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Posts tagged “Stok

DAY 5: PHYANG VILLAGE, Ladakh, India

Our driver Tashi dropped us off at a bridge at the highest point of Phyang Village.  He suggested us to walk further downhill to first visit the tiny Guru Gompa atop a rocky mount and met us at the Phyang Gompa downhill.  We walked leisurely along the main road into Phyang, the village famous for the Phyang Gompa under the majestic backdrop of Mount Stok Kangri.  The glacial Phyang Nullah carved a narrow river valley into the rocky landscape, extended from the highlands where we just visited down to the village.  Along the nullah were terrace fields of barley, corn, rapeseed flowers, wheat and local vegetables.  Occasionally the lush green fields in the middle of the valley were used as pasture plains for livestock.

We passed by several local homes and reached an open area where several stupas stood.  We climbed the pathway beside the stupas up to a rocky mount where a small Buddhist shrine stood.  We figured it should be the Guru Gompa.  In front of Guru Gompa, there were a few dried goat horns and a colourful prayer flag.  The door was locked locked and no one was around.  From Guru Gompa we had a clear view of Phyang Village, Phyang Gompa and the mountain range beyond.  After a quiet moment on the rocky mount, we headed back down to the main road and continued walking downhill towards Phyang Gompa.  Founded in the 16th century, Phyang Gompa is one of the two monasteries in Ladakh belonged to the School of Drikung Kagyu.  The lamas opened the doors of one of the prayer halls for us.  We spent a short while wandering around the monastery and checked out the colourful stupas in front of the monastery.  By the time we were done visiting Phyang Gompa, Tashi was already at the main parking lot waiting for us.

dsc_5755Water channel led the glacial water of Phyang Nullah downhill to irrigate the farm fields of Phyang.

dsc_5774Terrace fields of rapeseed flowers offered a peaceful utopian setting for Phyang.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWalking down the main road of Phyang Village.

dsc_5779A village school at Phyang.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAHigh up on a rocky mount stood the Guru Gompa.

dsc_5800Dried goat horn by the entrance of Guru Gompa.

dsc_5791From Guru Gompa we had a clear view of the village down below and the river valley upstream.

dsc_5830Further downhill from Guru Gompa stood the famous Phyang Gompa.

dsc_5839Local shepherd and livestock.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASeveral green fields were used as pasture lands.

dsc_5845Stupas in front of the Phyang Gompa.

dsc_5892Lamas resting after lunch break at Phyang Gompa.

dsc_5900Young lama at a prayer wheel in Phyang Gompa.

dsc_5906The Phyang Gompa viewed from the stupa cluster.

dsc_5907A cluster of colourful stupas outside of Phyang Gompa.

dsc_5917View of the village from Phyang Gompa.

dsc_5921The Stok Mountain Range viewed from Phyang Gompa.

* * *

Other posts on 2016 Ladkadh & Delhi:
Introduction – LADAKH – The Land of High Passes, India
Day 1.1 – ENROUTE TO LEH, Ladakh
Day 1.2 – WALK TO MAIN BAZAAR, Leh, Ladakh
Day 1.3 – LEH PALACE, Leh, Ladakh
Day 1.4 – HOTEL LADAKH GREENS, Leh, Ladakh
Day 2.1 – NAMGYAL TSEMO GOMPA, Leh, Ladakh
Day 2.2 – LALA’S CAFE AND TIBETAN CUISINE, Leh, Ladakh
Day 2.3 – SPITUK GOMPA, Leh, Ladakh
Day 3.1 – MONASTERIES OF THE INDUS VALLEY DAY ONE, Ladakh (with map)
Day 3.2 – THIKSEY GOMPA, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 3.3 – CHEMREY & TAKTHOK GOMPA, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 3.4 – HEMIS & STAKNA GOMPA, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 3.5 – MATHO GOMPA & SHEY PALACE, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 4.1 – ON THE ROAD WEST OF LEH, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 4.2 – LAMAYURU GOMPA, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 4.3 – ALCHI & LIKIR GOMPA, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 4.4 – FORT ROAD IN THE EVENING, Leh, Ladakh
Day 5.1 – SHORT HIKE NEAR PHYANG, Ladakh
Day 5.2 – PHYANG VILLAGE, Ladakh
Day 5.3 – NOMADIC WOOLLEN MILLS & BON APPETIT, Leh, Ladakh
Day 6.1 – ZINGCHEN GORGE, Ladakh
Day 6.2 – SHANTI STUPA, Leh, Ladakh
Day 7.1 – LEH AIRPORT TO RED FORT, Delhi
Day 7.2 – RED FORT, Delhi
Day 7.3 – JAMA MASJID, Delhi
Day 7.4 – FAREWELL OLD DELHI, Delhi
Day 7.5 – UNITED COFFEE HOUSE, New Delhi

