ultramarinus – beyond the sea

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DAY 7: EVEREST BASE CAMP (珠峰大本營), Tibet (西藏)

Formed by Everest’s Rongphu Glacier (絨布冰川), the Rongphu Valley offers us a designated natural approach to the majestic Mount Everest from its north side.  The valley stretches from Rongphu Monastery (རྫ་རོང་ཕུ་དགོན་ 絨布寺) in the north to Mount Everest in the south.   In front of Rongphu Glacier sits the base camp for professional climbers.  Somewhere between the climber’s base camp and Rongphu Monastery lies the Tent Village catered for the rest of the visitors.  At the terminus of Zhufeng Road (Mount Everest Road), the Tent Village is the closest spot to Mount Everest accessible by vehicle.

screen 3Thanks to Google Maps, we can now obtain a clear three dimensional birdeye’s view of the Tent City of Everest Base Camp and Mount Everest.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASlightly after 6pm, we had finally entered the Tent Village of Everest Base Camp.  The first impression was like arriving at a busy parking lot in a valley.

01Crafted by the Rongphu Glacier (絨布冰川), the base camp is flanked by peculiar rock cliffs towering up the sky.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOur driver Sangzhu parked the car and led us into Tent 21.  Apparently all tents were pretty much identical with similar price per bed.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAInside Tent 21, there were about 8 bed spaces in a common dorm setting, a shelf of food and drinks, a stove, a few tables and a counter selling tourist souvenir.  The owner also stayed with us in the tent.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIn the middle of the Tent Village, there was the world’s highest post office where a few tourists were waiting for the postman’s return.  Apparently the post office doesn’t sell postal stamps there but can mail out postcards if a postal stamp is already attached.

06Behind the Tent City, we could see Mount Everest emerging from the fast moving clouds.  Perhaps the time was too late, the environmental friendly shuttle bus between the Tent Village and the climber’s base camp was not running when we were there.  We followed other tourists to walk along the rocky path towards the mountain, and reach a stone plaque after 15 minute’s walk.

07The rewarding moment had finally arrived as the clouds began to thin out.  The tallest mountain on Earth was right in front of us.  At 8848m the summit of Mount Everest was still over 3600m above us, despite we had reached 5200m above sea level.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOur rewarding minutes ticked by as the sun began to set.  Everywhere was getting dark quickly except the snow-capped Everest that was tall enough to receive the day’s last bit of sunlight.

09At 8pm just before sunset, Mount Everest stood silently under the yellow spotlight of the setting sun.  Looking at the shear beauty of the snow-capped summit, recalling all the past expedition stories and absorbing the legendary aura and spiritual power of the Everest, it was truly magical.

10It was time for us to retreat into the tent and shook off the cold.  We had a simple meal of instant cup noodles and canned sardines.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAAt 9pm, the boy of the owner was already sleeping soundly in bed under thick comfortable blankets.




Sending postcards and getting a souvenir stamp onto our passports were the main reasons to come to the Isla Redonda Post Office at Bahia Ensenada. As this “last” post office in the world, even the postman (has been stationed at this post office for many years) has become a famous subject printed on postal stamps and postcards. Proudly representing the “end of world”, the postman was a cheerful figure who greeted us with a big smile and a big souvenir stamp in hand. The stamp is so big that it took up a full page of our passport. And guess what’s on the stamp… the forever penguins!


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Read more on Ushuaia in 2013 South America
Day 69.1 – Magellan Straight
Day 69.2 – Arrival, Ushuaia
Day 69.3 – Fuegian Grill, Ushuaia
Day 70.1 – Museo Maritimo, Ushuaia
Day 70.2 – Chiko Restaurant, Ushuaia
Day 70.3 – Beagle Channel & Isla H
Day 70.4 – Kalma Resto, Ushuaia
Day 71.1 – Pier, Ushuaia
Day 71.2 – Fuegian Trees, near Estancia Harberton
Day 71.3 – Penguins, Martillo Island
Day 71.4 – Estancia Harberton
Day 71.5 – Kaupe Restaurant, Ushuaia
Day 72.1 – Post Office, Isla Redonda, Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego
Day 72.2 – Senda Costera & Bahia Lapataia, Parque Nacional Tierra Del Fuego
Day 73 – Stranded in Ushuaia Airport

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought