石川県 | Blue Lapis Road

DAY 8 (6/6): AFTERMATH OF KAGA YUZEN TORO NAGASHI (加賀友禅燈ろう流し), Kanazawa (金沢), Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), Japan, 2018.06.01

To end the magical night of Kaga Yuzen Toro Nagashi, we decided to have a bowl of local ramen. Through online research, we learnt about a popular ramen restaurant near the train station. The walk from Asano River to the station was full of surprises as we encountered groups of school children parading the streets with traditional lanterns. The entire city was turned into a festival ground.

Groups after groups of school children parading on the streets of Kanazawa during the night of Kaga Yuzen Toro Nagashi.

It was delightful to see traditional rituals are being passed down to the young generation.

Movable carts were also seen with young traditional drummers.

We passed by Kanazawa Train Station on our way to Menya Taiga (麺屋大河).

Some bloggers suggest Menya Taiga (麺屋大河) in Kanazawa offers the “best miso ramen in Japan.” That’s a rather bold statement given the uncounted numbers of ramen restaurant in Japan, each has its unique recipe and ingredients.

After a little over half an hour in the queue, we finally got into the restaurant just before 10pm.

The ramen restaurant was full of little decorations.

Menya Taiga (麺屋大河) offers shorter and thicker noodles, with an extra touch of ginger and citrus fruit in the soup on top of the typical pork bone soup.

The uni (sea urchin) ramen was a delicious seasonal ramen we ordered.

In the next morning, 2.5 hours before the main parade of the Hyakumangoku Matsuri (百万石まつり) began, we walked along the main street leading to the train station. The street would soon become the main parade venue.

Many local residences had already marked their spot on the sidewalk.

In front of Kanazawa Train Station, the Tsuzumi-mon Gate (鼓門) would serve as the symbol city gate for the annual parade of the Hyakumangoku Matsuri (百万石まつり).

Parade participants would dressed in 16th century costumes to act like the army of Lord Maeda Toshiie entering the symbolic Tsuzumi-mon Gate (鼓門).

The banner of Hyakumangoku Matsuri (百万石まつり) was hung at the entrance atrium of the train station.

At the station, we bought a few onigiri or Japanese rice balls for breakfast on the train.

Moving up to the platform of shinkansen or Japanese high-speed railway, our journey of Kanazawa and Chubu Region (Central Honshu) was coming to an end. In 2.5 hours, we would arrive in Tokyo.

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CHUBU (中部地方) 2018, Japan, 2018.05.25 – 06.03
Introduction

Day 1: Tokyo (東京)
1.1 TSUKIJI OUTER MARKET (築地場外市場)
1.2 TSUKIJI INNER MARKET (築地中央卸売市場)
1.3 MORI ART MUSEUM (森美術館), 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT & CAFE KITSUNE

Day 2: Matsumoto (松本)& Kamikochi (上高地)
2.1 MATSUMOTO CASTLE (松本城), Matsumoto (松本)
2.2 “ALL ABOUT MY LOVE”, Yayoi Kusama’s Exhibition at Matsumoto City Museum of Art (松本市美術館), Matsumoto (松本)
2.3 MATSUMOTO PERFORMING ARTS CENTER (まつもと市民芸術館), Matsumoto (松本)
2.4 FROM MATSUMOTO (松本) TO KAMIKOCHI (上高地)
2.5 ARRIVAL IN KAMIKOCHI (上高地), Chūbu-Sangaku National Park (中部山岳国立公園)

Day 3: Kamikochi (上高地)
3.1 MORNING WALK IN KAMIKOCHI (上高地), Nagano Prefecture (長野県)
3.2 DAKESAWA HIKE (岳沢), Kamikochi (上高地)

Day 4: Kamikochi (上高地) & Shirahone Onsen (白骨温泉)
4.1 TAISHO POND (大正池), Kamikochi (上高地)
4.2 RETREAT IN THE JAPANESE ALPS, Shirahone Onsen (白骨温泉)
4.3 MOMENTS OF ESCAPE, Tsuruya Ryokan (つるや旅館), Shirahone Onsen (白骨温泉)

