coffee | Blue Lapis Road

WIFE&HUSBAND @ KAMO RIVER (鴨川), Kyoto, Japan

After a vibrant evening of nightlife, most of Pontocho (先斗町) were still in bed by the time we reached the riverside alley during our morning walk. Behind Pontocho, Kamo River (鴨川) glittered under the morning sun. It was probably too cold and too early as not too many people were around at Kamogawa Park (鴨川公園), the park running along both sides of the riverbank. It wasn’t as crowded as we expected, with only occasional joggers and dogwalkers passed by our side. Not a single young couple sitting along the riverbank, nor any fishing enthusiasts trying their luck from the bridges. The summer Nouryou-Yuka dining terraces (納涼床) seemed like distant memories. Cherry trees remained bare, awaiting their moment of spectacle in three months’ time. Yet, pristine water continued to filter through nearby forests and cascade down the shallow river channel, reaching vegetable fields and temizuya pavilions of Shinto shrines near the river. Ducks gathered in groups behind river reeds, while lonely herons stood on river rocks in search of easy preys. Being the most popular hangout area in Kyoto, we always enjoyed visiting Kamo-gawa. Even walking just a stretch of it was for us the most relaxing thing to do in the city. In 2016, we often found ourselves returning to Kamo River every so often. Same thing happened for us in 2022.

Before reaching Downtown Kyoto, Kamo River converges with Takano River at a fork south of Shimogamo Jinja (下鴨神社). Beyond the fork, Kamogawa Park extends further northwest along upstream Kamo River. We came to this part of Kamo River near the Botanical Gardens all because of Wife&Husband, a highly popular coffee shop hidden in an old timber house. Through good coffee, charming antiques, and picnic supplies, the couple Ikumi and Kyoichi Yoshida established a lovely venue that embodies the natural, rejuvenating and timeless spirit of Kyoto. The day was too cold for having picnic at the Kamo, but we still enjoyed our coffee and cake inside the cozy Wife&Husband.

With the main door at Pontocho (先斗町) and its back facing Kamo River, Pontocho Kaburenjo Theatre is the primary performing venue in Kyoto, especially for the traditional *Kabuki* (歌舞伎). [2022.12.27]

Below Sanjo Bridge (三条大橋), Kamogawa Park extends further north towards Kamogawa Delta. [2022.12.27]

Kamogawa Park is probably the most popular hangout area in Kyoto all year round. [2022.12.27]

Outside Wife&Husband, picnic chairs, stools, baskets and mats were available for rent. [2022.12.27]

Filled with the aroma of coffee, the interior of Wife&Husband is cozy and nostalgic. [2022.12.27]

Inside the cafe, timber finishes are everywhere from wall panels, counter edge to door frames. [2022.12.27]

We ended up sitting down at a small table surrounded with antique objects. [2022.12.27]

A tungsten bulb and a small bunch of dried senryo berries were hung above our table. [2022.12.27]

We had some good coffee and delicious cake before leaving Wife&Husband. [2022.12.27]

The entrance to Kamogawa Park was right around the corner from Wife&Husband. [2022.12.27]

A metal plaque shows the extent of Kamogawa Park and the bridges that pass over the riverbank. [2022.12.27]

For most parts, Kamo River has a water depth less than a metre. [2022.12.27]

In early morning, yellow sunlight shines on the buildings along the western riverbank. [2022.12.30]

On a clear day, distant mountains provide the perfect backdrop for Kamo River. [2022.12.30]

There is so much to take in from a morning walk at Kamo River: fresh air, gentle breeze, sound of flowing water, warm sunlight, perfect water reflections, singing birds, etc. [2022.12.30]

As a symbol of strength, *koinobori* (carp kites) are often flown over a river during Children’s Day holiday. [2023.01.01]

Kamogawa Park is popular among local children. [2023.01.01]

Running is gaining popularity throughout the world. Kyoto residents are fortunate enough to have Kamogawa Park to practice their runs. [2023.01.01]

Kamo River is the perfect spot for herons to rest and feed. [2023.01.01]

