ultramarinus – beyond the sea

Posts tagged “must see

DAY 24 (1 OF 3) – RAIN, PARATY, BRAZIL

The weather got worse over the night. It was rainy and chilly pretty much the entire day. We gave up the idea of taking any boat trip or going to the nearby beaches. Because of the Atlantic, Paraty could get rainy at times, especially during the summer. As a result of the rain, we had a relaxing day at our guesthouse to update our blog. I (Angela) also found time to do my first watercolour painting. We did, however, venture out to the historic centre for a seafood lunch.
ImageImageImageImageImage

* * *

Read other posts on Paraty, Brazil
Day 23.1 – Sea, Paraty
Day 23.2 – Town, Paraty
Day 23.3 – Night, Paraty
Day 24.1 – Rain, Paraty
Day 24.2 – Thai, Paraty
Day 24.3 – Reflection, Paraty

* * *

South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 23 (3 OF 3) – NIGHT, PARATY, BRAZIL

In the evening, the historic centre was not as lively as we thought it would be. Nevertheless, under atmospheric lighting, Paraty presented its colonial charm as if we were walking in history.
ImageDSC_8449DSC_8451DSC_8454DSC_8461DSC_8466

* * *

Read other posts on Paraty, Brazil
Day 23.1 – Sea, Paraty
Day 23.2 – Town, Paraty
Day 23.3 – Night, Paraty
Day 24.1 – Rain, Paraty
Day 24.2 – Thai, Paraty
Day 24.3 – Reflection, Paraty

* * *

South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 23 (2 OF 3) – TOWN, PARATY, BRAZIL

We walked leisurely in the pedestrian-only historic centre. Paved with large uneven stones, most streets in the old town were designed as a channel with its lowest point in the middle for drainage. We walked by a house at which its owner was painting the main doorframe in green, one of the several colours commonly found on doors, windows and shutters in Paraty, while the walls were mainly whitewashed.
We walked by Casa da Cultura (House of Culture) and saw some interesting figures wearing colourful masks standing on the balconies overlooking the street. Housed in a historical mansion, the Casa da Cultura serves as a small cultural hub in Paraty. We saw some displays of knitted art and photography. The big surprise came when we went to the upper level and found an exhibition of traditional paper masks and a school group just about to finish their mask-making class. The kids were having fun running around the room and putting on the masks they made. The mask display and the playful kids brought us a moment of brilliant colours in this rather greyish afternoon.
ImageImageImageDSC_8386
ImageImageImage

* * *

Read other posts on Paraty, Brazil
Day 23.1 – Sea, Paraty
Day 23.2 – Town, Paraty
Day 23.3 – Night, Paraty
Day 24.1 – Rain, Paraty
Day 24.2 – Thai, Paraty
Day 24.3 – Reflection, Paraty

* * *

South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 23 (1 OF 3) – SEA, PARATY, BRAZIL

On our way to Sao Paulo from Rio de Janeiro, we stopped by the seaside town of Paraty. Famous for its colonial buildings, pirates, beaches, and rainforests, Paraty was a significant colonial town in the 18th century as an export port for gold from the mines of Minas Gerais to Rio de Janeiro. A Gold Trail was established from the towns of Minas Gerais to Paraty to transport gold, supplies and slaves. In late 18th century, as the gold mines began to dry up, many cities in Minas Gerais such as Ouro Preto underwent a gradual decline, so as Paraty. Today Paraty contains one of the best-preserved colonial town centre in Brazil.
We came to Paraty for its beaches, colonial buildings, and its layback atmosphere. It was cool and cloudy when we arrived in Paraty. At the dock, several people were fishing while the boat owners were cleaning their colourful tourist boats. We took a stroll along Rio Pereque Acu to Praia do Pontal, a beach stretching out into Bahia de Paraty north of the historic town centre. The beach was quiet with only a few beachgoers chilling out at the seating area where barracas (stalls) were serving snacks, drinks and seafood.
Back in the old town, we walked passed a local restaurant near Igreja Santa Rita which had their catches-of-the-day displayed in front of the store. We decided to give it a try and had our first seafood meal in Paraty.
ImageImageImageImageImage

* * *

Previous Destination: Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, reading from post Day 20.1

Read other posts on Paraty, Brazil
Day 23.1 – Sea, Paraty
Day 23.2 – Town, Paraty
Day 23.3 – Night, Paraty
Day 24.1 – Rain, Paraty
Day 24.2 – Thai, Paraty
Day 24.3 – Reflection, Paraty

* * *

South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 22 (2 OF 2) – CRISTO REDENTOR, RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL

The vast bus network in Rio made travelling within the city quite convenient, despite of the occasional long waits and poor road traffic during rush hours.  After visting MAR in Centro, we took a bus from Avenue de Branco to Corcovado Mountain, where Cristo Redentor stands at its peak.  Being the most iconic image of Rio, Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) is on the itinerary for most Rio’s first time visitors.  Despite the grey sky and poor visibility, we decided to give it a go, not only for the statue itself, but also for the magnificent panoramic views of Rio de Janeiro.   Various ways of ascend were available, and we chose the traditional way of taking the funicular.  The uphill journey was pleasant as the funicular passed through the Atlantic rainforest of the Parque Nacional da Tijuca.  Being a great example of reforestation, the Parque Nacional da Tijuca is a special attraction on its own.  The rainforests in Rio were badly damaged due to coffee and sugarcane plantations.  Decades of reforestation effort turned the area of Corcovado Mountain and beyond back to a rainforest from mountain to ocean.
It was crowded at Cristo Redentor as we expected.  Tourists gathered in front of the iconic 38m-high statue, making all kind of funny poses to take photos.  Despite the grey sky, the panoramic views of Rio and its surroundings were breathtaking at 710m above the city.  The view extended from Leblon and Ipanema all the way to Centro and further north into the suburbs.  Almost all of Rio’s famous beaches and mountains were visible, including the Pao de Acucar.  Mountains and ocean, favelas and wealthy neighbourhoods, rainforests and skyscrapers, the marvelous city of Rio was truly a city of interesting contrasts.  We stayed on Corcovado until 6:30pm and took the funicular back down to the city.  The weather and lighting were far from ideal, but we were delighted for going up to Corcovado before our departure from Rio.

