ZOOLOGICAL & BOTANICAL GARDENS (兵頭花園), Central (中環), Hong Kong
Famous for its restless and often stressful urban living, sparing the time to take a walk in the park can be a luxury for many Hong Kongers. In fact, many may not even notice the existence of parks and gardens in the business district of Hong Kong. Behind the towering skyscrapers of Central (中環), a rather hidden 5.6 hectares area on the slope of Victoria Peak stands the oldest public park in Hong Kong. Long before the city was promoted as a shopping paradise, or a foodie haven of Michelin star restaurants, or a recreational hub of amusement parks and vibrant nightlife, or an exotic destination of subtropical beaches and seaside hiking trails, Hong Kong Botanical Gardens (香港植物公園) was one of the primary tourist attractions in the Victoria City. Founded in 1864 and completely opened to the public in 1871, the gardens was established in times when botanical gardens were founded by colonial powers in different locations around the world. The Hong Kong Botanical Gardens was used by the British as a regional hub to study plant species collected from the Far East before transferring back to the Kew Gardens in England, or before planting at other areas in Hong Kong.
Bounded by Garden Road (花園道), Robinson Road (羅便臣道), Glenealy (己連拿利) and Upper Albert Road (上亞厘畢道) in the Mid-Levels (半山), Hong Kong Botanical Gardens is often referred to as Bing Tau Fa Yuen (兵頭花園) by the locals. Literally means “Head of Soldiers” Garden, “Bing Tau Fa Yuen” references to the former Governor’s House built at the Garden’s location. In 1975, the official name of the Gardens was changed to Hong Kong Zoological & Botanical Gardens (香港動植物公園), as a result to the growing collection of display animals. Despite initial researches of botanical science (which led to the founding of Hong Kong Herbarium in 1878) at the Gardens, most people would remember the Gardens as a place to check out animals and floral displays. Though the history of how the Gardens had played a role in botanic research for tree planting on the Hong Kong Island shall always be remembered. After all, transforming Hong Kong Island from a barren and rocky island with no forests, no trees and only grass in the 19th century (resulted from centuries of reckless deforestation) into the relatively lush green metropolis that we see today was no small feat.
Situated right across from my primary school, Bing Tau Fa Yuen is an essential part of my childhood memories. Going to Bing Tau Fa Yuen (兵頭花園) to check out the howler monkeys, orangutans, peacocks and even jaguars was a small after-school treat for me as a child. Every spring, Azalea (杜鵑花) would flourish across the park, attracting a large crowd to take selfies. Many years have gone by and the neighborhood has significantly transformed since my childhood’s time. Though the annual blossom at Bing Tau Fa Yuen is one of the few things that could remain unchanged throughout the years.
STONE WALL TREES (石牆樹), Central-Western District (中西區), Hong Kong
Entangling roots stretch across the surface of granite walls might remind people of the Ta Prohm Temple at Angkor Wat instead of the city of Hong Kong. Commonly known as “Stone Wall Trees” (石牆樹), the urban scenery of Chinese Banyan (Ficus microcarpa 細葉榕) enrooted on historical granite walls is a unique scene in Hong Kong, especially in Central-Western District where the heart of the old Victoria City was located. In 1841 when the British first landed in Hong Kong, the bare, rocky and hilly terrain of the island posed a huge challenge for establishing a settlement. Apart from land reclamation along the coast, the British also create habitable land by constructing flat terraces on the slope of Victoria Peak (Tai Ping Shan 太平山). From the mid 19th century onwards, local granite was used to construct retaining walls for the terrace constructions. To make the relatively bare island more habitable, trees were planted across the city to provide shade and visual interest. Many foreign tree species from other British colonies such as India and Australia were brought to Hong Kong. Due to its suitability to the local climate and ability to grow rapidly, Chinese Banyan (細葉榕) were widely planted. From these banyan trees, birds and bats ate the figs and spread the seeds all over the city, and into stone joints of the retaining walls. This led to the birth of the stone wall trees.
