Kenninji | Blue Lapis Road

DAY 2 (4/6): ○△□ and Chouontei Garden and Ceiling of Twin Dragons, KENNINJI TEMPLE (建仁寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.04

Claimed to be the oldest Zen Buddhist temple in Kyoto, Kenninji Temple (建仁寺) is a Buddhist temple famous for its zen gardens and traditional paintings in Gion (祇園). Kenninji was founded in 1202 by Buddhist priest Eisai/Yousai (明菴栄西). Two times Yousai went to China and brought back with him Zen scriptures and tea seeds, from which Zen Buddhism and the practice of green tea drinking flourished in Japan ever since. As a result, Yousai was also considered to be the founder of the tea ceremony in Japan. Since the 14th century, Kenninji was considered one of the five most important Zen Buddhist temples in Kyoto, known as the Gozan (五山十刹制度) or the Five Mountain System. Today, Kenninji stands at third in this ranking system, behind Tenryuji (天龍寺) and Shokokuji (相国寺), and ahead of Tofukuji (東福寺) and Manjuji (万寿寺). On top of this five temples is Nanzenji, which serves as the leading Zen Buddhist temple in today’s Kyoto.

Today, with its meditation gardens, ancient teahouse, and timber halls, Kenninji serves as a tranquil oasis in the busy and dense neighborhood of Gion. We entered the Kenninji compound from its North Gate at Hanamikoji Dori. Once inside, we took off our shoes and paid our admission at Hojo (方丈). Inside Hojo, one of the most popular art work on display was “Fujin and Raijin”, a pair of two-folded screen depicting the Wind and Thunder Gods by Tawaraya Sotatsu (俵屋宗達) from the early 17 century. The dry landscape garden in front of Hojo was also quite impressive, so as the traditional paintings on the sliding doors of the building, including the Cloud Dragon (雲龍図) and Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove (竹林七賢図). But for us, the most amazing artwork at Kenninji was Twin Dragons (双龍図), a 11.4m x 15.7m ceiling mural by Koizumi Junsaku in the Hatto (法堂), or Dharma Hall to celebrate the 800-year anniversary of the temple. Completed in 2002, it took Koizumi Junsaku two years to finish this enormous ceiling painting in the gymnasium of an elementary school in Hokkaido.

Also worth noting was the Toyobo Tea-house, a two mat tea room dated back to the 16th century. We peeked through an opening into the tea-house and saw a simple interior with tatami flooring and a semi-open partition supported by a natural wooden branch as column. Before leaving, we spent a considerable period of time at Choontei Garden (潮音庭), a beautifully constructed zen garden surrounded by wooden verandas. At Choontei, there were three stones at the centre of the courtyard, representing Buddha and two Zen monks. Choontei was also the perfect courtyard to sit on the veranda and admire the autumn maples. On our way out, we passed by another small courtyard which named as ○△□. The serene garden introduces landscape components such as a tree in circular planter or a square area of gravel as visual representations of ○△□, which symbolized water, fire and earth. The spiritual experience of the gardens, the lovely visual palette of the dark timber, green moss and crimson maples, and the refreshing breeze and warm sunlight enabled us to enjoy a moment of meditation. Leaving this tranquil dimension, we would meander through Gion, cross the picturesque Kamo River, and enter the busy streets of Downtown Kyoto.

Entering the Hojo (方丈) Hall, which was built in 1599.

The first thing of the visit was to take off our shoes.

Centuries-old timber structure of the Hojo (方丈) Hall.

“Fujin and Raijin”or the Wind and Thunder God, is the most popular artworks in Kenninji Temple.

The semi open interior space of Hojo (方丈) allows sunlight to enter the building from different directions.

Visitors sitting by the veranda of Hojo to admire the dry landscape garden.

The Cloud Dragon screen paintings at the Hojo were by 16th century artist Kaiho Yusho.

The elegant prayer hall of Hojo with the painting of Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove (竹林七賢図) on the sliding screens.

Zen Garden or the dry landscape garden at Hojo.

Visitors relaxed themselves at the veranda in front of the Zen Garden.

We saw quite a number of young women dressed traditional kimono dress in several sights of Kyoto, including Kenninji.

The enormous ceiling mural of Twin Dragons (双龍図) in the Hatto (法堂) or the Dharma Hall.

