Yangon | Blue Lapis Road

HOW WE USED TO CELEBRATE CHRISTMAS

2020.12.24.

We got off work early for Christmas Eve. Some restaurants were about to close as we picked up our takeout from a small Japanese restaurant in Tai Hang. In Hong Kong, no restaurant is allowed to serve customers (except takeouts) after 6pm. No countdown events, Christmas parties or family gatherings. Just a simple dinner at home for the two of us seemed to be the most appropriate Christmas Eve celebration for this unusual year. 2020 is an extraordinary year. I can hardly recall another incident in my lifetime that has simultaneously affected virtually every single human being in the world. The terrible pandemic is forcing all of us to face the same fear, frustration and isolation. Most planes have been grounded, borders shut, and international tourism has almost come to a complete halt. This abrupt disruption to our lives lead us to realize that celebrating a festive moment with families and friends or spending the holiday season at a foreign land shouldn’t be taken for granted.

Memory is interesting when it works with time. At this bizarre moment of frustrating lock downs and social distancing, a recollection of how we had spent Christmas and New Year in the past two decades remind us how we used to freely experience the world and appreciate every little things around us. Looking beyond the vivid fireworks and lavish parties, it was our curiosity, freedom and gratefulness that allowed these joyful moments to simply make us happy in different stages of our lives. At this time of physical restrictions and emotional stress, looking back at these little moments of ours have become more precious than ever. Everyone deserves memories of celebrations that worth cherishing. Hope our little sharing would remind you some of your own best moments of Christmas.

We wish you Merry Christmas and good health for the upcoming 2021.

Separately we both had a school term in Rome. In the eternal city, both our studio and apartment were located in the lively neighbourhood of Trastevere.
Rome, December 2002

Wooden decorations for Christmas tree, festive balloons, magic shows, and many others. The Christmas market at Piazza Navona was our first experience of an European Christmas.
Rome, December 2002

I used to go to Vatican for evening walks during my stay in Rome. Vatican was relatively quiet and peaceful throughout much of December. A large Christmas tree was put up at St. Peter’s Square.
Vatican, December 2002

Another big Christmas tree was set up at the Victor Emmanuel II Monument.
Rome, December 2002

After graduation, we moved to London in 2007. At Christmas, we made a short trip to the Belgian capital for Christmas break. Like many locals and tourists, we spent the night at the Grand Place for light shows and Christmas countdown.
Brussels, Christmas Eve, 2007

Back in London, the Covent Garden was particularly festive during Christmas. The Apple Market was full of delightful vendor stalls and dining patios.
London, December 2007

Elegant, sparkling, and eye catching. One thing we loved about Christmas in London were the amazing shop windows.
London, England, January 2008

Cinema became a big part of our lives in London. We often went to the BFI and Leicester Square after work. At Leicester Square, a carousel and small fair would be set up during the holiday season.
London, December 2008

We decided to stay in England at our second Christmas in London. We made a short trip to the area of Liverpool and Manchester. During that trip, we were particularly fond of the Christmas lights in Leeds.
Leeds, England, December 2008

In 2009, we returned to Toronto to do our professional licensing. In Toronto, Christmas is always cozy and homey, and so does its lights.
Toronto, December 2010

In 2011, we made a trip to Cambodia and Hong Kong. With two of our friends, we experienced one of the most noisy countdown at the bustling Pub Street in Siem Reap.
Siem Reap, New Year’s Eve 2011

On our way to New Year’s countdown in Downtown Toronto, we stopped by the atmospheric Distillery District to test out my new DSLR. From then on, film camera has eventually faded out from my travel packing list.
Toronto, New Year’s Eve 2012

Before relocating to Hong Kong, we made our 90-day trip to South America. We spent the entire month of December in Patagonia and made it to Ushuaia (world’s southernmost city) in Argentina. Reaching the “End of the World” definitely deserved an early Christmas dinner at the beautiful Kaupe restaurant.
Ushuaia, December 2013

Ushuaia is the main port going to Antarctica. We didn’t take the chance to do an Antarctica Christmas trip. Perhaps we would regret it, who knows.
Ushuaia, December 2013

For almost a week we based ourselves at Argentina’s El Chalten to do day hikes near Mount Fitz Roy. At Christmas Eve, we did the longest day hike of the week to the glacier lake right below the magnificent mountain.
Mount Fitz Roy, Christmas Eve 2013

We booked the best room at Yellow House Hotel well in advance just to take in the panoramic harbour view of Chile’s Valparaiso, and enjoy the world famous New Year fireworks from the comfort of our room.
Valparaiso, New Year’s Day 2014

Getting off work at 2:30pm on Christmas Eve, talked about a short getaway trip during dinner, bought the plane ticket right away, then packed a small carryon bag and get a bit of sleep before heading off to Hong Kong International Airport at around 2:30am on Christmas Day. At 7 in the morning, we finally arrived in Taiwan. That trip remains as our quickest travel decision so far.
Main Station, Taipei, Christmas Day 2014

Thanks to the convenient public transportation network, we have been to many neighbourhoods across the city of Hong Kong. Because of Cinematheque movie centre, we often find ourselves in Yau Ma Tei, home to a wide spectrum of people from new immigrants to elderly. Christmas Carol in Yau Ma Tei has to be catered for all.
Hong Kong, Christmas Eve 2015

New Year, Chinese New Year, HKSAR Anniversary, and Chinese National Day. There were once numerous firework displays each year over the iconic Victoria Harbour in Hong Kong. All shows have been scrapped for 2020.
Hong Kong, New Year’s Eve 2015

Most Hong Kongers love to visit Japan, and so do we. Their fine sense of beauty and comfortable balance between traditions and technologies go beyond just commercialized eye candy for festival decorations and celebrations.
Railway Station, Kyoto, December 2016

Famous for their lighting technologies, Christmas lights in Japan often create a coherent ambience reflecting their pursuit of romantic fantasy for the holiday season.
Kyoto, December 2016

Under the dreamy lights, the sense of community remains strong during Christmas in Japan.
Kyoto, December 2016

We didn’t expect to see Christmas celebrations in Myanmar (Burma), a Buddhist nation in Southeast Asia. Seeing such a large crowd and festive decorations in Yangon was a pleasant surprise.
Yangon, December 2017

Christmas celebration, Southeast Asian style. Street food is definitely a must.
Yangon, December 2017

I took my parents to Shanghai for a short trip. At the Bund, we passed by the historical Peace Hotel and its Christmas tree.
Shanghai, December 2018

After two trips to India, our third journeys to South Asia was a winter getaway to Sri Lanka. The trip was full of history, spices and fine tea. In a Buddhist country, we were surprised to see so many churches in Negombo, a coastal town near Colombo. A heritage since the arrival of the Portuguese in the 16th century, Christmas is celebrated in a number of coastal towns in Sri Lanka.
Negombo, December 2019

After visiting and staying at a number of cities around the world, Hong Kong remains as our top destination to experience the festive energy and Christmas decorations in an urban setting. Political and social unrest in 2019 have taken a toll in the financial hub. Tai Kwun, a cultural and commercial complex at the former colonial police headquarters in Central, remained as the place to go for expats and the younger generation.
Tai Kwun, Hong Kong, December 2019

Due to the pandemic, most Christmas celebrations have been cancelled across the city. Christmas trees have been downsized, and lighting decorations have been scaled down. In Central District of Hong Kong, the high-end commercial complex Landmark Atrium remains as one of the few venues still maintain a relatively large Christmas installation.
Landmark, Hong Kong, December 2020

But perhaps the most representational thing for this year’s festival season is the Christmas face mask. Social distancing with a bit of festive joy, why not?
Hong Kong, December 2020