In 1996, scholar C.Y. Jim found 1275 trees with 30 or so species on about 505 stone walls. Ficus Microcarpa or Chinese Banyan is the most common type of stone wall trees. With hardly any soil to clinch into, these banyans take the wall as their host and spread their intertwining roots on the stone surfaces. After 50 to 100 years, these banyans gradually mature into shading crowns that we see today. Many of these old stone wall trees have survived to the present day, especially in Central – Western District which contains the city’s largest concentration of stone wall trees. The emergence of stone wall trees in Hong Kong, however, was no coincidence. Perfect climate conditions, suitable stone wall surface, and some good fortune of surviving the WWII when many old trees were cut down by the Japanese for timber, all played a part in the story of stone wall trees. After WWII, stone was soon replaced by concrete for retaining wall construction. Concrete walls left little room for new trees to enroot themselves by chance. After a few generations, the resilient stone wall trees have become iconic features for various old neighbourhoods.
Despite over a century serving to improve the micro-climate of the city, cultural and ecological significance of the stone wall trees have gone unnoticed until the recent two decades. In light of the government’s intention to demolish the former Police Married Quarters (PMQ) and its iconic stone wall trees in 2005, the local resident group “Central and Western Concern Group” was formed to fight for preserving the stone wall trees as well as the heritage building. Not only has their effort succeeded in convincing the government to preserve the PMQ, they have also increased the public awareness of the stone wall trees. In 2007, the Mass Transit Railway (MTR) decided to relocate a proposed exit for the new Kennedy Town Station in order to preserve the stone wall trees at Forbes Street. The admirable effort decisively preserved the largest concentration of stone wall trees in Hong Kong. Though not all cases were success stories. In 2015, five 150-year old stone wall banyans at Bonham Road were fell sneakily overnight, just because one of their neighbouring trees toppled some time ago due to heavy rain. In name of public safety, the five healthy trees were cut down before the arrival of a potential typhoon. No detailed study was made before the decision, and that particular typhoon didn’t even come close enough to pose any thread. The hasty action of the government led to a huge loss for the community and sparked public outcry. More and more people become aware that there is an urgent need to develop a strategic plan for protecting these unique urban stone wall trees before it is too late.
ROYAL BOTANICAL GARDEN, Peradeniya, Sri Lanka, 2019.12.10
Day 6 (2 of 3).
The Royal Botanical Gardens at Peradeniya is probably the second most popular attraction in or around Kandy after the Temple of the Tooth Relic. Lying at 5.5 km west of Kandy, the 147 acres garden was established in 1821 by Alexander Moon to house coffee and cinnamon plants. In 1843, plants from other gardens including the London’s Kew Garden were transplanted to Peradeniya to establish the Royal Botanical Gardens.
The Royal Botanical Gardens at Peradeniya is one of the about 230 tropical botanical gardens in South or Southeast Asia. Before 19th century, botanical gardens in Europe were mainly designated for scientific studies and classification. During the 19th century as colonialism extended to the east, botanical gardens were established by the Europeans in Asia as a research facility to study not only the science of plants, but also the techniques and economy of agriculture. The Royal Botanical Gardens at Peradeniya had contributed to the agricultural development of Ceylon, the former British colony in Sri Lanka. Today, it is a lovely park that opens for all who pay the admission.
The Royal Botanical Garden at Peradeniya is a pleasant park frequented by visitors of all ages, even for those who have little knowledge in botany and horticulture.
One of the first plants that caught our attention was Amherstia nobilis, or Pride of Burma, near the Great Circle.
The Great Circle was the first large lawn area we reached in the garden. Surrounding the circle were groves of different tropical trees.
We could hear strange noises coming from one of the groves. As soon as we walked closer, we discovered a large group of Indian flying foxes on the tree canopies.
The trees in the garden provides perfect resting spots for the bats during the day.
Apparently the bats were resting, but they often moved around and communicated with one another.
When a few of them took off in the air, we could appreciate the large wing span of the flying foxes.
With a wing span ranging from 1.2 – 1.5m, the Indian Flying Foxes are one of the world’s largest bat.
While the bats were busy pushing one another for a better spot, two cows had the entire grass field to themselves.
