Peru

LAST DAY IN PERU, Lima, Peru

We took a morning flight back to Lima, stored our big backpacks at the airport and took a taxi to Museo de la Nacion. We came here specifically to see the Yuyanapaq exhibition on the 6th floor. Yuyanapaq means “to remember” in Quechua. It was an exhibition of black and white photographs documenting the Peruvian internal conflict from 1980 to 2000, in which thousands were killed in attacks by Shining Path rebels, government military, and other guerrilla groups. It was a touching experience to learn the recent history of Peru. It was hard to believe that the terror of bombings could happen pretty much anywhere in this country only a decade ago.

After some heavy realization of Peru’s recent past, we decided it was time for a good seafood lunch for this very last day of our trip. We followed the guidebook’s recommendation and headed to El Veridico de Fidel, which according to the guidebook, was a place of pilgrimage in terms of Peruvian seafood. Though the book forewarned that the restaurant’s neighborhood could be a little chaotic and rough. As a result we decided to take a taxi. El Veridico de Fidel was truly a seafood heaven. It was fully packed. We spent a long time looking at the menu. At last, we ordered a full table of seafood and a jar of chicha, a type of fermented corn beverage. The seafood dishes included leche de tigre (ceviche broth with shrimp, scallop, raw fish, octopus, and sea urchin), bi-colour tiradito (Japanese style ceviche without onions), ceviche platter (scallop, raw fish, whelks, octopus, and sea urchin), deep-fried seafood platter, baked scallops with cheese on top, and a red snapper sudado. The fish was fresh, and the soup very tasty.

After the heavenly meal, we taxied to the Plaza de Armas. We causally strolled around the plaza to appreciate the surrounding architecture. We headed to the main post office to send out some postcards. There was only a tiny door from the arcade into the post office. We tried to buy some collection stamps but the staff refused to sell as they were closing. After the post office, we walked around the area, stopped by a bakery for drinks, and then headed to Plaza San Martin. At Plaza San Martin, we tried to visit El Bolivarcito for its legendary pisco sour but because of the regional election the next day, they were not allowed to sell alcohol.

We ended up stopping at a nearby KFC, before taking a taxi back to Lima’s airport. One of our friends and us left Lima for New York and then Toronto that very night, while our other friend stayed at a hostel near the airport for another night before his flight back to Chicago the next morning. That was it. Uncounted fond memories of Peru: Andes Mountains, Inca history, colourful cultures, fantastic seafood, friendly people, funny llamas, mighty condors and sacred Titicaca. After these magnificent Peruvian experiences, our interest on South America grew as time went on, until the day came when we were determined to explore this magical continent once again in 2013, from the Brazilian Pantanal to Bolivian Altiplano, and from the bustling Rio and Buenos Aires to windswept Patagonia.

The Museo de la Nacion in Lima.

The interior atrium at Museo de la Nacion, Lima.

Back window of taxi, on our way to El Veridico de Fidel.

Leche de tigre (ceviche broth) with shrimp, scallop, raw fish, octopus, and sea urchin.

(Left) ceviche platter, which included a scallop, raw fish, whelks, octopus, and sea urchin. (Right) baked scallops with cheese on top.

(Left) deep-fried seafood platter. (Right) red snapper sudado.

After we finished, one of the staff came to pose for me to take a photo. His bowl of fish and crab soup seemed very tempting to us as well.

The Plaza de Armas with buildings, cathedral, Archbishop’s Palace of Lima, etc.

Plaza de Armas, with buildings, cathedral, Archbishop’s Palace of Lima, etc.

President palace.

Interesting balcony at President’s Palace.

Arcade at the main post office.

Tourist horse carriage at Plaza de Armas, Lima.

A ornamental church along our way to Plaza San Martin.

Late afternoon at Plaza San Martin, Lima.

KFC at Plaza San Martin where we spent the last hour in Lima, Peru.