Literally means “Duck River”, sighting of ducks at Kamo River was almost a guarantee. [2023.01.01]

Kamogawa Park is one of the most essential parks in Kyoto. [2023.01.01]

February 21, 2023 | Categories: Honshu: Kansai Region, Japan, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: antique, cafe, cat, coffee, delta, dog, duck, 鴨川, 鴨川公園, Kabuki, Kamo, koinobori, Kyoto, picnic, Pontocho, river, 先斗町, 歌舞伎 | Leave a comment

ARCADES & TEMPLES, Nishiki Market (錦市場) & Teramachi Shopping Street (寺町通商店街), Kyoto, Japan

No matter in Rome, Buenos Aires or Hong Kong, taking morning walks is always one of our most enjoyable ways to appreciate a city. With an ever-present tranquility, elegance and otherworldliness, Kyoto is perfect for a morning stroll, especially to appreciate the beautiful tones of aged timber, indigo shingles and seasonal vegetation all under the crisp air of surrounding mountains. And what’s best to start a morning walk? For us, it’s a cup of good coffee. Tucked in a corner of an almost unnoticeable parking lot a block away from Nishiki Market (錦市場), a tiny coffee shop successfully captured our attention with its rich aroma and lovely ambience. Housed in an old machiya house, Weekenders Coffee provokes memories of a traditional kissaten (喫茶店) where writers and intellectuals in the old days gathered for a cup of tea or coffee. Opened since 2005, Weekenders was one of the first espresso shops in Kyoto. At Weekenders, a few customers may gather at the forecourt sipping coffee while resting the eyes upon a tiny Japanese garden. This was exactly what we did: sitting in front of the coffee shop at 7:30 in the morning, sniffing in fresh morning air and coffee aroma, and being enchanted with the pleasure of life.

At Nishiki Market, pickle vendors and fishmongers were busy setting up their stores. Laughter and giggles could be heard behind the counter of a tamagoyaki (Japanese rolled omelette) shop, where a team of staff were busy making omelettes for the day. It was still way too early to taste the food and shop for grocery at the iconic 400-year-old market. Unlike the crowded scenes during our 2016 visit, this time we almost had Nishiki all by ourselves. At the eastern end of where the market met Teramachi Shopping Street, we were once again attracted by the lanterns of Nishiki-Tenmangu Shrine (錦天満宮) just like in 2016. Headed north from the shrine, we entered the arcade of Teramachi Shopping Street (寺町通商店街), a famous destination for both locals and tourists.

Literally means “Temple Town Street”, Teramachi (寺町通) has much more to offer than a covered arcade both sides flanked by shops. In 1590, 80 or so Buddhist temples from the area were relocated to Teramachi. It was Toyotomi Hideyoshi (豊臣秀吉), the powerful daimyo (feudal lord) or de facto ruler of Japan, who ordered the move during Sengoku period (戦国時代) in the late 16th century. In the subsequent centuries, stores selling books, Buddhist rosaries, medicine, stationery, handicrafts and clothing flourished and gradually developed into the present arcades. Today, in the midst of shops, restaurants, and entertainment facilities, places of worship and even small graveyards maintain a strong presence at Teramachi, with temple entrances open right next to boutiques and stores. While most shops on Teramachi and the adjacent Shinkyogoku Shopping Street (新京極商店街) had yet opened for business, we took the opportunity to do some temple hopping while window shopping at the same time.

Hidden in a corner of a neighborhood parking lot, Weekenders Coffee offers great coffee in a traditional setting. [2022.12.27]

The coffee aroma goes well with the traditional *machiya* setting. [2022.12.27]

Weekenders Coffee is the perfect place to start the day. [2022.12.27]

The tiny forecourt has a certain zen quality that calms every customer. [2022.12.27]

A marvelous cup of latte to start our first full day in Kyoto. [2022.12.27]

After Weekenders, we walked over to Nishiki, the 400 year old market at the heart of Kyoto. [2022.12.27]

We came too early. Most shops at Nishiki Market had yet opened for business. [2022.12.27]

