祇園 | Blue Lapis Road

DAY 2 (5/6): SFERA BUILDING (スフェラ・ビル), SHIRKAWA GION (祇園白川), KAMO RIVER (鴨川) & DOWNTOWN, Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.04

Weather forecast predicted a rainy afternoon. We planned to spend the rest of the day in Downtown Kyoto on the other side of Kamo River (鴨川). Before crossing the river, we went to check out Sfera Building, a three storey modern architecture housing design, craft, art, and cuisine all under one roof. Unlike the timber houses in much of Gion (祇園), Swedish architect Claesson Koivisto Rune used titanium panels with perforated leaf patterns as cladding for Sfera Building. These perforated panels echo the sunscreens in traditional Japanese houses made of wood, bamboo and rice paper. In Sfera, there were fine furniture and housewares on display, some were made by local craftsmen and artists. We explored all floors of the building, and exited through its back door on Yamato Oji Dori. Just a block south we came to the picturesque Shirakawa Minami Dori (白川南通) at Shirakawa Gion (祇園白川), where the clear Shirakawa Canal passed in front of a row of well-preserved machiya houses (町家). Many of these old houses were accessible via bridges. We entered Pass the Baton, a trendy lifestyle shop that transformed a 120 year timber machiya house into a hub for the young generation. A number of the locals were dressed in traditional kimonos, matching perfectly well with the historical ambience of the machiya houses.

We crossed the Kamo River (鴨川) via Shijo Bridge, which continued as Shijo Dori into the heart of Downtown Kyoto. In summer, the banks of Kamo River is packed with dining patios and music performers. It was too cold in early December for these outdoor activities to take place. Nevertheless, the pleasant riverbanks were occupied with all kinds of people. A few waterbirds were walking in shallow water hunting for fish. On the bank, a group of teenage girls in colourful kimonos were taking selfies. An angler walked to the middle of the river and released his hook with his rod. We watched him for a few minutes, and suddenly he pulled his rod and acted like caught something on his hook. All eyes along the banks, including ours from the bridge, were on the angler. He didn’t disappoint us and managed to catch a fish that was at least two feet long.

As we walked west along the busy Shijo Dori (四条通) into the city, it soon began to rain. We went into Fujii Daimaru (藤井大丸), one of the many department stores on Shijo Dori. Despite smallest in size, with its latest fashion selections, Fujii Daimaru is popular with young shoppers. We walked along Shijo Dori as far as the intersection of Karasuma Dori (烏丸通), reaching a shopping centre called Cocon Karasuma (古今烏丸), which was a renovation work designed by architect Kengo Kuma (隈研吾) back in 2004. Kengo Kuma superimposes a 21st century glass facade laminated with a film of woodcut block patterns of clouds common in the Edo Period onto the original building elevation dated back to 1938. The sky was getting dark and we decided to grab a quick bite. Just before all vendor shutters were down, we entered Nishiki Market (錦市場), a famous covered market street selling all kinds of snacks from sushi to Japanese pickles. We picked up some tofu doughnuts at Konnamonja, and some local jumbo chestnuts before heading back to our hotel for a brief break prior to our dinner reservation at Yakitori Hitomi (焼創彩鳥家人見).

The titanium screen with leaf patterns of Sfera Building by Swedish architectural practice Claesson Koivisto Rune.

The design display on the top floor of Sfera Building.

The sleek bench at the back entrance at Sfera.

Back facade of Sfera Building at Yamato Oji Don.

The tranquil Shirakawa Canal at Gion (祇園白川)

Young women in traditional kimonos at Shirakawa Gion (祇園白川)

Couple in traditional clothings taking photos Shirakawa Gion (祇園白川)

A touch of heritage in the interior design at Pass the Baton, Shirakawa Gion (祇園白川)

Kamo River (鴨川) is a popular public space in Kyoto.

Women in kimonos taking pictures of themselves at Kamo River (鴨川).

The iconic Tohka-Saikan (東華菜館) Chinese restaurant building by the bank of Kamo River (鴨川).

An angler struggling with his catch at Kamo River (鴨川).

Our first encounter with Kamo River (鴨川) was simple and pleasant.

A man playing a three-string Shamisen (三味線) with his bachi, a Japanese plectrum.

Erizen Honten (ゑり善本店), a traditional clothing shop with a contemporary facade on Shijo.

Cocon Karasuma, an urban shopping centre designed by architect Kengo Kuma.

An atrium of Cocon Karasuma with a special pop up store of sake from Fushimi.

Covered retail street in Downtown Kyoto.

Soy vendor Konnamonja with their famous tofu doughnuts at Nishiki.

Tofu doughnuts from Konnamonja at Nishiki Market.

Local chestnut from Nishiki Market.

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January 28, 2017 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kyoto and Nara 2016, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: Architecture, ゑり善本店, bachi, Claesson Koivisto Rune, Cocon Karasuma, 烏丸, 烏丸通, 町家, 白川, 白川南通, 祇園, design, Erizen Honten, 錦市場, 藤井大丸, 隈研吾, 鴨川, Gion, Japan, Kamo, Karasuma, Kengo Kuma, Konnamonja, Kyoto, machiya, market, Nishiki, plectrum, Sfera, shamisen, Shijo, Shirakawa, Shirakawa Minami Dori, 古今烏丸, 三味線 | Leave a comment

DAY 1 (6/6): NIGHT AT KIYOMIZU-DERA (清水寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.03

As first time visitors to Kyoto, we were eager to see the autumn colours at the world famous Kiyomizu-dera (清水寺), especially when we knew that the iconic Kiyomizu Stage (清水の舞台) would undergo a major renovation starting from January 2017. It was the second last day of the season that Kiyomizu-dera opened for autumn special night viewing, and according to local weather forecast, Kyoto’s weather would turn bad in a day’s time. Without hesitation we hopped on a bus near Kitano Tenmangu and headed back to Higashiyama. We had some rest on the 45-minute bus ride. After getting off, we picked one alleyway to walk uphill. Soon we arrived at the magnificent Hokanji Yasaka Pagoda (法観寺八坂の塔). As we walked uphill, we felt like we were pilgrims going back in time, entering into a world of narrow stone alleyways, centuries-old timber houses and Buddhist buildings. Along the way, most shops were already closed, but a few souvenir and snack shops still opened to serve the night visitors of Kiyomizu-dera. Over our heads, we soon discovered a strong beam of blue light in the sky, pointing from Mount Otowa (音羽山) where the temple was situated, outwards to the infinite sky above the city. According to the official website, the light embodies the Kannon (観音)’s compassion, brightening the streets of the ancient city. For us, it was like a guidance leading us uphill. It get more crowded as we walked closer to the temple. Minutes later we arrived at the stepped plaza of Niomon Gate (仁王門). In front of the famous Saimon Gate (西門), we lined up to get our admission tickets from a temporary shelter and delightfully walked up the stair to enter the temple complex.

The autumn foliage at Kiyomizu-dera had past its peak a few days ago. Nonetheless, all visitors including us were excited to tour around the celebrated complex under the illuminations of floodlights and embellishment of the remaining autumn maples. At the main hall, we took off our shoes, paid our respect in front of the sanctuary, and admired the illuminated autumn colours down in the valley below Kiyomizu Stage. Standing 13m above the valley, the Kiyomizu Stage (清水の舞台) had been the centerpiece of the temple for centuries. Without using a single nail, the Kiyomizu Stage is made of 410 Hinoki wooden boards supported by 18 Zelkova pillars using the hole and grooves technique known as the Kakezukuri Method. From the stage, a stone path led us to the opposite side of the valley, where a large crowd gathered in front of Okunoin Hall (奥の院) looking back to admire the main hall and Kiyomizu Stage. Perched above the fire red maples, the huge roof of the main hall made of Hinoki bark and the lattice structure of Kiyomizu Stage looked gorgeously timeless, while the comet-like beam of blue light connected the temple with the glittering urban skyline beyond. The path overlooking the valley of colourful leaves then led us further away from the main hall until reaching the base of the small pagoda where we headed down to the valley. In the valley, a tree-lined path brought us all the way back to the bottom of the Kiyomizu Stage, where the adjacent Otowa waterfall (音羽の瀧) came down in three separated streams. Another crowd of visitors formed a long queue at the waterfall, waiting for their turn to drink the water with the special cup provided. As we headed to the temple exit, we passed by a mirror-like pond with magnificent reflections of autumn leaves and the orange Three-storey Pagoda above the cliff.

We were overjoyed for having such a fruitful day of sightseeing. To give this beautiful day a satisfying closure we opted for a late dinner. We walked downhill from Kiyomizu-dera, passed through Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社), and entered the lively district of Gion (祇園), the active area of traditional geisha. We picked Okaru (おかる), a small udon restaurant popular with geiko since established in 1923. We ordered two of their signature noodle bowls and felt truly grateful of finishing our wonderful first day of Kyoto.

Passing by the Hokanji Yasaka Pagoda (法観寺八坂の塔) as we headed up to Kiyomizu-dera.

Minutes later we arrived at the stepped plaza of Niomon Gate (仁王門).

In front of the famous Saimon Gate (西門), we lined up to get our admission tickets from a temporary shelter, while the beam of blue light shot up the sky behind the temple.

Stone statue in front of the Three-storey Pagoda.

Looking back out to the Three-storey Pagoda behind entering the main hall.

Visitors stepping into the timber structure of the main hall.

Inside the main hall, the sanctuary is consisted of three sections: outer, inner, and innermost. Only the outer sanctuary is open to the public.

Visitors gathered on the Kiyomizu Stage photographing the skyline of Kyoto.

The strong beam of blue light shot out from Mount Otowa behind the temple.

Behind the Kiyomizu Stage, a prominent stair led down to the Otowa waterfall.

Iconic overview of Kiyomizu Stage, main hall, autumn maples, blue light and Kyoto skyline.

The beam of blue light pointed towards Kyoto Tower in a distance.

The stair adjacent to the timber structure of the Kiyomizu Stage.

The amazing structure of Kiyomizu Stage lit up with floodlight.

Lanterns indicating special night viewing, which happens three times a year: cherry season in spring, three days of Thousand-day Pilgrimage/Special Viewing of nainaijin in the Main Hall in the summer, and the maple colours in autumn.