December 25, 2020 | Categories: Uncategorized | Tags: Argentina, Belgium, Brussels, Burma, Cambodia, Canada, celebration, Chile, China, Christmas, Covent Garden, England, firework, Fitz Roy, Hong Kong, Italy, Japan, Kyoto, Landmark, Leeds, London, monument, Myanmar, Navona, Negombo, New Year, Piazza, Shanghai, Siem Reap, Sri Lanka, Tai Kwun, Taipei, Taiwan, Toronto, Trastevere, United Kingdom, Ushuaia, Valparaiso, Vatican, Victoria Harbour, Vittorio Emanuele, Yangon | Leave a comment

DAY 4: FAREWELL BAGAN FAREWELL MYANMAR, 2017.12.26

On the last day of our Burmese trip, we got up early in the morning to take a stroll in the Nyaung-U neighbourhood before heading to the airport. With less than an hour to spare, we decided to find our own way to revisit the Shwezigon Paya, the largest temple in Nyaung-U. Assisted by Google Map, we headed into the peaceful residential neighborhood of Nyaung-U. It was 7 in the morning, the light was soft and the air peaceful in the residential streets. Without much trouble we reached Shwezigon Paya. Vendors were busily preparing their stalls at the temple entrances while local worshipers were already arriving in clusters. Foreign tourists had yet arrived but the temple was already quite lively. Without a guide this time, we had the freedom to wander around the temple to absorb the spiritual atmosphere and take photographs. Keeping our departure time in mind, we headed back to Oasis Hotel via the same route. We had a quick sip of coffee at Oasis before the taxi arrived. At the airport, we soon found out that there was an issue with the incoming aircraft and our 9am flight was delayed until 11:30am. We chose to stay at the airport to write postcards and waited for further news. Fortunately the aircraft did arrive and we had no trouble to catch our connecting flight at Yangon back to Hong Kong.

That concludes the posts on our 3-day trip to Myanmar in December 2017.

At 7am, we walked into a quiet residential neighborhood of Nyaung-U heading towards Shwezigon Paya, the largest temple in Nyaung-U.

Finding our way with Google Map on our phone, we passed by small shops and streets out of the tourist areas.

In the early hours, the town was extremely peaceful and there were hardly any people on the street.

As we approached the town largest temple, we could see much more activities on the street.

We arrived at Shwezigon Paya from a different entrance than where Win Thu , a guide, brought us to two days ago.

Devoid of foreign tourists, Shwezigon Paya appeared to be much more spiritual under the soft light of the morning sun.

At the temple entrance hallway, vendors were starting their busy day.

Stalls selling local snacks in bamboo skewers and bowls of colourful sauces were set up at prominent spots.

Without the tour groups we had a better chance to photograph the locals and entrance hallway at Shwezigon Paya.

Floral offerings were particular popular with worshipers at the temple entrance.

On our way back, we passed by an unused entrance hallway of Shwezigon Paya.

A cute little girl caught our attention on our way back to the hotel.

The short walk also led us to pass by less known stupa in the quiet neighborhood.

Some locals were burning trash at a street intersection.

Beautiful morning sun led our way back towards Oasis Hotel.

We passed through the sleepy Aye Nyein Thaya Park on our way back.

This short morning walk gave us a more domestic look at Nyaung-U, the commercial hub of the Bagan area.

At Nyaung-U Airport, we were told that our flight was delayed for two hours.

Before noontime, we were finally up in the air over the arid plains of Bagan towards Yangon. Two days of temple and pagoda hopping provided us a memorable introduction to the spectacular wonders of Bagan.

It wasn’t long before we arrived at Yangon International Airport and transited to our return flight back to Hong Kong. Although short, the trip to Yangon and Bagan gave us a remarkable getaway from the often commercialized and overwhelmingly busy Christmas scenes of the city.