It was a unique experience to see so many trees were occupied by the resting flying foxes.
The three Royal Palm Avenue are probably the most recognizable scenes of the garden.
Stretching their branches like myriad of open arms, the Giant Java Fig Trees are the favourite photo spots for many.
The Giant Java Fig Trees occupy a large area of space among themselves.
Near the Giant Java Fig is another amazing giant.
Built in 1931 by the British, Peradeniya Sangili Palama is a suspension bridge that lies across the Mahaweli River.
Back to the Great Lawn, we stopped by another famous Giant Java Fig Tree.
Some called this the largest pruned tree in the world.
An interesting study on grass species from around the world.
It wasn’t really crowded so we had a good 2.5 hours of relaxing time at Royal Botanical Gardens at Peradeniya.
2,308-YEAR-OLD SACRED BODHI, Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka, 2019.12.06
Day 2 (4 of 5).
In 288BC, a sapling of Sri Maha Bodhi, the sacred fig tree in Buddha Gaya of India under which Lord Buddha attained enlightenment, was brought to Sri Lanka by Sangamitta Theri, the eldest daughter of Indian Emperor Ashoka the Great. The sapling was brought to the island in a golden vase on the ship, and planted by King Devanampiya Tissa on a 6.5m high terrace in the Mahamevnawa Gardens of Anuradhapura. Sangamitta stayed in Anurādhapura and established the nun-lineage of Bhikkhunī with several other Indian nuns. Along with his elder brother Mahinda, Sangamitta was a vital figure for spreading Buddhism to Sri Lanka. The ancient capital Anuradhapura continued to flourish and develop into a hub for Buddhist teachings that lasted for many centuries.
Today, the sacred tree Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi continues to thrive and has become one of the most important pilgrimage site for Buddhists around the world. The amazing 2308-year-old tree is also known as the oldest living tree planted by human hands on record. Given the significance of the tree, the Sri Lankan government banned all construction within 500m from it. Walls were also erected in the 18th century to protect the tree from wild elephants. Golden fence around the tree was later added in 1969. Buddha statues were placed at four sides of the sacred tree by different ancient kings. Ceremonies are held at the site to celebrate new year and several other festivals every year.
After a light lunch, we ventured out the Sanctuary Tissawewa and head east. Following the instruction given by the hotel staff, we found our way towards the legendary fig tree.
From the main road, we followed a pedestrian only path for about 10 minutes towards the sacred tree. At one point, we passed by a tree full of monkeys.
Most worshipers arrived at the sacred tree with lotus flower as offerings.
A green garden mat surrounds the terrace where the sacred Bodhi is located.
From the semicircular Moon stone (Sandakada pahana, a floor feature unique to Sinhalese architecture), worshipers would go up the steps to the shrine at the second level of the platform.
At each cardinal direction, a shrine is built for worshipers to leave their offerings and receive blessing from the monk.
The shrine is relatively simple, with an offering table and small Buddha statues.
Offerings of lotus flower can be seen at all Buddhist temples in Sri Lanka, including Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi.
Some shrines are more popular than the others.
Dressed in white, worshipers would leave a handful of lotus flower at the shrine, and receive blessing and a white string wrist bracelet from the monk of Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi.
At the platform, monks and worshipers interact and chat prayers towards the sacred Bodhi tree.
Behind the shrine further up the platform, we could see what must be the 2300 year old sacred Bodhi tree.
The lush green crown of the sacred tree provides a perfect backdrop for the golden features of the shrines and colouful Buddhist flags. The golden sunlight, peaceful aura, and sounds of rubbing leaves in the gentle breeze convey a strong sense of spirituality.
Structures painted in gold are erected to support certain branches of the sacred tree.
A small temple is located at one side of the platform.
Inside the temple, a decent sized worship hall houses a Buddhist statue.
Apart from the sacred Bodhi tree on the highest terrace, younger fig trees are planted at the lower platforms. These trees are meant to provide protection to the sacred tree against storm and animals.
We enjoyed the spiritual atmosphere of Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi. After checking out the shrines at all four sides of the sacred tree, we left the compound at the south gate.
Blue Lapis Road 