Twin Dragons over the main altar at Hatto.

A stone tsukubai (蹲踞) or stone waterbasin in the tea house garden of Kenninji.

The minimalist Toyobo Tea-house was built in 1587.

A path of stone pavers connected a prayer pavilion with the building’s veranda.

Chouontei Garden (潮音庭) as viewed from the inside.

Awesome autumn colours at Chouontei Garden (潮音庭).

Deep sense of autumn at Chouontei Garden (潮音庭).

Overview of Chouontei Garden (潮音庭), with the San-zon seki (the three stones that represent Buddha and two Zen monks.

The ○△□ Garden (○△□乃庭) was a simple Zen garden.

The ○△□ symbolizes water, fire and earth.

Leaving Kenninji behind, we were ready to venture into Downtown Kyoto to experience the other side of the ancient city.

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January 22, 2017 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kyoto and Nara 2016, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: abbot, Architecture, autumn, ○△□, Buddhism, Buddhist, ceiling, courtyard, 竹林七賢図, dragon, Eisai, 雲龍図, fall, foliage, Fujin, Fujin and Raijin, garden, Gion, gozan, Higashiyama, house, Japan, Kenninji, Koizumi Junsaku, Kyoto, maples, Raijin, Rinzai, Tawaraya Sotatsu, tea, Temple, timber, zen, 明菴栄西, 五山十刹制度, 京都, 潮音庭, 俵屋宗達 | Leave a comment

DAY 2 (3/6): KIYOMIZU DERA to KENNINJI, Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.04

Leaving Kiyomizu-dera behind, we walked down Matsubara Dori (松原通) to the intersection of Gojo-zaka (五条坂), where we were drawn by a small shop selling different senbei (煎餅), or Japanese rice crackers snacks. The shop Terakoya Honpo (寺子屋本舗) is a well known chain store of senbei in Japan. We couldn’t resist but picked up a piece of delicious senbei with seaweed spices. Turning into Sannen-zaka (三年坂), we found our way back to Yasaka Dori (八坂通), the historical alleyway dominated by the iconic Yasaka-no-to Pagoda of Hokanji Temple (法観寺八坂の塔). A number of locals and tourists dressed in traditional kimonos were posing for photos in front of the pagoda. A strong coffee aroma led us to a few shops down from the pagoda. The sleek design of curved glazing and minimal decor of %Arabica Coffee provided a pleasant contrast to the historical atmosphere of Higashiyama. We went in, ordered two cups of hand drip coffee, and sat down at the communal table. A female staff took our order and prepared the coffee at the counter. After about ten minutes, our magnificent morning coffee were ready, and that was probably one of the best coffees we ever had.

Just round the street corner from %Arabica along Higashioji Dori (東大路通), we arrived at a alleyway leading to the Shinto shrine Yasui Konpiragu (安井金比羅宮). Nothing monumental or extravagant, the low profile shrine in a residential neighborhood was surprisingly popular with local worshipers due to the specialized wishes of “sever bad relationships and established good relationships (悪縁を切り良縁を結ぶ). In the shrine complex, the centre piece “Power Stone Monument” is a 3m x 1.5m tall rock with an oval hole in the middle. The monument is fully covered with white paper charms. When we were there, there was a long queue of visitors (mostly young women) waiting for their turns to crawl through the oval hole in a ritual of making wishes related to relationships. The main shrine building stood adjacent to the “Power Stone Monument”. In front of the main shrine, racks fully loaded with ema (絵馬) wooden plaques and paper charms written with wishes captured our attention. Judging from the amount of ema, Yasui Konpiragu should be considered a very popular Shinto shrine. We exited the shrine complex through a side torii gateway into a residential lane, and soon found ourselves just steps away from the perimeter wall of Kenninji Temple (建仁寺). Before entering this oldest Zen temple in Kyoto, we stopped by a soba restaurant next to the temple entrance for a quick lunch.

Outside of Kiyomizu-dera, visitors including us began to walk down Matsubara Dori (松原通) towards the city.

Senbei, Japanese rice crackers, with seaweed spices ordered from Terakoya Honpo (寺子屋本舗), a chain snack shop.

On Yasaka Dori (八坂通), there were quite people dressed in traditional kimono and posed for photos.

A grapefruit tree below the Yasaka-no-to Pagoda of Hokanji Temple (法観寺八坂の塔).