* * *

Blog posts on Myanmar 2017:

Day 1: Yangon, Myanmar
DAY 1: INTRODUCTION OF A SHORT BURMESE CHRISTMAS VACATION
DAY 1: WALK TO 999 SHAN NOODLE HOUSE
DAY 1: SULE PAGODA
DAY 1: COLONIAL ARCHITECTURE
DAY 1: BUSTLING STREET LIFE
DAY 1: GOLDEN WORLD OF SHWEDAGON PAGODA
DAY 1: A PLACE FOR PEOPLE, Shwedagon Pagoda
DAY 1: EVENING MAGIC OF THE GOLDEN SHWEDAGON PAGODA
DAY 1: A FESTIVE NIGHT

Day 2: Bagan
DAY 2: SHWEZIGON PAGODA, Nyaung-U
DAY 2: HTILOMINLO AND UPALI THEIN
DAY 2: ANANDA PAHTO
DAY 2: SUNSET AT OLD BAGAN
DAY 2: SILENT NIGHT IN NYAUNG-U

Day 3: Bagan
DAY 3: MAGICAL SUNRISE, Old Bagan
DAY 3: NYAUNG-U MARKET, Nyaung-U
DAY 3: SULAMANI TEMPLE
DAY 3: DHAMMAYANGYI TEMPLE
DAY 3: THATBYINNYU TEMPLE
DAY 3: NAPAYA, MANUHA AND GUBYAUKGYI, Myinkaba
DAY 3: SUNSET No. 2, Old Bagan
DAY 3: FINAL NIGHT IN NYAUNG-U

Day 4: Farewell Myanmar
DAY 4: FAREWELL BAGAN FAREWELL MYANMAR

June 17, 2018 | Categories: Bagan, Myanmar, Myanmar 2017 | Tags: airport, Aye Nyein Thaya Park, Bagan, Burma, Myanmar, Nyaung-U, Shwezigon, Temple, Yangon | Leave a comment

DAY 1 (9/9): A FESTIVE NIGHT, Yangon, Myanmar, 2017.12.23

After Shwedagon Pagoda, we took a taxi back to Downtown Yangon. Despite the taxi driver got lost on the way, we did eventually find our way on foot to LinkAge, a social development restaurant and art gallery that offers delicious food to customers and cooking training to local street kids.

Established by NGO Forever Humanitarian and Development Projects, LinkAge is situated on the upper level of an old apartment block on Mahabandoola Garden Street.

The time was a bit late but there were still several tables of customers in the restaurant.

The ambience was causal and relaxing, a perfect venue to have a local beer and chill out after a long day of sightseeing in Yangon.

We ordered lentil soup and curry shrimps. The food was decent and reasonably priced.

After the meal, we wandered around Downtown Yangon where streets and shops were still quite busy.

We walked past some of the street vendors who had spent the entire day on the streets.

We also passed by some of the city’s spectacular colonial architecture. Standing beside the High Court since 1917, the Myanma Post and Telecommunications (Central Telegraph Office) is another piece of fine architectural gem. Today, the former communication hub still offers counters for sending telegrams and emails.

Soon, we arrived at the Ayeyarwady Bank building (former Rowe & Co. Department Store) again. The former Rowe & Co. Department Store was covered with splendid Christmas lights.

Across the street from Ayeyarwady Bank, the street market along the east side of Maha Bandula Park was still running.

The north side of Maha Bandula Park across the street from Sule Pagada and City Hall was much more crowded than the morning.

A large crowd gathered for the live music performances on the stage where we passed by in the morning.

When we arrived, the performer was playing the guitar and singing in Burmese. For some reason, the Burmese songs did sound a little like Japanese to us.

Where there were people gathering in Yangon we would always find street food vendors.

Many cars just stopped by the roadside to absorb the atmosphere of the performances, even public buses.

A little further from the main stage, other vendors were selling festive stuff like illuminated wands.

Of course there were also helium balloons for the festival crowds.

Just a stone throw away from the crowds at Maha Bandula Park, Sule Pagoda continued to bathe in its peaceful spirituality.