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DAY 5: SHORT HIKE NEAR PHYANG, Ladakh, India

Originally our last two full days in Ladakh was planned for a two-day tour to the Nubra Valley on the opposite side of Khardung La Pass, one of the world’s highest pass that can be reached by car at 5,359m.  Unfortunately, in the evening before our departure, we were told by the manager of Ladakh Greens Hotel that out trip to the Nubra was no longer possible.  In order to visit the region near the disputed border between India and China, all travelers are required to apply for a permit.  Since we were born in Hong Kong, our application was rejected by the local authorities.  As a result, we had no choice but to figure something else to do for the two days.  The hotel manager made a few suggested alternatives, and we picked two short hikes near Leh.  Trekking is big in Ladakh but we didn’t have enough time to do a decent trek.  Day hikes around Leh at least gave us a brief taste of hiking in Ladakh.

In the morning, Tashi picked us up at the hotel and drove us to Phyang, a village about 15km west of Leh.  The hotel manager suggested us to start our hike at a village called Dokla, but Tashi had trouble finding the way.  Instead he drove us further uphill from Phyang and stopped at a village where a few houses stood and a series of farming terraces were constructed overlooking the Stok Mountain Range.  Leaving Tashi behind, we get off the car, walked through a gateway of prayer flags, and headed up a small path towards the mountains behind Phyang.  We were told that the path would ultimately reach Nubra Valley in a few days’ time, where we were denied access to in the first place.  We hiked past a white stupa and followed a man-made irrigation channel uphill until we saw the clear running water of a mountain stream of melted water from mountain glaciers.  On a rocky mount dotted with wild flowers we sat down and had some quick snacks that the hotel chef prepared for us.  Across from where we sat a few tiny singing birds flew around piles of small pebbles.  After a brief stop we continued to walk uphill in the highlands near Phyang until we saw a small herd of grazing cattle from a distance upstream.

On our way back to Phyang we once again passed by the point where stream water was diverted for the irrigation system downstream.  Before reaching Tashi’s car, we passed by the white stupa once again.  A few people were putting fresh white paint on the stupa.  We exchanged some smiles and greetings with the friendly locals before heading back to Tashi’s car.  After a fine morning of hiking, Tashi suggested us to take a little break in the car while he drove us downhill to Phyang, where we could walk around the village and visit Phyang Gompa.  We gladly took his suggestion.

dsc_5521A tiny village uphill from Phyang where we started our hike.  The majestic Stok Kangri and the Stok Range offered a magnificent backdrop.

dsc_5517Gateway of prayer flags marked the exit of the village.

dsc_5522Many farming fields in the area were enclosed with low stone walls.

dsc_5530The white stupa overlooking the village.

dsc_5542The Stok Range in a distance.

dsc_5544Local agriculture is well organized by stone walls and irrigation channels.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOn the rocky mount where we had a quick snack time.

dsc_5602Wild highland flowers stay low near the ground to avoid strong wind.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWe kept walking uphill to follow the stream.

dsc_5603The river valley continued winding through the mountains uphill.

dsc_5640We reached a point where stream water was diverted into a small channel that fed the irrigation system downhill.

dsc_5608Further uphill we saw a small herd of grazing cattle.

dsc_5664Pile of stones left by perhaps hikers or local shepherd.

dsc_5680Strange earth formation beyond the stone walls

dsc_5709Cheerful locals doing maintenance work at the white stupa.

dsc_5719Once again we passed by the gateway of prayer flags on our return.

dsc_5726Close up of a prayer flag.

dsc_5731On a low wall someone left a book of local text.

dsc_5507Not all farmlands were planted with crops, but for the ones that had they looked healthy and green despite the arid climate.

dsc_5748Tashi drove us downhill to Phyang and dropped us off at a bridge.  We planned to wander around the village and met Tashi at the Phyang Gompa.

* * *

Other posts on 2016 Ladkadh & Delhi:
Introduction – LADAKH – The Land of High Passes, India
Day 1.1 – ENROUTE TO LEH, Ladakh
Day 1.2 – WALK TO MAIN BAZAAR, Leh, Ladakh
Day 1.3 – LEH PALACE, Leh, Ladakh
Day 1.4 – HOTEL LADAKH GREENS, Leh, Ladakh
Day 2.1 – NAMGYAL TSEMO GOMPA, Leh, Ladakh
Day 2.2 – LALA’S CAFE AND TIBETAN CUISINE, Leh, Ladakh
Day 2.3 – SPITUK GOMPA, Leh, Ladakh
Day 3.1 – MONASTERIES OF THE INDUS VALLEY DAY ONE, Ladakh (with map)
Day 3.2 – THIKSEY GOMPA, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 3.3 – CHEMREY & TAKTHOK GOMPA, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 3.4 – HEMIS & STAKNA GOMPA, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 3.5 – MATHO GOMPA & SHEY PALACE, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 4.1 – ON THE ROAD WEST OF LEH, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 4.2 – LAMAYURU GOMPA, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 4.3 – ALCHI & LIKIR GOMPA, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 4.4 – FORT ROAD IN THE EVENING, Leh, Ladakh
Day 5.1 – SHORT HIKE NEAR PHYANG, Ladakh
Day 5.2 – PHYANG VILLAGE, Ladakh
Day 5.3 – NOMADIC WOOLLEN MILLS & BON APPETIT, Leh, Ladakh
Day 6.1 – ZINGCHEN GORGE, Ladakh
Day 6.2 – SHANTI STUPA, Leh, Ladakh
Day 7.1 – LEH AIRPORT TO RED FORT, Delhi
Day 7.2 – RED FORT, Delhi
Day 7.3 – JAMA MASJID, Delhi
Day 7.4 – FAREWELL OLD DELHI, Delhi
Day 7.5 – UNITED COFFEE HOUSE, New Delhi

 


DAY 3: MONASTERIES OF THE INDUS VALLEY DAY ONE, Ladakh, India

After the first two days of leisure in Leh, on Day 3 and 4 we embarked upon our brief spiritual journey to visit a number of Tibetan monasteries along Indus River Valley.  For both days Hotel Ladakh Greens helped us to organize the itinerary and hire a driver.  With six monasteries and one palace in a single day, Day One turned out to be a busy but rewarding day of exploration at the Indus River Valley southeast of Leh.  We started early in the morning at around 5:30am in order to arrive on time to watch the morning prayer session at Thiksey Gompa.  After Thiksey, we continued to visit Chemrey and Takthok Gompa, the furthest lamaseries of the day.  Then we stopped for lunch at Hemis, the largest monasteries in Ladakh.  At around 2pm, we left Hemis and headed toward Stakna and Matho, two monasteries atop the rocky hills that perched above the Indus River Valley.  Before returning to Leh,  we had about an hour to wander around the ruins of Shey Palace, the former summer palace of Ladakh’s royal family.  It was already 7pm by the time we arrived back in Leh.  In the next four posts we would share our Day One monastery experience with you.

map indus valley_EDITEDFor two full days we ventured out of Leh to explore the monasteries in the Indus River Valley.  On the first day, we headed southeast to check out the monastery cluster closer to Leh (places highlighted in orange on the map above).  The next day we went further away from Leh at the opposite direction to complete our brief monasterial encounter (places in green on the map above).