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LIMA
1. Peru Trip 2010
2. Bumpy Arrival, Lima & Arequipa, Peru
AREQUIPA & COLCA CANYON
3. Monasterio de Santa Catalina, Arequipa, Peru
4. Plaza de Armas, Arequipa, Peru
5. Volcanoes and Vicuna, Pampa Canahuas Natural Reserve, Patahuasi, and Patapampa, Peru
6. Yanque, Colca Canyon, Peru
7. Cruz del Condor, Colca Canyon, Peru
8. Farming Terraces, Colca Canyon, Peru
PUNO & TITICACA
9. Road to Titicaca, Colca Canyon to Puno, Peru
10. Afternoon on Taquile Island, Titicaca, Peru
11. Morning on Taquile, Titicaca, Peru
12. Inka Express, Puno to Cusco, Peru
CUSCO & SACRED VALLEY
13. Pisac & Ollantaytambo, Sacred Valley, Peru
14. Salinas de Maras, & Moray, Sacred Valley, Peru
15. Lucuma Milkshake & Plaza de Armas, Cusco, Peru
16. Saksaywaman, Cusco, Peru
INCA TRAIL
17. KM 82 to Wayllabamba, Inca Trail, Peru
18. Wayllabamba to Pacamayo, Inca Trail, Peru
19. Pacasmayo to Winay Wayna, Inca Trail, Peru
20. Winay Wayna to Machu Picchu, Inca Trail, Peru
21. Machu Piccu, Inca Trail, Peru
22. Machu Picchu in Black and White, Inca Trail, Peru
23. Afterthought, Inca Trail, Peru
LAST DAY IN CUSCO & LIMA
24. Farewell to the Incas, Cusco, Peru
25. Last Day in Peru, Lima, Peru

February 18, 2016 | Categories: Lima, Peru, Peru 2010 | Tags: ceviche, cuisine, El Veridico de Fidel, food, leche de tigre, Lima, Museo de la Nacion, Peru, Plaza de Armas, Quechua, seafood, Shining Path, urchin, Yuyanapaq | Leave a comment

FAREWELL TO THE INCAS, Cusco, Peru

After the 4-day Inca Trail, we had one final full day in Cusco. We started off our day with visiting Qorikancha, the colonial church and convent of Santo Domingo that built upon the stone walls and foundations of the richest temple in the Inca empire, the Inti Wasi, or the Sun Temple. Qorikancha in Quechua means “Golden Courtyard”. Pachacuti Inca Yupanqui, the famous Inca Emperor who expanded the Kingdom of Cusco into the mighty Inca Empire, and was probably the one who ordered the construction of Machu Picchu, transformed much of Cusco into his capital city and erected the Inti Wasi as the most important temple of the empire. Pachacuti decorated Inti Wasi with gold vases, gold statues, gold ornaments, and walls covered with sheets of solid gold. Much of the gold was given to the Spanish as ransom money for Atahualpa, the last emperor of the Incas. Inti Wasi was looted and destroyed by the first Spanish conquistadors. The Spanish colonists then spent almost a century building the Church of Santo Domingo over the walls and foundations of Inti Wasi. Much of the church was damaged by earthquakes throughout the centuries, though much of the Inca foundations and walls remained intact because of their magnificent craftsmanship.

After Qorikancha, we strolled along Pampa de Castillo and picked an eatery to try some of the local delicacies. It was lunchtime and the restaurant was quite busy. There were only three things in the menu. We ordered one of each and a large bottle of Inca Cola. The dishes included adobo de chancho (Peruvian slow-cook pork in a soup/sauce made with jalapeno peppers, tomatoes, garlic, vinegar, salt and spices), chicharrones (deep-fried chunks of pork served with corn, mint leaves, potato and onion), and the truly awesome caldo de gallina (chicken soup with real taste of chicken).

After lunch, each of us did some shopping at Kuna, a local knitwear fashion brand with a good collection of alpaca garments. Then we walked over to the Cathedral (Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus). The Cathedral actually consisted of three different churches, Iglesia del Triunfo, Cathedral and Iglesia de Jesus Maria. We entered the Cathedral through Iglesia de Jesus Maria. The three churches were good examples of colonial architecture, with lots of silver treasures and historical artifacts. Famous paintings include the Quechua’s version of The Last Supper (a small feast with Andean ceremonial food), and the oldest surviving painting in Cusco that depicted an earthquake in 1650.

We couldn’t resist but went for another round of lucuma milkshake at Mercado San Pedro. After the drink, we took a taxi to the district of San Blas one more time to shop for jewellery and souvenirs. We didn’t get any jewellery, but instead, a few souvenirs including t-shirts and two small water-colour drawings. On our way back down from San Blas, we strolled pass the alleyway of Hatunrumlyoc to admire the Inca stonework one last time. This was once the palace of Inca Roca, then converted to a grand colonial residence, then a archbishop’s palace, and now, Museo de Arte Religioso. Each stone of Hatunrumlyoc was smoothed, shaped and fit together by hands, without any use of mortar. Given the splendid stonework, the Incas and the Quechua people were truly master builders of their time. It was hard to imagine that their empire lasted for only 100 years. Within a century they built all these palaces and lost cities on the Andes such as Machu Picchu.

