ultramarinus – beyond the sea

DAY 5 – TAKIJIRI to TAKAHARA, Kumano Kodo (1 of 3), Japan

Along with Way of St. James in Spain, Japan’s Kumano Kodo is one of the two pilgrim routes inscribed as an UNESCO World Heritage.  We first came across Kumano Kodo during travel research when we were looking for an off-the-beaten path destination in Japan.  Learning the historical and spiritual significance of the centuries-old pilgrim trail, we immediately fell in love with Kumano Kodo.  Since the 10th century, pilgrims from Kyoto and other Japanese cities took the Kumano Kodo to reach the sacred sites of Kumano Sanzan (熊野三山) in the Kii Mountains.  The Kumano Sanzan includes three sacred mountain shrines: Kumano Hongu Taisha (熊野本宮大社), Kumano Nachi Taisha (熊野那智大社), and Kumano Hayatama Taisha (熊野速玉大社). Nowadays, the Kumano Kodo is a popular hiking destination for both local and international hikers.  Most visitors do the Kumano Kodo as a three-to-five day hike, staying at minshuku (local bed and breakfast) along the way.  In the middle of Kii Mountains near Kumano Hongu Taisha lies the famous Yunomine Onsen, the oldest hot spring in the country.  Most pilgrims, past or present, would go for a dip in the healing hot spring after days of walking. Out of the various Kumano Kodo routes, we decided to take the popular Nakahechi route from Takijiri to Hongu Taisha.  This route would take two days.  On the first day, we walked from Takijiri to Tsugizakura (18.2km), and the second from Tsugizakura to Hongu Taisha (22.1km). OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAnother rainy day to start off with.  From Tanabe train station, we took the 6:50 bus heading into the mountains.  At 7:28 we get off at Takijiri (滝尻), the official trail head of the Nakahechi route.  The Kumano Kodo visitor centre had not yet opened its doors.  At 7:30, the van of our backpack shuttle service arrived and we gratefully handed over our backpack to the driver, who would deliver our bag to the minshuku where we were staying the night. 2Along the way on Kumano Kodo, there are many oji shrines.  These oji are subsidary shrines of the Kumano grand shrines.  Takijiri Oji is situated right at the trail head of the Nakahechi route of Kumano Kodo. 2aOne of the first things encountered on Kumano Kodo was the beautiful cedar forest. 3The rain stopped soon after we ascended into the mountains.  High up on the first lookout we could admire the picturesque valley and distant mountains of the Kii Mountain Range. 4Mount Meshimori-yama, the first lookout on the trail. 6About 1.5 hour from Takijiri, we were soon approaching the village of Takahara (高原). 5Small family farms overlooking the Kii Mountain Range. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIn Takahara, we visited a local wood shop.  The scent of the local wood filled the entire shop.  The owner showed us his master piece, wooden frame of a double bed.  Beside the workshop there was a small souvenir shop selling all kinds of things made of wood, from key chains to photo frames. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERATakahara is an attractive small mountain village famous for its mountain views and morning sea of clouds. 9Takahara Kumano-jinja, the main shrine in the mountain village of Takahara. 10From Takahara Kiri-no-Sato rest area, we stayed for a short while to enjoy the view. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe vending machine at Takahara Kiri-no-Sato rest area was selling all kinds of drinks. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAt Takahara Kiri-no-Sato rest area we ate the snacks that the wood shop owner gave us. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAfter Takahara Kiri-no-Sato rest area the sign pointing to Chikatsuyu Oji, the next major village about 9km down the road. 14After a few more minutes of walking, we exited the village of Takahara and came to a fork road where a cherry tree stood and a “Kumano Kodo” sign that pointed to an uphill path. 16At the top of the path we came across a number of rice paddy fields.  In the reflection of the blue sky, rows of young seedlings shooting upwards against a backdrop of the Kii mountains.

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Read other posts on 2015 Kansai…
Day 1.0 – Kansai Japan 2015
Day 1.1 – Hanami, Mount Yoshino 
Day 1.2 – Feast under the Shades of Sakura, Mount Yoshiko
Day 2 – A Day in Kobe
Day 3 – A Day in Central Osaka
Day 4 – Tanabe – Prelude of the Kumano Kodo
Day 5.1 – Takijiri to Takahara, Kumano Kodo
Day 5.2 – Takahara to Tsugizakura , Kumano Kodo
Day 5.3 – Minshuku Tsugizakura, Kumano Kodo
Day 6.1 – Tsugizakura to Mikoshi-Toge Pass, Kumano Kodo
Day 6.2 – Mikoshi-Toge Pass to Hongu Taisha, Kumano Kodo
Day 6.3 – Kumano Hongu Taisha to Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.1 – Ryokan Adumaya, Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.2 – Yunomine Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.3 – Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Kodo
Day 7.4 – Wataze Onsen, Kumano Kodo
Day 8.1 – Kumano Nachi Taisha, Kumano Kodo
Day 8.2 – Kii Katsuura, Kumano Kodo
Day 9 – Church of Light, Osaka

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