DSC_3909Early morning view of Stok Mountain Range on our way to the Thiksey Gompa.

DSC_4122On the road, we encountered many colorfully decorated Tata trucks.

DSC_4280.JPGConstruction site near Hemis Gompa.  Apart from military establishments and Buddhist stupas, construction of buildings with a traditional touch could be found occasionally upon the desert landscape in the middle of nowhere.

DSC_4455Newly built mosques revealed the growth of Islamic population in the region.

DSC_4459We passed by the dramatic Thiksey Gompa in distant a few times throughout the day.

DSC_4566Our driver and vehicle of the day.

DSC_4576Crossing a river bridge full of prayer flags on our way to the Shey Palace.

DSC_4733Returning to Leh with the Stok Mountains glowing in the late afternoon sun.

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Other posts on 2016 Ladkadh & Delhi:
Introduction – LADAKH – The Land of High Passes, India
Day 1.1 – ENROUTE TO LEH, Ladakh
Day 1.2 – WALK TO MAIN BAZAAR, Leh, Ladakh
Day 1.3 – LEH PALACE, Leh, Ladakh
Day 1.4 – HOTEL LADAKH GREENS, Leh, Ladakh
Day 2.1 – NAMGYAL TSEMO GOMPA, Leh, Ladakh
Day 2.2 – LALA’S CAFE AND TIBETAN CUISINE, Leh, Ladakh
Day 2.3 – SPITUK GOMPA, Leh, Ladakh
Day 3.1 – MONASTERIES OF THE INDUS VALLEY DAY ONE, Ladakh (with map)
Day 3.2 – THIKSEY GOMPA, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 3.3 – CHEMREY & TAKTHOK GOMPA, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 3.4 – HEMIS & STAKNA GOMPA, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 3.5 – MATHO GOMPA & SHEY PALACE, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 4.1 – ON THE ROAD WEST OF LEH, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 4.2 – LAMAYURU GOMPA, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 4.3 – ALCHI & LIKIR GOMPA, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 4.4 – FORT ROAD IN THE EVENING, Leh, Ladakh
Day 5.1 – SHORT HIKE NEAR PHYANG, Ladakh
Day 5.2 – PHYANG VILLAGE, Ladakh
Day 5.3 – NOMADIC WOOLLEN MILLS & BON APPETIT, Leh, Ladakh
Day 6.1 – ZINGCHEN GORGE, Ladakh
Day 6.2 – SHANTI STUPA, Leh, Ladakh
Day 7.1 – LEH AIRPORT TO RED FORT, Delhi
Day 7.2 – RED FORT, Delhi
Day 7.3 – JAMA MASJID, Delhi
Day 7.4 – FAREWELL OLD DELHI, Delhi
Day 7.5 – UNITED COFFEE HOUSE, New Delhi


DAY 1: LEH PALACE, Leh, Ladakh, India

Towering over the main bazaar stands Leh Palace, the 9-storey restored complex was the former royal family of the Namgyal dynasty of Ladakh.  Modeled after Lhasa’s Potala Palace, the Leh Palace served as the royal residence for three centuries until Ladakh’s royalty was forced out of Leh by the Dogra forces.  Nowadays, the ruined palace has been restored by the Archaeological Survey of India and became the most prominent tourist attraction of the city.

