Kengo Kuma | Blue Lapis Road

DAY 4 (3/3): KURAMAE (蔵前), LA KAGU & KAGURAZAKA (神楽坂), Tokyo, Japan, 2017.06.17

Across Sumida River from Ryogoku and south of touristy Asakusa lies the low key Kuramae (蔵前), a hub for young artists and craftsmen in Tokyo. After visiting two interesting museums in Sumida, we opted for a moment of relaxation just a stone throw away at Kuramae. Like many up and coming neighborhoods, Kuramae contains a rather leisure atmosphere. Without the tourist crowds that we would normally see in other more popular areas of Tokyo, there were still a considerable amount of local visitors in the area. Queues were lined up in front of some of the most popular shops such as Kakimori, the wonderful shop of handmade stationery, fountain pens and anything related to writing. We started off at Camera, a cosy little cafe selling good coffee, snacks, and handmade leather accessories.

We started our brief Kuramae visit at Camera cafe.

We sat by the long counter with coffee and snacks. There were a few racks and shelves of leather accessories on display behind us.

Maito offers a wide range of clothes and accessories made with dyes extracted from nature, such as flowers and tree bark.

The most popular shop in Kuramae we encountered was undoubtedly Kakimori stationery shop. Visitors lined up outside the shop waiting for their turn to put together a custom made notebook with self-selected paper, cover, ribbon, etc.

Inside Kakimori, other visitors were busy checking out the fountain pens, ink, and other writing accessories.

Dandelion Chocolate was another highly popular bean-to-bar chocolate factory originated from San Francisco.

We also spent some time at Koncept, a trendy shop with cool merchandises from all over Japan.

After Kuramae, we took the metro to visit another interesting trendy fashion and design store, the La Kagu. A grand wooden staircase provided a welcoming gesture for all pedestrians and visitors.

Converted from a 1965 warehouse of a publishing company by renowned architect Kengo Kuma (隈研吾), La Kagu immediately became a retail landmark in at Kagurazaka (神楽坂).

La Kagu is consisted of different lifestyle zones: food, clothing, shelter and knowledge.

After La Kagu, we walked along the high street of Kagurazaka (神楽坂). Kagurazaka (神楽坂) is a traditional Japanese neighborhood with a French twist, thanks to the considerable number of French expats living in the area.

Cafes, restaurants, bakeries and boutiques line up the high street of Kagurazaka (神楽坂).

In a side street, we stopped by a ramen store for dinner.

We ordered our ramen from the machine outside.

The friendly staff then prepared our bowls right in front of us.

No complain could be made by ending the day with a bowl of delicious ramen in a local neighborhood of Tokyo.

September 7, 2017 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Tokyo 2017, Tokyo | Tags: Camera, 神楽坂, Dandelion, 蔵前, 隈研吾, Japan, Kagurazaka, Kakimori, Kengo Kuma, Koncept, Kuramae, La Kagu, Maito, ramen, shopping, Tokyo | Leave a comment

DAY 3 (6/6): ASAKUSA AT NIGHT (浅草), Tokyo (東京), Japan, 2017.06.16

We both felt asleep on the train back to Tokyo. The normally popular tourist district of Asakusa (浅草) was largely deserted by the time we walked out Asakusa Station at around 9pm. We didn’t want to return to our hotel yet. We decided to wander around Asakusa, from the world famous Kaminarimon (雷門) of Sensoji (金龍山浅草寺) to the inner streets of dining, shopping and entertainment district of Rokku. Most shops were closed except for some restaurants and street eateries.

The buildings and streetscape around Tobu Asakusa Station reveal the former glory of Asakusa when the district was a foremost area in Tokyo.

Tokyo Skytree and Philippe Starck’s Asahi Beer Hall stood out in the skyline beyond.

Kengo Kuma’s Asakusa Culture and Tourist Centre (淺草文化中心) took on a different appearance under the perfect illumination.

Surrounded by scaffolding, the Kaminarimon (雷門) of Sensoji (金龍山浅草寺) found a moment of peace with the absence of tourists.

The 200m Nakamise (仲見世) Shopping Street closed for the night. Security guards were checking the shopping streets to ensure no visitor stayed behind.

From Nakamise (仲見世), we entered a side street (雷門柳小路) into the grid network of small streets of restaurants, cafes, and bars.

Orange Street (オレンジ通り), a street famous for its orange paint lies at the centre of the dining and entertainment area of Asakusa.