Staff at Miki Keiran (三木鶏卵) *tamagoyaki* (Japanese rolled omelette) shop were busy preparing omelettes for the day. [2022.12.27]

Unlike 2016’s visit, we didn’t eat or buy anything at Nishiki Market. [2022.12.27]

Nishiki-Tenmangu Shrine (錦天満宮) marks the eastern end of Nishiki Market. [2022.12.27]

The lanterns of Nishiki-Tenmangu Shrine forms a lovely gateway to the shrine compound. [2022.12.27]

*Nade-ushi*, the cow messenger associated with the deity of Tenjin, the god of scholarship, is proudly on display at Nishiki-Tenmangu Shrine. [2022.12.27]

Nishiki-Tenmangu Shrine is full of fine details and elegant offerings. [2022.12.27]

It was surprising to see red maple leaves were still around at the end of December. [2022.12.27]

From Nishiki-Tenmangu Shrine, we turned north onto Teramachi Shopping Street. [2022.12.27]

Perhaps it was the cold weather, we were quite hungry as we walked. We stopped briefly at a local bakery chain store Pan-no-Tajima (パンの田島) for a quick breakfast before continuing our walk. [2022.12.27]

Along with the adjacent Shinkyogoku Shopping Street (新京極商店街), the covered arcade of Teramachi (寺町通) offers a wide range of merchandises, from clothing, books, souvenirs to religious goods. [2022.12.27]

The covered arcades also serve as a primary entertainment district for the younger generation. [2022.12.27]

Selfie backdrops for New Year celebration could be found at a number of spots in the shopping arcades. [2022.12.27]

Wandering at the shopping arcade in early morning when most shops were still shuttered offer us a quiet moment to admire the visual complexity of the retail district. [2022.12.27]

Literally means “Temple Town Street”, Teramachi (寺町通) is home to many temples and shrines since Toyotomi Hideyoshi relocated a large group of religious institutions into Downtown Kyoto four hundred years ago. [2022.12.27]

Thanks to the red banners, Eifuku-ji Temple (永福寺) and Takoyakushi-dō (蛸薬師堂) is one of many temples relocated to Teramachi Shopping Street 400 years ago. [2022.12.27]

Behind a few clothing stores we found the entrance of Seishin-in Temple (誠心院), and a cheerful selfie backdrop to welcome New Year visitors. [2022.12.27]

In such close proximity to the busy shopping arcades, it was a surprise to find a cemetery behind Seishin-in. [2022.12.27]

The cemetery at Seishin-in appeared like a tranquil backyard for the temple. [2022.12.27]

The triangular Rokkun Plaza (ろっくんプラザ) is a well known meeting point at the heart of the shopping arcades. [2022.12.27]

January 27, 2023 | Categories: Honshu: Kansai Region, Japan, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: arcade, ろっくんプラザ, coffee, 錦天満宮, 錦市場, 蛸薬師堂, 誠心院, 豊臣秀吉, Japan, Kyoto, machiya, market, Miki Keiran, Nishiki, Pan-no-Tajima, Rokkun Plaza, Seishin-in, Shinkyogoku, shopping, Shrine, Takoyakushi-dō, Temple, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, 商店街, 寺町通, 新京極, 永福寺, 三木鶏卵 | Leave a comment

