Plaza de Armas | Blue Lapis Road

LAST DAY IN PERU, Lima, Peru

We took a morning flight back to Lima, stored our big backpacks at the airport and took a taxi to Museo de la Nacion. We came here specifically to see the Yuyanapaq exhibition on the 6th floor. Yuyanapaq means “to remember” in Quechua. It was an exhibition of black and white photographs documenting the Peruvian internal conflict from 1980 to 2000, in which thousands were killed in attacks by Shining Path rebels, government military, and other guerrilla groups. It was a touching experience to learn the recent history of Peru. It was hard to believe that the terror of bombings could happen pretty much anywhere in this country only a decade ago.

After some heavy realization of Peru’s recent past, we decided it was time for a good seafood lunch for this very last day of our trip. We followed the guidebook’s recommendation and headed to El Veridico de Fidel, which according to the guidebook, was a place of pilgrimage in terms of Peruvian seafood. Though the book forewarned that the restaurant’s neighborhood could be a little chaotic and rough. As a result we decided to take a taxi. El Veridico de Fidel was truly a seafood heaven. It was fully packed. We spent a long time looking at the menu. At last, we ordered a full table of seafood and a jar of chicha, a type of fermented corn beverage. The seafood dishes included leche de tigre (ceviche broth with shrimp, scallop, raw fish, octopus, and sea urchin), bi-colour tiradito (Japanese style ceviche without onions), ceviche platter (scallop, raw fish, whelks, octopus, and sea urchin), deep-fried seafood platter, baked scallops with cheese on top, and a red snapper sudado. The fish was fresh, and the soup very tasty.

After the heavenly meal, we taxied to the Plaza de Armas. We causally strolled around the plaza to appreciate the surrounding architecture. We headed to the main post office to send out some postcards. There was only a tiny door from the arcade into the post office. We tried to buy some collection stamps but the staff refused to sell as they were closing. After the post office, we walked around the area, stopped by a bakery for drinks, and then headed to Plaza San Martin. At Plaza San Martin, we tried to visit El Bolivarcito for its legendary pisco sour but because of the regional election the next day, they were not allowed to sell alcohol.

We ended up stopping at a nearby KFC, before taking a taxi back to Lima’s airport. One of our friends and us left Lima for New York and then Toronto that very night, while our other friend stayed at a hostel near the airport for another night before his flight back to Chicago the next morning. That was it. Uncounted fond memories of Peru: Andes Mountains, Inca history, colourful cultures, fantastic seafood, friendly people, funny llamas, mighty condors and sacred Titicaca. After these magnificent Peruvian experiences, our interest on South America grew as time went on, until the day came when we were determined to explore this magical continent once again in 2013, from the Brazilian Pantanal to Bolivian Altiplano, and from the bustling Rio and Buenos Aires to windswept Patagonia.

The Museo de la Nacion in Lima.

The interior atrium at Museo de la Nacion, Lima.

Back window of taxi, on our way to El Veridico de Fidel.

Leche de tigre (ceviche broth) with shrimp, scallop, raw fish, octopus, and sea urchin.

(Left) ceviche platter, which included a scallop, raw fish, whelks, octopus, and sea urchin. (Right) baked scallops with cheese on top.

(Left) deep-fried seafood platter. (Right) red snapper sudado.

After we finished, one of the staff came to pose for me to take a photo. His bowl of fish and crab soup seemed very tempting to us as well.

The Plaza de Armas with buildings, cathedral, Archbishop’s Palace of Lima, etc.

Plaza de Armas, with buildings, cathedral, Archbishop’s Palace of Lima, etc.

President palace.

Interesting balcony at President’s Palace.

Arcade at the main post office.

Tourist horse carriage at Plaza de Armas, Lima.

A ornamental church along our way to Plaza San Martin.

Late afternoon at Plaza San Martin, Lima.

KFC at Plaza San Martin where we spent the last hour in Lima, Peru.