The Rokku area of Asakusa was once the biggest entertainment district in Japan before WWII. During the Edo Period (1603-1867), Asakusa lies outside the city wall and was a red light and theatre district. During the prewar years of the 20th century, theatres and cinemas dominated the Rokku area. Much of Asakusa was destroyed during the war. Today, the entertainment district of Asakusa was only a shadow of its past.

Some restaurants in the area still maintains the atmosphere of the prewar days.

In contrast to the spirituality and history of Sensoji Temple just a few blocks away, the Rox Dome is a popular indoor batting stadium.

The atmospheric Dempoin Dori (傳法院通) offers a glimpse of the former theatre and entertainment district.

Not many pedestrians were around at Dempoin Dori. However some of the restaurants were still open. The traditional shopfronts reminded visitors the appearance of the lively high street during the prewar years.

Despite its decline in the postwar years, Asakusa remains an interesting place to stroll around and get a feel of Tokyo’s history and its vibrant dining scenes.

Today, the Rokku area is still a focus of dining and entertainment experience, with outdoor eateries here and there near the junction of Don Quijote Department Store.

Most shops were closed for the night, but the street-side eateries were still quite lively when we were there.

The junction in front of Don Quijote Department Store was brightly lit up by neon lights of theatres and shops.

Apart from the street eateries and traditional shops, there are also covered arcades in the area providing another alternative shopping experience.

After strolling for an hour or so, we headed back to Asakusa Station and took the metro back to Shibuya. Passing by the narrow alleyways near the station, the Tokyo Skytree across Sumida River could be clearly seen at the street end, revealing a new chapter of shopping and entertainment just a stone throw away from Asakusa.

August 27, 2017 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Tokyo 2017, Tokyo | Tags: Architecture, Asakusa, オレンジ通り, Dempoin Dori, district, entertainment, 雷門柳小路, food, Japan, Kengo Kuma, night, Philippe Starck, Rokku, Skytree, Tokyo, yokocho, 傳法院通, 東京, 浅草, 淺草, 淺草文化中心, 仲見世 | Leave a comment

SENSOJI (浅草寺) & SKYTREE, Tokyo (東京), Japan

On the last day in Tokyo, we decided to pay a visit to Tokyo’s oldest and most popular Buddhist temple, the Sensoji (金龍山浅草寺) and Kengo Kuma (隈研吾)’s Asakusa Culture and Tourism Center right across the street from the iconic Kaminarimon (雷門). Sensoji was definitely the busiest attraction we visited in Tokyo. Everywhere in the temple ground was filled with people, from the souvenir shop lined Nakamise Dori (仲見世通り) to the Kannondo Main Hall.

After the temple and Asakusa Culture and Tourism Center, we had a little bit of time left before heading to the airport. We took the metro to check out the nearby Skytree, the tallest structure in Japan. We didn’t go up to the observation deck of the tower, but instead wandered around at the shopping area and the outdoor terrace, where a group of tourists crowded in a small Calbee shop picking the colourful packs of special edition potato chips.

Soon enough, we returned to Shinjuku and boarded an Narita Express to the airport.

Designed by Kengo Kuma (隈研吾), the eight storey Asakusa Culture and Tourism Center is an architectural gem across the street from the Sensoji. With exhibition and activity spaces stacked vertically, each floor of the building has a distinct function.

The ground floor is dedicated to an introduction of the district of Asakusa.

Glass railing and exposed timber joists wrap around a central atrium.

On the roof terrace of Asakusa Culture and Tourism Center, there are information signage on the railing associated with the view.

At two metro stops to the east, the 634m Tokyo Skytree (東京スカイツリー) stands out at the background, while the wavy golden feature of the Asahi Beer Hall dominates the foreground. Designed by famous designer Philippe Starck, the golden feature is meant to represent the burning heart of Asahi beer.

To the north, the view from Asakusa Culture and Tourism Center is dominated by the Nakamise Dori (仲見世通り), the procession route of Sensoji.

Across the street, the iconic Kaminarimon (雷門) or “Thunder Gate” marks the start of Nakamise Dori (仲見世通り).

Standing 11.7m tal, with its enormous lantern and statues at both sides, Kaminarimon (雷門) is very popular with tourists and locals.

Lined with souvenir and snack stores at both sides, the 250m Nakamise Dori (仲見世通り) is always packed with visitors.

The Hozōmon (宝蔵門) of Sensō-ji (金龍山浅草寺) features three large lanterns, with the 3.75m tall chochin (提灯) hang in the middle.

A cute white akita dog rests at the courtyard in front of Hozōmon (宝蔵門).

The prominent Tokyo Skytree (東京スカイツリー) can be seen from Sensoji.