Day 5: Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山)
5.1 CITY IN THE MOUNTAINS, Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山)
5.2 HIDA BEEF (飛騨牛), Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山)
5.3 SAKE (日本酒) BREWERIES, Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山)
5.4 YOSHIJIMA HOUSE (吉島家住宅), Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山)
5.5 HIGASHIYAMA WALKING COURSE (東山遊歩道), Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山)

Day 6: Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山), Shirakawa-go (白川郷) & Ainokura (相倉)
6.1 MIYAGAWA MORNING MARKET (宮川朝市), Hida-Takayama (飛騨高山), Gifu Prefecture (岐阜県)
6.2 OGIMACHI IN THE RAIN, Shirakawa-go (白川郷), Gifu Prefecture (岐阜県)
6.3 SOBA, TEMPLE & LOOKOUT, Shirakawa-go (白川郷)
6.4 RAINY AFTERNOON IN AINOKURA (相倉), Gokayama (五箇山)
6.5 GASSHO MINSHUKU, FLOWER BEDS & RICE PADDY FIELDS, Ainokura (相倉), Gokayama (五箇山)
6.6 CROAKING FROGS AND MOONLIGHT REFLECTIONS, Gokayama (五箇山)

Day 7: Kanazawa (金沢)
7.1 DEPARTURE IN THE RAIN, Ainokura (相倉) to Kanazawa (金沢)
7.2 A SEAFOOD PARADISE – OMICHO MARKET (近江町市場)
7.3 D T Suzuki Museum (鈴木大拙館)
7.4 Kenroku-en Garden (兼六園)
7.5 Oyama Shrine (尾山神社) and Nagamachi Samurai District (長町)
7.6 Nomura Samurai House (武家屋敷跡野村家), Nagamachi Samurai District (長町)
7.7 Sushi Ippei (一平鮨), Katamachi (片町)

Day 8: Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture (金沢, 石川県)
8.1 Iki Iki Tei (いきいき亭) and Higashide Coffee (東出珈琲店), Omicho Market (近江町市場)
8.2 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art (21世紀美術館)
8.3 Kazuemachi District (主計町茶屋街)
8.4 Higashi Chaya District (東山ひがし茶屋街)
8.5 Kaga Yuzen Toro Nagashi (加賀友禅燈ろう流し), Asano River (浅野川)
8.6 AFTERMATH OF KAGA YUZEN TORO NAGASHI (加賀友禅燈ろう流し)

Day 9 & 10: Tokyo (東京)
9.1 Marunouchi (丸の内) & Nihonbashi (日本橋)
10.1 OEDO ANTIQUE MARKET (大江戸骨董市), Tokyo Forum (東京国際フォーラム)
10.2 FARMER’S MARKET, United Nations University (東京国連大学), Aoyama (青山)

December 29, 2018 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Chubu 2018, Kanazawa | Tags: breakfast, 百万石まつり, 石川県, dinner, 金沢, 麺屋大河, Festival, Hyakumangoku, Ishikawa, Japan, Japanese, Kaga Yuzen Toro Nagashi, Kanazawa, Matsuri, menya, onigiri, railway, ramen, restaurant, rice, seafood, shinkansen, station, Taiga, train, uni, 加賀友禅燈ろう流し | Leave a comment

DAY 8 (5/6): STREAM OF LANTERNS, Kaga Yuzen Toro Nagashi (加賀友禅燈ろう流し), Asano River (浅野川), Kanazawa (金沢), Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), Japan, 2018.06.01

Hyakumangoku Matsuri (百万石まつり) is the main annual festival in Kanazawa. The three day festival commemorates the entry of Lord Maeda Toshiie into Kanazawa Castle in 1583. The main event of the festival is the Hyakumangoku Parade, which takes place on the first Saturday in June. Other festival highlights include folk dances and tea ceremonies at Kenroku-en Garden, and the romantic Kaga Yuzen Toro Nagashi held at Asano River, where 1200 traditional lanterns would be released into the water between Ume-no-Hashi Bridge (梅ノ橋) and Asanogawa Ohashi Bridge (浅野川大橋). We found out about the festival as we planned the trip, and were fortunate to be at Kanazawa at the right time to witness the Kaga Yuzen Toro Nagashi on our last day in the city.

After visiting Higashi Chaya District, we walked over to the river bank of Asano River in late afternoon.

We sat down on the river embankment near (梅ノ橋) to wait for dusk to fall.

The main ceremonial platform was brightly lit up.

As darkness fell upon, lanterns were released into the peaceful water of Asano River.

Each lantern was decorated with unique design and colours.

Soon, more lanterns came down from upper stream beyond Ume-no-Hashi Bridge (梅ノ橋) .

Asano River was slow and peaceful. Soon the water was filled with beautiful lanterns.

Staff stood at various locations in the water to “rescue” any lantern that were stuck in the river rocks.

There were speeches and drum performances at the main event platform.

The water was really slow. Sometimes the lanterns were just moving in circle.

The lanterns gradually made their way downstream towards Asanogawa Bridge (浅野川大橋).

The lanterns became more obvious and beautiful and darkness fell upon.

Lanterns slowly moved over to Asanogawa Bridge (浅野川大橋) towards the central arch.

We left the embankment and walked up to Asanogawa Bridge (浅野川大橋) for another look of the lanterns.

Built in 1922, the 54.4m stone bridge provides an elegant crossing over the Asano River. From the other side of Asanogawa Bridge (浅野川大橋), we could see the first groups of lanterns emerge from the central archway.

Nets were set up further downstream to capture the lanterns at the end of the event.

Looking backwards to Asanogawa Bridge (浅野川大橋) we could see the lanterns slowly approaching.

* * *

CHUBU (中部地方) 2018, Japan, 2018.05.25 – 06.03
Introduction

Day 1: Tokyo (東京)
1.1 TSUKIJI OUTER MARKET (築地場外市場)
1.2 TSUKIJI INNER MARKET (築地中央卸売市場)
1.3 MORI ART MUSEUM (森美術館), 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT & CAFE KITSUNE

Day 3: Kamikochi (上高地)
3.1 MORNING WALK IN KAMIKOCHI (上高地), Nagano Prefecture (長野県)
3.2 DAKESAWA HIKE (岳沢), Kamikochi (上高地)

December 27, 2018 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Chubu 2018, Kanazawa | Tags: Asano, Asanogawa, bridge, 石川県, 金沢, Ishikawa, Japan, Japanese, Kaga Yuzen Toro Nagashi, Kanazawa, Ume-no-Hashi, 加賀友禅燈ろう流し, 梅ノ橋, 浅野川, 浅野川大橋 | Leave a comment

DAY 8 (4/6): GEISHA, TEA, AND GOLD LEAF, Higashi Chaya District (東山ひがし茶屋街), Kanazawa (金沢), Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), Japan, 2018.06.01

North of the Asano River lies the Higashi Chaya District (東山ひがし茶屋街), the postcard perfect historical neighborhood that appears in all tourist brochures on Kanazawa. Pedestrian streets flanked both sides with timber row houses where geisha tea houses once flourished, the Higashi Chayagai (Eastern Teahouse Street) has become the iconic image of the old Kanazawa that every tourists love to see. Today, Higashi Chayagai is the most popular tourist area in the city. A few geisha tea houses still exist, such as the Shima and Kaikaro Teahouse, and so as many cafes, ice-cream parlours, craft and souvenir shops. Tourists are particularly interested in the local gold leaf products. Kanazawa, which literally means “gold marsh”, has been manufacturing gold leafs for 400 years. Due to the good water quality and relatively high humidity, Kanazawa is an ideal place for gold leaf production. Today, the city has become the only remaining hub of gold leaf production in Japan. Gold leaf has been used on traditional buildings, Buddhist altars, statues, glasswares, cosmetics, soaps, and even edible items like cakes and ice-cream. We weren’t particular interested in having gold leaf on our ice-cream. Instead, we did try some special types of ice-cream at Higashi Chayagai. Strolling along the historical street was pleasant under the afternoon sun, despite the pedestrian street could be slightly overcrowded with the continuous influx of tourist groups. Perhaps the upcoming three-day Hyakumangoku Matsuri Festival (百万石まつり) did attract quite a bit of tourists coming into the city. Like many other tourists, we would check out the famous Kaga Yuzen Toro Nagashi, the spectacular event at the first day of Hyakumangoku Matsuri Festival where candle lit lanterns would be placed into the Asanogawa River.