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Read other posts on Peru Trip 2010

LIMA
1. Peru Trip 2010
2. Bumpy Arrival, Lima & Arequipa, Peru
AREQUIPA & COLCA CANYON
3. Monasterio de Santa Catalina, Arequipa, Peru
4. Plaza de Armas, Arequipa, Peru
5. Volcanoes and Vicuna, Pampa Canahuas Natural Reserve, Patahuasi, and Patapampa, Peru
6. Yanque, Colca Canyon, Peru
7. Cruz del Condor, Colca Canyon, Peru
8. Farming Terraces, Colca Canyon, Peru
PUNO & TITICACA
9. Road to Titicaca, Colca Canyon to Puno, Peru
10. Afternoon on Taquile Island, Titicaca, Peru
11. Morning on Taquile, Titicaca, Peru
12. Inka Express, Puno to Cusco, Peru
CUSCO & SACRED VALLEY
13. Pisac & Ollantaytambo, Sacred Valley, Peru
14. Salinas de Maras, & Moray, Sacred Valley, Peru
15. Lucuma Milkshake & Plaza de Armas, Cusco, Peru
16. Saksaywaman, Cusco, Peru
INCA TRAIL
17. KM 82 to Wayllabamba, Inca Trail, Peru
18. Wayllabamba to Pacamayo, Inca Trail, Peru
19. Pacasmayo to Winay Wayna, Inca Trail, Peru
20. Winay Wayna to Machu Picchu, Inca Trail, Peru
21. Machu Piccu, Inca Trail, Peru
22. Machu Picchu in Black and White, Inca Trail, Peru
23. Afterthought, Inca Trail, Peru
LAST DAY IN CUSCO & LIMA
24. Farewell to the Incas, Cusco, Peru
25. Last Day in Peru, Lima, Peru

February 18, 2016 | Categories: Lima, Peru, Peru 2010 | Tags: ceviche, cuisine, El Veridico de Fidel, food, leche de tigre, Lima, Museo de la Nacion, Peru, Plaza de Armas, Quechua, seafood, Shining Path, urchin, Yuyanapaq | Leave a comment

FAREWELL TO THE INCAS, Cusco, Peru

After the 4-day Inca Trail, we had one final full day in Cusco. We started off our day with visiting Qorikancha, the colonial church and convent of Santo Domingo that built upon the stone walls and foundations of the richest temple in the Inca empire, the Inti Wasi, or the Sun Temple. Qorikancha in Quechua means “Golden Courtyard”. Pachacuti Inca Yupanqui, the famous Inca Emperor who expanded the Kingdom of Cusco into the mighty Inca Empire, and was probably the one who ordered the construction of Machu Picchu, transformed much of Cusco into his capital city and erected the Inti Wasi as the most important temple of the empire. Pachacuti decorated Inti Wasi with gold vases, gold statues, gold ornaments, and walls covered with sheets of solid gold. Much of the gold was given to the Spanish as ransom money for Atahualpa, the last emperor of the Incas. Inti Wasi was looted and destroyed by the first Spanish conquistadors. The Spanish colonists then spent almost a century building the Church of Santo Domingo over the walls and foundations of Inti Wasi. Much of the church was damaged by earthquakes throughout the centuries, though much of the Inca foundations and walls remained intact because of their magnificent craftsmanship.

After Qorikancha, we strolled along Pampa de Castillo and picked an eatery to try some of the local delicacies. It was lunchtime and the restaurant was quite busy. There were only three things in the menu. We ordered one of each and a large bottle of Inca Cola. The dishes included adobo de chancho (Peruvian slow-cook pork in a soup/sauce made with jalapeno peppers, tomatoes, garlic, vinegar, salt and spices), chicharrones (deep-fried chunks of pork served with corn, mint leaves, potato and onion), and the truly awesome caldo de gallina (chicken soup with real taste of chicken).

After lunch, each of us did some shopping at Kuna, a local knitwear fashion brand with a good collection of alpaca garments. Then we walked over to the Cathedral (Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus). The Cathedral actually consisted of three different churches, Iglesia del Triunfo, Cathedral and Iglesia de Jesus Maria. We entered the Cathedral through Iglesia de Jesus Maria. The three churches were good examples of colonial architecture, with lots of silver treasures and historical artifacts. Famous paintings include the Quechua’s version of The Last Supper (a small feast with Andean ceremonial food), and the oldest surviving painting in Cusco that depicted an earthquake in 1650.

We couldn’t resist but went for another round of lucuma milkshake at Mercado San Pedro. After the drink, we took a taxi to the district of San Blas one more time to shop for jewellery and souvenirs. We didn’t get any jewellery, but instead, a few souvenirs including t-shirts and two small water-colour drawings. On our way back down from San Blas, we strolled pass the alleyway of Hatunrumlyoc to admire the Inca stonework one last time. This was once the palace of Inca Roca, then converted to a grand colonial residence, then a archbishop’s palace, and now, Museo de Arte Religioso. Each stone of Hatunrumlyoc was smoothed, shaped and fit together by hands, without any use of mortar. Given the splendid stonework, the Incas and the Quechua people were truly master builders of their time. It was hard to imagine that their empire lasted for only 100 years. Within a century they built all these palaces and lost cities on the Andes such as Machu Picchu.

Since I needed more rest to deal with my fever, I decided to called it a day and returned to Ninos 2 Hotel, while my friends went out to Plaza de Armas to meet up with our Inca Trail group for a dinner gathering. They brought back a bowl of delicious chicken soup for me that truly brightened my mood and whetted my appetite. Since we landed at Arequipa, it had been 13 days traveling in the Peruvian highlands. In the next morning, we would left the Peruvian Altiplano for Lima.

Nino’s Hotel 2: across from our room there is the facilities for street children supported by the hotel and other donations.

Entrance of Nino’s 2 Hotel

Entrance of the Qurikancha.

Urban view of Cusco from Qurikancha.

Reconstructed Inca temple structure with original materials.

Colonial ceiling panels at Qurikancha.

Outdoor garden of Qorikancha.

Adobo de chancho, chicharrones, and caldo de gallina

Atrium of the eatery.

Live music at the eatery.

Staff preparing chicharrones near the eatery entrance.

Plaza de Armas of Cusco.

The Cathedral of Cusco.

After the two churches, we strolled around the Plaza de Armas area, and found our way through some of the alleyways that are still flanked by Inca stonework. The first alleyway we walked through was Loreto.

Walking to Mercado San Pedro again.

Mercado San Pedro.

Magnificent Inca stonework at Hatunrumlyoc.

A courtyard of souvenir shops at Hatunrumlyoc.

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February 17, 2016 | Categories: Cusco and Sacred Valley, Peru, Peru 2010 | Tags: Adobo de Chancho, alpaca, Caldo de Gallina, Chicharrones, Cusco, Cuzco, Hatunrumlyoc, Iglesia de Jesus Maria, Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus, Iglesia del Triunfo, Inca, Inca Cola, Inti Wasi, lucuma, Machu Picchu, Ninos Hotel, Pachacuti, Pampa de Castillo, Peru, Plaza de Armas, Qorikancha, San Blas, Yupanqui | Leave a comment

PLAZA DE ARMAS, Arequipa, Peru

After visiting Monasterio de Santa Catalina, We visited Museo Santuarios Andinos (Museum of Andean Sanctuaries) where the well preserved frozen body of Mummy Juanita is housed. Also known as the Inca Ice Maiden, Mummy Juanita was discovered in 1995 on Nevado Ampato, a dormant stratovolcano not far from Arequipa. Seeing the frozen mummy of a 12-year old Inca girl reminded us the fear and respect the precolonial Incas had for the mighty volcanoes in the area.

After the chilly exhibits, we took a relaxing stroll under the warm afternoon sun around Plaza de Armas, the historical heart of Arequipa. Built with ashlar blocks, the Arequipa Cathedral dominates one side of the plaza with its colonial Baroque facade. In adjacent, the two tier Neo-Renaissance colonnade of the Portal (Portales) was previously functioned as the town hall of Arequipa, now creating a historical backdrop for tourists to soak in the colonial atmosphere.

In the evening, we climbed up to the roof patio of Portales to enjoy our dinner. The view overlooking the Plaza de Armas was magnificent, while the distant views of the mighty volcanoes surrounding Arequipa were equally impressive. Temperature dropped significantly as the sun lowered, fortunately the restaurant owner handed us each a traditional wool poncho to keep warm. That night, we had our first taste of llama steak.

Plaza de Armas is the most iconic public space in Arequipa.

Plaza de Armas is frequented by locals and tourists.

The colonnade of the Portales, originally served as Arequipa’s town hall.

Local crossing the street at Portales. [Scanned positive slide]

Basilica Cathedral of Arequipa. [Scanned positive slide]

The bell tower of Basilica Cathedral of Arequipa. [Scanned positive slide]

Tourist restaurants occupy more than one level of the Portales, including the roof patio overlooking the archway and bell tower of Basilica Cathedral of Arequipa.

El Misti Volcano from the roof of the Portales.

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January 2, 2016 | Categories: Arequipa & Colca Canyon, Peru, Peru 2010 | Tags: Ampato, Arequipa, mummy Juanita, Museo Santuarios Andinos, Peru, Plaza de Armas, Portales | Leave a comment

Blue Lapis Road ultramarinus – beyond the sea

Posts tagged “Plaza de Armas”

LAST DAY IN PERU, Lima, Peru

FAREWELL TO THE INCAS, Cusco, Peru

PLAZA DE ARMAS, Arequipa, Peru