Many visitors would gather close to the big incense burner in the central courtyard and cover themselves with the smoke, due to a traditional belief that the smoke can improve their thinking and make them smarter.

The entrance of the Kannondo Main Hall is also decorated with a huge red lantern.

With 30 million of visitors per year, the Sensō-ji (金龍山浅草寺) is one of the most visited religious site in the world.

Traditional lanterns on the pavement waiting to be hung.

The five-storey pagoda is also another main feature at Sensō-ji (金龍山浅草寺).

At the main ground of Sensō-ji (金龍山浅草寺), there are a row of food vendors selling all kinds of Japanese snacks.

Near Sensō-ji, the famous Azumabashi (吾妻橋) is a popular spot to photograph the Tokyo Skytree (東京スカイツリー) and Asahi Beer Hall.

At the base of Tokyo Skytree (東京スカイツリー), a series of outdoor terraces provide a pleasant approach to the tower.

Designed by Nikken Sekkei, the 634m Tokyo Skytree (東京スカイツリー) is the second tallest structure in the world just behind Burj Khalifa (830m).

June 1, 2017 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Tokyo 2016, Tokyo | Tags: architect, Architecture, Asakusa, Buddhism, design, 金龍山, 隈研吾, 雷門, Kaminarimon, Kengo Kuma, Nakamise, Nikken Sekkei, Sensoji, Skytree, Tokyo, 東京スカイツリー, 浅草, 浅草寺, 仲見世通り | Leave a comment

DAY 2 (5/6): SFERA BUILDING (スフェラ・ビル), SHIRKAWA GION (祇園白川), KAMO RIVER (鴨川) & DOWNTOWN, Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.04

Weather forecast predicted a rainy afternoon. We planned to spend the rest of the day in Downtown Kyoto on the other side of Kamo River (鴨川). Before crossing the river, we went to check out Sfera Building, a three storey modern architecture housing design, craft, art, and cuisine all under one roof. Unlike the timber houses in much of Gion (祇園), Swedish architect Claesson Koivisto Rune used titanium panels with perforated leaf patterns as cladding for Sfera Building. These perforated panels echo the sunscreens in traditional Japanese houses made of wood, bamboo and rice paper. In Sfera, there were fine furniture and housewares on display, some were made by local craftsmen and artists. We explored all floors of the building, and exited through its back door on Yamato Oji Dori. Just a block south we came to the picturesque Shirakawa Minami Dori (白川南通) at Shirakawa Gion (祇園白川), where the clear Shirakawa Canal passed in front of a row of well-preserved machiya houses (町家). Many of these old houses were accessible via bridges. We entered Pass the Baton, a trendy lifestyle shop that transformed a 120 year timber machiya house into a hub for the young generation. A number of the locals were dressed in traditional kimonos, matching perfectly well with the historical ambience of the machiya houses.

We crossed the Kamo River (鴨川) via Shijo Bridge, which continued as Shijo Dori into the heart of Downtown Kyoto. In summer, the banks of Kamo River is packed with dining patios and music performers. It was too cold in early December for these outdoor activities to take place. Nevertheless, the pleasant riverbanks were occupied with all kinds of people. A few waterbirds were walking in shallow water hunting for fish. On the bank, a group of teenage girls in colourful kimonos were taking selfies. An angler walked to the middle of the river and released his hook with his rod. We watched him for a few minutes, and suddenly he pulled his rod and acted like caught something on his hook. All eyes along the banks, including ours from the bridge, were on the angler. He didn’t disappoint us and managed to catch a fish that was at least two feet long.

As we walked west along the busy Shijo Dori (四条通) into the city, it soon began to rain. We went into Fujii Daimaru (藤井大丸), one of the many department stores on Shijo Dori. Despite smallest in size, with its latest fashion selections, Fujii Daimaru is popular with young shoppers. We walked along Shijo Dori as far as the intersection of Karasuma Dori (烏丸通), reaching a shopping centre called Cocon Karasuma (古今烏丸), which was a renovation work designed by architect Kengo Kuma (隈研吾) back in 2004. Kengo Kuma superimposes a 21st century glass facade laminated with a film of woodcut block patterns of clouds common in the Edo Period onto the original building elevation dated back to 1938. The sky was getting dark and we decided to grab a quick bite. Just before all vendor shutters were down, we entered Nishiki Market (錦市場), a famous covered market street selling all kinds of snacks from sushi to Japanese pickles. We picked up some tofu doughnuts at Konnamonja, and some local jumbo chestnuts before heading back to our hotel for a brief break prior to our dinner reservation at Yakitori Hitomi (焼創彩鳥家人見).

