We frequented Sai Kung Peninsula to visit its pristine beaches, hike on some of Hong Kong’s best trails, appreciate the awesome mix of manmade and natural wonders, or hop from island to island in the Mirs Bay. But there was one time we went to this “Back Garden of Hong Kong” not for its natural beauty, but for the cultural heritage of its Boat People and Hakka communities. A few days after we visited Tsing Yi Bamboo Theatre, we found ourselves once again in a community festival dedicated to Tin Hau, the Goddess of the Sea. This time, we arrived at Sai Kung Town, a seafood paradise and transportation hub that we often pass by on our way to other destinations in the area. Celebrations of Tin Hau Festival (天后誕) began at Tin Hau & Hip Tin Temple (天后古廟及協天大帝廟), a lovely historical complex dedicated to both Tin Hau and Kwan Tai (關帝), the God of War and Righteousness. Similar to other traditional festivals in Hong Kong, colourful flower plaques (花牌) were the first things we saw as we approached the temple and festival ground. In front of the temple, a large bamboo theatre was erected to house performances of Shen Gong opera (神功戲), the ritual operas dedicated to the deity.
On the slope behind the temple, the former Sai Kung Primary School was temporarily converted into a visitor centre, displaying cultural heritage of the community and Tin Hau Festival. Despite modest in size, it was fun to wander around the former school complex, from courtyards to classrooms where festival artefacts were put on display. Apart from the former school complex, two streets near the temple were blocked off to host a community fair. Among vendors selling jewellery, confections, wine, sake, stalls selling ready-to-eat snacks like grilled meat skewers and bubble tea seemed to be more popular. After indulging ourselves with local snacks, night had already fallen upon. We stopped by the bamboo theatre once again to have a peek of the Cantonese Opera. Actors with traditional makeups and ornate costumes were performing on stage a famous scene from the “Romance of the Three Kingdoms” (三國演義). Outside the theatre, crowds at the street fair had thinned out a little bit, probably many had already gone home for dinner.
Large flower plaques commemorating Tin Hau Festival (天后誕) were set up in front of the Tin Hau & Hip Tin Temple (天后古廟及協天大帝廟). [2023.05]Apart from Tin Hau, half of the temple is dedicated to Kwan Tai (關帝), the God of War and Righteousness. [2023.05]Many locals who grew up in the former fishing communities still worship Tin Hau today. [2023.05]The listed temple building showcases many fine architectural ornaments and details, including the sculpted relief on the roof ridge. [2023.05]Staff were busy preparing the stage while a few locals amused themselves at the seating area. [2023.05]On a slope behind the temple, the former Sai Kung Primary School had been converted into a visitor centre for the festival. [2023.05]The former school complex is consisted of several classrooms and a central courtyard. [2023.05]In each classroom, artefacts and festival props were on display. [2023.05]Ceremonial banners from the temple and former festivals were on display. [2023.05]Old textile banners from a Tin Hau Festival. [2023.05]A fa pau (花炮) or paper floral tribute for Tin Hau on display in front of Sai Kung Primary School. [2023.05]Balloon vendor is a common sight at any fair in Hong Kong. [2023.05]Two nearby streets were blocked off to host a community fair. [2023.05]Many came to the fair for snacks. [2023.05]One of the most popular stalls was the meat skewer vendor. [2023.05]Flower plaques at the parking lot. [2023.05]In the evening, Tin Hau & Hip Tin Temple continued to attract worshipers. [2023.05]A popular scene from the Romance of the Three Kingdoms was performed in the bamboo theatre. [2023.05]Outside the theatre, the crowd began to thin out as night fell upon. [2023.05]Many were heading home for dinner, including us. [2023.05]
Imagine flying a 747 Jumbo Jet in the 1990’s and approaching Hong Kong from the southwest near Cheung Chau Island, where the localizer would be intercepted for the runway and a right turn must be made towards Kai Tak Airport (啟德機場) in the middle of the densely populated Kowloon City, and in front of the range of Kowloon peaks. Due to the mountainous terrain, the IGS (instrument guidance system) was offset from the runway by 47 degrees. Using the red and white Checkerboard Hill in Kowloon Tsai Park as a visual reference, a 47 degree right turn, famously known as the “Hong Kong Turn” or “Checkerboard Turn”, must be made manually upon reaching the hill to avoid crashing into the mountains, and line up the jet with the runway. With less than two nautical miles of distance to manoeuvre the turn, starting from the height of about 650 feet and exited at 140 feet for the final descend onto Runway 13, the move was referred to as the “Kai Tak Heart Attack”. Every decision had to made in a short period of time precisely to avoid causing delays in one of the world’s busiest airport (3rd busiest for passenger and 1st for cargo in 1996). When I was a child, I never thought that the old Kai Tak Airport was special. Upon descending at Kai Tak Airport, I still remember passing over Kowloon City in seemingly touchable distance from building rooftops, seeing the interiors of apartment units and people playing basketball in ball courts. 25 years after the closure of Kai Tak Airport, Kowloon Walled City no longer exists and Kai Tak runway has become a residential district. Standing on the Checkerboard Hill looking south, we could appreciate the impressive operations of Kai Tak Airport and the marvelous skills of the pilots who braved the “Kai Tak Heart Attack”.
At the foot of Checkerboard Hill, Hau Wong Temple (侯王廟) remains as the last surviving remnant from the Kowloon Walled City. Built in 1730, today the temple stands across the street from Kowloon Walled City Park, overlooking the disappeared community it once served as their patron saint. The temple is dedicated to Hau Wong, a loyal follower of the last Emperor of the Southern Song Dynasty who tried to escape the pursuit of Mongols and fled to Kowloon City from the north. The temple consists of a main hall, side chambers, courtyards and a garden. After a descending from Checkerboard Hill, we stumbled upon the beautiful Hau Wong Temple by chance. Apart from the temple’s history related to the walled city, we were also impressed by the temple’s Shiwan ceramic figurines (石灣陶塑) in the courtyards, and the Eighteen Buddha Guardians Lohan (十八羅漢), and Sixty Tai Shui (太歲, Gods of Time).
Standing in Kowloon Tsai Park (九龍仔公園), we could clearly see the Checkerboard Hill in front and Lion Rock beyond. [2022.11]Recently, the government decided to repaint Checkerboard Hill to its former glory, in commemoration to the former Kai Tak Airport. [2022.11]It’s hard to imagine that just the simple checkerboard pattern would play a major role in guiding the airplanes for Kai Tak Airport. [2022.11]23 years after the closure of Kai Tak Airport, the authority has repainted the red and white pattern on the west and south slopes of the Checkerboard Hill as a reminder of the former airport. [2022.11]Standing merely 98m above Kowloon City, it’s a rather short hike up the Checkerboard Hill. [2022.11]Atop Checkerboard Hill, one can imagine airplanes making a 47 degree turn in mid air right in front of the lookout. [2022.11]The summit marker on Checkerboard Hill is somewhere hidden in the tree shade. [2022.11]Below the lawn of Checkerboard Hill contains a water reservoir constructed in 1960. [2022.11]The top of Checkerboard Hill offers a fine view of the Lion Rock. [2022.11]
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Below Checkerboard Hill, Hau Wong Temple (侯王廟) has been protecting the neighborhood of Kowloon City for over two hundred years. [2022.11]Hau Wong Temple was probably built in 1730 and served as the patron saint for Kowloon Walled City. [2022.11]Historical details include traditional facade murals over the main entrance. [2022.11]The main hall is dedicated to Hau Wong, Kwun Yum Goddess of Mercy, and All Saints. [2022.11]A side chamber contains extensive relief and figurines of the Eighteen Buddha Guardians Lohan (十八羅漢). [2022.11]Many also come to this chamber for worshiping the Sixty Tai Shui (太歲, Gods of Time). [2022.11]The Shiwan ceramic figurines (石灣陶塑) at the courtyard are particularly engaging. [2022.11]Shiwan ceramic figurines (石灣陶塑) at Hau Wong Temple. [2022.11]We stayed quite a while at the small courtyard to examine the Shiwan ceramic figurines. [2022.11]Dated from 1888, the stone inscription of “鶴” (crane) has been guarding the back of the temple for more than a century. [2022.11]
In Downtown Kyoto, behind the commercial blocks on Karasuma-dori (烏丸通り) stands a hexagonal temple structure. Erected long before the surrounding buildings, Chōhō-ji (頂法寺), which commonly known as Rokkaku-dō (六角堂) – the Hexagonal Hall, was hidden from plain sight along the main street. We walked by the area several times but didn’t notice its presence until the morning when we returned from Higashiyama. Rokkaku-dō is loved by the locals not only for its 800-years of history, but also for the heritage of Ikebana or kadō (華道), the traditional art of flower arrangement dated back for centuries. In 538 AD, Buddhism was introduced into Japan. Instead of causally placing flowers in a vase upon the Buddhist altar, the Japanese took one step further by giving series considerations on the floral arrangement. Early flower arrangement emerged from an effort to place offering flowers in a proper and upright position. Throughout centuries, it further developed into an elegant way of living, an attitude attentive to details, and had become one of the three classical arts of Japan. Ikenobō (池坊), the biggest and oldest school of ikebana, is based at Rokkaku-dō since the 15th century. Ikenobō began when the 12th abbot of the temple created a method of flower arrangement as an offering to Kannon, the goddess of mercy at the temple. That’s why Rokkaku-dō is considered as the birthplace of Ikebana. We heard there is also the Ikebana Museum and Ikenobo Headquarters nearby, but we just spent time wandering in the temple garden and taking in the spiritual ambience that nurtures the development of a traditional art.