Since I needed more rest to deal with my fever, I decided to called it a day and returned to Ninos 2 Hotel, while my friends went out to Plaza de Armas to meet up with our Inca Trail group for a dinner gathering. They brought back a bowl of delicious chicken soup for me that truly brightened my mood and whetted my appetite. Since we landed at Arequipa, it had been 13 days traveling in the Peruvian highlands. In the next morning, we would left the Peruvian Altiplano for Lima.

Nino’s Hotel 2: across from our room there is the facilities for street children supported by the hotel and other donations.

Entrance of Nino’s 2 Hotel

Entrance of the Qurikancha.

Urban view of Cusco from Qurikancha.

Reconstructed Inca temple structure with original materials.

Colonial ceiling panels at Qurikancha.

Outdoor garden of Qorikancha.

Adobo de chancho, chicharrones, and caldo de gallina

Atrium of the eatery.

Live music at the eatery.

Staff preparing chicharrones near the eatery entrance.

Plaza de Armas of Cusco.

The Cathedral of Cusco.

After the two churches, we strolled around the Plaza de Armas area, and found our way through some of the alleyways that are still flanked by Inca stonework. The first alleyway we walked through was Loreto.

Walking to Mercado San Pedro again.

Mercado San Pedro.

Magnificent Inca stonework at Hatunrumlyoc.

A courtyard of souvenir shops at Hatunrumlyoc.

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February 17, 2016 | Categories: Cusco and Sacred Valley, Peru, Peru 2010 | Tags: Adobo de Chancho, alpaca, Caldo de Gallina, Chicharrones, Cusco, Cuzco, Hatunrumlyoc, Iglesia de Jesus Maria, Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus, Iglesia del Triunfo, Inca, Inca Cola, Inti Wasi, lucuma, Machu Picchu, Ninos Hotel, Pachacuti, Pampa de Castillo, Peru, Plaza de Armas, Qorikancha, San Blas, Yupanqui | Leave a comment

AFTERTHOUGHTS, Inca Trail, Peru

We reached Aguas Calientes after a 20 minutes bus ride. As the gateway to Machu Picchu, Aguas Calientes is a very touristy town. The Urubamba River and the large boulders reminded us the flood and landslide that closed down the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu for two months from the end of January 2010. When the flood hit a little over half a year before our trip, over 2000 tourists were stranded at Aguas Calientes waiting for evacuation by helicopters. Little trace from the flood remained by the time we set foot at the town at the end of our Inca Trail journey.

We had little to do in the town, and I was not feeling well at the moment with a bit of fever. So we pretty much stayed at the restaurant for the entire afternoon while other members of the tour group went to check out the small market and souvenir shops in Aguas Calientes. We were all exhausted and waiting for the train ride back to Ollantaytambo at 7:45pm.

Two packs of “local” chips bought across the street from the restaurant became our “supper” on the train. The train took us to Ollantaytambo in about two hours. From there, Peru Treks arranged a bus that took us all back to Cusco. By the time we reached Cusco it was almost midnight. We bid farewell to the Peru Trek team and headed back to Ninos Hotel for the night. That concluded our 4-day Inca Trail experience.

The Urubamba River in Aguas Calientes.

Frequent shuttle bus runs to Machu Picchu from Aguas Calientes.

All businesses in Aguas Calientes depend on tourism of Machu Picchu.

The railway track runs right in the middle of Aguas Calientes’ main street.

We waited at the restaurant arranged by Peru Treks until late afternoon.

I wasn’t feeling well towards the end of the Inca Trail journey, and spent most of the afternoon resting at the restaurant.

Two packs of “local” chips were all we had for dinner after the remarkable Inca Trail journey.

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February 16, 2016 | Categories: Machu Picchu & Inca Trail Hike, Peru, Peru 2010 | Tags: Aguas Calientes, Cusco, Cuszo, Inca, Machu Picchu, Machupicchu Pueblo, Ollantaytambo, Peru, Sacred Valley, Trail, Urubamba | Leave a comment

MACHU PICCHU IN BLACK AND WHITE, Inca Trail, Peru

Situated at 2,430m above sea level on a mountain above the Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu was an estate of the Inca royalty. Abandoned before or around the time of the Spanish Conquest, the lost city was not known to the Western world until 1911 when American Historian Hiram Bingham rediscovered Machu Picchu. Compared to the early 20th century when most buildings in the site lay in ruins, today many parts of Machu Picchu have been restored for everyone to admire. Much research has been done over the past century, but according to the UNESCO, many of the mysteries remained resolved.

