salt | Blue Lapis Road

GREAT SAND SEA, Siwa Oasis, Egypt

2006.06.02.

With an area of approximately 72,000 square metres stretching across western Egypt and eastern Libya, the sand dunes of the Great Sand Sea offer visitors an opportunity to experience a sandy Sahara. Sand seas only cover a minor part of the world’s largest hot desert. The majority of the Sahara is in fact rocky and barren. The remote Siwa Oasis is a popular base to explore the Egyptian side of the Great Sand Sea. Getting out to the vast sea of sand requires a 4×4 vehicle. Most tourists would join a local tour for either an overnight stay in the desert or a half day visit that ends with watching the sunset from the dunes. I opted for an overnight tour. After all, it was such a romantic concept to sleep under the Milky Way in the open Sahara. I shared the 4×4 desert tour with a young American couple. Our 4×4 spent sped out the oasis and spent much of the afternoon doing “roller-coaster” runs up and down the sand dunes. To enjoy the full excitement, the driver told us to sit on top of the 4×4.

After some chill out time on the dunes, we were dropped off at a campsite right by a small artificial pool. After a simple meal, we got to choose to either stay inside a simple stone shelter for the night, or spread out our provided rug and sheets nearby to claim an open spot on the sand. I slept a bit and woke up at around 2am. As soon as I opened my eyes, the imposing Milky Way was right over my head. Until my other stargazing experiences in the Atacama during my 2013 South American journey, the starry sky that night over the Great Sand Sea was probably the most beautiful that I have ever seen.

Doing a desert tour in the Sahara was like a dream came true for me.

Low light in the afternoon over the Great Sand Sea offered me a delightful moment for photography.

The afternoon desert scenery was as romantic as anyone could have hoped for.

After several rounds of roller-coaster runs on the dunes, our 4×4 had a flat tire.

The driver immediately stopped the vehicle and changed the tire on the spot.

Probably caused by the wind, the wavy pattern of the sand worked perfectly with the low afternoon light.

The wavy pattern appeared more obvious at certain spots in the desert.

At one point, we walked to the top of a sand dune and did some sand tobogganing.

Our campsite was close to some large sand dunes.

Probably because of the water, more vegetation could be found near our campsite.

Not until early morning that I could notice the patches of salt on the ground near our campsite.

Our campsite was centered at a small pool.

November 27, 2020 | Categories: Africa: Middle East, China: Anhui and Hangzhou 2015, Egypt, Middle East 2006, Siwa Oasis | Tags: 4x4, camp, campsite, desert, dune, Great Sand Sea, jeep, Libya, milky way, night, oasis, salt, sand, Siwa, stars, Western Desert | Leave a comment

CLEOPATRA’S SPRING, Siwa Oasis, Egypt

2006.06.02.

With a constant temperature of 29 degrees Celsius, the Ain Juba or Cleopatra’s Spring is a popular tourist attraction near Siwa Oasis. While some say Cleopatra swam in the pool during her visit to the oasis, many other historians dispute about this legend and insist that the spring has nothing to do with the famous Queen of Egypt. The spring is nonetheless ancient and well known in times of antiquity. Referred as the Fountain of the Sun by Herodotus, legend has it that Alexander the Great followed a group of birds in the desert and reached the famous spring during his conquest of Persia. From history to the present, the spring remains as a reliable treat of a cool refreshing dip for tired travellers.

Many tourists reach the pool as part of a local tour going out to the Great Sand Sea, it can also be reached by cycling on the road to the Temple of the Oracle. For me, I have done both, first as part of a local tour on the way to stay a night in the desert, and second time by bicycle on my way to the ruined temple. On my first time, I spent most of my time chatting with the friendly pool caretaker in the pool hut. I didn’t notice any bather during my two visits. Given the fact that swimmers were advised to bath with a t-shirt on in respect to local customs, I didn’t get into the famous water myself given I didn’t have an extra t-shirt with me on both occasions.

I joined a Jeep tour out to the Great Sand Sea. Along the way, we passed by a salt flat and Cleopatra’s Spring.

Salt flats are common in deserts around the world where water from former lakes have been evaporated, leaving behind salt and minerals on the ground.

Known as Qattara Depression, the area west of Siwa is the second lowest point in Africa. Covered with salt flats, salt marshes and sand dunes, dangerous quagmires are not uncommon in the depression. During WWII, Qattara Depression was considered impassable for military vehicles and tanks due to the danger of quagmires.

There are a number of springs in the area of Siwa Oasis, including Cleopatra’s Spring, Ain Tamusi (Spring of the Bridge), Ain Arais, Fatnas Spring, Ain Qurayshat, Bir Wahed, etc.

Trapped in subterranean chambers, there is actually plenty of spring water below the Western Desert. At a level below the sea, subterranean spring water is much easier to access in the Qattara Depression.

Well maintained by caretakers, the Cleopatra’s Spring is frequented by locals and tourists.

The main pool at Cleopatra’s Spring is circumscribed by a retaining stone wall.

Resting huts and tea houses dot around the pool.

Spring water in Siwa is highly salinized. There is a significant amount of ulvacean green algae in the spring water.

November 25, 2020 | Categories: Africa: Middle East, Egypt, Middle East 2006, Siwa Oasis | Tags: algae, bath, Cleopatra, Egypt, Juba, lake, oasis, palm, pool, Qattara, salt, Siwa, spring, water | Leave a comment

SALINAS DE MARAS & MORAY, Sacred Valley, Peru

After Ollantaytambo, we headed back to Urubamba, the largest town in the Sacred Valley. At Urubamba, we hired a taxi for the Salinas de Maras (Salt Pans of Maras) and Moray, the archaeological site Inca terraces. The drive to the remote Salinas de Maras was full of breathtaking views of the Urupampa Mountain Range at the opposite side of the Urubamba Valley (Sacred Valley), including Mountain Ch’iqun at about 5,530m above sea level.

Salinas de Maras is a salt mine of roughly 3000 small pools along the hillside of a mountain. Each pool yields about 150 kg of salt per month. The pools are fed by a hotspring with a high concentration of sodium. As the water evaporates, crystallized salts are left behind for harvest. This salt mine has been in operation since the ancient times. Little has changed for the past hundreds of years.

After Salinas de Maras, our taxi driver drove us to the nearby Moray site, an Inca ruins of remarkable circular terraces. The purpose of Moray was unknown, but most archaeologists believe that the circular terraces of Moray were once an Inca outdoor testing lab for agricultural experiments to study the effects of different micro-climates and soil conditions on crops.

We stayed at Moray for a short while, but didn’t have enough time to venture down to the bottom. We lingered at the top of Moray ruins and the nearby area to take in the magnificent scenery of Urupampa Mountain Range until the sun began to set. Standing at over 3500m elevation, many peaks stood in front of us across the Sacred Valley on the Urupampa Mountain Range were over 5000m above sea level. We were grateful for ending our day of the Sacred Valley with such a peaceful scenery, a moment of cool breezes, fast moving clouds, fading sunlight, and majestic Urupampa Mountains.

We returned to Urubamba for the return bus ride back to Cusco. Upon arrival, we were all hungry and tired. We decided to treat ourselves a delicious dinner at one of the most well known tapas restaurants in the city, the Cicciolina. Under the atmospheric setting of Cicciolina, we had one of the best meal of our entire trip. This was the place where we took the courage to try a “cuy” dish (guinea pigs). On the Andes, guinea pigs have long been a source of meat since ancient times.

On the road to Salinas de Maras with Mountain Ch’iqun as the backdrop.

Our taxi is approaching the salt mine, Salinas de Maras.

The scene of a myriad of salt pools at Salinas de Maras was quite stunning.

Staff could be seen working at the salt pools at Salinas de Maras.

A water channel that diverts the salty water into the pools.

The water channel that feeds the different salt pools.

A water channel that diverts the salt water into the pools.

Shadow of the mountain was cast onto the pools.

The Salinas de Maras with the Sacred Valley in the distant.

The various shades of earthy colours of the salt pools at Salinas de Maras.

As the water evaporates, crystallized salts are left behind for harvest.

Moray, an Inca ruins near the village of Maras, was an ancient outdoor testing grounds for agriculture.

As evening approached, we had no choice but to embark on our return journey to Urubamba.

We were at the elevation of over 3500m, embraced by mountainous scenery including the Urupampa Mountain Range across the valley. As evening approached, we bidded farewell to the breathtaking scenery of Mountain Ch’iqun and the Urupampa Mountain Range and headed back to Cusco.

Back to Cusco, we headed to the guidebook-recommended Cicciolina Tapas Restaurant to end our long day with an exciting meal.

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Read other posts on Peru Trip 2010

LIMA
1. Peru Trip 2010
2. Bumpy Arrival, Lima & Arequipa, Peru
AREQUIPA & COLCA CANYON
3. Monasterio de Santa Catalina, Arequipa, Peru
4. Plaza de Armas, Arequipa, Peru
5. Volcanoes and Vicuna, Pampa Canahuas Natural Reserve, Patahuasi, and Patapampa, Peru
6. Yanque, Colca Canyon, Peru
7. Cruz del Condor, Colca Canyon, Peru
8. Farming Terraces, Colca Canyon, Peru
PUNO & TITICACA
9. Road to Titicaca, Colca Canyon to Puno, Peru
10. Afternoon on Taquile Island, Titicaca, Peru
11. Morning on Taquile, Titicaca, Peru
12. Inka Express, Puno to Cusco, Peru
CUSCO & SACRED VALLEY
13. Pisac & Ollantaytambo, Sacred Valley, Peru
14. Salinas de Maras, & Moray, Sacred Valley, Peru
15. Lucuma Milkshake & Plaza de Armas, Cusco, Peru
16. Saksaywaman, Cusco, Peru
INCA TRAIL
17. KM 82 to Wayllabamba, Inca Trail, Peru
18. Wayllabamba to Pacamayo, Inca Trail, Peru
19. Pacasmayo to Winay Wayna, Inca Trail, Peru
20. Winay Wayna to Machu Picchu, Inca Trail, Peru
21. Machu Piccu, Inca Trail, Peru
22. Machu Picchu in Black and White, Inca Trail, Peru
23. Afterthought, Inca Trail, Peru
LAST DAY IN CUSCO & LIMA
24. Farewell to the Incas, Cusco, Peru
25. Last Day in Peru, Lima, Peru

January 25, 2016 | Categories: Cusco and Sacred Valley, Peru, Peru 2010 | Tags: Andean, Andes, archaeology, Ch'iqun, Cusco, Cuzco, Inca, Maras, Moray, mountains, Ollantaytambo, Peru, ruins, Sacred Valley, Salinas, salt, South America, Travel, Urubamba, Urupampa | Leave a comment

DAY 41 (4 OF 5) – SALAR DE UYUNI, SOUTHWEST CIRCUIT DAY 4, BOLIVIA

The Salar de Uyuni (Uyuni Salt Flat) is one of the most well known geographic feature in Bolivia. About 40,000 years ago, the salt flat was part of the prehistoric Lake Minchin. When Lake Minchin dried up, it left behind two lakes and two major salt flats, with the biggest being Salar de Uyuni. Today, Salar de Uyuni is the biggest salt flat in the world, and is visible even from the space. The Salar de Uyuni stays dry for most of the year, except for the wet season when it would be flooded by water. Every year during wet season, incoming water would bring salt from the surrounding area. When the water evaporates, a new layer of salt would be formed. The annual layering of salt deposit is clearly visible from the salt blocks that the locals sometimes use as building materials. Apart from tourism, salt and rare earth extraction are some of the major industries here. In the near future, the government is planning to expand the mining of lithium (vital component for electronic batteries) at the salt flat.

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Read more on Southwest Circuit, Bolivia in 2013 South America:

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought

November 24, 2013 | Categories: Bolivia, Day 41 to 50, Southwest Altiplano | Tags: Altiplano, Bolivia, flat, highland, mountains, Salar de Uyuni, salt, Southwest Circuit, Uyuni | Leave a comment

DAY 41 (3 OF 5) – ISLA INCAHUASI AT UYUNI SALT FLAT, SOUTHWEST CIRCUIT DAY 4, BOLIVIA

It was such strange beauty when we first saw Isla Incahuasi (Inca House Island). Located in the middle of Uyuni Salt Flat, the unique island is full of giant cacti. Many rocks on this former volcano are actually fossilized corals, reminding us that 40,000 years ago the salt flat was once Lake Minchin, a prehistoric lake that has since dried up. On Isla Incahuasi, the tallest cactus is about 9m tall. At the top, Isla Incahuasi offers a good views of the salt flat and distant mountains.

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Read more on Southwest Circuit, Bolivia in 2013 South America:

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November 24, 2013 | Categories: Bolivia, Day 41 to 50, Southwest Altiplano | Tags: Bolivia, flat, highland, Isla Incahuasi, mountains, Salar de Uyuni, salt, Southwest Circuit, Uyuni | Leave a comment

DAY 41 (2 OF 5) – SUNRISE AT UYUNI SALT FLAT, SOUTHWEST CIRCUIT DAY 4, BOLIVIA

Finally we were on our way out to the Uyuni Salt Falt. The sky was already pretty bright as our 4×4 rushed out to the open whiteness looking for the perfect spot to see the sunrise. The moon was getting lower and lower on our left, and gradually disappeared under the horizon. After half an hour, the driver stopped our 4×4. We opened the door and made our first steps onto the famous Uyuni Salt Flat just after dawn. The view to the distant mountains under the early morning sunlight was sublime.