Gion | Blue Lapis Road

DAY 2 (5/6): SFERA BUILDING (スフェラ・ビル), SHIRKAWA GION (祇園白川), KAMO RIVER (鴨川) & DOWNTOWN, Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.04

Weather forecast predicted a rainy afternoon. We planned to spend the rest of the day in Downtown Kyoto on the other side of Kamo River (鴨川). Before crossing the river, we went to check out Sfera Building, a three storey modern architecture housing design, craft, art, and cuisine all under one roof. Unlike the timber houses in much of Gion (祇園), Swedish architect Claesson Koivisto Rune used titanium panels with perforated leaf patterns as cladding for Sfera Building. These perforated panels echo the sunscreens in traditional Japanese houses made of wood, bamboo and rice paper. In Sfera, there were fine furniture and housewares on display, some were made by local craftsmen and artists. We explored all floors of the building, and exited through its back door on Yamato Oji Dori. Just a block south we came to the picturesque Shirakawa Minami Dori (白川南通) at Shirakawa Gion (祇園白川), where the clear Shirakawa Canal passed in front of a row of well-preserved machiya houses (町家). Many of these old houses were accessible via bridges. We entered Pass the Baton, a trendy lifestyle shop that transformed a 120 year timber machiya house into a hub for the young generation. A number of the locals were dressed in traditional kimonos, matching perfectly well with the historical ambience of the machiya houses.

We crossed the Kamo River (鴨川) via Shijo Bridge, which continued as Shijo Dori into the heart of Downtown Kyoto. In summer, the banks of Kamo River is packed with dining patios and music performers. It was too cold in early December for these outdoor activities to take place. Nevertheless, the pleasant riverbanks were occupied with all kinds of people. A few waterbirds were walking in shallow water hunting for fish. On the bank, a group of teenage girls in colourful kimonos were taking selfies. An angler walked to the middle of the river and released his hook with his rod. We watched him for a few minutes, and suddenly he pulled his rod and acted like caught something on his hook. All eyes along the banks, including ours from the bridge, were on the angler. He didn’t disappoint us and managed to catch a fish that was at least two feet long.

As we walked west along the busy Shijo Dori (四条通) into the city, it soon began to rain. We went into Fujii Daimaru (藤井大丸), one of the many department stores on Shijo Dori. Despite smallest in size, with its latest fashion selections, Fujii Daimaru is popular with young shoppers. We walked along Shijo Dori as far as the intersection of Karasuma Dori (烏丸通), reaching a shopping centre called Cocon Karasuma (古今烏丸), which was a renovation work designed by architect Kengo Kuma (隈研吾) back in 2004. Kengo Kuma superimposes a 21st century glass facade laminated with a film of woodcut block patterns of clouds common in the Edo Period onto the original building elevation dated back to 1938. The sky was getting dark and we decided to grab a quick bite. Just before all vendor shutters were down, we entered Nishiki Market (錦市場), a famous covered market street selling all kinds of snacks from sushi to Japanese pickles. We picked up some tofu doughnuts at Konnamonja, and some local jumbo chestnuts before heading back to our hotel for a brief break prior to our dinner reservation at Yakitori Hitomi (焼創彩鳥家人見).

The titanium screen with leaf patterns of Sfera Building by Swedish architectural practice Claesson Koivisto Rune.

The design display on the top floor of Sfera Building.

The sleek bench at the back entrance at Sfera.

Back facade of Sfera Building at Yamato Oji Don.

The tranquil Shirakawa Canal at Gion (祇園白川)

Young women in traditional kimonos at Shirakawa Gion (祇園白川)

Couple in traditional clothings taking photos Shirakawa Gion (祇園白川)

A touch of heritage in the interior design at Pass the Baton, Shirakawa Gion (祇園白川)

Kamo River (鴨川) is a popular public space in Kyoto.

Women in kimonos taking pictures of themselves at Kamo River (鴨川).

The iconic Tohka-Saikan (東華菜館) Chinese restaurant building by the bank of Kamo River (鴨川).

An angler struggling with his catch at Kamo River (鴨川).