On our way back to Loft Hotel, we climbed onto the pedestrian overpass north of Sule Pagoda. The overpass was originally constructed by the junta government where soldiers could shoot at an out-of-control political demonstration in front of the Sule Pagoda, an iconic and popular venue for massive protests.

The Christmas tree in front of Sakura Tower reminded us that Christmas 2017 was just around the corner.

* * *

Blog posts on Myanmar 2017:

Day 2: Bagan
DAY 2: SHWEZIGON PAGODA, Nyaung-U
DAY 2: HTILOMINLO AND UPALI THEIN
DAY 2: ANANDA PAHTO
DAY 2: SUNSET AT OLD BAGAN
DAY 2: SILENT NIGHT IN NYAUNG-U

Day 4: Farewell Myanmar
DAY 4: FAREWELL BAGAN FAREWELL MYANMAR

March 17, 2018 | Categories: Myanmar, Myanmar 2017, Yangon | Tags: Ayeyarwady, beer, Buddhism, Buddhist, Burma, Burmese, Christmas, concert, food, Linkage, Maha Bandula, Myanma, Myanmar, night, post, Rangoon, restaurant, Rowe & Co., sakura, Yangon | Leave a comment

DAY 1 (8/9): EVENING MAGIC OF THE GOLDEN SHWEDAGON PAGODA, Yangon, Myanmar, 2017.12.23

After sunset, the Shwedagon Pagoda transformed into a mysterious world of flickering candles and shimmering golden ornaments. We stayed at the open space in front of the Photo Gallery for a little while after dusk. We then wandered around the central stupa, where people were lighting up candles around the stupa base. We saw a constant flow of people arriving at the main terrace from one of its four main stairways. It seemed there were actually more visitors at compound after dark. At the compound, some people were worshipping and chanting, while others were chatting and taking photographs of themselves with the glittering background of the pagoda. At the end of our visit, we decided to walk down one of the grand covered stairways to descend the Singuttara Hill.

The view of the central stupa from the Photo Gallery was gorgeous no matter what time of the day it was.

At the northwest open space in front of the Photo Gallery, worshippers gathered to offer incenses, candles and other religious items in prayers.

At the nearby prayer hall, the large Buddha in golden robes looked peaceful under the soft lighting.

The golden prayer halls and chapels looked even more surreal in the evening.

The locals enjoyed posing for photographs at some of the golden worship halls.

At the base of the central stupa, the continuous ring of candles appeared like a stream of sparking fire flickering in the wind.

Just as daytime, the planetary posts were still one of the popular worshipping spots.

The covered stairway, or zaungdans, are often occupied by merchants selling all kinds of religious items from flowers to different kinds of offerings.

After sunset, the main terrace around the central stupa is still adequately lit up.

From the north gate, the central pagoda stood perfectly at the terminus of the perspective axis.

Some visitors preferred to stay away from the busy actions surrounding the central stupa.

At the outer perimeter of the worship terrace, the sacred Bodhi tree was highlighted with flood lights.

Colourful electronic lights are commonly used to create the halo ring for each Buddha statue.

Statues of the Buddha were everywhere in the ompound.

After the candles were lighted up, many people came to the ring of candles to pray and worship.

Some monks were meditating inside the small Buddhist shrines.

Same as worshipping in daytime, pilgrims came up to the planetary post and clean the altar with water.

After the visit, we took the covered stairway at the east gate to walk down the hill.

The east stairway is flanked both sides by shops selling souvenirs and religious items.

Back to the main east gate, we picked up our shoes and looked for a taxi to return to Downtown Yangon.

* * *

Blog posts on Myanmar 2017:

Day 2: Bagan
DAY 2: SHWEZIGON PAGODA, Nyaung-U
DAY 2: HTILOMINLO AND UPALI THEIN
DAY 2: ANANDA PAHTO
DAY 2: SUNSET AT OLD BAGAN
DAY 2: SILENT NIGHT IN NYAUNG-U

Day 4: Farewell Myanmar
DAY 4: FAREWELL BAGAN FAREWELL MYANMAR

March 13, 2018 | Categories: Myanmar, Myanmar 2017, Yangon | Tags: Buddha, Buddhism, Buddhist, Burma, candle, chorten, gold, Myanmar, night, pagoda, pilgrim, pilgrimage, Rangoon, Shwedagon, Singuttara, stupa, Yangon, zaungdans | Leave a comment

DAY 1 (7/9): A PLACE FOR PEOPLE, Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon, Myanmar, 2017.12.23

As the most sacred Buddhist site in Myanmar, the Shwedagon Pagoda is also one of the liveliest venue where the Burmese gather not only to worship but also to participate in all kinds of social and community activities. For the locals, Shwedagon is the place to chill out, to date, to spend family time, to chat with friends, to seek for advice from monks, and to mingle with foreign tourists. For us, the compound was the perfect place for people watching: devoted families worshipping their associated planetary post, kids amusing themselves with bronze bells and ritual tools, women reciting Buddhist mantras, monks meditating in front of the Buddhist shrines, children dressed in traditional costumes attending novitiation ceremony, large number of volunteers sweeping the marble floor, pilgrims lighting up candles and incenses surrounding the central stupa under the setting sun.

The terrace of Shwedagon has long been the centre stage for the people of Yangon. Since 1920, students, workers, civilians, and monks had took up the terrace to protest against all kinds of social injustice from colonial rule to the authoritarian regime. The most recent incident was the 2007 nationwide protest for democracy, when tens of thousands of monks and people marched from Shwedagon to the streets of Yangon demanding for change. Political figures also chose the Shwedagon as the assembly venue, such as Aung San (Aung San Suu Kyi’s father) addressing the mass in 1946 in pursuit of independence from the British, and Aung San Suu Kyi meeting with 500,000 people in 1988 demanding for democracy from the military regime. Religiously, this huge Buddhist site holds the sacred hair relics of the Buddha. Socially, the pagoda terrace is the iconic venue for national independence and democracy. Historically, the Shwedagon is one of the oldest Buddhist monument in the world. Culturally, the compound contains some of the Myanmar’s most remarkable architecture and national treasures. With its layers of meanings, the Shwedagon Pagoda is truly a remarkable venue for the people of Myanmar, and the single most important monument that defines the cultural and social identity of the Burmese.

Wearing a Burmese longyi and walking bare-feet on the marble floor of the Shwedagon is an unique Burmese experience for foreigners.

The Shwedagon is a popular place for Shinbyu parades, the traditional novitiation ceremony in Burmese Theravada Buddhism.

Throughout our visit, we saw a few Shinbyu parades at the marble terrace of the Shwedagon.

The Shinbyu parades offered us some of most remarkable moments of people watching.

At Shwedagon and elsewhere in Myanmar, gold is warmest colour.

Many pilgrims would light up candles and incenses at the altar around the central pagoda.

Local fruits are popular for religious offerings.

Meditation is a typical practice for Buddhists, and a common sight at Shwedagon.

Young children seemed enjoying themselves at the terrace while their parents were busy worshipping.

A kid trying out the bronze bell.

A devoted family worshipping at one of the planetary post at the base of the central pagoda.

A group of women reciting Buddhist mantras in front of a reclining Buddha.

Visitors and monks resting among figures of sitting Buddha.

Volunteers collectively sweeping the marble floor was a unique scene for us.

The volunteers formed a line and walked at the same pace to sweep the floor. During our visit, we saw the sweeping group several times at different locations in the compound.

Away from the main circulation space, some worship hall were less crowded, allowing visitors to meditate quietly.

Near sunset, many gathered at the open space in front of the Photo Gallery northwest of the central stupa.

Gathering people included young visitors carrying flower offerings for evening worship.

We also saw a large group of what looked like to be the Wa people. The Wa is an ethnic minority group living in Northern Myanmar and Southwestern China.

Myanmar is ethnically diverse, with 135 ethnic groups officially recognized by the government.

* * *

Blog posts on Myanmar 2017:

Day 2: Bagan
DAY 2: SHWEZIGON PAGODA, Nyaung-U
DAY 2: HTILOMINLO AND UPALI THEIN
DAY 2: ANANDA PAHTO
DAY 2: SUNSET AT OLD BAGAN
DAY 2: SILENT NIGHT IN NYAUNG-U

Day 4: Farewell Myanmar
DAY 4: FAREWELL BAGAN FAREWELL MYANMAR

March 3, 2018 | Categories: Myanmar, Myanmar 2017, Yangon | Tags: Buddha, Buddhism, Buddhist, Burma, Burmese, chorten, ethnic, gold, Myanmar, novitiation, pagoda, parasol, people, pilgrim, pilgrimage, Rangoon, religion, Shinbyu, Shwedagon, stupa, Wa, Worship, Yangon | Leave a comment

DAY 1 (6/9): GOLDEN WORLD OF SHWEDAGON PAGODA, Yangon, Myanmar, 2017.12.23

At 4pm, we left Downtown Yangon and headed for Shwedagon Pagoda, probably the most iconic sight of the city if not the entire Myanmar. Our taxi stuck in busy traffic and it took us half an hour to arrived at the east gate of Shwedagon Pagoda from Downtown Yangon. We specifically chose to visit the pagoda in the latter half of the afternoon, as we planned to stay at the pagoda compound till dusk when the golden stupa would glow in the flickering candle lights and flooded lights. At the east gate, we took off our shoes and left them on a shelf, and squeezed in a lift with the locals to head up the Singuttara Hill where the central pagoda and the main terrace were located. From the lift tower, we crossed a link bridge over to the main terrace. The first glance of the golden spires of Buddhist shrines was quite overwhelming. Beyond the the various ornate shrines, prayer halls, and planetary posts, the majestic 99m central stupa known as the Shwedagon Pagoda stood proudly at the heart of everything. Fully gilded with gold, this central stupa dwarfed all other stupas, shrines, altars, statues, and prayer halls on Singuttara Hill.

Probably erected by the Mon people between 6th and 10th century AD, the Shwedagon Pagoda has been the centre of Myanmar’s Buddhist universe for centuries. Legend has it that the original stupa at Singuttara Hill was dated to 2600 years ago, when Taphussa and Bhallika met Gautama Buddha during his lifetime and brought back 8 of his hair as sacred relics. A stupa at Singuttara Hill was built to house the hair. The stupa evolved throughout the centuries, as shrines and prayer halls added by different kings and donors, and the height of the stupa increased several times during history until the present 99m. The pagoda wasn’t always covered in gold in the past. In the 15th century, Queen Shin Sawbu donated gold plates equaled to her own weight to be riveted onto the stupa surface. Since then, cladding the stupa in gold had became a tradition for rulers.

We took our time wandering around the 114-acre pagoda site. After an hour or two meandering through all kinds of Buddhist structures and visiting the interesting photo gallery, we sat down at the open space at the northwest corner near the Friday planetary post to chill out, waiting for the sun to set and candles to lit up.

Our taxi dropped us off at the east gate of Singuttara Hill. We followed the locals to take an elevator up to the main terrace level.

Once we reached the main terrace, we were immediately overwhelmed by the fine details and golden ornaments of the surrounding shrines and prayer halls.

In the midst of everything stood the majestic 99m Shwedagon Pagoda.

We circled the pagoda and stopped by some of the interesting shrines. Chinthe, the legendary half-lion, half dragon creatures are commonly found as guardians in Buddhist temples of Southeast Asia.

It was hard to imagine just how many gold plates were being applied onto the surface of the Shwedagon Pagoda over the centuries.

The 25 ton Singu Min Bell (Maha Gandha Bell) was a donation in 1779 by King Singu.

The big Buddha at the northwest corner of the compound is a fine example of Buddha images found at Shwedagon Pagoda.