In the afternoon, we took a break from temples and shrines by hopping on a train to Osaka. We specifically wanted to check out the denim stores of the Osaka Five. In the postwar years, American influence was evident in many aspects in Japanese life, from food to film, music to fashion. Against the economic boom in the 1970’s and 1980’s, the pursuit of a rebellious youth and spirit of Americana was popular in Japan. As a symbol of freedom and rebellion since the days of James Dean, high quality jeans from America found a growing demand in Japan. However, high quality denim products gradually became rare in America since 1970’s when the denim industry shifted to mass production on projectile looms. Despite of the gradual drop of quality, a small group of denim enthusiasts continued to bring high quality denim into Japan by introducing vintage denim from America. And when vintage became too expensive and rare, they decided to reinvent heirloom denim in Japan that combined the traditions of American denim with local dyeing and weaving techniques and attention to details. Known as the Osaka Five, namely Studio d’Artisan, Full Count, Warehouse & Co, Denime, and Evisu, this small group of enthusiasts branched out into five small companies based in Osaka. Not only did they transformed the denim scene for Japan, but also reintroduce their take on selvedge denim to the world. During our time in Osaka, We ended up spending most of the time at Studio d’Artisan in Minamihorie (南堀江), and a nearby store that carried Full Count. By the time we reached Warehouse & Co, shops were beginning to close their doors due to the New Year’s holiday.
Back down to Gion from Kiyomizu-dera, we crossed Kamo River once again, stopped by Ayanokoji Bridge (綾小路橋) to contemplate the tranquil Takase River. [2022.12.30]The red berries that are often associated with the New Year could be found all over Kyoto. [2022.12.30]Traditional aesthetics of the Japanese culture is noticeable everywhere in Kyoto. [2022.12.30]Behind the commercial buildings on Karasuma-dori stands the beautiful Rokkaku-dō (六角堂) – the Hexagonal Hall. [2022.12.30]As the place of origin of Ikenobō (池坊), the largest and oldest school for Ikebana, [2022.12.30]Despite small in scale, the hexagonal design makes Rokkaku-dō a unique place of worship. Furthermore, it is often considered as the very centre of the city of Kyoto. [2022.12.30]Despite founded in 587 AD, the current Rokkaku-dō building was erected in 1876. [2022.12.30]Statues of deity Jizo (地藏王) can be found all over the complex. They were erected to remove pain and grant wishes for worshipers. [2022.12.30]Jizo statues often come with warm smiles and cute faces. [2022.12.30]Sixteen statues of Rakan (阿羅漢), the enlightened disciples of Buddha, are commonly featured in Zen Buddhist temples since the Edo Period. [2022.12.30]The willow at Rokkaku-dō is famous for making wishes on love relationship. [2022.12.30]Before we hopped on a train for Osaka, we stopped by a D_Mall at Teramachi Shopping Arcade to check out Japanese denim from Kojima (児島) of Kurashiki City (倉敷) in Okayama Prefecture (岡山県). Often considered as the mecca of Japanese denim and indigo dyeing, Kojima’s Jeans Street would be an interesting place to visit for us in the future. [2022.12.30]We haven’t been back to the fashionable Tachibana-dori (Orange Street) of Osaka since 2015. [2022.12.30]Studio d’Artisan is one of the famous Osaka Five. [2022.12.30]A pair of vintage jeans marks the entrance of the Studio d’Artisan shop. [2022.12.30]By the time we arrived at Warehouse & Co, staff were already closing the door. [2022.12.30]After a bowl of satisfying ramen, we slowly walked back to the train station. Festive lights on the main streets of Osaka reminded us that New Year’s Eve was just around the corner. [2022.12.30]Just a short train ride from brought us back from bustling Osaka Umeda to peaceful Kyoto. [2022.12.30]
No matter in Rome, Buenos Aires or Hong Kong, taking morning walks is always one of our most enjoyable ways to appreciate a city. With an ever-present tranquility, elegance and otherworldliness, Kyoto is perfect for a morning stroll, especially to appreciate the beautiful tones of aged timber, indigo shingles and seasonal vegetation all under the crisp air of surrounding mountains. And what’s best to start a morning walk? For us, it’s a cup of good coffee. Tucked in a corner of an almost unnoticeable parking lot a block away from Nishiki Market (錦市場), a tiny coffee shop successfully captured our attention with its rich aroma and lovely ambience. Housed in an old machiya house, Weekenders Coffee provokes memories of a traditional kissaten (喫茶店) where writers and intellectuals in the old days gathered for a cup of tea or coffee. Opened since 2005, Weekenders was one of the first espresso shops in Kyoto. At Weekenders, a few customers may gather at the forecourt sipping coffee while resting the eyes upon a tiny Japanese garden. This was exactly what we did: sitting in front of the coffee shop at 7:30 in the morning, sniffing in fresh morning air and coffee aroma, and being enchanted with the pleasure of life.
At Nishiki Market, pickle vendors and fishmongers were busy setting up their stores. Laughter and giggles could be heard behind the counter of a tamagoyaki (Japanese rolled omelette) shop, where a team of staff were busy making omelettes for the day. It was still way too early to taste the food and shop for grocery at the iconic 400-year-old market. Unlike the crowded scenes during our 2016 visit, this time we almost had Nishiki all by ourselves. At the eastern end of where the market met Teramachi Shopping Street, we were once again attracted by the lanterns of Nishiki-Tenmangu Shrine (錦天満宮) just like in 2016. Headed north from the shrine, we entered the arcade of Teramachi Shopping Street (寺町通商店街), a famous destination for both locals and tourists.
Literally means “Temple Town Street”, Teramachi (寺町通) has much more to offer than a covered arcade both sides flanked by shops. In 1590, 80 or so Buddhist temples from the area were relocated to Teramachi. It was Toyotomi Hideyoshi (豊臣秀吉), the powerful daimyo (feudal lord) or de facto ruler of Japan, who ordered the move during Sengoku period (戦国時代) in the late 16th century. In the subsequent centuries, stores selling books, Buddhist rosaries, medicine, stationery, handicrafts and clothing flourished and gradually developed into the present arcades. Today, in the midst of shops, restaurants, and entertainment facilities, places of worship and even small graveyards maintain a strong presence at Teramachi, with temple entrances open right next to boutiques and stores. While most shops on Teramachi and the adjacent Shinkyogoku Shopping Street (新京極商店街) had yet opened for business, we took the opportunity to do some temple hopping while window shopping at the same time.
Hidden in a corner of a neighborhood parking lot, Weekenders Coffee offers great coffee in a traditional setting. [2022.12.27]The coffee aroma goes well with the traditional machiya setting. [2022.12.27]Weekenders Coffee is the perfect place to start the day. [2022.12.27]The tiny forecourt has a certain zen quality that calms every customer. [2022.12.27]A marvelous cup of latte to start our first full day in Kyoto. [2022.12.27]After Weekenders, we walked over to Nishiki, the 400 year old market at the heart of Kyoto. [2022.12.27]We came too early. Most shops at Nishiki Market had yet opened for business. [2022.12.27]Staff at Miki Keiran (三木鶏卵) tamagoyaki (Japanese rolled omelette) shop were busy preparing omelettes for the day. [2022.12.27]Unlike 2016’s visit, we didn’t eat or buy anything at Nishiki Market. [2022.12.27]Nishiki-Tenmangu Shrine (錦天満宮) marks the eastern end of Nishiki Market. [2022.12.27]The lanterns of Nishiki-Tenmangu Shrine forms a lovely gateway to the shrine compound. [2022.12.27]Nade-ushi, the cow messenger associated with the deity of Tenjin, the god of scholarship, is proudly on display at Nishiki-Tenmangu Shrine. [2022.12.27]Nishiki-Tenmangu Shrine is full of fine details and elegant offerings. [2022.12.27]It was surprising to see red maple leaves were still around at the end of December. [2022.12.27]From Nishiki-Tenmangu Shrine, we turned north onto Teramachi Shopping Street. [2022.12.27]Perhaps it was the cold weather, we were quite hungry as we walked. We stopped briefly at a local bakery chain store Pan-no-Tajima (パンの田島) for a quick breakfast before continuing our walk. [2022.12.27]Along with the adjacent Shinkyogoku Shopping Street (新京極商店街), the covered arcade of Teramachi (寺町通) offers a wide range of merchandises, from clothing, books, souvenirs to religious goods. [2022.12.27]The covered arcades also serve as a primary entertainment district for the younger generation. [2022.12.27]Selfie backdrops for New Year celebration could be found at a number of spots in the shopping arcades. [2022.12.27]Wandering at the shopping arcade in early morning when most shops were still shuttered offer us a quiet moment to admire the visual complexity of the retail district. [2022.12.27]Literally means “Temple Town Street”, Teramachi (寺町通) is home to many temples and shrines since Toyotomi Hideyoshi relocated a large group of religious institutions into Downtown Kyoto four hundred years ago. [2022.12.27]Thanks to the red banners, Eifuku-ji Temple (永福寺) and Takoyakushi-dō (蛸薬師堂) is one of many temples relocated to Teramachi Shopping Street 400 years ago. [2022.12.27]Behind a few clothing stores we found the entrance of Seishin-in Temple (誠心院), and a cheerful selfie backdrop to welcome New Year visitors. [2022.12.27]In such close proximity to the busy shopping arcades, it was a surprise to find a cemetery behind Seishin-in. [2022.12.27]The cemetery at Seishin-in appeared like a tranquil backyard for the temple. [2022.12.27]The triangular Rokkun Plaza (ろっくんプラザ) is a well known meeting point at the heart of the shopping arcades. [2022.12.27]
Apartment blocks mushroom in clusters north of Kwun Tong’s MTR viaduct all the way to the slopes of Sau Mau Ping and Lam Tin, where stone quarries once dominated the skyline of Kowloon East. With 59,000 persons per square kilometre (2016), Kwun Tong is the most densely populated district in Hong Kong. Since the first public housing was erected in late 1950’s, Kwun Tong has become home to many public housing estates: Ngau Tau Kok (牛頭角邨), Lam Tin (藍田邨), Sau Mau Ping (秀茂坪邨), just to name a few. At the neighborhood centre lies Yue Man Square (裕民坊), the former commercial heart, and Shui Wo Street Market (瑞和街街市), the bustling street market that fascinates me every time I walk by the area. While Shui Wo Street Market remains as busy as decades ago, the original Yue Man Square is all but gone, giving way to new shopping malls and glassy towers. Beyond the vibrancy, noises, and dust, I was surprised to find pockets of breathing spaces beyond the crowded streets of Kwun Tong while exploring the area. Be it a decades old temple that was left untouched and hidden from plain sight throughout all these years of urban transformations, or forgotten reservoir structures that were left for decay in a lush green ravine, these peaceful corners have been serving as peaceful “backyards” for local residents, and any curious outsider who chooses to explore Kwun Tong beyond its shopping malls.
Surrounded by apartment blocks of Tsui Ping Estate (翠屏邨) and several school compounds, traditional Tai Wong Yeh Temple (大王爺廟) sits on a slope that is invisible from the streets below. Meandering between groups of school kids and elderly at the covered plazas of Tsui Ping Estate just minutes ago, entering the tranquil temple complex felt like going into an hidden retreat. During my brief visit, I was the only visitor and was free to wander around the temple complex all by myself. Clustered over a slope on three terraces, the complex was erected in 1958 as a replacement of an earlier temple in Lok Fu. I took my time to check out the colouful wall reliefs around the temple. Reliefs of a tiger and dragon particularly captured my attention. They may not be the most exquisite artworks found in galleries, but nevertheless they are valuable relics of the old Kwun Tong, from a time when skillful mural artisans were much more common.
North of Lok Wah Estate (樂華邨), lush green Jordan Valley (佐敦谷) wraps along the northern boundary of Kwun Tung. It is at Jordan Valley that the 648,541 (2016) Kwun Tong residents can cool themselves off at a 1.7 hectare swimming compound, hike in forested trails, picnic on park lawns, exercise in public playgrounds and ball courts, under the shadow of the majestic Kowloon Peak (飛鵝山). What fascinates me is that much of these pleasant green spaces and recreational facilities were once occupied by 16 blocks of social housing apartments known as Jordan Valley Estate (佐敦谷邨). In 1990’s, the former colonial government decided to tear down the housing estate and replace it with the much needed public recreational facilities of Kwun Tong. This was the only time in Hong Kong where a public housing estate was torn down and not replaced by taller apartment blocks. Perched above Jordan Valley, a red running track awaits anyone who is willing to hike up to the secret getaway of Kwun Tong High Level Service Reservoir Playground (觀塘上配水庫遊樂場). Attracted by photos of the running track against the dramatic backdrop of a ruined reservoir wall and Kowloon Peak, I braved the summer heat to climb up the hill for the relatively little-known scenery. On the way up, I passed by the main dam of the former Jordan Valley Reservoir, a decommissioned facility that once supplied Kwun Tong with seawater for flushing. Completed in 1960, the reservoir ceased operations in early 1980’s and was subsequently filled up. Today, apart from elderly residents or the few who come to exercise at the dam or running track, hardly anyone knows about the reservoir remnants. Without much documentation about its history, memories of the former Jordan Valley Reservoir are actually fading fast.
From Kai Tak Cruise Terminal, the skyline of Kwun Tong and Lam Tin is dominated by layers of highrise buildings. [2015]Visible from Kwun Tong MTR Station, the decades old Garden Estate (花園大廈) awaits for its turn of urban renewal. [2022]First completed in late 1950’s, Garden Estate (花園大廈) was the first public housing in Kwun Tong. [2022]Garden Estate (花園大廈) was built to house industrial workers of Kwun Tong, which was Hong Kong’s first planned satellite town in 1950’s and 1960’s. [2022]The main street market, Shui Wo Street Market (瑞和街街市), remains as lively as ever. [2022]Apart from the shopping malls, commercial and industrial areas, Shui Wo Street Market is the place in Kwun Tong to experience its crowds. [2022]From traditional cooking ingredients to paper lanterns for Mid Autumn Festival, Shui Wo Street Market offers a wide range of traditional merchandises for the community. [2022]Decades old stationery shop and toy stores at Shui Wo Street Market are children’s favorites. [2022]From Shui Wo Street Market, the newly completed curtain wall apartments can be seen as prominent replacements of the former commercial centre of Yue Man Square (裕民坊). [2022]
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It is such a contrasting experience to step into the complex of Tai Wong Yeh Temple (大王爺廟) from the busy streets of Kwun Tong. [2021]The complex was built upon three main terraces. [2021]Tai Wong Yeh Temple (大王爺廟) is quite well maintained. [2021]I was particularly interested on the wall reliefs at Tai Wong Yeh Temple (大王爺廟). [2021]With the fine details and beautiful shadows, the dragon is perhaps the most eye-catching relief of them all. [2021]Built on the site of the former Jordan Valley Estate (佐敦谷邨), the 1.7 hectare swimming compound at Jordan Valley has become an essential public facility in Kwun Tong. [2022]From the main dam of the former Jordan Valley Reservoir, the lush Jordan Valley appears like a green lung for Kwun Tong. [2022]A part of the former reservoir is still used for water filtration and distribution. [2022]The main dam of the former Jordan Valley Reservoir has become an exercise spot for the community. [2022]Traces of the former reservoir is still visible at the former main dam. [2022]Further uphill from the main dam brought me to Kwun Tong High Level Service Reservoir Playground, where remnants of the former water facilities can still be found. [2022]Remnant of the former reservoir includes a dramatic ruined stone wall behind the running track. [2022]Perched high above the surrounding residential developments, the running track is a secret getaway for Kwun Tong residents. [2022]It is not an easy climb in summer to reach the running track from the adjacent neighborhoods. [2022]But views of the majestic Kowloon Peak (飛鵝山) is more than rewarding for the sweaty climb. [2022]
This summer, the Conservancy Association Centre for Heritage (CACHE) has organized a number of guided walks in Cha Kwo Ling, hosted a small exhibition at St. Mark’s Lutheran Church, and published Travelling through Cha Kwo Ling – A Memoir of the Urban Village, a free publication that documents the oral history of villagers who have spent decades in Hong Kong’s last quarry community. These personal recollections might seem fragmentary, but once pieced together they form a comprehensive set of living memories for a place pretty much frozen in time for the past few decades. The fact that Cha Kwo Ling has been able to evade bulldozers all these years was quite remarkable, especially when the adjacent Kwun Tong (觀塘), a former industrial district and Hong Kong’s most densely populated area (57,250 persons per sq.km as of 2014), has gone through series of major makeovers since 1990’s. One of the main reasons why villagers prefer not to rebuild or renovate their squatter homes was because they never knew when the government would arrive to lock down their homes. Decades have past, Cha Kwo Ling gradually becomes a special place in Hong Kong where aura of the 60’s and 70’s still rules, allowing contemporary visitors to have a sense of the village’s heyday, when granite and Kaolin clay mining were major industries in East Kowloon.
Oral history of villagers records stories of Cha Kwo Ling from a bygone era, many objects in Cha Kwo Ling, be it a set of rusty metal shutters, a stone stele with fading inscriptions, or an abandoned animal cage, can still be found today, representing tangible evidences for the villagers’ stories. If these objects can speak, what would they say about the urban village and its generations of inhabitants? These silent artefacts would probably be gone in two years’ time, along with the squatter homes, community stores, small tea shops, narrow alleys, etc. Before their disappearance, we did a small walk in Cha Kwo Ling and photo documented the village scenery. Once Cha Kwo Ling is gone, former villagers and anyone who is interested in the city’s urban transformations would sadly mourn the loss of these precious artefacts. Here are objects that caught our eyes during our two recent visits.
A notice board of Cha Kwo Ling Village Fraternity Association (茶果嶺鄉民聯誼會) listed out this year’s donors to the village’s Tin Hau Temple. [2022]Near the village entrance, a corrugated metal wall is decorated with several columns of license plates. (2022)Notices and posters for the village are being put up on walls of a few houses along the main alley. [2022]Fire and water were the biggest enemies for the shanty houses in Cha Kwo Ling. Traces of previous fire and water damages can still be seen today. [2022]A large mural depicting community celebrations of Tin Hau’s birthday. [2022]Tropical plants root themselves on the wall of a former clay factory. [2021]Built with Cha Kwo Ling’s granite blocks in 1951, the tiny St. Mark’s Lutheran Church also offered kindergarten and primary education in the early days. As the village population dwindled, the school has long ceased operation. The historical building would probably be demolished and even forgotten in the near future. [2022]Many villagers have already moved out of Cha Kwo Ling, leaving behind a government’s notice on the door. [2022]Home of Kei Lun or Qilin Dance Troupe (茶果嶺麒麟隊), is a traditional organization specialized in qilin dances performed during festivals. Like lion dance to resemble lion, qilin is a legendary creature that is also known as Chinese unicorn. [2022]Traditional metallic mailboxes are still widely used in the village. [2022]Established in 1950’s, Ming Tak Primary School was in operations for two decades until mid 1970’s, along with the rise and fall of the children population in the village. Half a century has past, somehow the old school sign is still visible in Cha Kwo Ling. [2022]Wing Wah Eatery (榮華冰室) has been a prominent fixture in Cha Kwo Ling since 1960’s. It was a well known venue for local filmmakers, artists and photographers. [2022]In Wing Wah Eatery, everything seems to be frozen in time, including the colour faded posters on the wall. [2022]At CACHE’s exhibition, a red textile with guest signatures was on display, marking the opening of Wing Wah Eatery back in 1960’s. [2022]With it name hollow cut into the metal, the shop shutter of Wing Wah Restaurant has been around for decades. Designed to allow natural ventilation back in the 50’s and 60’s, these traditional shutters only exist at the shopfront of decades old shops nowadays. [2022]Some metal shutters are badly deteriorated in the village. [2022]At the small open space where villagers used to gather and socialize, the metal shutter of Wai Kee should be part of the collective memories of many Cha Kwo Ling villagers. [2022]Cha Kwo Ling might look chaotic to some, but for many photographers, the visual complexity makes the village is a delightful destination for exploration. [2022]In its heyday, Cha Kwo Ling was a thriving urban village with inhabitants of various generations. Today, many villagers and their kids have moved out to other parts of the city. [2022]A stone stele with faded inscriptions documents donor names for a bridge repair in the village. [2022]In the old days, a wildlife lover moved to Hong Kong from Guangzhou. He had a number of big cats, bear and elephant and tried to convince the colonial government to establish a zoo in Hong Kong. Used as storage of the old animal cages can still be found in Cha Kwo Ling. [2022]Five rows of mailboxes near Tin Hau Temple reveal a collective living environment back in the old days. [2022]Recently renovated, the door panels of Tin Hau Temple have been beautifully preserved. Hope that the temple can be saved after the redevelopment of Cha Kwo Ling. [2022]
On 21 September 1989, the city’s second harbour tunnel Eastern Harbour Crossing (東區海底隧道) officially opened between Quarry Bay of Hong Kong Island and Cha Kwo Ling of Kowloon. Cha Kwo Ling (茶果嶺), a lush green hill in East Kowloon, was once home to about 10,000 villagers in its heyday, when granite quarrying was a major industry in Hong Kong. Sitting below the green hill facing the harbour, the Hakka village of Cha Kwo Ling has a 400+ years of history, thriving long before this part of Kowloon and the New Territories were leased to Britain in 1899. In the 19th century, Cha Kwo Ling and three other mining villages in East Kowloon, namely Ngau Tau Kok (牛頭角), Sai Tso Wan (晒草灣), and Lei Yue Mun (鯉魚門), were administered as the Four Hills of Kowloon (九龍四山), each had its own leader who would report directly to the Qing government office at Kowloon Walled City. After becoming part of the British colony, the four mining villages continued to flourish as a collective community with shared schools, community facilities and temple. Similar to many neighborhoods in Hong Kong, Cha Kwo Ling saw an influx of newcomers from Mainland China during mid 20th century. Stone quarrying at Cha Kwo Ling ceased after 1967, when the government no longer licensed permits for industries using explosives. Apart from granite stones, Kaolin clay mining was also a major industry in the village. The white Kaolin clay is used in a wide range of products, from ceramics, toothpaste, cosmetics, paint, industrial insulation, paper, etc.
In 1980’s, the government put the second nail in Cha Kwo Ling’s coffin by tearing down a part of the village, including a former stone quarry, to make way for Eastern Harbour Crossing (東區海底隧道). A shrank Cha Kwo Ling continued to exist as a village of squatter houses somehow isolated from the surrounding urbanization. Since 2011, a number of government plans were released to replace Cha Kwo Ling village with a high density housing development. The 2021 plan gave the final verdict: erecting six residential towers at the Cha Kwo Ling site, and demolishing the existing village in two years’ time. As one of the last remaining urban village, Cha Kwo Ling has long been a unique place in Hong Kong where things seem to be frozen in time since decades ago, luring photographers and filmmakers seeking for a bygone Hong Kong, from a time when many poor were living in squatter homes but enjoying a strong community bonding. Cha Kwo Ling’s inevitable fate might long be sealed since granite quarrying ceased operations. Witnessing the final demise for one of Kowloon’s last remaining urban villages and anticipating yet another high density housing development that can be found all over the city is rather upsetting.
East of Kwun Tong Pier stands the cluster of residential towers of Laguna City (麗港城) estate, where the former quarry village Sai Tso Wan (晒草灣) and Shell oil depot used to be located. To the right of Laguna City stands the “new apartments” of Cha Kwo Ling. [2015]The new apartments of Cha Kwo Ling were late additions in the 60’s and 70’s to the village of Cha Kwo Ling (hidden behind trees right of the apartment blocks). [2021]Completed in early 1990’s, Laguna City (麗港城) is comprised of 38 residential towers and a wide range of community facilities from shopping centres to kindergartens and ball courts. The private estate was situated at Sai Tso Wan (晒草灣), home to one of the four quarry villages of Four Hills of Kowloon (九龍四山) and Shell’s former oil depot. [2021]Cha Kwo Ling is one of the last remaining urban villages in Kowloon. [2022]Colourful sheets on drying racks near village entrance. [2021]At the entrance of Cha Kwo Ling village stands a small St. Mark’s Lutheran Church (路德會聖馬可堂). Built with local granite stones, the church is an early base for Lutheran Church in Hong Kong. [2022]Ho Wa Lion Dance (壕華龍獅隊) was formed in 2015 by two youngsters who love the tradition. The NGO offers lion dance lessons for kids, and aimed to establish a museum to promote the tradition. [2021]Vivid colours are often found in the village. [2022]Wing Wah Restaurant (榮華冰室) is one of the two last remaining coffee houses still in business at Cha Kwo Ling. [2022]Nothing seems to have changed in Wing Wah since 1960’s. Sixty years ago, the wooden tables and benches were secondhand furniture sourced by Mr. Ah Yeung, founder of the business. Today, his son (鏡叔) is putting great efforts to sustain the business. [2022]Due to the lack of clarity on the village’s future, most villagers prefer not to invest money to renovate their homes. [2022]Layers of rusting corrugated metals, cloths, nylon covers, scrap plywood boards, etc. are the most common facade materials for the squatter houses in Cha Kwo Ling. [2022]In the village, external walls of squatter houses are used for displaying community notices. [2021]Cha Kwo Ling is a pleasant village for an aimless stroll, and it is not that easy for visitors to get lost. [2022]A traditional store at the major village junction offers all kinds of drinks and snacks. Stores like this Tak Kee Chan must have witnessed much better days decades ago when school children were still around. [2022]Many residents built their houses over village lanes, creating a number of covered alleys. [2022]A setback area in front of a low rise apartment block was a gathering and children’s play area for Cha Kwo Ling villagers in the old days. [2022]We bumped into several cats in Cha Kwo Ling during our brief visit. Hope that they could settle in a new home when the village is being demolished. [2022]Metal roofs of squatter homes leave a narrow strip of sky over the alleys of Cha Kwo Ling. [2022]Built in 1900 with local granite, Law Mansion (羅氏大屋) is one of the oldest surviving building in Cha Kwo Ling. [2022]Antennas dominate the skyline of Cha Kwo Ling. [2022]Proudly on display near Cha Kwo Ling Village Fraternity Association, the Hop Yee Lung (合義龍) Dragon Boat is over 60 years old. In its heyday, the boat would take 48 paddlers for the annual dragon boat race at Yaumatei Typhoon Shelter. A number of victories in the 1960’sand 1970’s gave the boat a legendary status in the village. The 20m long dragon boat took artisan Chan Yau (陳有) almost a year to build. [2021]Built in 1956, Cha Kwo Ling Village Fraternity Association (茶果嶺鄉民聯誼會) is the main gathering and event place for villagers. In the old days, the association also offer charity meals to the poor during Lu Ban (鲁班, the patron saint for the construction industries) Patron’s Day. [2021]Adjacent to Cha Kwo Ling Village Fraternity Association stands the former Four Hill School (四山公立學校, 1952-1993), a collective memory for many residents of East Kowloon. For years, the former school was home to a sport academy. The forecourt has been turned into a practice ground for golf. [2022]The current Cha Kwo Ling Tin Hau Temple is dated to late 1940’s, as a replacement for an older temple that was built during the reign of Dao Guan (道光, 1821-1850) of Qing Dynasty. [2022]Not a common practice for traditional temples, but building this Tin Hau Temple at Cha Kwo Ling with granite was a convenient choice, as the building stood right adjacent to the stone quarries. [2022]The temple interior offers a distinctly spiritual ambience in the village of Cha Kwo Ling. [2022]
Blue Lapis Road 