Yasaka | Blue Lapis Road

DAY 2 (3/6): KIYOMIZU DERA to KENNINJI, Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.04

Leaving Kiyomizu-dera behind, we walked down Matsubara Dori (松原通) to the intersection of Gojo-zaka (五条坂), where we were drawn by a small shop selling different senbei (煎餅), or Japanese rice crackers snacks. The shop Terakoya Honpo (寺子屋本舗) is a well known chain store of senbei in Japan. We couldn’t resist but picked up a piece of delicious senbei with seaweed spices. Turning into Sannen-zaka (三年坂), we found our way back to Yasaka Dori (八坂通), the historical alleyway dominated by the iconic Yasaka-no-to Pagoda of Hokanji Temple (法観寺八坂の塔). A number of locals and tourists dressed in traditional kimonos were posing for photos in front of the pagoda. A strong coffee aroma led us to a few shops down from the pagoda. The sleek design of curved glazing and minimal decor of %Arabica Coffee provided a pleasant contrast to the historical atmosphere of Higashiyama. We went in, ordered two cups of hand drip coffee, and sat down at the communal table. A female staff took our order and prepared the coffee at the counter. After about ten minutes, our magnificent morning coffee were ready, and that was probably one of the best coffees we ever had.

Just round the street corner from %Arabica along Higashioji Dori (東大路通), we arrived at a alleyway leading to the Shinto shrine Yasui Konpiragu (安井金比羅宮). Nothing monumental or extravagant, the low profile shrine in a residential neighborhood was surprisingly popular with local worshipers due to the specialized wishes of “sever bad relationships and established good relationships (悪縁を切り良縁を結ぶ). In the shrine complex, the centre piece “Power Stone Monument” is a 3m x 1.5m tall rock with an oval hole in the middle. The monument is fully covered with white paper charms. When we were there, there was a long queue of visitors (mostly young women) waiting for their turns to crawl through the oval hole in a ritual of making wishes related to relationships. The main shrine building stood adjacent to the “Power Stone Monument”. In front of the main shrine, racks fully loaded with ema (絵馬) wooden plaques and paper charms written with wishes captured our attention. Judging from the amount of ema, Yasui Konpiragu should be considered a very popular Shinto shrine. We exited the shrine complex through a side torii gateway into a residential lane, and soon found ourselves just steps away from the perimeter wall of Kenninji Temple (建仁寺). Before entering this oldest Zen temple in Kyoto, we stopped by a soba restaurant next to the temple entrance for a quick lunch.

Outside of Kiyomizu-dera, visitors including us began to walk down Matsubara Dori (松原通) towards the city.

Senbei, Japanese rice crackers, with seaweed spices ordered from Terakoya Honpo (寺子屋本舗), a chain snack shop.

On Yasaka Dori (八坂通), there were quite people dressed in traditional kimono and posed for photos.

A grapefruit tree below the Yasaka-no-to Pagoda of Hokanji Temple (法観寺八坂の塔).

Near Yasaka-no-to Pagoda, we passed by Yasaka Koshindo (八坂庚申堂), a small Koshin (庚申) temple.

Walking down Yasaka Dori looking for %Arabica Coffee. Whenever we turned around the Yasaka-no-to Pagoda just dominated the vista.

Three customers sat on a bench in front of %Arabica Coffee Shop.

Front counter of %Arabica Coffee Shop in Higashiyama.

Coffee beans stored behind glass cabinets against the long wall in the coffee shop.

Coffee roasting machine at the back of the shop.

Two cups of Hand drip coffee!

A long queue for the opportunity to crawl through the hole of “Power Stone Monument” at Yasui Konpiragu (安井金比羅宮).

A young woman crawling through the “Power Stone Monument”.

A young woman worshiping at the main shrine.

A rack fully filled with ema (絵馬) wooden plaques

The Side Entrance and torii gate of Yasui Konpiragu (安井金比羅宮).

soba restaurant.

Interior of the soba restaurant.