Near Yasaka-no-to Pagoda, we passed by Yasaka Koshindo (八坂庚申堂), a small Koshin (庚申) temple.

Walking down Yasaka Dori looking for %Arabica Coffee. Whenever we turned around the Yasaka-no-to Pagoda just dominated the vista.

Three customers sat on a bench in front of %Arabica Coffee Shop.

Front counter of %Arabica Coffee Shop in Higashiyama.

Coffee beans stored behind glass cabinets against the long wall in the coffee shop.

Coffee roasting machine at the back of the shop.

Two cups of Hand drip coffee!

A long queue for the opportunity to crawl through the hole of “Power Stone Monument” at Yasui Konpiragu (安井金比羅宮).

A young woman crawling through the “Power Stone Monument”.

A young woman worshiping at the main shrine.

A rack fully filled with ema (絵馬) wooden plaques

The Side Entrance and torii gate of Yasui Konpiragu (安井金比羅宮).

soba restaurant.

Interior of the soba restaurant.

Soba with tempura

Soba with fresh tofu skin in thick broth

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January 18, 2017 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kyoto and Nara 2016, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: Arabica, cafe, coffee, 絵馬, ema, food, Higashiyama, Hokanji, Japan, Kenninji, Kiyomizu dera, Kyoto, noodles, soba, Terakoya, torii, Yasaka, Yasaka Dori, Yasui Konpiragu, zen, 八坂の塔, 八坂通, 安井金比羅宮, 寺子屋本舗, 建仁寺, 東山, 法観寺, 京都 | Leave a comment

OUR FIRST KYOTO STORY, Japan

In Kyoto, we saw skies of blue and clouds of white, and foliage of crimson as if sea of dancing flames. The bright blessed days, the dark sacred nights, the crystal reflections in the water and the festive scent in the air of peaceful valleys and the thousand-year capital. After our five-day visit, we think to ourselves what a wonderful place Kyoto truly is. The moment we left the ancient capital we were already dreaming of our return.
In early December, we decided to take a 5-day escape from our hustle and bustle life in Hong Kong. We picked Japan’s Kyoto, the city where we purposely avoided during our previous Kansai visit because back then we couldn’t find adequate time for a decent introduction to this crown jewel of Japan. This time around at the twilight of autumn, we destined to indulge ourselves for a feast of the ancient capital, at which 5-days of fantastic moments inspired us once again to feel the joy and beauty of traveling. In the next while we will share with you our delightful Kyoto and Nara experience.

Fantastic 5 Days: Getting up early each morning, 5 autumn days with pleasant weather allowed us to visit a number of temples and shrines in Kyoto and Nara, plus incredible cafes, cozy restaurants, interesting design shops, living market, idyllic old neighborhoods, and much more.

Autumn Foliage: Nature’s most vivid instant beyond the eaves of Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines.

Festivity: Celebrations of the season with illuminations, music and food.

Colours of the Night: Luminosity and hues of Kyoto’s autumn night.

Zen Gardens: Moments of redemption from the bustling noises of daily life.

Buddhist Architecture: Ancient timber structures revealing a millennium of architectural heritage and cultural preservation.

Eternal Beauty: Enthralled by the eternal beauty of the thousand-year ancient capital.

Tranquil Morning Strolls: Placid old neighborhoods at the first light of the day.

Sincere Cuisine: Unpretentious regional sake and cuisines with fresh local ingredients.

Contemporary Design: Architecture, industrial designs and handcrafts that celebrate the spirit of the present.

Mystical World of Spirits and Nature: Entering the spiritual woods and legendary mountains of Shintoism.

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December 23, 2016 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kyoto and Nara 2016, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: autumn, Buddhism, foliage, Fushimi Inari Taisha, illumination, Japan, Japanese, Kenninji, Kinkakuji, Kiyomizu dera, Kyoto, Kyoto Design House, Nara, sake, Shintoism, Todaiji | Leave a comment

Blue Lapis Road ultramarinus – beyond the sea

Posts tagged “Kenninji”

DAY 2 (4/6): ○△□ and Chouontei Garden and Ceiling of Twin Dragons, KENNINJI TEMPLE (建仁寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.04

DAY 2 (3/6): KIYOMIZU DERA to KENNINJI, Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.04

OUR FIRST KYOTO STORY, Japan