As UNESCO puts it, “the Inca City of the Historic Sanctuary of Machu Picchu is the articulating centre of its surroundings, a masterpiece of art, urbanism, architecture and engineering of the Inca Civilization. The working of the mountain, at the foot of the Huaya Picchu, is the exceptional result of integration with its environment, the result from a gigantic effort as if it were an extension of nature.” While we wandered around the site, we could truly witness the powerful integration of manmade architecture and natural landscape. The stepped terraces, temple structure incorporated into natural rock formation, and the stone pyramid all reveal the same story of harmony between Machu Picchu and the natural world. For us this feeling was very powerful, especially after we had firsthand experienced of the Andean landscape from our three days on the Inca Trail.

Temple of the Sun

Mummy vault (royal tombs) at Temple of the Sun

Alternative entrance to the Temple of the Sun.

Terrace of the Ceremonial Rock and Guardhouse at the top.

Terrace of the Ceremonial Rock

Stone quarry at Machu Picchu

A viscacha on an Inca wall.

Principle temple at Intiwatana Pyramid (damaged by earthquakes)

View from Intiwatana Pyramid.

Terraces at the side of Intiwatana Pyramid.

East urban section

Lane going up to upper section

East urban section

East urban section and the Huaya Picchu.

Overview of Machu Picchu with llamas.

Inca Bridge and original Inca Trail

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February 14, 2016 | Categories: Machu Picchu & Inca Trail Hike, Peru, Peru 2010 | Tags: Cusco, Cuzco, Hiram Bingham, Huaya Picchu, Inca, Intiwatana, llama, Machu Picchu, Peru, Temple of the Sun, Terrace of the Ceremonial Rock, Trail, viscacha | Leave a comment

MACHU PICCHU, Inca Trail, Peru

We validated our tickets and got a souvenir stamp onto our passport at the main entrance of Machu Picchu, then our guide Freddie led us into the site once again. We walked past the Terrace of the Ceremonial Rock and sat down at a terrace where Freddie gave us a talk about Machu Picchu. Then Freddie took us to the Temple of the Sun, where former Inca priests observed the sun, performed sacrifice rituals, and stored the royal mummies at the mausoleum.

Lastly, Freddie took us to the Main Temple and then Intiwatana Pyramid, a high point in Machu Picchu where the Incas studied and worshiped the stars. After some last words on the Inca astronomy, Freddie and his assistant Miguel left us to freely wander around the ruins on our own. They left for a restaurant at Aguas Calientes where the space was reserved for Peru Treks. All members of our group, including our friends, dispersed all over Machu Picchu. We decided to take a break at the entrance cafe before climbing up to the guardhouse once again to take a few more photos of Machu Picchu under the sun. At the lookout, there was a few funny looking llamas grazing the lawn. After a few minutes photographing the friendly llamas, we ventured further out for 15 minutes to see the Inca Bridge.

Back to the lookout, we saw another llama standing on a terrace behind a stone wall peeking at the passing tourists. We slowly walked back to the main entrance and hopped on a bus for Aguas Calientes, where our friends, Freddie and the entire group waited for us at the restaurant reserved for Peru Treks.

Main tourist entrance of Machu Picchu.

More tourists arrived as bus loads of people were transported from the train station at Aguas Calientes below Machu Picchu.

Terraces of the Ceremonial Rock and the surrounding mountains.

Tourist in Machu Picchu.

One of Freddie’s sessions explaining the history of the lost city.

Temple of the Sun was built upon a natural rock, with the mausoleum situated underneath.

Mummy vault (royal tomb) at Temple of the Sun

Doorway to Temple of the Sun.

Damage to the stonework of the Main Temple by occasional earthquakes.

The Intihuatana stone on the top of Intiwatana Pyramid.

Terraces on the side of Intiwatana Pyramid.

View towards the Terraces of the Ceremonial Rock.

Llama, Machu Picchu, Una Picchu and Huayna Picchu (mountains behind Machu Picchu).

Urubamba River down at the valley bottom.

The Inca Bridge and part of the original Inca Trail, 15 minutes walk from Machu Picchu.

Curious llama peeking out from the ruins.