LEGACY OF TRIANGULAR PIER: Hoi On Cafe (海安咖啡室), Sheung Wan (上環), Hong Kong

On 30th October 2021, Hoi On Cafe (海安咖啡室) opened its doors one last time to serve the Sheung Wan community. “Hoi On”, literally means “safe at sea”, was a traditional cha chaan teng (茶餐廳) or Hong Kong style cafe established by Wong Kiu (黃橋) in 1952. Known as the “Coffee King” and founder of Tsit Wing Coffee Company (捷榮咖啡), Wong was a well known figure in the coffee trading industry. His decadents still control a whopping 80% of coffee bean wholesale in the city. Began as a small cafe offering simple meals and refreshments for seamen and dockworkers from the Triangular Pier area, Hoi On had eventually outlasted all the surrounding piers. As time goes by, Hoi On became a sole survivor from a bygone era on Connaught Road West. Its retro shopfront and four-storey building stood out from the adjacent buildings. In the past few years, it was a common sight to see customers queuing up outside their glass door during breakfast hours and weekends. In the cafe, young visitors and tourists often took photos of their dishes before moving their forks, while loyal customers chit-chatted with the staff about everyday matters. It was hard to imagine that just over a decade ago, Hoi On was battling for its survival. Its change of fortune in recent years was largely due to efforts from the Au Yeung siblings, whose father was the second owner and former staff of Wong Kiu. From an aging establishment serving mainly elderly customers, the Au Yeung siblings successfully rejuvenated the cafe into a hub for nostalgic tourists, celebrating its community history, friendly ambience, and vintage decor. While preserving the old, the siblings also introduced a more diverse and innovative menu, and higher hygiene standards. Their efforts triumphantly turned Hoi On into an Internet sensation, and a mecca for the search of collective memories from a lost Hong Kong.

Despite knowing their name for quite a while, it wasn’t until we moved to Central/ Sheung Wan in 2019 that we paid our first visit to Hoi On. Maybe it was the nostalgic ambience, or the convincing quality of food, or the relatively tidy interiors given its age, we immediately fell in love with the cafe. Hoi On was not the closest cha chaan teng from our home, but it was one of our favorites. It even made us getting up earlier to make a breakfast detour before going to work. Given their busy scenes, affirmative online comments and media coverage, few would have predicted that Hoi On could suddenly close for good. Many netizens expressed sadness to the news. Some old customers (including ones from Taiwan and Malaysia) even offered to take over the business. Many thought it was due to an unreasonable rent increase, but according to some online sources, that wasn’t the case here. It was a personal decision from the owners. Bidding farewell to an community icon is always difficult, but we respect the owners’ decision, and admire their heartfelt efforts for writing a brilliant finale for the age-old business. Hong Kong is never a place known for permanence. Seizing the moment to enjoy while it lasts is always the key for living in an ever-changing place. As customers and members of the Central/ Sheung Wan community, we are grateful that Hoi On has left us some fond memories, no matter how brief our encounter was.

Before land reclamation of the 1970’s, the waterfront of Sheung Wan was always busy with dockworkers. [Street food stalls selling sweetmeats, Praya, Hong Kong, around 1910. Photograph by Henry Rue. Image courtesy of SOAS, Historical Photographs of China HR01-077, University of Bristol Library (www.hpcbristol.net), (CC BY_NC_ND 4.0)]

A poster in Hoi On Cafe reminded customers of its history and the old Sheung Wan waterfront. [2020]

As most shop signage are made with computer fonts nowadays, even the Chinese calligraphy of “Hoi On Cafe” at the cafe door have become precious remnant from the past. [2020]

Nothing fancy, the cakes, tarts and buns of Hoi On were good representatives of the traditional taste. [2020]

The wooden banquette seating and furniture articulated a certain vintage ambience. [2020]

For a 70 year old *cha chaan teng*, tidiness at Hoi On was very well maintained, especially if compared to other decades old cafes in the city. [2020]

Diversification and evolution of the traditional *cha chaan teng* dishes greatly contributed to the renaissance of Hoi On in its final decade. [2020]

Neat presentation and fresh ingredients of Hoi On’s dishes captured the attention of foreign tourists and young foodies. [2020]

Turning a traditional Hong Kong style French toast into mini toast and topping instant noodles with BBQ pork and beef were some of their lovely twists to an old menu. [2021]

The BBQ pork and beef noodles often sold out quickly. [2021]

Many furniture pieces at Hoi On had become antiques. [2020]

Old telephone and signage that says “spitting is prohibited” became parts of the vintage decor of the cafe. [2020]

A metal fan belonged to the age before air conditioning. [2020]

In its last decade, Hoi On had become popular among the younger generation. Apart from smartphone snapshots, some of them had used their own ways to document the lovely cafe. [2020]