Our first encounter with Kamo River (鴨川) was simple and pleasant.

A man playing a three-string Shamisen (三味線) with his bachi, a Japanese plectrum.

Erizen Honten (ゑり善本店), a traditional clothing shop with a contemporary facade on Shijo.

Cocon Karasuma, an urban shopping centre designed by architect Kengo Kuma.

An atrium of Cocon Karasuma with a special pop up store of sake from Fushimi.

Covered retail street in Downtown Kyoto.

Soy vendor Konnamonja with their famous tofu doughnuts at Nishiki.

Tofu doughnuts from Konnamonja at Nishiki Market.

Local chestnut from Nishiki Market.

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January 28, 2017 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kyoto and Nara 2016, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: Architecture, ゑり善本店, bachi, Claesson Koivisto Rune, Cocon Karasuma, 烏丸, 烏丸通, 町家, 白川, 白川南通, 祇園, design, Erizen Honten, 錦市場, 藤井大丸, 隈研吾, 鴨川, Gion, Japan, Kamo, Karasuma, Kengo Kuma, Konnamonja, Kyoto, machiya, market, Nishiki, plectrum, Sfera, shamisen, Shijo, Shirakawa, Shirakawa Minami Dori, 古今烏丸, 三味線 | Leave a comment

DAY 2 (4/6): ○△□ and Chouontei Garden and Ceiling of Twin Dragons, KENNINJI TEMPLE (建仁寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.04

Claimed to be the oldest Zen Buddhist temple in Kyoto, Kenninji Temple (建仁寺) is a Buddhist temple famous for its zen gardens and traditional paintings in Gion (祇園). Kenninji was founded in 1202 by Buddhist priest Eisai/Yousai (明菴栄西). Two times Yousai went to China and brought back with him Zen scriptures and tea seeds, from which Zen Buddhism and the practice of green tea drinking flourished in Japan ever since. As a result, Yousai was also considered to be the founder of the tea ceremony in Japan. Since the 14th century, Kenninji was considered one of the five most important Zen Buddhist temples in Kyoto, known as the Gozan (五山十刹制度) or the Five Mountain System. Today, Kenninji stands at third in this ranking system, behind Tenryuji (天龍寺) and Shokokuji (相国寺), and ahead of Tofukuji (東福寺) and Manjuji (万寿寺). On top of this five temples is Nanzenji, which serves as the leading Zen Buddhist temple in today’s Kyoto.

Today, with its meditation gardens, ancient teahouse, and timber halls, Kenninji serves as a tranquil oasis in the busy and dense neighborhood of Gion. We entered the Kenninji compound from its North Gate at Hanamikoji Dori. Once inside, we took off our shoes and paid our admission at Hojo (方丈). Inside Hojo, one of the most popular art work on display was “Fujin and Raijin”, a pair of two-folded screen depicting the Wind and Thunder Gods by Tawaraya Sotatsu (俵屋宗達) from the early 17 century. The dry landscape garden in front of Hojo was also quite impressive, so as the traditional paintings on the sliding doors of the building, including the Cloud Dragon (雲龍図) and Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove (竹林七賢図). But for us, the most amazing artwork at Kenninji was Twin Dragons (双龍図), a 11.4m x 15.7m ceiling mural by Koizumi Junsaku in the Hatto (法堂), or Dharma Hall to celebrate the 800-year anniversary of the temple. Completed in 2002, it took Koizumi Junsaku two years to finish this enormous ceiling painting in the gymnasium of an elementary school in Hokkaido.

Also worth noting was the Toyobo Tea-house, a two mat tea room dated back to the 16th century. We peeked through an opening into the tea-house and saw a simple interior with tatami flooring and a semi-open partition supported by a natural wooden branch as column. Before leaving, we spent a considerable period of time at Choontei Garden (潮音庭), a beautifully constructed zen garden surrounded by wooden verandas. At Choontei, there were three stones at the centre of the courtyard, representing Buddha and two Zen monks. Choontei was also the perfect courtyard to sit on the veranda and admire the autumn maples. On our way out, we passed by another small courtyard which named as ○△□. The serene garden introduces landscape components such as a tree in circular planter or a square area of gravel as visual representations of ○△□, which symbolized water, fire and earth. The spiritual experience of the gardens, the lovely visual palette of the dark timber, green moss and crimson maples, and the refreshing breeze and warm sunlight enabled us to enjoy a moment of meditation. Leaving this tranquil dimension, we would meander through Gion, cross the picturesque Kamo River, and enter the busy streets of Downtown Kyoto.

Entering the Hojo (方丈) Hall, which was built in 1599.

The first thing of the visit was to take off our shoes.

Centuries-old timber structure of the Hojo (方丈) Hall.

“Fujin and Raijin”or the Wind and Thunder God, is the most popular artworks in Kenninji Temple.

The semi open interior space of Hojo (方丈) allows sunlight to enter the building from different directions.

Visitors sitting by the veranda of Hojo to admire the dry landscape garden.

The Cloud Dragon screen paintings at the Hojo were by 16th century artist Kaiho Yusho.

The elegant prayer hall of Hojo with the painting of Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove (竹林七賢図) on the sliding screens.

Zen Garden or the dry landscape garden at Hojo.

Visitors relaxed themselves at the veranda in front of the Zen Garden.

We saw quite a number of young women dressed traditional kimono dress in several sights of Kyoto, including Kenninji.

The enormous ceiling mural of Twin Dragons (双龍図) in the Hatto (法堂) or the Dharma Hall.

Twin Dragons over the main altar at Hatto.

A stone tsukubai (蹲踞) or stone waterbasin in the tea house garden of Kenninji.

The minimalist Toyobo Tea-house was built in 1587.

A path of stone pavers connected a prayer pavilion with the building’s veranda.

Chouontei Garden (潮音庭) as viewed from the inside.

Awesome autumn colours at Chouontei Garden (潮音庭).

Deep sense of autumn at Chouontei Garden (潮音庭).

Overview of Chouontei Garden (潮音庭), with the San-zon seki (the three stones that represent Buddha and two Zen monks.

The ○△□ Garden (○△□乃庭) was a simple Zen garden.

The ○△□ symbolizes water, fire and earth.

Leaving Kenninji behind, we were ready to venture into Downtown Kyoto to experience the other side of the ancient city.

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January 22, 2017 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kyoto and Nara 2016, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: abbot, Architecture, autumn, ○△□, Buddhism, Buddhist, ceiling, courtyard, 竹林七賢図, dragon, Eisai, 雲龍図, fall, foliage, Fujin, Fujin and Raijin, garden, Gion, gozan, Higashiyama, house, Japan, Kenninji, Koizumi Junsaku, Kyoto, maples, Raijin, Rinzai, Tawaraya Sotatsu, tea, Temple, timber, zen, 明菴栄西, 五山十刹制度, 京都, 潮音庭, 俵屋宗達 | Leave a comment

DAY 2 (1/6): MORNING STROLL IN SOUTHERN HIGASHIYAMA (東山), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.04

There is perhaps no better place in Kyoto to take a morning stroll than the area of Southern Higashiyama, in the historical alleyways between Yasaka Jinja (八坂神社) and Kiyomizu-dera Temple (清水寺). The bus dropped us off at the street intersection of Higashioji Dori (東大路通) and Shijo Dori (四条通). We picked up a box of sushi from Lawson convenience store for breakfast, then crossed the road to enter Yasaka Shrine from its west gate. Yasaka Jinja is one of the most popular shrines in Kyoto, especially when the most famous festival in Japan, Gion Matsuri, takes place annually in July for over a thousand years. Though in the early morning that we visited, there were only a handful of worshipers and tourists around. Like many Shinto shrines, Yasaka was like a park dotted with pavilions and shrines. The most prominent feature in Yasaka was the central pavilion of lanterns with donor names written on them. Exiting the shrine from its south gate, we headed south in the direction of Kiyomizu-dera, intending to return to this iconic temple for a daytime visit. Soon we reached the entrance of a traditional stone paved alleyway known as Ishibei Koji (石塀小路). Flanked both sides by historical timber homes, restaurants and ryokans, the alleyway exemplified what Medieval Kyoto might be like. We were delighted to have the lane all by ourselves. After making a few turns in Ishibei Koji, we exited the alleyway at the other end, standing just a stone throw away from two other greatly preserved historical alleyways, Ninenzaka (二年坂) and Sannenzaka (三年坂).

From Ishibei Koji, we continued to walk south on Nene-no-michi Lane (ねねの道), the historical stone paved street in front of the park of Kodaiji Temple. Soon we arrived at the picturesque Ninenzaka (二年坂). Timber townhouses known as machiya (町屋) were beautifully preserved along this heritage lane. Telephone cables which were normally suspended in mid air from street poles to street poles were nowhere to be seen. It was still early, shops had yet opened their doors and there were hardly any other tourists. We took our time to soak up the historical atmosphere. When we reached Yasaka Dori (八坂通), we made a short detour down to take a daytime photo of the Yasaka Pagoda of Hokanji Temple (法観寺八坂の塔). Heading back uphill and we soon arrived at Sannenzaka (三年坂), another atmospheric lane with steps that led us to Matsubara Dori (松原通), the last bit of road that would take us back to the entrance of the most iconic temple in Japan, Kiyomizu-dera Temple (清水寺).

Arriving at the intersection of Higashioji Dori (東大路通) and Shijo Dori (四条通).

The west gate of Yasaka Jinja (八坂神社)

We also passed by smaller shrines in the complex.

There were hardly anyone around at the main court of the complex.

Traditional lanterns written with donor’s name.

Walking along a lane with orange fence and lanterns and autumn foliage.

Two ladies walking uphill towards Maruyama Park (円山公園).

Vending machine and the iconic Yasaka Pagoda in a distance.

Poster regarding the night visits at Kiyomizu-dera.

At IIshibei Koji, we had to keep quiet while walking through the stone paved lane.

Temple houses at IIshibei Koji.

A tiny shrine by a manhole at Nene-no-Michi Lane.

Magnificent timber machiya along Sannenzaka.

Approaching the steps of Sannenzaka.

Roadside shrine at Sannenzaka.

The stepped part of Ninenzaka.

Yasaka Pagoda as seen from Kamimachi (八坂通).

Walking uphill at Sannenzaka.

Approaching the steps of Sannenzaka.

Looking back down Sannenzaka from the steps.

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January 12, 2017 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kyoto and Nara 2016, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: ねねの道, 町屋, 石塀小路, Gion, Higashiyama, History, Hokanji, Ishibei Koji, Japan, Jinja, Kiyomizu dera, Kyoto, machiya, Matsubara, Nene-no-Michi, Ninenzaka, pagoda, Sannenzaka, Shrine, Temple, Yasaka, zen, 八坂の塔, 八坂神社, 八坂通, 四条通, 東山, 松原通, 清水寺, 三年坂, 二年坂, 京都 | Leave a comment

DAY 1 (6/6): NIGHT AT KIYOMIZU-DERA (清水寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.03

As first time visitors to Kyoto, we were eager to see the autumn colours at the world famous Kiyomizu-dera (清水寺), especially when we knew that the iconic Kiyomizu Stage (清水の舞台) would undergo a major renovation starting from January 2017. It was the second last day of the season that Kiyomizu-dera opened for autumn special night viewing, and according to local weather forecast, Kyoto’s weather would turn bad in a day’s time. Without hesitation we hopped on a bus near Kitano Tenmangu and headed back to Higashiyama. We had some rest on the 45-minute bus ride. After getting off, we picked one alleyway to walk uphill. Soon we arrived at the magnificent Hokanji Yasaka Pagoda (法観寺八坂の塔). As we walked uphill, we felt like we were pilgrims going back in time, entering into a world of narrow stone alleyways, centuries-old timber houses and Buddhist buildings. Along the way, most shops were already closed, but a few souvenir and snack shops still opened to serve the night visitors of Kiyomizu-dera. Over our heads, we soon discovered a strong beam of blue light in the sky, pointing from Mount Otowa (音羽山) where the temple was situated, outwards to the infinite sky above the city. According to the official website, the light embodies the Kannon (観音)’s compassion, brightening the streets of the ancient city. For us, it was like a guidance leading us uphill. It get more crowded as we walked closer to the temple. Minutes later we arrived at the stepped plaza of Niomon Gate (仁王門). In front of the famous Saimon Gate (西門), we lined up to get our admission tickets from a temporary shelter and delightfully walked up the stair to enter the temple complex.

The autumn foliage at Kiyomizu-dera had past its peak a few days ago. Nonetheless, all visitors including us were excited to tour around the celebrated complex under the illuminations of floodlights and embellishment of the remaining autumn maples. At the main hall, we took off our shoes, paid our respect in front of the sanctuary, and admired the illuminated autumn colours down in the valley below Kiyomizu Stage. Standing 13m above the valley, the Kiyomizu Stage (清水の舞台) had been the centerpiece of the temple for centuries. Without using a single nail, the Kiyomizu Stage is made of 410 Hinoki wooden boards supported by 18 Zelkova pillars using the hole and grooves technique known as the Kakezukuri Method. From the stage, a stone path led us to the opposite side of the valley, where a large crowd gathered in front of Okunoin Hall (奥の院) looking back to admire the main hall and Kiyomizu Stage. Perched above the fire red maples, the huge roof of the main hall made of Hinoki bark and the lattice structure of Kiyomizu Stage looked gorgeously timeless, while the comet-like beam of blue light connected the temple with the glittering urban skyline beyond. The path overlooking the valley of colourful leaves then led us further away from the main hall until reaching the base of the small pagoda where we headed down to the valley. In the valley, a tree-lined path brought us all the way back to the bottom of the Kiyomizu Stage, where the adjacent Otowa waterfall (音羽の瀧) came down in three separated streams. Another crowd of visitors formed a long queue at the waterfall, waiting for their turn to drink the water with the special cup provided. As we headed to the temple exit, we passed by a mirror-like pond with magnificent reflections of autumn leaves and the orange Three-storey Pagoda above the cliff.

We were overjoyed for having such a fruitful day of sightseeing. To give this beautiful day a satisfying closure we opted for a late dinner. We walked downhill from Kiyomizu-dera, passed through Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社), and entered the lively district of Gion (祇園), the active area of traditional geisha. We picked Okaru (おかる), a small udon restaurant popular with geiko since established in 1923. We ordered two of their signature noodle bowls and felt truly grateful of finishing our wonderful first day of Kyoto.

Passing by the Hokanji Yasaka Pagoda (法観寺八坂の塔) as we headed up to Kiyomizu-dera.

Minutes later we arrived at the stepped plaza of Niomon Gate (仁王門).

In front of the famous Saimon Gate (西門), we lined up to get our admission tickets from a temporary shelter, while the beam of blue light shot up the sky behind the temple.

Stone statue in front of the Three-storey Pagoda.

Looking back out to the Three-storey Pagoda behind entering the main hall.

Visitors stepping into the timber structure of the main hall.

Inside the main hall, the sanctuary is consisted of three sections: outer, inner, and innermost. Only the outer sanctuary is open to the public.

Visitors gathered on the Kiyomizu Stage photographing the skyline of Kyoto.

The strong beam of blue light shot out from Mount Otowa behind the temple.

Behind the Kiyomizu Stage, a prominent stair led down to the Otowa waterfall.

Iconic overview of Kiyomizu Stage, main hall, autumn maples, blue light and Kyoto skyline.

The beam of blue light pointed towards Kyoto Tower in a distance.

The stair adjacent to the timber structure of the Kiyomizu Stage.

The amazing structure of Kiyomizu Stage lit up with floodlight.

Lanterns indicating special night viewing, which happens three times a year: cherry season in spring, three days of Thousand-day Pilgrimage/Special Viewing of nainaijin in the Main Hall in the summer, and the maple colours in autumn.