Llama in the ruins.

One last classic overview of Machu Picchu before we left the site.

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February 13, 2016 | Categories: Machu Picchu & Inca Trail Hike, Peru, Peru 2010 | Tags: Aguas Calientes, Cusco, Cuzco, Huayna Picchu, Inca, Inca Trail, Intiwatana, llama, Machu Picchu, Peru, sundial, Temple of the Sun, Terraces of Ceremonial Rock, Una Picchu, Urubamba | Leave a comment

WINAY WAYNA TO MACHU PICCHU, Inca Trail, Peru

Last day of the Inca Trail. We got up super early and joined the queue marching towards Machu Picchu. At 05:20 the gate of the final stretch of trail opened and we went in as a group to hike the final 5 km. Despite a little wet, we hiked in a relatively quick pace and felt quite excited. Our destination was Inti Punku (Sun Gate), where we were supposed to get a glimpse of early sunlight shining on the legendary lost city. Though the night of heavy rain brought us another morning of mist, so that scene of golden Machu Picchu at dawn never happened for us. At least it wasn’t raining when we arrived at Inti Punku. We only stopped briefly for a drink, took a few pictures and continued our way marching towards Machu Picchu.

Before entering the legendary ruins, we stopped at the guard house to have a closer overview of Machu Picchu. We stood at the Terraces of the Ceremonial Rock near the guard house and waited for the fog to lift. Magically it did happen in front of our eyes. We could see first the ruins and then later Huayna Picchu, the iconic mountain behind the lost city. After some moments of excitement, we descended to the main entrance. At the main entrance, we used the toilet, stored our day-pack, and had some morning snack before heading back in to Machu Picchu for a tour with our guide Freddie. And then the dog appeared again, which had been mysteriously following our group since we left our first camp site two days ago.

At 5am, we woke up to a grey sky of clouds and fog.

Clouds and fog was still present, but the fog seemed lifting a little by the time we reached Inti Punku (Sun Gate).

Lush green mountains around Machu Picchu.

Llamas and the Terraces of the Ceremonial Rock near the Guardhouse.

From the guard house, Machu Picchu stood right below. We sat on one of the terraces to wait for the fog to lift.

Our group among other trekkers waiting for Machu Picchu to emerge from the mist.

Machu Picchu in the mist.

Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu in the mist.

Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu after some minutes of waiting.

Entrance tickets into Machu Picchu.

And here is the dog that had been mysteriously following our group since we left our first camp site two days ago.

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February 12, 2016 | Categories: Machu Picchu & Inca Trail Hike, Peru, Peru 2010 | Tags: Cusco, Cuzco, Huayna Picchu, Inca, Inti Punku, llama, Machu Picchu, Peru, Sun Gate, Terraces of Ceremonial Rock, Trail | Leave a comment

PACASMAYO TO WINAY WAYNA, Inca Trail, Peru

After a night of rain, it was cloudy and foggy throughout much of the day while we trekked through the cloud forest. This third day of the Inca Trail saw us went past mountain passes with the highest at 3,950m, passed by several Inca ruins, wandered through the Peruvian cloud forest, and descended 1,000m down to the Winay Wayna campsite at 2,650m. The dramatic difference in altitude allowed us to experience the distinct environment between cloud forest and tropical woodlands. After a day of hiking in the humid forest, where heavy mist lingered around tree canopies, we were delighted to reach Winay Wayna, our last campground before reaching Machu Picchu, in late afternoon. Similar to the previous two days, our guide Freddie was always enthusiastic on explaining the history and legends about everything we saw along the way. That evening, we had another rainy night. The campground at Winay Wayna was fully packed with trekkers. We were told that hot showers (fees required) were available, but we rather waited another day until we arrived back at Cusco for a well-deserved hot shower.

Mountains and mist were the first things to greet us in early morning.

5090437132_21417b7677_o It was cloudy and misty throughout much of the day.

The misty landscape was poetic and picturesque.

One of the first Inca ruins we encountered was tampu Runkuraqay.

At certain moments, the scenery looked more tropical than the Andean highlands.

Qunchamarka was another decent Inca ruin down at the valley.

Sayacmarca (3,600m), another impressive Inca ruin that we actually climbed up for a visit.

Sayacmarca could be translated as “Town in a Steep Place”.

After climbing about 100 narrow and steep steps, we reached the main platform of Sayacmarca. We sat down at one of the terraces in the complex, where our guide Freddie explained to us some brief information about the site.