Rinzai | Blue Lapis Road

DAY 2 (4/6): ○△□ and Chouontei Garden and Ceiling of Twin Dragons, KENNINJI TEMPLE (建仁寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.04

Claimed to be the oldest Zen Buddhist temple in Kyoto, Kenninji Temple (建仁寺) is a Buddhist temple famous for its zen gardens and traditional paintings in Gion (祇園). Kenninji was founded in 1202 by Buddhist priest Eisai/Yousai (明菴栄西). Two times Yousai went to China and brought back with him Zen scriptures and tea seeds, from which Zen Buddhism and the practice of green tea drinking flourished in Japan ever since. As a result, Yousai was also considered to be the founder of the tea ceremony in Japan. Since the 14th century, Kenninji was considered one of the five most important Zen Buddhist temples in Kyoto, known as the Gozan (五山十刹制度) or the Five Mountain System. Today, Kenninji stands at third in this ranking system, behind Tenryuji (天龍寺) and Shokokuji (相国寺), and ahead of Tofukuji (東福寺) and Manjuji (万寿寺). On top of this five temples is Nanzenji, which serves as the leading Zen Buddhist temple in today’s Kyoto.

Today, with its meditation gardens, ancient teahouse, and timber halls, Kenninji serves as a tranquil oasis in the busy and dense neighborhood of Gion. We entered the Kenninji compound from its North Gate at Hanamikoji Dori. Once inside, we took off our shoes and paid our admission at Hojo (方丈). Inside Hojo, one of the most popular art work on display was “Fujin and Raijin”, a pair of two-folded screen depicting the Wind and Thunder Gods by Tawaraya Sotatsu (俵屋宗達) from the early 17 century. The dry landscape garden in front of Hojo was also quite impressive, so as the traditional paintings on the sliding doors of the building, including the Cloud Dragon (雲龍図) and Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove (竹林七賢図). But for us, the most amazing artwork at Kenninji was Twin Dragons (双龍図), a 11.4m x 15.7m ceiling mural by Koizumi Junsaku in the Hatto (法堂), or Dharma Hall to celebrate the 800-year anniversary of the temple. Completed in 2002, it took Koizumi Junsaku two years to finish this enormous ceiling painting in the gymnasium of an elementary school in Hokkaido.

Also worth noting was the Toyobo Tea-house, a two mat tea room dated back to the 16th century. We peeked through an opening into the tea-house and saw a simple interior with tatami flooring and a semi-open partition supported by a natural wooden branch as column. Before leaving, we spent a considerable period of time at Choontei Garden (潮音庭), a beautifully constructed zen garden surrounded by wooden verandas. At Choontei, there were three stones at the centre of the courtyard, representing Buddha and two Zen monks. Choontei was also the perfect courtyard to sit on the veranda and admire the autumn maples. On our way out, we passed by another small courtyard which named as ○△□. The serene garden introduces landscape components such as a tree in circular planter or a square area of gravel as visual representations of ○△□, which symbolized water, fire and earth. The spiritual experience of the gardens, the lovely visual palette of the dark timber, green moss and crimson maples, and the refreshing breeze and warm sunlight enabled us to enjoy a moment of meditation. Leaving this tranquil dimension, we would meander through Gion, cross the picturesque Kamo River, and enter the busy streets of Downtown Kyoto.

Entering the Hojo (方丈) Hall, which was built in 1599.

The first thing of the visit was to take off our shoes.

Centuries-old timber structure of the Hojo (方丈) Hall.

“Fujin and Raijin”or the Wind and Thunder God, is the most popular artworks in Kenninji Temple.

The semi open interior space of Hojo (方丈) allows sunlight to enter the building from different directions.

Visitors sitting by the veranda of Hojo to admire the dry landscape garden.

The Cloud Dragon screen paintings at the Hojo were by 16th century artist Kaiho Yusho.

The elegant prayer hall of Hojo with the painting of Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove (竹林七賢図) on the sliding screens.

Zen Garden or the dry landscape garden at Hojo.

Visitors relaxed themselves at the veranda in front of the Zen Garden.

We saw quite a number of young women dressed traditional kimono dress in several sights of Kyoto, including Kenninji.

The enormous ceiling mural of Twin Dragons (双龍図) in the Hatto (法堂) or the Dharma Hall.

Twin Dragons over the main altar at Hatto.

A stone tsukubai (蹲踞) or stone waterbasin in the tea house garden of Kenninji.

The minimalist Toyobo Tea-house was built in 1587.

A path of stone pavers connected a prayer pavilion with the building’s veranda.

Chouontei Garden (潮音庭) as viewed from the inside.

Awesome autumn colours at Chouontei Garden (潮音庭).

Deep sense of autumn at Chouontei Garden (潮音庭).

Overview of Chouontei Garden (潮音庭), with the San-zon seki (the three stones that represent Buddha and two Zen monks.

The ○△□ Garden (○△□乃庭) was a simple Zen garden.

The ○△□ symbolizes water, fire and earth.

Leaving Kenninji behind, we were ready to venture into Downtown Kyoto to experience the other side of the ancient city.