Despite a little tired, we wouldn’t want to end the day without seeing the iconic Leh Palace.  Near the bazaar, we found a taxi to take us for the short uphill journey.  As we approached the palace, stunning panorama of Leh was right below us.  After paying the admission, we walked into the palace from the side entrance.  Through dark hallways and narrow stairs, we explored the labyrinth like complex one level at a time.  All rooms were long been emptied.  Occasional wall paintings and colourful timber carvings revealed the former glory of the once splendid palace.  Today, most visitors came to Leh Palace for the spectacular views from the balconies, terraces and rooftops, including us.  Yellowish sunlight and long shadows were cast on the small temple below the palace entrance.

DSC_3451Stone path leading to the side entrance of Leh Palace.

DSC_3584Beautiful wood carvings at the palace entrance.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERADark hallways and narrow stairs connect to all spaces of the palace.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERABalconies and terraces existed on every level.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAVisitors were delighted to reach the terraces at various levels.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAMost of the flat roofs were accessible for tourists.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAVisitors having a good time in front of the dramatic backdrop of Leh and the Stok Mountain Range.

DSC_3505Interior of the former royal chamber.

DSC_3514The colourful timber carvings survived in the arid climate of Ladakh.

DSC_3530Finally we reached the topmost two levels of the roof and had a perfect view of the Namgyal Tsemo Monastery up the rocky hill.

DSC_3546With Stok Kangri (6153m) being the highest peak, the prominent Stok Range provided a dramatic backdrop for Leh.

DSC_3554Outside of Leh town centre, earthy houses scatter on the rocky slopes of the surrounding mountains.

DSC_3576View of the main bazaar of Leh.

DSC_3574Main building of Leh Palace with the former royal chamber at the top level.

DSC_3578Terraces at different levels of Leh Palace.

DSC_3581Fortress-like external walls of Leh Palace.

DSC_3586We exited the complex from the same entrance we entered the palace.

DSC_3592It was late afternoon by the time we left Leh Palace.  There was a small monastery, Chandazik Gompa, below the palace entrance.

DSC_3593The small gathering courtyard of Chandazik Gompa overlooking the city of Leh.

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Other posts on 2016 Ladkadh & Delhi:
Introduction – LADAKH – The Land of High Passes, India
Day 1.1 – ENROUTE TO LEH, Ladakh
Day 1.2 – WALK TO MAIN BAZAAR, Leh, Ladakh
Day 1.3 – LEH PALACE, Leh, Ladakh
Day 1.4 – HOTEL LADAKH GREENS, Leh, Ladakh
Day 2.1 – NAMGYAL TSEMO GOMPA, Leh, Ladakh
Day 2.2 – LALA’S CAFE AND TIBETAN CUISINE, Leh, Ladakh
Day 2.3 – SPITUK GOMPA, Leh, Ladakh
Day 3.1 – MONASTERIES OF THE INDUS VALLEY DAY ONE, Ladakh (with map)
Day 3.2 – THIKSEY GOMPA, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 3.3 – CHEMREY & TAKTHOK GOMPA, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 3.4 – HEMIS & STAKNA GOMPA, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 3.5 – MATHO GOMPA & SHEY PALACE, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 4.1 – ON THE ROAD WEST OF LEH, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 4.2 – LAMAYURU GOMPA, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 4.3 – ALCHI & LIKIR GOMPA, Indus Valley, Ladakh
Day 4.4 – FORT ROAD IN THE EVENING, Leh, Ladakh
Day 5.1 – SHORT HIKE NEAR PHYANG, Ladakh
Day 5.2 – PHYANG VILLAGE, Ladakh
Day 5.3 – NOMADIC WOOLLEN MILLS & BON APPETIT, Leh, Ladakh
Day 6.1 – ZINGCHEN GORGE, Ladakh
Day 6.2 – SHANTI STUPA, Leh, Ladakh
Day 7.1 – LEH AIRPORT TO RED FORT, Delhi
Day 7.2 – RED FORT, Delhi
Day 7.3 – JAMA MASJID, Delhi
Day 7.4 – FAREWELL OLD DELHI, Delhi
Day 7.5 – UNITED COFFEE HOUSE, New Delhi