Without the nostalgic shutter and eye catching signage of Hoi On, this stretch of Connaught Road West would never be the same again. [2020]

After the closure of Hoi On, their iconic red signage has been taken off the building canopy. [2022]

Despite the closure of Hoi On Cafe, the four storey building silently remains on Connaught Road West, awaiting for the next tenant. [2022]

March 16, 2022 | Categories: Central, Sheung Wan & Sai Wan, HK Island, Hong Kong | Tags: cafe, cha chaan teng, coffee, 茶餐廳, 黃橋, Hoi On, Hong Kong, pier, restaurant, Sheung Wan, Triangular Pier, 海安 | Leave a comment

KHAN EL-KHALILI SOUQ, Cairo, Egypt

2006.05.30.

If not the summer heat, wandering in Islamic Cairo around the huge Khan el-Khalili market would be the most ideal way to enjoy Old Cairo. Even without entering mosques or museums, just strolling around to feel the bustling activities, hearing the calls of prayer mingled with the yells of merchants, smelling the shisha smoke and Arabian coffee from open cafes, and searching for the highly decorative details on centuries old building facade was just a pure delight.

As the largest and most famous souq in the region, it is understandable that Khan el-Khalili has been developed into a major tourist attraction in Cairo. It was precisely the souq’s popularity among tourists that made it falling victim as a target of terrorist attacks. In 2005, just one year prior to my visit, a suicide bomber detonated an explosive device near the market, killing two French and one American tourists. In 2009, another bombing incident took place at the souq and killed a 17-year-old French girl. These incidents did make some temporary impact to tourism in Egypt. But judging from the tourist crowds that I saw in 2006, just one year after the suicide bombing, the impact was rather minimal. Of course no attacks would make a greater impact to tourism than the Covid 19 pandemic that we are experiencing right now.

The network of alleyways offered me a delightful labyrinth to wander around.

Most tourists come to Khan El-Khalili for souvenirs, handmade carpets silverware, antiques, stained glass lamps, incense, jewellery, copper-ware, and even gold. I spent most of my time strolling around to take pictures.

For me, the area was a great place to get lost and just watch the bustling actions of local people.

The Mosque Madrassa Khanqah at al-Muizz Street near Bayn al-Qasrayn is a popular spot for tourist photos.

Some aggressive shop owners did approach and invite me to enter their shops.

Sitting at the outdoor patio of a coffeehouse was the most comfortable way foe me to enjoy the bustling activities around.

Despite most shops are now catered for tourists, some still maintain their original character selling daily merchandises and spices.

In Cairo, one of the most sought-after souvenir is the handcrafted metal lantern.

Beyond market stalls and shops, I would from time to time be amazed by some beautiful architecture that had stood for centuries.

Especially in al-Muizz Street where buildings with ornate details have been well preserved.

From time to time, I would unintentionally return to the same spot more than one occasion, including the Mosque Madrassa Khanqah at al-Muizz Street.

Without notice, the sun was getting low and shadows were lengthening.

Despite getting late, the market was still packed with shoppers, tourists and merchants.

From time to time I would hear the loud speakers from nearby mosques calling for prayer.

In the side alleyways away from the main shopping streets, the peaceful neighborhood setting was like another world.

Wandering in the Khan el-Khalili area was a delight for me. Every turn at alleyways or brief stop along the way showed me a unique picture of Cairo from what seemed to be a bygone era.

November 13, 2020 | Categories: Africa: Middle East, Cairo, Giza & Memphis, Egypt, Middle East 2006 | Tags: Cairo, coffee, Egypt, Islam, Islamic, Khan el-Khalili, lantern, Madrassa Khanqah, market, marketplace, mosque, Muizz, shopping, souk, souq, spice, tea | Leave a comment

MORIHICO COFFEE (森彦珈琲本店), Sapporo (札幌), Hokkaido (北海道), Japan, 2019.06.24

Day 10 (2/6).

Not far from the Maruyama Park, we arrived at an old wooden house with white sidings and red shingles. This is the original Morihico Coffee established in 1996. Now, Morihico has become one of the most successful coffee shop brand in Sapporo. Despite all the new and sleek shops in other areas of the city, we preferred to visit the original Morihico Coffee: home made pastries and home roasted coffee in a mellow timber house covered with lush green ivy in the old Maruyama neighborhood.

Timber signage of Morihico Coffee mingles with the lush green ivy.

Located in an old timber house in Maruyama, the origin shop of Morihico Coffee has been around since 1996.

The coffee shop seems like a small barn house in the countryside somewhere in the North America.

The signage, ivy and fire wood go well together.

The shop is two storey high with most seating on the upper floor.

The lower floor is dominated by the cafe counter.

Though small, the upper floor is well lit with natural light through the lush green ivy.

Everything in the cafe look vintage.

Interesting artwork on the wall.

Interior decorations at Cafe Morihico.

Signs on the wall remind tourists of the cafe etiquette.

The homemade pastries were delicious and fresh.

The coffee was good as expected.

We had an enjoyable breakfast at Cafe Morihico. We were quite impressed and purchased a pack of coffee when we left.

* * *

Introduction
HOKKAIDO ROAD TRIP, Hokkaido (北海道)

Day 1 – from Tokyo to Shiretoko Peninsula
Day 1.1 TSUKIJI OUTER MARKET (築地場外市場)
Day 1.2 ARRIVAL IN SHIRETOKO, Utoro (ウトロ)

Day 2 – Utoro
Day 2.1 SHIRETOKO FIVE LAKES (知床五湖)
Day 2.2 UTORO FISHERMAN’S WIVES CO-OPERATIVE DINER (ウトロ漁協婦人部食堂)
Day 2.3 FUREPE FALLS (フレペの滝)

Day 3 – Rausu
Day 3.1 RUSA FIELD HOUSE (ルサフィールドハウス)
Day 3.2 JUN NO BANYA (純の番屋)

Day 4 – Rausu
Day 4.1 MOUNT RAUSU (羅臼岳)
Day 4.2 FANTASTIC ORCAS, Nemuro Strait (根室海峡)

Day 5 – Lake Mashu & Lake Akan
Day 5.1 SUNRISE AT LAKE MASHU (摩周湖)
Day 5.2 MOUNT MASHU TRAIL (摩周岳) , Teshikaga (弟子屈)
Day 5.3 SILENT NIGHT AT LAKE AKAN (阿寒湖)

Day 6 – On the road from Lake Akan to Furano
Day 6.1 FISHERMEN BELOW MISTY OAKAN (雄阿寒岳), Lake Akan (阿寒湖)
Day 6.2 TREATS OF OBIHIRO (帯広), Tokachi (十勝)
Day 6.3 ARRIVING IN FURANO (富良野)

Day 7 Furano & Biei
Day 7.1 LAVENDER BUDS, Nakafurano (中富良野)
Day 7.2 FARM TOMITA (ファーム富田), Nakafurano (中富良野)
Day 7.3 BI.BLE, Biei (美瑛)
Day 7.4 PATCHWORK ROAD & PANORAMA ROAD, Biei (美瑛)
Day 7.5 NINGLE TERRACE (ニングルテラス)

Day 8 – from Furano to Otaru
Day 8.1 CHURCH ON THE WATER (水の教会), Hoshino Resorts Tomamu (星野リゾートトマム)
Day 8.2 HILL OF THE BUDDHA (頭大仏), Makomanai Takino Cemetery (真駒内滝野霊園)
Day 8.3 SEAFOOD, CANAL, & HISTORY, Otaru (小樽)
Day 8.4 RAINY NIGHT IN OTARU, Otaru (小樽)

Day 9 – Yochi & Sapporo
Day 9.1 NIKKA YOICHI DISTILLERY (余市蒸溜所), Yoichi (余市)
Day 9.2 SOUP CURRY NIGHT

Day 10 – Sapporo
10.1 OKKAIDO SHRINE (北海道神宮 )
10.2 MORIHICO COFFEE (森彦珈琲本店)
10.3 KITAKARO SAPPORO HONKAN (北菓楼札幌本館)
10.4 SATURDAYS CHOCOLATE
10.5 GOTSUBO OYSTER BAR(五坪)
10.6 MOUNT MOIWA (藻岩山) & RAMEN HARUKA (ラーメン悠)

Day 11 – Sapporo
11.1 FORMER HOKKAIDO GOVERNMENT OFFICE (北海道庁旧本庁舎)
11.2 RED STAR & GENGKIS KHAN, Sapporo Beer Museum (サッポロビール株式会社)

December 26, 2019 | Categories: Hokkaido, Japan, Japan: Hokkaido 2019, Sapporo | Tags: cafe, coffee, 珈琲, Hokkaido, Japan, Japanese, Morihico, Sapporo, 北海道, 札幌, 森彦 | Leave a comment

NINGLE TERRACE (ニングルテラス), Furano (富良野), Hokkaido (北海道), Japan, 2019.06.21

Day 7 (5/5).

After rolling hills of wheat fields and floral farms, it was about time for us to leave Furano. Before calling it a day, we decided to end the day with a final touch of fairytale like fantasy. Hidden in the forest adjacent to Prince Hotel Furano, the Ningle Terrace is consisted of fifteen shops housed in small fairytale like timber houses. These houses are more than just cute eye candles. Each shop is occupied by a local craftsman selling his or her unique handicrafts. Owing to the power of the famous scriptwriter Sou Kuramoto (倉本聰), the Ningle Terrace has become another attraction in Hokkaido related to his creative talents. Used as the film set for one of Kuramoto’s work, deep in the forest Coffee Mori no Tokei (珈琲森の時計) has become a pilgrimage site for his fans.

It was our final evening in Furano. We decided to sought after a magical finale.

Before entering the forest of Ningle Terrace, we stopped by the interesting gift shop selling products related to Sou Kuramoto (倉本聰).

15 shops make up the beautiful Ningle Terrace.

The atmosphere of the Ningle Terrace was quite romantic with the lighting.

Deep in the forest stands Coffee Mori no Tokei (珈琲森の時計), a filming place for one of Sou Kuramoto’s (倉本聰) work.

The interior of Coffee Mori no Tokei (珈琲森の時計) looks quite surreal.

Coffee Mori no Tokei (珈琲森の時計) wasn’t full, but it was impossible for us to find a seat at the central communal table.

At Coffee Mori no Tokei (珈琲森の時計), the central communal table is reserved for coffee lovers who wish to grind their own beans and make their own coffee.

Other than coffee, we also ordered a light dinner to end our day at Coffee Mori no Tokei (珈琲森の時計).

* * *

Introduction
HOKKAIDO ROAD TRIP, Hokkaido (北海道)

Day 1 – from Tokyo to Shiretoko Peninsula
Day 1.1 TSUKIJI OUTER MARKET (築地場外市場)
Day 1.2 ARRIVAL IN SHIRETOKO, Utoro (ウトロ)

Day 2 – Utoro
Day 2.1 SHIRETOKO FIVE LAKES (知床五湖)
Day 2.2 UTORO FISHERMAN’S WIVES CO-OPERATIVE DINER (ウトロ漁協婦人部食堂)
Day 2.3 FUREPE FALLS (フレペの滝)

Day 3 – Rausu
Day 3.1 RUSA FIELD HOUSE (ルサフィールドハウス)
Day 3.2 JUN NO BANYA (純の番屋)

Day 4 – Rausu
Day 4.1 MOUNT RAUSU (羅臼岳)
Day 4.2 FANTASTIC ORCAS, Nemuro Strait (根室海峡)

Day 5 – Lake Mashu & Lake Akan
Day 5.1 SUNRISE AT LAKE MASHU (摩周湖)
Day 5.2 MOUNT MASHU TRAIL (摩周岳) , Teshikaga (弟子屈)
Day 5.3 SILENT NIGHT AT LAKE AKAN (阿寒湖)