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January 22, 2017 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kyoto and Nara 2016, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: abbot, Architecture, autumn, ○△□, Buddhism, Buddhist, ceiling, courtyard, 竹林七賢図, dragon, Eisai, 雲龍図, fall, foliage, Fujin, Fujin and Raijin, garden, Gion, gozan, Higashiyama, house, Japan, Kenninji, Koizumi Junsaku, Kyoto, maples, Raijin, Rinzai, Tawaraya Sotatsu, tea, Temple, timber, zen, 明菴栄西, 五山十刹制度, 京都, 潮音庭, 俵屋宗達 | Leave a comment

DAY 1 (2/6): RYOANJI TEMPLE (龍安寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.03

We first learnt about Ryoanji Temple and its world renowned garden of zen dry landscape or Japanese rock garden, karesansui (枯山水), back in our university years from the lectures in our class ARCH 249 – The Art and Architecture of the East. Since then, we had longed for visiting this legendary zen garden. Our chance had come at midday in a fine late autumn day. The Rinzai Zen Buddhist temple is situated within a garden compound, consisting of a water pond, woodlands, gardens, pavilions, and the main building complex where the Abbot’s Chamber, Tearoom, Buddhist Hall, and the famous zen garden can be found.

It was a short walk from the San-mon (山門), or the main entrance, to the main building complex. We took our time to admire the magnificent autumn foliage along the way. Once inside the main building, we took off our shoes and purchased admission tickets. First came a dim exhibition hall showcasing artefacts, calligraphy, and artworks related to the temple. Beyond the exhibition hall was the bright wooden veranda where most visitors gathered. On one side of the veranda was the Hojo (方丈), or Abbot’s Chamber, while on the other side lay the famous zen garden: 15 rocks of various sizes abstractly arranged in a 248 s.m area of dry pebbles. Since the 15th century, there were various interpretations regarding the design and meaning behind the rocks, from symbolism of ancient Chinese mythologies to representation of traditional character. It is open for everyone’s imagination and interpretation. We sat down at the veranda to contemplate the rocks and pebbles. The garden was too crowded with visitors for any decent meditation or tranquil moment in heart. Against the centuries-old oil-earthen wall and the autumn foliage beyond, the garden still captured our eyes visually despite the undesirable midday sun.

After putting back on our shoes, we followed another path that meandered through a small woodland of amazing autumn foliage, passed by Yudofu (西源院) – a traditional restaurant serving tofu meals, and strolled along Kyoyochi (鏡容池), or Mirror Pond, where we enjoyed a picturesque scene of reflections, water plants and autumn foliage. Before setting off for our next destination, we had a quick skewer of sweet rice balls near the entrance of Ryoanji.

A sense of autumn immediately beyond the San-mon (山門) or the main gate of Ryoanji.

An illustration of the Ryoanji Temple compound with the famous rock garden at the centre back location in front of the orange roof Abbot’s Chamber.

We were just in time to see the last bit of amazing autumn foliage of Kyoto.

Tree-lined path leading to the Chokushi-Mon Gate (勅使門).

Steps leading to Chokushi-Mon Gate (勅使門).

Like many temples in Kyoto, we had to take off our shoes before entering the temple building of Ryoanji.

Traditional illustration of the rock garden, which is believed to be constructed in the 15th century. Who was the original designer remains unknown.

Our first view of Ryoanji rock garden under the unforgiving midday sun. It would be much better off if it was overcast and gone with the shadows.

Rock clusters, moss, pebble patterns, earthen walls and red foliage coincided to form a harmonious imagery.

Patterns of the pebbles are carefully maintained by temple staff, a daily duty for Zen Buddhist monks in the past.

The timber floor decking and supporting members were soft and warm to walk on and appealing for touch.

Timber details of the eaves and column.

Interior of Hojo (方丈), Abbot’s Chamber, in which the centre point should be the ideal viewing spot of the entire rock garden.

The timber veranda continued to wrap around the courtyards into the temple sections not open to public.

A wonderful pine tree against autumn foliage in front of the main temple building.

A side door of the rock garden remained closed.

On our way out we walked through a small woodland of magnificent colours.

The autumn foliage in Kyoto is quite different than the ones we used to see in North America, in terms of leaf sizes and colour ranges.

Yudofu (西源院) – a traditional restaurant serving tofu meals.

Duck and autumn foliage at Kyoyochi (鏡容池), Mirror Pond.

Despite the amount of visitors alongside, it was a nice walk along the Mirror Pond.

After a pleasant visit of Ryoanji, we were ready to see the other temples in the area.

***

December 29, 2016 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kyoto and Nara 2016, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: abbot, autumn, beauty, Buddhism, Buddhist, Chokushi-Mon, design, dry, earth, 鏡容池, 龍安寺, fall, foliage, garden, heritage, History, Japan, Japanese, karesansui, Kyoto, Kyoyochi, landscape, maples, Rinzai, rock, Ryoanji, Temple, UNESCO, veranda, wall, woods, zen, 勅使門, 枯山水, 京都 | Leave a comment

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Posts tagged “Rinzai”

DAY 2 (4/6): ○△□ and Chouontei Garden and Ceiling of Twin Dragons, KENNINJI TEMPLE (建仁寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.04

DAY 1 (2/6): RYOANJI TEMPLE (龍安寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.03