flow of visitors, walking in the dark passages of Dhammayangyi was hardly a spooky experience.

Finally we reached the west shrine, featuring the original image of the double Buddhas on one side, and a reclining Buddha on the back.

The dual statues of Gautama and Maitreya Buddha at Dhammayangyi was a rarity in Bagan.

At the exterior, local visitors enjoyed themselves at the arched openings.

Some of external ornaments and arched openings had become desirable backdrops for photo shooting.

We exited the complex from where we arrived.

Vending trucks selling fresh juices could be found all over the entrance parking lot.

A number of vendors gathered under a tree shade as Bagan braced for a scorching afternoon.

* * *

Blog posts on Myanmar 2017:

Day 2: Bagan
DAY 2: SHWEZIGON PAGODA, Nyaung-U
DAY 2: HTILOMINLO AND UPALI THEIN
DAY 2: ANANDA PAHTO
DAY 2: SUNSET AT OLD BAGAN
DAY 2: SILENT NIGHT IN NYAUNG-U

Day 4: Farewell Myanmar
DAY 4: FAREWELL BAGAN FAREWELL MYANMAR

June 10, 2018 | Categories: Bagan, Myanmar, Myanmar 2017 | Tags: Bagan, Buddha, Buddhism, Buddhist, Burma, Dhammayangyi, Gautama, Maitreya, Myanmar, Narathu, Temple | Leave a comment

DAY 3 (3/8): SULAMANI TEMPLE, Bagan, Myanmar, 2017.12.25

Often considered as the crown jewel of Bagan, Sulamani Temple is probably on every visitor’s itinerary in Bagan. The huge popularity of Sulamani probably comes from its magnificently preserved wall paintings along the long and dark corridors inside the temple, and the detailed ornaments of the pediments and pilasters. Built in the 12th century by Narapatisithu, Sulamani has withstood a series of earthquakes throughout history. The latest earthquake hit Bagan in 2016. Sulamani’s gilded spire and top umbrella collapsed, along with damages here and there that kept the temple behind scaffolding for much of 2017. Fortunately when we were there the temple had already reopen its doors to the public.

We left our shoes at the arched entrance gateway. From the entrance, we could notice the absence of the gilded spire.