After Ueno Park, we still have time to visit another place before our 18:30 dinner reservation back in Shibuya. West from Ueno, we took the metro to the residential neighborhood of Sekiguchi in Bunkyo District. We stepped into the peaceful residential streets of Sekiguchi, and used Google Map to find our way to St. Mary’s Cathedral, the seat of Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Tokyo. Apart from its religious significance, the cathedral building is also a masterpiece of modernist architecture designed by renowned Japanese architect Kenzo Tange (丹下健三). The cathedral was completed in 1964, about the same time as Kenzo Tange’s Yoyogi National Gymnasium for the 1964 Olympics.
The peaceful residential streets of Sekiguchi led us toward’s St. Mary’s Cathedral.
Cladded with stainless steel, Kenzo Tange’s St. Mary’s Cathedral replaces its Gothic and wooden predecessor that was destroyed during the Second World War.
Kenzo Tange’s version of the cathedral was much simpler than a traditional Gothic church. The essence of the building is expressed through the combination of geometry, lines, shades, and reflections.
On a plan in the form of a cross, Kenzo Tange extruded eight hyperbolic parabolas upwards to form this unique piece of architecture.
When seen from above, the cathedral and its skylights would appear exactly in the shape of the cross.
Reaching 61.68m, the bell tower is separated from the main church building.
The interior of St. Mary’s Cathedral should be a huge surprise for any first time visitors. The concrete structural shell is fully exposed, providing a minimalist interior where light and shades play the role to create a spiritual atmosphere.
Benches inside St. Mary’s Cathedral face toward the main altar, behind which stands the tall window extending all the way to the ceiling, then runs across the ceiling to the opposite end of the building.
The spiral stair behind the seating is a neat feature that goes up the largest organ in Japan.
The large organ was manufactured by Italian company Mascioni. We were lucky to experience its beautiful sound when staff were practicing the organ when we were there.
After a fantastic architectural treat at St. Mary’s Cathedral, we made a short walk in the neighborhood to Zoshigaya Metro Station (雑司が谷駅) for the Fukutoshin Metro back to Shibuya.
On our way, we passed through the peaceful residential neighborhood of Mejirodai (目白台).
The afternoon sunlight of the early summer day was brilliant. The half-hour walk was pleasant and we hardly saw other tourists along the way.
Completed in 1959, the National Museum of Western Art is the only building in the Far East designed by modernist architectural maestro Le Corbusier. In 2016, the museum building has been inscribed in UNESCO’s World Heritage along with 16 other Le Corbusier’s works such as Villa Savoye, Unite d’habitation Marseille, Notre-Dame-Haut de Ronchamp, Chandigarh Capitol Complex, etc. We came for the modernist architecture, although many paintings and sculptures on display by world renowned artists were quite interesting too.
Precast concrete panels were used as the main cladding material for the museum.
We were greeted at the front entrance by Émile-Antoine Bourdelle’s Hercules the archer. Bourdelle was an influential French sculptor in late 19th and early 20th century.
The Thinker at Tokyo National Museum of Western Art was made after the death of Auguste Rodin.
The lobby atrium of the museum was a pleasant surprise. The high volume of the space and the trunk-like columns drew our attention to the unique skylight above.
A skylight consisted of multiple triangles provides an interesting design feature to the space, and also magnificent indirect lighting.
An architectural model provides a sectional view of the atrium and shows the exterior form of the skylight feature.
At one side of the atrium, a zigzag ramp led all visitors to the main exhibition on the upper level.
On the upper deck, we could get a clear view of the lobby atrium with its statues.
Again, the concept of bringing indirect sunlight into the interior was the clear intent from Le Corbusier. The glazing bulkhead above the paintings provided the main source of ambient light.
The collection of the museum ranges from Renaissance to the modern ages.
The glazing feature brings in indirect sunlight, but it also creates a long bulkhead along one side of the exhibition hall.
Some of the paintings and statues were interesting, but our focus was always on the architecture itself.
At the museum courtyard, we could see the various facade cladding materials used at different periods of expansion.
At the forecourt, another zigzag ramp supposedly leads visitors to the lower courtyard. Now the entire area, including the exterior ramp, is closed off.
After the National Museum of Western Art, we thought we had enough dosage of art and history for the day. We were quite tired due to the red-eye flight. We decided to check out another piece of architectural gem in Tokyo, Kenzo Tange’s St. Mary’s Cathedral in Sekiguchi.
Along the central axis of the Pilot Plan, Lucio Costa and Oscar Niemeyer located the most significant buildings of the Brazilian capital on the Eixo Monumental (Axis of Monuments). All the iconic buildings of Brasilia were intended to be seen as monumental objects rising on vast open land. Almost all of them were designed by Oscar Niemeyer. We spent most of the day checking out the buildings in the eastern section of the axis, including the following buildings west to east: Teatro Nacional (National Theatre), Biblioteca Nacional (National Library), Museu Nacional (National Museum), Catedral Metropolitana (Cathedral), Palacio do Itamaraty (Itamaraty Palace), Palacio da Justica (Palace of Justice), Congresso Nacional (National Congress), Praca dos Tres Poderes (Plaza of Three Towers), Palacio do Planalto (Planalto Palace), Panteão da Pátria Tancredo Neves (Pantheon).
Teatro Nacional (National Theatre)
Biblioteca Nacional (National Library)
Museu Nacional (National Museum)
Catedral Metropolitana (Cathedral)
Palacio do Itamaraty (Itamaraty Palace)
Congresso Nacional (National Congress)
Praca dos Tres Poderes (Plaza of Three Towers)
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Read more on Brasilia, Brazil
Day 13.2 – First Impression, Brasilia
Day 14.1 – Pilot Plan, Brasilia
Day 14.2 – Eixo, Monumental, Brasilia
Day 14.3 – Catedral Metropolitana, Brasilia
Day 14.4 – Palacio Itamaraty, Brasilia
Day 14.5 – Congresso Nacional, Brasilia
Day 15.1 – Santuario Dom Bosco, Brasilia
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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought