ultramarinus – beyond the sea

Posts tagged “Chivay

ROAD TO TITICACA, Colca Canyon to Puno, Peru

Maca was the last village we visited in the Colca Canyon.  Stood against the Andean mountains, the pure white walls and green painted doorway of Maca’s church left us a lingering feeling of the Altiplano (Andean Plateau) villages in this part of Peru.  It was a feeling that emerges from simple but harsh living condition, rough but beautiful landscapes, humble villagers mingled with curious tourists.  After Chivay, our minibus continued to crisscross the mountain roads in the area of Salinas and Aguada Blanca National Reserve where we passed by the day before.  Soon, we bid farewell to the area with our last glance of the Misti Volcano.

The ride heading east to Puno was bumpy and felt awfully long.  In mid-afternoon, we reached the picturesque Laguna Lagunillas at 4,450m above sea level.  Dozens of flamingos dotted the blue icy water, against a backdrop of golden windswept landscape.  In the strong and freezing winds, we stood as long as we could to take in the scenery and refreshing mountain air.  After the magnificent lake, the minibus just kept on going east until the sun was set.

After hours of bus ride in the mountains, we were all exhausted when we arrived at Puno.  Located right by the northwestern shore of Lake Titicaca, Puno is the largest city in the Southern Altiplano.  It is a transportation hub and a convenient base for tourists to explore the lake and its islands.  We walked a bit in the downtown area, found a place to grab a quick bite, and retired early to our hotel room to gain some rest in order to get over the high altitude syndrome as best  as we could.  The next day, we would sail out the highest navigable lake (by large boats) in the world to experience the magic of the deep blue Lake Titicaca.

9Church at Maca village near Chivay.

10The underside of the green doorway of Maca church.

2Even at sleepy Maca, tourism has been transforming the life of villagers in recent years. We tried a freshly squeezed juice of a local fruit which we all loved it. A small vendor next to the juice stand was an old woman selling dried roots chips which tasted delicious too.

1Farewell to Misti Volcano.

3By the mountain highway at an altitude of 4,450m, Laguna Lagunillas was really in the middle of nowhere.

4Crystal clear water and groups of flamingos.

5Peaceful scenery of Laguna Lagunillas.

9Traffic police stand with advertisement of Inca Kola at downtown Puno.

10Streetscape of downtown Puno near central market.

11Vendors at the main covered market in Puno.

13El Rancho, a grilled chicken restaurant in downtown Puno.

14Bread for sale on the street of Puno.

15The Glorioso Colegio Nacional de San Carlos at Pino Park in downtown Puno.

16Iglesia de San Juan at Pino Park in downtown Puno.

17The pedestrianized Lima Street in downtown Puno.

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Read other posts on Peru Trip 2010

LIMA
1. Peru Trip 2010
2.  Bumpy Arrival, Lima & Arequipa, Peru
AREQUIPA & COLCA CANYON
3.  Monasterio de Santa Catalina, Arequipa, Peru
4.  Plaza de Armas, Arequipa, Peru
5.  Volcanoes and Vicuna, Pampa Canahuas Natural Reserve, Patahuasi, and Patapampa, Peru
6.  Yanque, Colca Canyon, Peru
7. Cruz del Condor, Colca Canyon, Peru
8. Farming Terraces, Colca Canyon, Peru
PUNO & TITICACA
9. Road to Titicaca, Colca Canyon to Puno, Peru
10. Afternoon on Taquile Island, Titicaca, Peru
11. Morning on Taquile, Titicaca, Peru
12. Inka Express, Puno to Cusco, Peru
CUSCO & SACRED VALLEY
13. Pisac & Ollantaytambo, Sacred Valley, Peru
14. Salinas de Maras, & Moray, Sacred Valley, Peru
15. Lucuma Milkshake & Plaza de Armas, Cusco, Peru
16. Saksaywaman, Cusco, Peru
INCA TRAIL
17. KM 82 to Wayllabamba, Inca Trail, Peru
18. Wayllabamba to Pacamayo, Inca Trail, Peru
19. Pacasmayo to Winay Wayna, Inca Trail, Peru
20. Winay Wayna to Machu Picchu, Inca Trail, Peru
21. Machu Piccu, Inca Trail, Peru
22. Machu Picchu in Black and White, Inca Trail, Peru
23. Afterthought, Inca Trail, Peru
LAST DAY IN CUSCO & LIMA
24. Farewell to the Incas, Cusco, Peru
25. Last Day in Peru, Lima, Peru


YANQUE, Colca Canyon, Peru

All fellow travelers in our tour group chose Chivay as their base to stay the night.  We were the only ones who picked Yanque, a sleepy village a few kilometres west of Chivay.  At Yanque, we checked in at Collahua Hotel, a mountain resort with dozens of guest bungalows.  Each of us have certain degrees of high altitude symptoms.  After a short rest, our guide came to pick us up for the hot spring La Calera Thermal Waters in Chivay.

La Calera is an open-air hot spring.  According to our guide, the thermal water came from a volcanic system nearby.  My friends and I had a great time chatting in the thermal pool.  After the thermal bath, I felt that all my high altitude symptoms were gone.  Our guide then took us to a restaurant in Chivay for dinner.  The restaurant was small but packed with tourists.  After the meal, local musicians came in to play traditional music with Peruvian pan flutes and charangos.  Along with the musicians, dancers dressed in colourful costumes engaged everyone of us with their delightful moves and laughter.  We had some enjoyable moments, especially when one of our friends was invited to join the performers for a dance.

The next morning, we had a brief visit of the small church in Yanque, Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción.  Similar to many colonial architecture in Arequipa, the white walls of Yanque’s Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepcion were made of volcanic sillar stones.  Touches of baroque influences such as the exquisite ornaments on the exterior were visible.  Soon the guide urged everyone to get on the bus to depart for Mirador Cruz de Condor, a popular spot in Colca Canyon where visitors may get a close encounter with the mighty Andean condors.

2Streetscape of Yanque.

3Streetscape of Yanque.

P1020125Streetscape of Yanque.

P1020119Our room at Hotel Collahua in Yanque.

P1020135Yanque’s Hotel Collahua under the early morning sun.

4Dancing children at the main square in the morning.

5Dancing children at the main square in the morning.

6Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción, Yanque

7Latin cross at Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción, Yanque

8Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción, Yanque

11Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción, Yanque

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Read other posts on Peru Trip 2010

LIMA
1. Peru Trip 2010
2.  Bumpy Arrival, Lima & Arequipa, Peru
AREQUIPA & COLCA CANYON
3.  Monasterio de Santa Catalina, Arequipa, Peru
4.  Plaza de Armas, Arequipa, Peru
5.  Volcanoes and Vicuna, Pampa Canahuas Natural Reserve, Patahuasi, and Patapampa, Peru
6.  Yanque, Colca Canyon, Peru
7. Cruz del Condor, Colca Canyon, Peru
8. Farming Terraces, Colca Canyon, Peru
PUNO & TITICACA
9. Road to Titicaca, Colca Canyon to Puno, Peru
10. Afternoon on Taquile Island, Titicaca, Peru
11. Morning on Taquile, Titicaca, Peru
12. Inka Express, Puno to Cusco, Peru
CUSCO & SACRED VALLEY
13. Pisac & Ollantaytambo, Sacred Valley, Peru
14. Salinas de Maras, & Moray, Sacred Valley, Peru
15. Lucuma Milkshake & Plaza de Armas, Cusco, Peru
16. Saksaywaman, Cusco, Peru
INCA TRAIL
17. KM 82 to Wayllabamba, Inca Trail, Peru
18. Wayllabamba to Pacamayo, Inca Trail, Peru
19. Pacasmayo to Winay Wayna, Inca Trail, Peru
20. Winay Wayna to Machu Picchu, Inca Trail, Peru
21. Machu Piccu, Inca Trail, Peru
22. Machu Picchu in Black and White, Inca Trail, Peru
23. Afterthought, Inca Trail, Peru
LAST DAY IN CUSCO & LIMA
24. Farewell to the Incas, Cusco, Peru
25. Last Day in Peru, Lima, Peru


VOLCANOES AND VICUNA, Pampa Cañahuas Natural Reserve, Patahuasi, and Patapampa, Peru

The next morning, a tour minibus came to our hotel to pick us up for our prearranged two-day tour of the Colca Canyon.  Located about 100 miles from Arequipa, Colca Canyon is a popular tourist attraction for visitors of the colonial city.  Andean condors, highland wildlife, Inca farming terraces, extinct and dormant volcanoes, mountain scenery, Quechua and Aymara cultures, and a river valley over twice as deep as the Grand Canyon, the Colca Canyon has a lot to offer.

After picking up a dozen or so of fellow travelers from various hotels around Arequipa, our minibus left Arequipa and headed for the mountainous area of Salinas and Aguada Blanca National Reserve.  At a midway lookout, we stopped for a short break to admire a group of vicuna under the shadow of mighty Misti Volcano.  Vicuna, the national animal of Peru, is one of the two wild South American camelids and the ancient ancestor of alpacas.  Wild vicuna produces some of the finest and most expensive wool in the world.  The sighting of wild vicunas under the Misti officially kicked off our visit to the Peruvian highlands.  Our minibus climbed up steadily from the elevation of about 2,300m to over 3,500 at a popular tourist service station at Patahuasi, where herbal tea such as coca or muna were served.  Outside the service station, vendors took up a concrete lot selling all kinds of souvenirs from handicrafts to knitted garments.

After the tea and souvenir break, our minibus continued to ascend the highlands above 4000m in elevation, passing by a number of scenic highland wetlands and reaching the highest pass of Patapampa at 4900m.  By then, many of us on the bus had shown symptoms of high altitude sickness, from stomachache to terrible headache.  At Patapampa, there was a brief stop where we could take in the magnificent mountain views in the embrace of a number of extinct volcanoes.  A few souvenir stalls and llamas stood by the lookout, awaiting for tourists like me who braved the high altitude sickness for a heroic feat of photographing ourselves of reaching a 4900m+ pass.  To avoid the danger of high altitude sickness due to our rapid ascend from Arequipa to Patapampa, the 4900m stop was very brief while our movements outside the bus were kept in slow motion.

After Patapampa, our bus gradually descended to the mountain valley of Chivay at 3600m.  Before reaching Chivay, we made a final stop at a lookout overlooking the valley.  We walked over to the cliff edge to photograph the scenery of Chivay in a distance.  Several Quechua vendors dressed in traditional clothing braved the scorching sun and fierce wind selling tourist souvenirs and traditional alpaca knitwear.

2Leaving Arequipa behind, our minibus ascended to the highlands of Salinas and Aguada Blanca National Reserve.

1Much of the landscape is rough and covered by volcanic stone.

3The extinct volcanoes of the area reveal an active geological past. [Scanned positive slide]

4Wild vicunas roamed these lands under the shadow of Misti Volcano. [Scanned positive slide]

5Patahuasi has the only service stop between Arequipa and Chivay, and is a frequent tea stop for tour groups.

6Muna and colca teas are popular among tourists.

7Souvenir stalls adjacent to the service station at Patahuasi, with surreal rock formations in the backdrop.

8After Patahuasi, we ascended further up to the mountainous highlands.

9 Large area of the highlands is saturated with water. [Scanned positive slide]

10These mountain wetlands are home to unique highland animals such as Andean flamingos.

11While most of us were well aware of the dizziness and headache from the high altitude soon after leaving Patahuasi, our bus quietly arrived at the highest pass of our entire journey, Patapampa at 4900m above sea level.

13At Patapampa, we were greeted by several souvenir vendors…

12…as well as a few llamas dressed with funny looking decorations, and uncounted piles of stone cairns as roadside shrines to the Inca goddess Pachamama.

14Before reaching Chivay, we stopped at a lookout where several vendors were selling souvenirs and knitwear.

1From the lookout, the village of Chivay lies at the river valley further down the road. [Scanned positive slide]

 

* * *

Read other posts on Peru Trip 2010

LIMA
1. Peru Trip 2010
2.  Bumpy Arrival, Lima & Arequipa, Peru
AREQUIPA & COLCA CANYON
3.  Monasterio de Santa Catalina, Arequipa, Peru
4.  Plaza de Armas, Arequipa, Peru
5.  Volcanoes and Vicuna, Pampa Canahuas Natural Reserve, Patahuasi, and Patapampa, Peru
6.  Yanque, Colca Canyon, Peru
7. Cruz del Condor, Colca Canyon, Peru
8. Farming Terraces, Colca Canyon, Peru
PUNO & TITICACA
9. Road to Titicaca, Colca Canyon to Puno, Peru
10. Afternoon on Taquile Island, Titicaca, Peru
11. Morning on Taquile, Titicaca, Peru
12. Inka Express, Puno to Cusco, Peru
CUSCO & SACRED VALLEY
13. Pisac & Ollantaytambo, Sacred Valley, Peru
14. Salinas de Maras, & Moray, Sacred Valley, Peru
15. Lucuma Milkshake & Plaza de Armas, Cusco, Peru
16. Saksaywaman, Cusco, Peru
INCA TRAIL
17. KM 82 to Wayllabamba, Inca Trail, Peru
18. Wayllabamba to Pacamayo, Inca Trail, Peru
19. Pacasmayo to Winay Wayna, Inca Trail, Peru
20. Winay Wayna to Machu Picchu, Inca Trail, Peru
21. Machu Piccu, Inca Trail, Peru
22. Machu Picchu in Black and White, Inca Trail, Peru
23. Afterthought, Inca Trail, Peru
LAST DAY IN CUSCO & LIMA
24. Farewell to the Incas, Cusco, Peru
25. Last Day in Peru, Lima, Peru