DAY 3 (2/7): NANZENJI (南禅寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.05

After the peaceful stroll in the nearby neighborhood, we approached the Sammon Gate (三門) from its side. Built in 1628, the enormous 5-bay Sammon Gate stood proudly at the entrance plaza of Nanzenji Temple. The timber structure of the Sammon Gate darkened as it aged. The reddish tone of the wood matched well with the autumn foliage. Sammon, or triple gate, is a common feature of a Zen Buddhist temple. It is the short form for sangedatsumon (三解脱門) or gate of three liberation. To obtain liberation and achieve enlightenment, Zen Buddhism believes the three liberation: to understand that nothing in this world has a distinctive character, therefore there is no fixed form, and as a result there is nothing in this world to be sought after. The staff wasn’t there so we didn’t get a chance to climb up to the upper deck. From the Sammon Gate, we walked straight into the middle courtyard where a number of pine and beautiful maple trees stood. In the middle, the Hatto or Dharma (法堂) was not open to the public. We could only circle the building from the outside.

The Sammon Gate (三門) of Nanzenji is one of the biggest in temple gate in Kyoto.

Close up of a timber column of Nanzenji’s Sammon Gate (三門).

There are five bays in Nanzenji’s Sammon Gate.

The majestic Sammon as seen from inside the compound.

Hatto or Dharma (法堂), the large lecture hall, was not open to the public.

We then made a turn to the right side of Hatto, reaching a uniquely long structure, Suiro-kaku Aqueduct (水路閣). The arched brick structure was built in the Meiji Period (1889) as part of the water infrastructure that brought water from Lake Biwa to Kyoto. Today, the Suiro-kaku still maintains as the only Western style aqueduct in the city. Standing 93m in length, 4m wide, and 14m high, the aqueduct bisects the temple complex into two. Originally seen as a clash with the Buddhist structures, the skeptical Kyoto citizens soon became fond of the new addition to Nanzenji. Today, the Suiro-kaku Aqueduct has been designated a national historical site, an integral component of the temple ground of Nanzenji.

Constructed in late 19th century, the Suiro-kaku (水路閣) Aqueduct passes through the compound of Nanzenji.

The red brick archways of the Suiro-kaku (水路閣).

The magnificent design details of the Suiro-kaku (水路閣).

Behind the Hatto stood the Hojo (方丈) or abbot’s quarter. The Hojo turned out to be a great place to check out karesansui or dry rock gardens. Ohojo Garden, the karesansui or dry landscape rock garden of the Hojo, contained six stones of various sizes, abstractly depicting a tiger cub crossing a river. The garden was created by Enshu Kobori in the Kanei Era (1624-1644). Another dry garden in the Hojo was Kohojo Garden (小方丈庭園). Constructed in the model times (1966), this dry garden aimed to illustrate the Chinese character of “heart”. Further into the complex we arrived at Rokudo-tei Garden (六道庭), a series of Zen gardens created by Ueyakato Landscape Co,. Ltd.in 1967. This garden was much larger and aimed to conceptualize the Buddhist concept of “reincarnation in six realms” into the garden design. We wandered in the gardens a bit and moved on to visit other sub-temples in the compound.

One of the rooms in the Hojo (方丈) or abbot’s quarter with screens open to the attractive Zen garden.