The titanium screen with leaf patterns of Sfera Building by Swedish architectural practice Claesson Koivisto Rune.

The design display on the top floor of Sfera Building.

The sleek bench at the back entrance at Sfera.

Back facade of Sfera Building at Yamato Oji Don.

The tranquil Shirakawa Canal at Gion (祇園白川)

Young women in traditional kimonos at Shirakawa Gion (祇園白川)

Couple in traditional clothings taking photos Shirakawa Gion (祇園白川)

A touch of heritage in the interior design at Pass the Baton, Shirakawa Gion (祇園白川)

Kamo River (鴨川) is a popular public space in Kyoto.

Women in kimonos taking pictures of themselves at Kamo River (鴨川).

The iconic Tohka-Saikan (東華菜館) Chinese restaurant building by the bank of Kamo River (鴨川).

An angler struggling with his catch at Kamo River (鴨川).

Our first encounter with Kamo River (鴨川) was simple and pleasant.

A man playing a three-string Shamisen (三味線) with his bachi, a Japanese plectrum.

Erizen Honten (ゑり善本店), a traditional clothing shop with a contemporary facade on Shijo.

Cocon Karasuma, an urban shopping centre designed by architect Kengo Kuma.

An atrium of Cocon Karasuma with a special pop up store of sake from Fushimi.

Covered retail street in Downtown Kyoto.

Soy vendor Konnamonja with their famous tofu doughnuts at Nishiki.

Tofu doughnuts from Konnamonja at Nishiki Market.

Local chestnut from Nishiki Market.

***

January 28, 2017 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kyoto and Nara 2016, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: Architecture, ゑり善本店, bachi, Claesson Koivisto Rune, Cocon Karasuma, 烏丸, 烏丸通, 町家, 白川, 白川南通, 祇園, design, Erizen Honten, 錦市場, 藤井大丸, 隈研吾, 鴨川, Gion, Japan, Kamo, Karasuma, Kengo Kuma, Konnamonja, Kyoto, machiya, market, Nishiki, plectrum, Sfera, shamisen, Shijo, Shirakawa, Shirakawa Minami Dori, 古今烏丸, 三味線 | Leave a comment

FOLK ART MUSEUM, Xiangshan Campus (象山中心校區), China Academy of Art (中國美術學院), Hangzhou, China

Before we left the Xiangshan campus, we dropped by the new Folk Art Museum. Designed by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, the Folk Art Museum is the latest addition to the campus. Similar to Wang Shu, Kengo Kuma’s work has long been considered as a contemporary representation of the essence of traditional architecture. Last year when we were In Tokyo, we visited Kengo Kuma’s Suntory Museum of Art and Nezu Museum, and immediately fell in love with Kengo Kuma’s clever interplay of light and shadow, magnificent treatment of transitional spaces between interior and exterior, poetic arrangement of circulation spaces and contemporary interpretation of traditional Japanese architecture.

The Folk Art Museum at Xiangshan sits against a hill like a series of overlapping parallelograms. Aligned with Kengo Kuma’s principle “to recover the place”, the spirit of the sloped landscape is carefully maintained with the cascade arrangement and ramp circulation of the building. Old roof tiles are extensively used as roofing and also an outer screen outside the glass walls of the building. The tiles serve the purpose as shading device by casting a myriad of floating shadows in the interior. Their existence provokes a poetic atmosphere made of light and shadow. Before our trip, we were delighted to find out that the Folk Art Museum would be ready to open its doors two days before our visit. Unfortunately, when we arrived at its door, all we could see was an empty building with several installation workers inside the building. All we could do was walk around the building and ascend to the accessible roof via a long flight of exterior stair that penetrates the museum in the middle.

After our visit to Xiangshan, we took the public bus back to Downtown Hangzhou. We returned to the hotel to pick up our bags, took a taxi to the airport bus station, and hopped onto the bus for Hangzhou International Airport. When we get off, the yellowish afternoon sun and a banner promoting a new direct flight from Hangzhou to Copenhagen greeted our arrival at the airport. It wasn’t too busy in the airport concourse and we had plenty of time after checking into the waiting zone, reviewing our photographs in the cameras while waiting for our Dragon Air flight back to Hong Kong. This concludes our 5-day visit to Anhui and Hangzhou.
The pathway that leads up to the museum entrance and entrance forecourt.

After we walked up the stair to the upper part, we reached a platform and a secondary entrance of the museum, and a stair that leads further up to the roof.