ImageImageImageImageImageImageImage

***

Read other posts on Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Day 20.1 – Ipanema
Day 20.2 – Urca
Day 20.3 – Pao de Acucar
Day 21.1 – Ipanema Beach
Day 21.2 – Real Gabinete Portugues de Leitura (Portuguese Reading Room)
Day 21.3 – Centro Cultural do Banco do Brasil
Day 21.4 – Lapa and Santa Teresa
Day 21.5 – Botafogo and Leblon
Day 22.1 – Museu de Arte do Rio
Day 22.2 – Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer)

Next Destination: Paraty, Brazil
Continuing on our journey from post Day 23.1

* * *

South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 22 (1 OF 2) – MUSEU DE ARTE DO RIO, RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL

This morning, we returned to Rio’s Centro (downtown) to visit Museu de Arte do Rio (MAR). Completed earlier this year, MAR is a new art museum in the city. We took the metro to Uruguaiana Station and walked along Av. Rio Branco to its northern end at Praca Maua. Praca Maua was a major port of Rio in early 20th century. Today, it is a large construction site where a new tunnel will pass through, and a new public square and museum will be located. Adjacent to Praca Maua, we walked by a narrow pedestrian street filled with vendors until we reached MAR at its terminus.
The MAR consisted of two structures, a newly erected 6-storey building and the renovated Palacete Dom João VI. A large wavy canopy connects the two at the top. Thanks to the warm climate of Rio, most of the ground level is open to the exterior, including the ticket office. We started our visit by taking the elevator to the 6th floor of the new building where the roof patio is located. At the roof patio, we could see the construction site of Santiago Calatrava’s Museu do Amanha (Museum of Tomorrow) out by the waterfront. From a display model, we also learnt about the upcoming urban renewal projects in the Port Maua area, including the proposed replacement of the elevated waterfront expressway with a major tunnel that connects the Centro with the bus terminal. The current Praca Maua will become a public square at the terminus of Av Rio Branco, flanked by MAR to its west and Museu do Amanha to its north.
From the 6th level we walked down one level via a spiral staircase. A long bridge on the 5th level led us to the former Palacete Dom João VI, where most of the exhibitions were situated. As we descended from level to level, the exhibits ranged from a permanent display of the history of Rio through artefacts, photography and paintings, multi-media artworks that reflect current issues of the city, to theatrical art that engaged visitors’ attention through actions and speeches.
Visiting the MAR was an interesting bonus to our experience of Rio, as we were keen to see the city’s newest architectural additions prior to the World Cup 2014 and Olympus Games 2016. While Calatrava’s Museu do Amanha and Diller Scofidio + Renfro’s Museu da Imagem e do Som (Museum of Image and Sound) were still under construction, we were delighted to see MAR at our last day in Rio.
ImageImageImageImage

***

Read other posts on Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Day 20.1 – Ipanema
Day 20.2 – Urca
Day 20.3 – Pao de Acucar
Day 21.1 – Ipanema Beach
Day 21.2 – Real Gabinete Portugues de Leitura (Portuguese Reading Room)
Day 21.3 – Centro Cultural do Banco do Brasil
Day 21.4 – Lapa and Santa Teresa
Day 21.5 – Botafogo and Leblon
Day 22.1 – Museu de Arte do Rio
Day 22.2 – Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer)

* * *

South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 21 (5 OF 5) – BOTAFOGO AND LEBLON, RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL

After Santa Teresa, we took the metro to Botafogo.  We walked out to Praia do Botagofo (Botafogo Beach), which offered a good view of Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf Mountain), especially during sunset when the golden sunlight shone on the iconic mountain.
We then took a bus to Leblon.  In contrast to the bohemian and sometimes seedy Lapa and Santa Teresa, Leblon (and the adjacent Ipanema), as the most affluent neighbourhood in Rio, seemed to us like belong to an entirely different city, despite the existence of favelas on nearby hills.  At dusk, we stopped by the peaceful Praia de Leblon (Leblon Beach), which shares the same Atlantic waterfront with Praia de Ipanema (Ipanema Beach).

DSC_8059
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERADSC_8078Praia do Botafogo (above 3 images)

DSC_8124
DSC_8121Praia de Leblon (above 2 images)

***

Read other posts on Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Day 20.1 – Ipanema
Day 20.2 – Urca
Day 20.3 – Pao de Acucar
Day 21.1 – Ipanema Beach
Day 21.2 – Real Gabinete Portugues de Leitura (Portuguese Reading Room)
Day 21.3 – Centro Cultural do Banco do Brasil
Day 21.4 – Lapa and Santa Teresa
Day 21.5 – Botafogo and Leblon
Day 22.1 – Museu de Arte do Rio
Day 22.2 – Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer)

* * *

South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought