TEMPLE BY THE NULLAH, Pak Tai Temple (灣仔北帝廟), Wan Chai, Hong Kong

For a city with 1,113 sq.km of land, Hong Kong has an astonishing 1,178km (some say 733km depending if all 261 outer islands are counted) of coastline. From a fishing village to a global trading port, Hong Kong’s relationship with the sea is the most essential character for the city. Before the arrival of the British, the city was no more than a scattered collection of fishing communities across the territory. Where there were fishing villages there would also be shrines dedicated to guardian deities of the sea. Many of these communities were made up with diasporas from different regions of China, where each has their unique customs and guardian deity, thus bringing a wide range of temples to the city. Popular sea deity in Hong Kong includes Tin hau (天后), a Fujianese sea goddess also named Mazu in Taiwan and Southeast Asia; Hung Shing (洪聖), god of the southern seas originated from a Guangdong official in the Tang Dynasty; Pak Tai (北帝), a Taoist cosmological god from Northern China; Tam Kung (譚公), a sea god common in Huizhou of Guangdong; Lung Mo (龍母), another sea goddess from Southern China known as the Dragon Mother, etc.
In Wan Chi, 500m from the Hung Shing Temple (洪聖古廟), Pak Tai Temple(灣仔北帝廟) stands as a much bigger temple complex hidden under the shadows of an imposing old Banyan tree in a public park at the upper end of Stone Nullah Lane. Hidden at the tranquil end of the Stone Nullah neighbourhood, visiting the temple feels like entering a distinct world from the commercial district of Wan Chai, despite the iconic 78 storey Central Plaza and the waterfront skyline are just 800m to the north. Built in 1863, Pak Tai Temple is the largest temple complex on Hong Kong Island, and home to a 400 year old bronze statue and a 160 year old antique bell. Also called Yuk Hui Kong (玉虛宮), Pak Tai Temple is mainly dedicated to Pak Tai (北帝), a Taoist god from Northern China that is also called Xuanwu (玄武) or Xuantian Shangdi (玄天上帝). Pak Tai is a powerful god related to the Northern Star and one of the 28 constellations of the north, controlling the power of water in the five elements, and thus he is also considered as a sea god. Apart from Pak Tai, the temple also serves as an one stop worshipping hall for a number of traditional Chinese deities, such as Ji Gong (濟公), Eight Immortals (八仙), Guan Yu (關公), Bodhisattva Guanyin (觀音), City God Shing Wong (城隍), God of Wealth Choi Sen (財神), constellation deities Tai Sui (太歲), Dragon Mother Lung Mo (龍母), etc. Perhaps of its central location, Pak Tai Temple continues to attract worshippers from across the city even in the 21st century. It is definitely one of the busiest temples we have visited in Hong Kong.




















DAY 1 (3/6): TOKYO NATIONAL MUSEUM (東京国立博物館), Ueno Park (上野公園), Tokyo, Japan, 2017.06.14

After the magnificent lunch bento at Innsyoutei, we followed the main path further into Ueno Park to reach the museum clusters. Here one can find the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum, National Museum of Nature and Science, National Museum of Wester Art, as well as the largest of them all, the Tokyo National Museum. Established in 1872, the Tokyo National Museum (東京国立博物館) is the oldest and largest Japanese museum. We didn’t plan to see everything. We were a little tired from the flight, so we took it easy to explore the museum complex.
The Tokyo National Museum is consisted of several buildings: Honkan, Toyokan, Heiseikan, Hyokeikan, etc. We started with Honkan, the main museum hall. This present Honkan was designed by Watanabe Jin. The building was completed in 1938 to replace its predecessor designed by British architect Josiah Conder. The former building was severely damaged in the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923.
There are two main levels in the Honkan. We walked up the grand staircase to the upper level to begin our visit.
Beautiful amours of samurai and shogunate were some of the most impressive artefacts in the museum.
The “Fujin and Raijin”or the Wind and Thunder God by Ogata Korin reminded us our visit to Kyoto’s Kenninji Temple (建仁寺), the original location of the screen. At Kenninji, we saw a replica of the famous screen.
The Yaksha Generals (12 Heavenly Generals) is one of the most impressive display in the historical sculpture collection.
Architectural drawings by British architects from the 19th century reveal the popularity of Western culture in Japan during the Meiji Period.
Historical photograph of a Japanese samurai taken in 1862.
At Honkan, there is a room opens to the garden behind the museum. The room is decorated with exquisite mosaic and plastered motifs.
A traditional telephone matches well with the historical decor.
A garden of traditional pavilion and reflective pool provided some fresh air during our museum visit. Unfortunately the pavilion was inaccessible from the museum.
Apart from sculptures, paintings and photographs, historical textiles and garments also provided us a glimpse of the old Japan.
The museum shop at Honkan is beautiful designed. A gentle passageway ramps up to the upper mezzanine. Along the ramp stands a low wall of book display.
After Honkan, we walked to the adjacent Toyokan Building. Toyokan houses a few levels of artifacts and artworks from Asia and the Middle East.
The Chinese and Korean exhibits reveal the close linkage between the cultures of the Far East.
The Toyokan also contains some interesting pieces from Egypt and the Near East. After visiting Honkan and Toyokan, we had a little more understanding on the heritage of Japan, and felt it was time to check out the other museums in Ueno Park. So we exited the Tokyo National Museum, passed by a gigantic model of a blue whale in front of the National Museum of Nature and Science and headed towards the National Museum of Western Art.
DAY 3 – MING CITY WALL, Xian, China

We chose the historical city wall to end our visit of Xian. Constructed upon an earlier imperial fortification network of the Tang Dynasty, the First Emperor of Ming Dynasty, Hongwu (洪武), erected the 14km city wall in the 14th century. Today, this Ming city wall has become one of the most well preserved of its kind in China. Our taxi dropped us off at the West Gate, also known as Andingmen (安定門). There was a belt of public park running along the city wall where the locals engaged in all kinds of activities from dancing to playing badminton. After walking around the area for several minutes we finally found the ticket office and the stair going up to the city wall. Up on the wall we reached another network of public space where people strolled and cycled. Against the background of the cloudy sky and charcoal grey bricks, rows of crimson lanterns began to lit up as we walked towards the South Gate Yongningmen (永寧門). It turned out to be less than an hour of leisure stroll. Our two friends opted for cycling to complete the journey, while we chose to take our time to walk, take photos, and watch the city below gradually lit up.
Our taxi dropped us off at Andingmen (安定門).
Dusk had fallen upon Xian as we began our walk from Andingmen (安定門).
Signage on Xian city wall.
Xian city wall is a popular for cyclists.
Vivid lighting and red lanterns turned the city wall into a focal point of Xian at night.
Atmospheric dining in traditional houses seemed common along the city wall.
It was interesting to watch the busy street scenes as we walked.
Traditional architectural style is still commonly used for restaurants and hotels in Xian.
After slightly less than an hour of walk, we finally reached the archery tower of the South Gate Yongningmen (永寧門).
Archery Tower of the South Gate Yongningmen (永寧門)
Man played with his kid in front of the flood light of the Archery Tower .
The South Gate Yongningmen (永寧門) is perfectly aligned with the Bell Tower.
The South Gate Yongningmen (永寧門).
Closer up of the Archery Tower of the South Gate Yongningmen (永寧門).
Descending down the South Gate Yongningmen (永寧門).
The South Gate Yongningmen (永寧門).
Looking back at the Archery Tower from the South Gate Yongningmen (永寧門).
We walked through the South Gate Yongningmen (永寧門) to enter the city centre. We ended up having a fast food dinner and finished the day early. We needed time to pack our stuff and get ready for our morning flight the next day to Jiuzhaigou (九寨沟).
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Our posts on 2016 Xian and Jiuzhaigou:
DAY 1 – NIGHT ARRIVAL, Xian, China
DAY 2 – QIN EMPEROR’S TERRACOTTA ARMY, near Xian, China
DAY 2 – BIG WILD GOOSE PAGODA (大雁塔), Xian, China
DAY 3 – HAN YANG LING MAUSOLEUM, Xian, China
DAY 3 – SHAANXI HISTORY MUSEUM, Xian, China
DAY 3 – GREAT MOSQUE (西安大清真寺) AND MUSLIM QUARTER, Xian, China
DAY 3 – MING CITY WALL, Xian, China
DAY 4 -FIRST GLIMPSE OF JIUZHAIGOU (九寨溝), Sichuan (四川), China
DAY 5 – ARROW BAMBOO LAKE (箭竹海), PANDA LAKE (熊貓海) & FIVE FLOWER LAKE (五花海), Jiuzhaigou (九寨溝), China
DAY 5 – PEARL SHOAL FALLS (珍珠灘瀑布), MIRROR LAKE (鏡海) & NUORILANG FALLS (諾日朗瀑布), Jiuzhaigou (九寨溝), China
DAY 5 – LONG LAKE (長海) & FIVE COLOURS LAKE (五彩池), Jiuzhaigou (九寨溝), China
DAY 5 – RHINOCEROS LAKE (犀牛海), TIGER LAKE (老虎海) & SHUZHENG VILLAGE (樹正寨), Jiuzhaigou (九寨溝), China
DAY 6 – ASCEND TO FIVE COLOUR POND (五彩池), Huanglong (黃龍), Sichuan (四川), China
DAY 7 – FAREWELL JIUZHAIGOU & XIAN, China
LONG MUSEUM (龍美術館), West Bund, Shanghai, China

Before our trip, a number of people recommended the Long Museum to us. Designed by a focal firm Atelier Deshaus, the Long Museum is a fine piece of contemporary architecture that has been featured in many design magazines. Despite our tight schedule in Shanghai, we managed to squeeze in two hours to visit this contemporary art museum at the West Bund of Xuhui. The riverside promenade of Xuhui district hosts a number of cultural establishments like the Long Museum, and also occasional art events such as the West Bund Biennale of Architecture and Contemporary Art. Along with upcoming developments such as the movie production and entertainment complex – Dream Centre, the once industrial area West Bund of Xuhui is gradually transforming into a lively cultural corridor by the Huangpu River. The privately-owned art museum near the former Expo ground stands as a proud revelation of Shanghai’s ambitions to boost the local contemporary art scenes.
We arrived at Long Museum in the mid afternoon. Dozens or so visitors were busy photographing the cherry blossoms in front of the museum. Others were having fun taking seflies against the backdrop of a well preserved industrial structures, which has now become a significant feature outside the museum. At the museum’s rear side facing the riverside promenade, locals were enjoying themselves playing badminton and skateboards. We entered the museum through its main entrance at the side. Once inside, we were immediately captivated by the high vaulted space of the main exhibition hall. There is not a single white wall in the museum. With high volume spaces and half-vaulted ceiling, the museum is like a minimalist concrete cathedral, offering visitors diverse spatial experience, and a sleek atmosphere and backdrop for showcasing contemporary art.
Exhibited in galleries and a number of international biennale around the globe, Danish-Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson is a prominent figure in the art world. Eliasson creates interesting art installations that often engage spectators through the use of basic elements like water, light or shadows. We were delighted to see Eliasson’s solo show at the Long Museum. Playful reflections, shadows, and lighting effects of his pieces did a fine job engaging spectators in multiple ways. We spent about two hours seeing Eliasson’s exhibition until the museum was about to close its doors. After the visit, we strolled along the riverside promenade to take in the relax atmosphere.
Visitors gathered in front of Long Museum to photograph the fine cherry blossoms.
Concrete structure from an old factory is preserved as an exterior feature of Long Museum.
The old structure becomes a local favorite for portrait photography.
The old industrial structure create a beautiful scene of shadows and textures.
Visitors walking beyond the old industrial structure.
A visitor and dramatic sunlight casting onto the vaulted concrete wall.
Main exhibition space of Long Museum.
Olafur Eliasson’s installation art took over every wall and corner of Long Museum.
Spectators having fun with their own reflection at one of Eliasson’s piece.
Mirrors are used in many of Eliasson’s pieces.
A sphere that allows visitors to enter is a popular piece.
Moving shadows and interesting reflections was a result from lighting effect and a suspended ring.
Elegant shadows of an abstract installation.
Visitor and the semi-vaulted ceiling.
Visitors queuing for a glimpse of their own reflection at one of Eliasson’s piece.
A mother photographing her daughter from the other end of the piece.
A room with alternating lighting that changed the hues of wall decorations from black and white to rainbow colours.
The passageway between the old industrial structure and the museum facade made of pour concrete and expanded metal.
Locals having a good time with badminton and skateboards at the back of Long Museum.
The riverside promenade behind Long Museum links the museum with other cultural establishments at the West Bund of Xuhui.
***
Read other posts on Shanghai 2016:
0.0 SHANGHAI, 2016
1.0 SUZHOU MUSEUM, Suzhou, China
2.0 HUMBLE ADMINISTRATOR’S GARDEN, Suzhou, China
3.0 LION GROVE GARDEN, Suzhou, China
4.0 SOUP DUMPLINGS AND MORNING STROLL, Shanghai, China
5.0 ROCKBUND, Shanghai, China
6.0 M50, Shanghai, China
7.0 1933 SHANGHAI (老場坊) , Shanghai, China
8.0 POLY GRAND THEATRE (上海保利大劇院), Shanghai, China
9.0 FORMER FRENCH CONCESSION, Shanghai, China
10.0 POWER STATION OF ART, Shanghai, China
11.0 LONG MUSEUM (龍美術館), West Bund, Shanghai, China
12.0 THE BUND (外灘) AT NIGHT, Shanghai, China
13.0 TIANZIFANG (田子坊), Shanghai, China
14.0 CHINESE HAND PRINTED BLUE NANKEEN GALLERY (藍印花布博物館), Shanghai, China
15.0 LUJIAZUI (陸家嘴) OF PUDONG (浦東), Shanghai, China
SUZHOU MUSEUM, Suzhou, China

Before we kicked off our brief spring break in Shanghai, we took a high speed train to visit Suzhou, Shanghai’s neighboring city famous for its picturesque canals and historical gardens about 100km northwest of Shanghai. Today, Suzhou is the second largest city in Jiangsu Province, and is only half an hour of high speed train away from Shanghai. Its gigantic train station is conveniently located by the Waicheng River just north of the old city. Across Waicheng River, the north gate and the ancient city wall reminded visitors its 2500 years of history. The full blossoms of peach flowers along the river promenade signified the pleasant spring season south of Yangtze River.
We crossed a bridge to enter the old city, and continued to headed southeast towards Suzhou’s tourist heartland, the area around Humble Ambassador’s Garden. Just before reaching Humble Ambassador’s Garden, we decided to first check out Suzhou Museum. Designed by architect I. M. Pei, the museum is a pleasant destination to have better understanding about the ancient city. Borrowing design motifs, colour palette and planning strategies from the local architecture, Suzhou Museum expresses a contemporary atmosphere with touches of the local heritage. At the heart of the complex, the central courtyard maintained the spirit of a Suzhou garden, with water ponds, pine trees, and a contemporary reinterpretation of Suzhou artificial mountains.
The collections in the Suzhou Museum ranged from artifacts to historical paintings. We were more interested in the architecture itself, from its minimalist rock garden to its interior water feature where a prominent staircase connected all floors. After a brief tour of the building, we exited the museum at a side entrance leading to a well preserved historical garden complex. The complex belonged to Prince Zhong of Taiping Heavenly Kingdom, a state that ruled part of China in the mid 19th century. By the time we exited the complex onto the main pedestrian street, we were only a stone throw away from the entrance into Humble Ambassador’s Garden.
High speed rail links Suzhou to Shanghai in only half an hour.
Suzhou Railway Station stands at the opposite to the city’s old north gate.
Peach and plum flowers greeted us outside Suzhou Railway Station.
Inside Suzhou Museum, we were soon attracted by these huge vine plants that dominated the trellis of a courtyard.
The giant vines.
Well lit corridors connect all exhibition rooms in the museum.
Within the museum complex, the central courtyard and its reflective pool often serve as a visual focus beyond the windows.
This magnificent landscape painting in the garden is made of various thin sheets of rocks. The layering of the mountain-like stones and its reflections make a perfect scenery for the garden, presenting a twist to the traditional Chinese gardens.
The simple geometry and the elegant aesthetic of the building were greatly inspired by the regional tradition of architecture.
Feature stair in the museum.
Feature stair with the mini water fall beyond.
Feature stair in the museum.
Skylights were used in a number of exhibition halls to provide soft ambient lighting.
The pleasant main hallway where visitors come and exit the museum.
A stage for Chinese opera in the former Prince Zhong Complex.
Decorative planting, rock display and natural light in small courtyards at Prince Zhong’s Complex.
The front hall of Prince Zhong Complex opens directly to the main pedestrian streets.
***
Read other posts on Shanghai 2016:
0.0 SHANGHAI, 2016
1.0 SUZHOU MUSEUM, Suzhou, China
2.0 HUMBLE ADMINISTRATOR’S GARDEN, Suzhou, China
3.0 LION GROVE GARDEN, Suzhou, China
4.0 SOUP DUMPLINGS AND MORNING STROLL, Shanghai, China
5.0 ROCKBUND, Shanghai, China
6.0 M50, Shanghai, China
7.0 1933 SHANGHAI (老場坊) , Shanghai, China
8.0 POLY GRAND THEATRE (上海保利大劇院), Shanghai, China
9.0 FORMER FRENCH CONCESSION, Shanghai, China
10.0 POWER STATION OF ART, Shanghai, China
11.0 LONG MUSEUM (龍美術館), West Bund, Shanghai, China
12.0 THE BUND (外灘) AT NIGHT, Shanghai, China
13.0 TIANZIFANG (田子坊), Shanghai, China
14.0 CHINESE HAND PRINTED BLUE NANKEEN GALLERY (藍印花布博物館), Shanghai, China
15.0 LUJIAZUI (陸家嘴) OF PUDONG (浦東), Shanghai, China
XIANGSHAN CAMPUS (象山中心校區), China Academy of Art (中國美術學院), Hangzhou, China

The bus ride from Huangshan to Hangzhou took about 4 hours. By the time we checked into our hotel near West Lake in Hangzhou it was already dinner time. After a good night of rest for our legs, in the morning we decided to visit the Xiangshan Campus (象山中心校區) of China Academy of Art (中國美術學院) in the outskirt of Hangzhou. We grabbed a Chinese pork bun and walked to the waterfront promenade by West Lake. We stood by the waterlilies and finished our simple breakfast. Soon we walked over to the nearby bus stop and took a local bus heading to the direction of Xiangshan. The entire bus journey took a little over half a hour. Contemporary architecture was the reason for our visit to Xiangshan, and was our only major activity planned for our brief stay in Hangzhou.
Wang Shu (王澍), dean of the School of Architecture at China Academy of Art, is one of the most well known Chinese architects. In 1997, he and his wife Lu Wenyu (陸文宇) found their firm Amateur Architecture Studio. The couple had been teaching at the School of Architecture at China Academy of Art ever since 2000. Based in Hangzhou, their works represent a unique critical regionalism, deriving their own architectural character with contemporary reinterpretation of local heritage. Their most famous works include the Ningbo Museum (2008), and Xiangshan Campus of China Academy of Art near Hangzhou (2007). After receiving a number of international awards for their effort on redefining contemporary Chinese architecture, in 2012 Wang Shu was rewarded with the Pritzker Prize, which considered to be the highest award in the international architectural industry.
In 1928, China Academy of Art was founded in Hangzhou. It is the oldest and most famous art school in China. Today the academy has two campuses in Hangzhou, one right by West Lake at city centre, and a newer one in Xiangshan, at the southwest outskirt of the city. Wang Shu and Lu Wenyu began the design of Xiangshan Campus in 2002. Many buildings, including a library, a gallery, 6 school buildings, 2 studio buildings, 2 bridges, etc., were completed in 2004. The campus continued to expand until today, and has undoubtedly become one of the most influential projects of Amateur Architecture Studio. The campus presents a good example of Wang and Lu’s design ideology of capturing the spirit of the place and reinventing the Chinese architectural traditions into contemporary uses. Many buildings at Xiangshan were actually built in traditional construction methods, despite the use of modern materials such as glass and metal. Old roof tiles were salvaged from all over the province of Zhejiang and reused at Xiangshan as shading device and wall cladding.
We spent about three hours wandering around the campus, visited about half a dozen of buildings before heading back to the city.
Reclaimed material is always a major component in Wang’s and Lu’s projects. At Xiangshan, reclaimed roof tiles and wood panels can be seen all over.
Courtyards, a essential component in traditional Chinese architecture, also have a vital role at Xiangshan as much of student life happen in these enclosed open spaces.
A peek into the sculpture hall.
Footbridges connect many buildings in Xiangshan. This is one of the interestingly designed pedestrian bridge that crosses a small canal, and has been temporarily turned into an open air exhibition space for students’ art pieces.
Old roof tiles from all over the province are reused here as horizontal shading device.
The library complex is consisted of two buildings with contrasting facade treatment.
Ramp is a major design element in the campus. In some cases, the upper levels can be accessible for scooters and bikes.
Despite the overall brutal finishes and craftsmanship, Wang’s and Lu’s design concepts have successfully created interesting architecture out of traditional Chinese architecture and Modernist design approaches.
In a number of the buildings, exterior circulation has become a main facade feature. Though in some cases, the circulation route would be in conflict with window openings.
Depending on the slope, some of the exterior circulation route are actually steps.
The wood and stone guesthouse and restaurant building is a recent addition to the campus.
The interplay of walls cladded with different stones is covered by a large roof. With a natural touch, the underside of the roof is dominated by the heavy use of timber trusses and bamboo mats.
There is a water pond in front of the School of Architecture area, encompassing three major buildings with distinct architectural treatments.
Similar to the Ningbo Museum, reclaimed bricks and tiles are used to clad outer walls.
Like traditional Chinese architecture, tranquil courtyards give another dimension to the buildings in Xiangshan, where the boundary between exterior and interior remains loose.
Irregular opening on concrete walls represents another design approach, framing unique views for users in the buildings.
Reclaimed wood panels serve well as a backdrop for sculpture display.
Distinct brise-soleil of the two School of Architecture buildings: concrete vertical fins and masonry cross openings, create a coherent atmosphere for the exterior forecourt where the flanking contrasting textures complement each other.
Entrance to one of the School of Architecture building: Bricks are used to form a perforated skin. The word “TOMORROW” is highlighted on the wall surface by filling in the wall openings with glass bottles, like a pin art effect.
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Read other posts on 2015 Anhui and Hangzhou
1. History, Scenery, Architecture, 5-day tour of Anhui and Hangzhou, China
2. Laojie (Old Street), Tunxi, China
3. Hongcun, Anhui, China
4. Xidi, Anhui, China
5. West Sea Canyon, Huangshan, Anhui, China
6. From Monkey Watching the Sea to Welcome Pine, Huangshan, Anhui, China
7. Xiangshan Campus, China Academy of Art, Hangzhou, China
8. Folk Art Museum, Xiangshan Campus, China Academy of Art, Hangzhou, China