Day 9 – Yochi & Sapporo
Day 9.1 NIKKA YOICHI DISTILLERY (余市蒸溜所), Yoichi (余市)
Day 9.2 SOUP CURRY NIGHT

Day 11 – Sapporo
11.1 FORMER HOKKAIDO GOVERNMENT OFFICE (北海道庁旧本庁舎)
11.2 RED STAR & GENGKIS KHAN, Sapporo Beer Museum (サッポロビール株式会社)

December 8, 2019 | Categories: Furano and Biei, Hokkaido, Japan, Japan: Hokkaido 2019 | Tags: ニングルテラス, coffee, craft, 珈琲森の時計, forest, Furano, handicraft, Hokkaido, Japan, Japanese, Mori no Tokei, Ningle, shopping, Sou Kuramoto, terrace, 倉本聰, 北海道, 富良野 | Leave a comment

TREATS OF OBIHIRO (帯広), Tokachi (十勝), Hokkaido (北海道), Japan, 2019.06.20

Day 6 (2/3).

From Lake Akan (阿寒湖) to Nakafurano (中富良野) where we would stay two nights to explore the rolling hills and farmlands of Furano (富良野) and Biei (美瑛), we drove by Tokachi (十勝), a subprefecture in Central Hokkaido best known for its dairy and agricultural products such as wheat and red beans. Also known as the land of cheese, some say Tokachi produces about 60% of Japanese cheese. We didn’t plan to stay in Tokachi, but did make a stop in the subprefecture’s only city, Obihiro (帯広). There was only one reason: to sample the delicious food of the region. We weren’t after any fancy kaiseki ryori or seafood feast, but simple local dishes that make use of the best local ingredients of Tokachi.

There is nothing simpler to experience the best of Tokachi (十勝) than have a cup of fresh local milk.

In Obihiro, we made a first stop to Amamuekie, a simple pastry shop housed in a cool container. Originally worked in the music industry, the husband and wife of Iwamoto family (岩本夫妻) turned their interest in nature and healthy food and opened Amamuekie.

At Amamuekie, healthy pastry made with plant based ingredients without the use of white sugar and animal ingredients such as dairy and eggs are sold, including this cocoa pound cake made with rice flour.

We picked up several items from Amamuekie, including this hojicha (green tea) biscotti, a tasty fusion of east meets west.

On our way to Obihiro, we made our second stop at Sweet Factory Green, a delightful sweets shop in the small town of Otofuke (音更町).

The cakes, chocolate and ice-cream were all so tempting.

Causal seating were provided on the lawn next to the sweets shop.

Sun was high and sky was blue, what a perfect moment to enjoy local ice-cream, a piece of fruit cake and a cup of good coffee.

Finally we arrived in downtown Obihiro (帯広), and parked our car in one of the outdoor parking lot near the main train station.

It took us a little while to figure out the correct procedure to activate the parking sensor for our stall.

Our destination, Butadon Pancho (元祖豚丼), situates right across the street from Obihiro Railway Station.

Butadon Pancho (元祖豚丼) offers just one thing in the menu: Butadon (豚丼) or pork bowl. After about 20 minutes in the queue, we finally got a small table in the small restaurant. Founded in 1933, Butadon Pancho claims to be the pioneer restaurant that offered butadon.

Originated from Obihiro, butadon is basically a bowl of rice served with several pieces of local pork, topped with sweet soy sauce and green peas. The bowl also comes with takuan (沢庵) or pickled daikon radish and miso soup. Nothing fancy, just a simple local dish but made a perfect lunch for us.

After a little over an hour on the road, we arrived at Hoshino Resorts Tomamu, a vast resort compound that offers a variety of activities for visitors, from skiing in winter to hiking in summer.

The main reason coming to Tomamu was to check out the famous Chapel on the Water by architect Tadao Ando.

Unfortunately, the opening times of the chapel was quite limited. Quite often, the chapel is occupied for private wedding ceremonies. We had to leave it for another time, and moved on on our journey to Furano, where we would stay for the night.