Displayed behind glass, the jade Buddha reminds all visitors that Myanmar has the biggest gemstones and jade mining in the world.

Three out of the four main staircases known as zaungdan stairs at the four cardinal directions are filled with vendors of religious merchandise.

The four monumental covered staircases are all splendidly decorated.

Everything on the main terrace of Shwedagon Pagoda seemed to be golden in colour.

Away from the main circulation space around the central pagoda, we walked by a number of prayer halls and shrines. These structures were built in different periods in history, but many were rebuilt after the 1931 fire that caused damages to the wooden structures in the compound.

The 150-year-old Bodhi Tree at the southeast corner of the compound is said to be descended from the original Bodhi Tree in Northern India where the Buddha meditated underneath.

Viewing the Shwedagon Pagoda from the north gate was one of our favorite.

At 6:30pm, the sun began to set. More visitors arrived from the staircases at the four cardinal directions.

Only staff and monks are allowed to climb onto the terraces of the Shwedagon Pagoda.

In the Photo Gallery northwest of the central pagoda, we were able to see photographs of the treasures on the pagoda spire, including about 5000 diamonds, 2300 rubies, sapphires, and other gems.

One of the most famous treasures of Shwedagon Pagoda is undoubted the 72 carat diamond at the top of the spire.

After visiting the Photo Gallery, we sat down at the open space in front of the gallery as the sun began to set.

* * *

Blog posts on Myanmar 2017:

Day 2: Bagan
DAY 2: SHWEZIGON PAGODA, Nyaung-U
DAY 2: HTILOMINLO AND UPALI THEIN
DAY 2: ANANDA PAHTO
DAY 2: SUNSET AT OLD BAGAN
DAY 2: SILENT NIGHT IN NYAUNG-U

Day 4: Farewell Myanmar
DAY 4: FAREWELL BAGAN FAREWELL MYANMAR

March 2, 2018 | Categories: Myanmar, Myanmar 2017, Yangon | Tags: Buddha, Buddhism, Buddhist, Burma, chorten, diamond, gold, Myanmar, pagoda, Paya, pilgrim, pilgrimage, Rangoon, religion, Shrine, Shwedagon, Singuttara, stupa, Temple, treasure, Worship, Yangon, zaungdan | Leave a comment

DAY 1 (5/9): BUSTLING STREET LIFE, Yangon, Myanmar, 2017.12.23

Like many Southeast Asian cities, the streets of Yangon are chaotic and energetic. While we checked out the colonial architecture in Downtown Yangon, we also encountered the vibrant Burmese street life that included mobile street vendors, roadside eateries, and wandering Buddhist monks dressed in pink robes seeking for donations. As a city of about 5.5 million, Yangon has the most diverse population in Myanmar, with Bamar the main ethnic group, along with Indians, Chinese, Rakhine, Karen people, etc. Such diversity is reflected by the distinct cuisines available in restaurants. With 135 ethnic groups, and bordering nations including India, China, Thailand, Bangladesh and Laos, the vigorous cultural fusion of distinct influences is strongly evident in the street food of Yangon.

Buddhist monks, including groups of young monks, could be seen throughout Downtown Yangon. They came out mainly to seek for food donations.

Fruits and snacks were sold everywhere on the sidewalk, including the pavement in front of the City Hall.

Despite of recent controversy, Ang San Suu Kyi is still to a great extent the symbol of human rights in Myanmar.

There was a street market along the east side of Maha Bandula Park.

Some vendors were selling dry goods but most were actually street food vendors.

Snacks and more food at the east entrance of Maha Bandula Park.

The pink robes of the Buddhist monks stood out against the old building facades of Yangon.

Plastic chairs, makeshift tents, and temporary tables of street food vendors were set up at side streets.

With the happy customers at the street food vendors, the city was filled with a somewhat laid-back atmosphere. Even dogs were having a relaxing time in the early afternoon.