DAY 2 (5/5): SILENT NIGHT IN NYAUNG-U, Bagan, Myanmar, 2017.12.24

Tourists and guidebooks often compare the ancient ruins of Myanmar’s Bagan with Cambodia’s Angkor, and so as their base towns: Nyaung-U of Bagan and Siem Reap of Angkor. Tourists arriving in Bagan may discover that Nyaung-U is nothing like Siem Reap. There is no designated Pub Street, massage parlours or fish spa for the tired feet. Several years ago we spent the night of New Year’s Eve in the Pub Street of Siem Reap, where bars and restaurants were packed with half drunk tourists. This time, we had an opportunity to spend Christmas Eve in Bagan. Unlike Siem Reap, Nyaung-U was much more peaceful. To celebrate Christmas Eve, we chose Sanon Restaurant, a social enterprise offering great food and non-profit training for the disadvantaged youth. After a satisfying meal, we walked around Nyaung-U to take in the peaceful atmosphere of the silent night.

On our way to Sanon Restaurant, we passed by a number of convenient stores catered for tourists. Most shops also offered e-bike rentals to tourists. Renting E-bikes is one of the most popular ways for tourists to do their pagoda hopping.

We were lucky to find a table after a bit of waiting at Sanon Restaurant.

The dining area was a pleasant open terrace.

We started our Christmas Eve dinner with a delicious cocktail.

We had a local dish: deep fried morning glory for appetizer.

One of our main dishes was also a local dish: Giant Irrawaddy Prawn and Catfish Curry. Flowing north to south, Irrawaddy River is the largest river in Myanmar.

After dinner, we walked past a book vendor in front of a restaurant. All books were non-fiction and half of them were in English.

It was a 15-minute walk from Sanon Restaurant back to Oasis Hotel. The street was peaceful and quiet. All actions seemed to be limited inside the restaurants and hotels.

Some of the local eateries were particularly busy, with customers gathered to watch football games on large televisions.

Located at a road junction, Sapada Paya stood quietly over Nyaung-U.

We stopped by a small playground at the base of Sapada Paya.

Despite there was no one around, up at the terrace of Sapada Paya we found a small altar with fresh floral offerings.

Finally we were back at Oasis Hotel, our comfortable base for our stay in Bagan.

No one was around in the garden of Oasis Hotel, though Christmas music was on.

We enjoyed a peaceful Christmas Eve and retired to our room early. The next morning we would get up before dawn. Our driver would pick us up to watch the magical sunrise over Old Bagan, probably the most well known and gorgeous scenery in Myanmar.