Soba with tempura

Soba with fresh tofu skin in thick broth

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January 18, 2017 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kyoto and Nara 2016, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: Arabica, cafe, coffee, 絵馬, ema, food, Higashiyama, Hokanji, Japan, Kenninji, Kiyomizu dera, Kyoto, noodles, soba, Terakoya, torii, Yasaka, Yasaka Dori, Yasui Konpiragu, zen, 八坂の塔, 八坂通, 安井金比羅宮, 寺子屋本舗, 建仁寺, 東山, 法観寺, 京都 | Leave a comment

DAY 2 (1/6): MORNING STROLL IN SOUTHERN HIGASHIYAMA (東山), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.04

There is perhaps no better place in Kyoto to take a morning stroll than the area of Southern Higashiyama, in the historical alleyways between Yasaka Jinja (八坂神社) and Kiyomizu-dera Temple (清水寺). The bus dropped us off at the street intersection of Higashioji Dori (東大路通) and Shijo Dori (四条通). We picked up a box of sushi from Lawson convenience store for breakfast, then crossed the road to enter Yasaka Shrine from its west gate. Yasaka Jinja is one of the most popular shrines in Kyoto, especially when the most famous festival in Japan, Gion Matsuri, takes place annually in July for over a thousand years. Though in the early morning that we visited, there were only a handful of worshipers and tourists around. Like many Shinto shrines, Yasaka was like a park dotted with pavilions and shrines. The most prominent feature in Yasaka was the central pavilion of lanterns with donor names written on them. Exiting the shrine from its south gate, we headed south in the direction of Kiyomizu-dera, intending to return to this iconic temple for a daytime visit. Soon we reached the entrance of a traditional stone paved alleyway known as Ishibei Koji (石塀小路). Flanked both sides by historical timber homes, restaurants and ryokans, the alleyway exemplified what Medieval Kyoto might be like. We were delighted to have the lane all by ourselves. After making a few turns in Ishibei Koji, we exited the alleyway at the other end, standing just a stone throw away from two other greatly preserved historical alleyways, Ninenzaka (二年坂) and Sannenzaka (三年坂).

From Ishibei Koji, we continued to walk south on Nene-no-michi Lane (ねねの道), the historical stone paved street in front of the park of Kodaiji Temple. Soon we arrived at the picturesque Ninenzaka (二年坂). Timber townhouses known as machiya (町屋) were beautifully preserved along this heritage lane. Telephone cables which were normally suspended in mid air from street poles to street poles were nowhere to be seen. It was still early, shops had yet opened their doors and there were hardly any other tourists. We took our time to soak up the historical atmosphere. When we reached Yasaka Dori (八坂通), we made a short detour down to take a daytime photo of the Yasaka Pagoda of Hokanji Temple (法観寺八坂の塔). Heading back uphill and we soon arrived at Sannenzaka (三年坂), another atmospheric lane with steps that led us to Matsubara Dori (松原通), the last bit of road that would take us back to the entrance of the most iconic temple in Japan, Kiyomizu-dera Temple (清水寺).

Arriving at the intersection of Higashioji Dori (東大路通) and Shijo Dori (四条通).

The west gate of Yasaka Jinja (八坂神社)

We also passed by smaller shrines in the complex.

There were hardly anyone around at the main court of the complex.

Traditional lanterns written with donor’s name.

Walking along a lane with orange fence and lanterns and autumn foliage.

Two ladies walking uphill towards Maruyama Park (円山公園).

Vending machine and the iconic Yasaka Pagoda in a distance.

Poster regarding the night visits at Kiyomizu-dera.

At IIshibei Koji, we had to keep quiet while walking through the stone paved lane.

Temple houses at IIshibei Koji.

A tiny shrine by a manhole at Nene-no-Michi Lane.

Magnificent timber machiya along Sannenzaka.

Approaching the steps of Sannenzaka.

Roadside shrine at Sannenzaka.

The stepped part of Ninenzaka.

Yasaka Pagoda as seen from Kamimachi (八坂通).

Walking uphill at Sannenzaka.

Approaching the steps of Sannenzaka.

Looking back down Sannenzaka from the steps.

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January 12, 2017 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kyoto and Nara 2016, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: ねねの道, 町屋, 石塀小路, Gion, Higashiyama, History, Hokanji, Ishibei Koji, Japan, Jinja, Kiyomizu dera, Kyoto, machiya, Matsubara, Nene-no-Michi, Ninenzaka, pagoda, Sannenzaka, Shrine, Temple, Yasaka, zen, 八坂の塔, 八坂神社, 八坂通, 四条通, 東山, 松原通, 清水寺, 三年坂, 二年坂, 京都 | Leave a comment

DAY 1 (6/6): NIGHT AT KIYOMIZU-DERA (清水寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.03

As first time visitors to Kyoto, we were eager to see the autumn colours at the world famous Kiyomizu-dera (清水寺), especially when we knew that the iconic Kiyomizu Stage (清水の舞台) would undergo a major renovation starting from January 2017. It was the second last day of the season that Kiyomizu-dera opened for autumn special night viewing, and according to local weather forecast, Kyoto’s weather would turn bad in a day’s time. Without hesitation we hopped on a bus near Kitano Tenmangu and headed back to Higashiyama. We had some rest on the 45-minute bus ride. After getting off, we picked one alleyway to walk uphill. Soon we arrived at the magnificent Hokanji Yasaka Pagoda (法観寺八坂の塔). As we walked uphill, we felt like we were pilgrims going back in time, entering into a world of narrow stone alleyways, centuries-old timber houses and Buddhist buildings. Along the way, most shops were already closed, but a few souvenir and snack shops still opened to serve the night visitors of Kiyomizu-dera. Over our heads, we soon discovered a strong beam of blue light in the sky, pointing from Mount Otowa (音羽山) where the temple was situated, outwards to the infinite sky above the city. According to the official website, the light embodies the Kannon (観音)’s compassion, brightening the streets of the ancient city. For us, it was like a guidance leading us uphill. It get more crowded as we walked closer to the temple. Minutes later we arrived at the stepped plaza of Niomon Gate (仁王門). In front of the famous Saimon Gate (西門), we lined up to get our admission tickets from a temporary shelter and delightfully walked up the stair to enter the temple complex.

The autumn foliage at Kiyomizu-dera had past its peak a few days ago. Nonetheless, all visitors including us were excited to tour around the celebrated complex under the illuminations of floodlights and embellishment of the remaining autumn maples. At the main hall, we took off our shoes, paid our respect in front of the sanctuary, and admired the illuminated autumn colours down in the valley below Kiyomizu Stage. Standing 13m above the valley, the Kiyomizu Stage (清水の舞台) had been the centerpiece of the temple for centuries. Without using a single nail, the Kiyomizu Stage is made of 410 Hinoki wooden boards supported by 18 Zelkova pillars using the hole and grooves technique known as the Kakezukuri Method. From the stage, a stone path led us to the opposite side of the valley, where a large crowd gathered in front of Okunoin Hall (奥の院) looking back to admire the main hall and Kiyomizu Stage. Perched above the fire red maples, the huge roof of the main hall made of Hinoki bark and the lattice structure of Kiyomizu Stage looked gorgeously timeless, while the comet-like beam of blue light connected the temple with the glittering urban skyline beyond. The path overlooking the valley of colourful leaves then led us further away from the main hall until reaching the base of the small pagoda where we headed down to the valley. In the valley, a tree-lined path brought us all the way back to the bottom of the Kiyomizu Stage, where the adjacent Otowa waterfall (音羽の瀧) came down in three separated streams. Another crowd of visitors formed a long queue at the waterfall, waiting for their turn to drink the water with the special cup provided. As we headed to the temple exit, we passed by a mirror-like pond with magnificent reflections of autumn leaves and the orange Three-storey Pagoda above the cliff.

We were overjoyed for having such a fruitful day of sightseeing. To give this beautiful day a satisfying closure we opted for a late dinner. We walked downhill from Kiyomizu-dera, passed through Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社), and entered the lively district of Gion (祇園), the active area of traditional geisha. We picked Okaru (おかる), a small udon restaurant popular with geiko since established in 1923. We ordered two of their signature noodle bowls and felt truly grateful of finishing our wonderful first day of Kyoto.

Passing by the Hokanji Yasaka Pagoda (法観寺八坂の塔) as we headed up to Kiyomizu-dera.

Minutes later we arrived at the stepped plaza of Niomon Gate (仁王門).

In front of the famous Saimon Gate (西門), we lined up to get our admission tickets from a temporary shelter, while the beam of blue light shot up the sky behind the temple.

Stone statue in front of the Three-storey Pagoda.

Looking back out to the Three-storey Pagoda behind entering the main hall.

Visitors stepping into the timber structure of the main hall.

Inside the main hall, the sanctuary is consisted of three sections: outer, inner, and innermost. Only the outer sanctuary is open to the public.

Visitors gathered on the Kiyomizu Stage photographing the skyline of Kyoto.

The strong beam of blue light shot out from Mount Otowa behind the temple.

Behind the Kiyomizu Stage, a prominent stair led down to the Otowa waterfall.

Iconic overview of Kiyomizu Stage, main hall, autumn maples, blue light and Kyoto skyline.

The beam of blue light pointed towards Kyoto Tower in a distance.

The stair adjacent to the timber structure of the Kiyomizu Stage.

The amazing structure of Kiyomizu Stage lit up with floodlight.

Lanterns indicating special night viewing, which happens three times a year: cherry season in spring, three days of Thousand-day Pilgrimage/Special Viewing of nainaijin in the Main Hall in the summer, and the maple colours in autumn.