Reaching Oriental Brewing Higashiyama, the renowned brewpub of Kanazawa, signified our arrival at the geisha district of Higashi Chayagai.

Soon we arrived at an open space at the intersection of several lanes that served as a central plaza in the old neighborhood.

Many of the timber houses are very well preserved.

The wooden screens, windows, sidings, and even gas lamps provide a vintage setting to the geisha district.

The beautiful setting of Higashi Chaya District (東山ひがし茶屋街) attract tourists from all over the world.

Some visitors even come wearing the traditional kimono dresses.

Swallows construct their nests under the eaves of the timber houses along Higashi Chaya pedestrian street.

It is possible to see traditional geisha at Higashi Chaya.

Posters for the annual Hyakumangoku Matsuri Festival (百万石まつり) could be seen at Higashi Chaya. The three-day festival commemorates the arrival of Lord Maeda Toshiie in 1583.

Most wooden houses at Higashi Chaya have been converted into restaurants, cafes, tea houses and souvenir shops.

Gold leaf remains as a favorite souvenir for foreign tourists.

The sugidama (杉玉) signified our arrival at a traditional sake brewery.

We also went in Yamato to check out their soy sauce.

Soon the sun angle was getting low at Higashi Chaya.

Near the central plaza of Higashi Chaya, we stopped by an ice-cream shop for an afternoon snack.

We opted for local favours such as tofu and green tea instead of gold leaf dessert.

We walked over to the Asano River near Higashi Chaya. Organizers were busy preparing for the lantern event Kaga Yuzen Toro Nagashi.

In Kaga Yuzen Toro Nagashi, about 1200 lanterns made with Kaga Yuzen silk textiles would be released into the river.

* * *

CHUBU (中部地方) 2018, Japan, 2018.05.25 – 06.03
Introduction

Day 1: Tokyo (東京)
1.1 TSUKIJI OUTER MARKET (築地場外市場)
1.2 TSUKIJI INNER MARKET (築地中央卸売市場)
1.3 MORI ART MUSEUM (森美術館), 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT & CAFE KITSUNE

Day 3: Kamikochi (上高地)
3.1 MORNING WALK IN KAMIKOCHI (上高地), Nagano Prefecture (長野県)
3.2 DAKESAWA HIKE (岳沢), Kamikochi (上高地)

December 26, 2018 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Chubu 2018, Kanazawa | Tags: Chaya, Chayagai, 百万石まつり, 石川県, 金沢, geisha, gold, Higashi, Ishikawa, Japan, Japanese, Kanazawa, kimono, tea, 東茶屋街, 東山ひがし茶屋街 | Leave a comment

DAY 8 (3/6): PEACEFUL STROLL ALONG ASUNO RIVER, Kazuemachi District (主計町茶屋街), Kanazawa (金沢), Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), Japan, 2018.06.01

After SANAA’s 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, it was about time for us to go back in time again to Edo Japan. In Kanazawa, there are three well preserved geisha tea house districts that draw visitors from close and afar. Out of the three, Kazuemachi District (主計町茶屋街) is the smallest one and receives far less tourists than its more prominent sister Higashi Chaya. Although small in size, sleepy Kazuemachi along the peaceful Asuno River (浅野川) is a very pleasant place to wander around after lunch. Only a handful of tourists would come to check out the elegant timber houses and take in the relaxing air of this geisha distinct, despite Kazuemachi is conveniently located between Omicho Market and Higashi Chaya. After having a delicious sushi lunch at Kourin Sushi, we walked over to Kazuemachi on our way to Higashi Chaya District.

Topping the restaurant recommendations on Tripadvisor.com, the small restaurant Kourin Sushi (香りん寿司) is highly popular with foreign visitors. We made our reservations days in advance via email, otherwise, our chance of getting a table would be slim.

Kourin Sushi (香りん寿司) is slightly bigger than Sushi Ippei. It was another wonderful sushi meal in a reasonable price.

Kazuemachi is pleasantly located along the waterfront of Asuno River (浅野川).

Approaching from the west, the elegant Nakanohashi Bridge (中の橋) signified our arrival at the Kazuemachi District (主計町茶屋街).

Near Nakanohashi Bridge, a small park named Ryokusui-en ( 主計町緑水苑) also marks the beginning of Kazuemachi. Inside the park, a bit of the former castle moat has been preserved.

Kazuemachi was peaceful and sleepy in early afternoon. We walked on the riverside path for a bit.

The air was relaxing and we hardly saw any people, except occasional locals passing by, including a few high school kids riding on their bikes.

The back lane of Kazuemachi away from the river was even more peaceful.

Posters on the walls of the timber houses reminded us the sense of traditional Japan at Kazuemachi.

We passed by the administration building of Kazuemachi District in the back lanes.

At the end of the lane a small stepped path named 暗がり坂, or the Slope of Darkness brought us to a small shrine on the hill.

A small Inari Shrine (久保市稲荷社) awaited us at the top of the stepped path.

Returned down to the Kazuemachi District, we saw a poster of the Hyakumangoku Matsuri (百万石まつり), the three-day festival that commemorates entry of the Lord Maeda Toshiie into Kanazawa in 1583. We were lucky to have the chance to check out the pretext of the festival known as Kaga Yuzen Toro Nagashi when floating lanterns are placed into the Asuno River later that night.

* * *

CHUBU (中部地方) 2018, Japan, 2018.05.25 – 06.03
Introduction

Day 1: Tokyo (東京)
1.1 TSUKIJI OUTER MARKET (築地場外市場)
1.2 TSUKIJI INNER MARKET (築地中央卸売市場)
1.3 MORI ART MUSEUM (森美術館), 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT & CAFE KITSUNE

Day 3: Kamikochi (上高地)
3.1 MORNING WALK IN KAMIKOCHI (上高地), Nagano Prefecture (長野県)
3.2 DAKESAWA HIKE (岳沢), Kamikochi (上高地)

December 11, 2018 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Chubu 2018, Kanazawa | Tags: 百万石まつり, 石川県, 緑水苑, 金沢, 香りん寿司, geisha, Hyakumangoku, Ishikawa, Japan, Japanese, Kaga Yuzen Toro Nagashi, Kanazawa, Kazue-Machi, Kazuemachi, Kourin, Matsuri, Nakanohashi, Ryokusui-en, sushi, tea, 暗がり坂, 浅野川, 中の橋, 主計町茶屋街 | Leave a comment

DAY 8 (2/6): ARCHITECTURE OF THE 21st CENTURY, 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art (21世紀美術館), Kanazawa (金沢), Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), Japan, 2018.06.01

For architects and designers, the single most important reason coming to Kanazawa is perhaps to visit the contemporary art museum just across the street from Kenroku-en Garden. Designed by Pritzker Prize awarded firm SANAA under Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa and opened in 2004, the unique 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art (21世紀美術館) is one of the most widely published contemporary architecture in Japan during the 2000’s. Staying low as a single storey building, the circular building aims to minimize its impact to the surrounding landscape. Exhibition galleries, library, lecture hall, workshops, offices, lobbies, and courtyards are housed in a huge circular building fully cladded with glass at its circumference. Given we have seen the architecture in design magazines and Internet websites throughout the years, SANAA’s famous museum in Kanazawa is like a friend that we have never met. Since the museum would get crowded with its popularity not just for tourists but also local visitors coming for workshops and cultural events, we made the effort to arrive before the facility’s opening time.

With multiple functions configured within a circular plan with a diameter of 112.5m, the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art (21世紀美術館) is a unique piece of architecture accessible from all four directions.

The outer facade is entirely covered with full height glazing to express a sense of welcome and transparency for visitors.

Outside the circular building, there are a number of outdoor art installations erected around the museum.

Perhaps inspired by the building form, the outdoor art installations are also organic or circular in form.

Before entering the museum, we walked around the building once to check out the art installations as well as the building itself.

Workshops and other common areas lined along the circumference of the museum building.

Just like many tourist attractions in Japan, the famous museum is also popular with school kids.

We managed to get our admission tickets without much queuing minutes after the museum opened its doors.

The first thing we did was to find a locker to store our bags so that we could enjoy a carefree visit.

Along the curved glazed facade, there were a number of gathering spaces of different sizes available, perhaps catered for different programme.

Everything in the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art is clean, minimal and neutral in colour.

Photography was prohibited at indoor exhibitions. At the centre of the building, a glazed walkway passed through a courtyard dominated by a beautiful archway made of green wall.

In the glazed walkway, we could have a glimpse of the interesting art installation on the roof.

The Swimming Pool by Leandro Erlich is the most famous art installation in the museum.

The piece is accessible from both the Ground and Basement levels. From the Ground level, spectators can look down and see the visitors in the basement level through a shallow level of water, as if looking looking into a real swimming pool.

From the basement level, spectators find themselves in a pool like environment as if walking at the bottom of a swimming pool.

The water effect appears in the most spectacular fashion when the sun is out from above.

* * *

CHUBU (中部地方) 2018, Japan, 2018.05.25 – 06.03
Introduction

Day 1: Tokyo (東京)
1.1 TSUKIJI OUTER MARKET (築地場外市場)
1.2 TSUKIJI INNER MARKET (築地中央卸売市場)
1.3 MORI ART MUSEUM (森美術館), 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT & CAFE KITSUNE

Day 3: Kamikochi (上高地)
3.1 MORNING WALK IN KAMIKOCHI (上高地), Nagano Prefecture (長野県)
3.2 DAKESAWA HIKE (岳沢), Kamikochi (上高地)

December 9, 2018 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Chubu 2018, Kanazawa | Tags: 21世紀美術館, Architecture, art, circle, contemporary, 石川県, Erlich, 金沢, Ishikawa, Japan, Japanese, Kanazawa, Kazuyo, Leandro, museum, Nishizawa, pool, Ryue, SANAA, Sejima, swimming | Leave a comment

DAY 8 (1/6): CHIRASHI & COFFEE, Iki Iki Tei (いきいき亭) and Higashide Coffee (東出珈琲店), Omicho Market (近江町市場), Kanazawa (金沢), Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), Japan, 2018.06.01

Kanazawa is a foodie’s paradise if fresh seafood is your cup of tea. Staying near Omicho allowed us to sample daily catches from the Sea of Japan as soon as we stepped out the hotel door in early morning. There are a number of seafood restaurants in the market, both on the ground and upper floors. For a special seafood breakfast, we chose Iki Iki Tei (いきいき亭), a tiny and popular sushi restaurant near one of the market entrances.

We arrived at the door of Iki Iki Tei (いきいき亭) right at 7am when it opened.

Fugu (河豚), a kind of puffer fish, is an exotic Japanese dish not everyone is dare to try because of the toxins in the fish.

The Japanese à la carte menu is displayed on the side wall.

For most tourists, a chirashi (assorted local sashimi on sushi rice) don is the most popular option.

Everything we needed for a tasty sashimi meal were available on the two tiered counter.

Behind the stack of dishes stood the sushi chef busy preparing the dishes and don bowls for each customer around the counter.

Thank you and appreciation notes from customers were displayed allover the restaurant.

The chirashi don was a tasty sashimi collection of local catches.

Below the dish of sashimi was a bowl of sushi rice with seaweed and pickled vegetables.

The chirashi don also came with a bowl of fish miso soup.

Apart from chirashi don, we also ordered sushi and sashimi from the à la carte menu.

Out of the snow crab season, other crabs from the Ishikawa Prefecture also worth trying.

After our sushi dinner, we walked to the nearby Higashide Coffee (東出珈琲店) for a cup of aromatic coffee to officially start the day.

The roasting machine and coffee aroma from Higashide Coffee made us impossible to resist.

Higashide Coffee offers professional filtered coffee with beans from all over the world. Their delicious cheese cake is also a must try.

The decor of Higashide Coffee was warm and homey, with touches of Western influences and colourful stained glasses.

* * *

CHUBU (中部地方) 2018, Japan, 2018.05.25 – 06.03
Introduction

Day 1: Tokyo (東京)
1.1 TSUKIJI OUTER MARKET (築地場外市場)
1.2 TSUKIJI INNER MARKET (築地中央卸売市場)
1.3 MORI ART MUSEUM (森美術館), 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT & CAFE KITSUNE

Day 3: Kamikochi (上高地)
3.1 MORNING WALK IN KAMIKOCHI (上高地), Nagano Prefecture (長野県)
3.2 DAKESAWA HIKE (岳沢), Kamikochi (上高地)

December 8, 2018 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Chubu 2018, Kanazawa | Tags: いきいき亭, breakfast, cafe, Chirashi, coffee, 石川県, don, 金沢, 近江町市場, Higashide, Iki Iki Tei, Ikiikitei, Ishikawa, Japan, Japanese, Kanazawa, market, Omicho, sashimi, sushi, 東出珈琲店 | Leave a comment

DAY 7 (6/7): THE SUBTLE BEAUTY OF A WARRIOR’S REFUGE, Nomura Samurai House (武家屋敷跡野村家), Nagamachi Samurai District (長町), Kanazawa (金沢), Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), Japan, 2018.05.31

We wandered around Nagamachi (長町) on narrow lanes flanked both sides by yellow earth walls. We slowly found our way to Nomura Samurai House and arrived at the house’s forecourt about an hour before its closing time. Once we took off our shoes, we were free to walk around the former samurai house. It was hard to imagine that such a tranquil complex with a picturesque garden and tea house was actually the home of a powerful samurai (warrior official who served the feudal lord) in the Edo Period. In the 16th century, Nomura Denbei Nobusada, an official of the first feudal lord of the Kaga Domain Toshiie Maeda, was assigned with the Nomura Family House. 12 generations had passed until the 19th century when the Nomura lost their property during the Meiji Restoration. It was the historical moment of transition when the samurai system quickly became obsoleted against rapid modernization of Japan. A business man and shipowner named Kubo Hikobei bought the house in mid 20th century. He restored the garden and house and was responsible for several alterations, which included adding a tea house. The focal point of the Nomura Samurai House was undoubtedly the small garden at the back of the house. Stone lanterns, stepping stones, pine trees, a small waterfall, a tranquil water pond, and several curious koi fish form a beautiful picture to welcome visitors and exemplify the essence of traditional Japanese gardens. Journal of Japanese Gardening even claims that the small Nomura garden is one of the top three gardens in the entire nation. While judging beauty is purely subjective to the eye, the layering of natural scenes and careful arrangement of the verandas, pathways, stepping stones and stone bridges would definitely slow down the pace of visitors. Only with patience and a peaceful heart could one fully appreciates the carefully configured beauty of the garden at Nomura.

After a path made of large stepping stones, a humble entrance welcomed all visitors at the entrance garden.

Prominently displayed at the foyer was a samurai armour.

The painted screen doors at the tatami drawing room were quite eye-catching.

Japanese cypress wood, rosewood, ebony, paulownia wood, etc were used for different functions inside the house.

The family altar is lavishly decorated with gold paint and leaves. Kanazawa has been a famous place for gold leaf manufacturing for over 400-years.

The Japanese is almost a synonym to fine craftsmanship. All nails in the Nomura House are carefully kept out of sight.

At the back garden, trees and shrubs of different sizes provide a layered backdrop to the stone lantern.

The boundary of garden and architecture almost disappears. Walking or sitting at the wooden veranda would make one forget all the troubles.

Irregular stepping stones, rectangular stone bridges, and the smooth wooden veranda allow spectators to appreciate the beauty of the garden at his/her own pace.

A plinth like water basic reveals a certain contemporary charm of minimalism. Gentle ripples and the sound of the dripping water create an almost spiritual effect to the visitor experience.

At the end of the veranda, we found our way into another small outdoor space and a stair up to the tea house.

The transitional space between the garden and the stair to the tea house is another masterpiece of landscape design.

Before one reaches the stair up to the tea house, a small water feature reminds visitors of the purity and vitality of water.

The outdoor spaces at Nomura Samurai House are full of beautiful surprises.

A large variety of bamboo, timber and stones have been used to create a rich palette of textures.

Just like many tea houses in Japan, the tiny tea house at Nomura Samurai House is an artwork in itself.

From the tea house, the lush-green vegetation of the garden defines the ambience.

Before leaving Nomura Samurai House, a display bonsai reminded us the beauty of many traditional Japanese art did require tons of patience, techniques, care and imagination to maintain. What might seem to be a simple pot plant was in reality had gone through decades of care and subtle alterations.

* * *

CHUBU (中部地方) 2018, Japan, 2018.05.25 – 06.03
Introduction

Day 1: Tokyo (東京)
1.1 TSUKIJI OUTER MARKET (築地場外市場)
1.2 TSUKIJI INNER MARKET (築地中央卸売市場)
1.3 MORI ART MUSEUM (森美術館), 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT & CAFE KITSUNE

Day 3: Kamikochi (上高地)
3.1 MORNING WALK IN KAMIKOCHI (上高地), Nagano Prefecture (長野県)
3.2 DAKESAWA HIKE (岳沢), Kamikochi (上高地)

November 9, 2018 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Chubu 2018, Kanazawa | Tags: Architecture, bonsai, clan, 石川県, Denbei, Edo, 金沢, 長町, garden, Hikobei, home, house, Ishikawa, Japan, Japanese, Kubo, lantern, Maeda, museum, Nagamachi, Nobusada, Nomura, samurai, Toshiie | Leave a comment

Blue Lapis Road ultramarinus – beyond the sea

Posts tagged “石川県”

DAY 8 (6/6): AFTERMATH OF KAGA YUZEN TORO NAGASHI (加賀友禅燈ろう流し), Kanazawa (金沢), Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), Japan, 2018.06.01

DAY 8 (5/6): STREAM OF LANTERNS, Kaga Yuzen Toro Nagashi (加賀友禅燈ろう流し), Asano River (浅野川), Kanazawa (金沢), Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), Japan, 2018.06.01

DAY 8 (4/6): GEISHA, TEA, AND GOLD LEAF, Higashi Chaya District (東山ひがし茶屋街), Kanazawa (金沢), Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), Japan, 2018.06.01

DAY 8 (3/6): PEACEFUL STROLL ALONG ASUNO RIVER, Kazuemachi District (主計町茶屋街), Kanazawa (金沢), Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), Japan, 2018.06.01

DAY 8 (2/6): ARCHITECTURE OF THE 21st CENTURY, 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art (21世紀美術館), Kanazawa (金沢), Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), Japan, 2018.06.01

DAY 8 (1/6): CHIRASHI & COFFEE, Iki Iki Tei (いきいき亭) and Higashide Coffee (東出珈琲店), Omicho Market (近江町市場), Kanazawa (金沢), Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), Japan, 2018.06.01

DAY 7 (6/7): THE SUBTLE BEAUTY OF A WARRIOR’S REFUGE, Nomura Samurai House (武家屋敷跡野村家), Nagamachi Samurai District (長町), Kanazawa (金沢), Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), Japan, 2018.05.31

Blue Lapis Road ultramarinus – beyond the sea

Posts tagged “石川県”

DAY 8 (6/6): AFTERMATH OF KAGA YUZEN TORO NAGASHI (加賀友禅燈ろう流し), Kanazawa (金沢), Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), Japan, 2018.06.01

DAY 8 (5/6): STREAM OF LANTERNS, Kaga Yuzen Toro Nagashi (加賀友禅燈ろう流し), Asano River (浅野川), Kanazawa (金沢), Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), Japan, 2018.06.01

DAY 8 (4/6): GEISHA, TEA, AND GOLD LEAF, Higashi Chaya District (東山ひがし茶屋街), Kanazawa (金沢), Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), Japan, 2018.06.01

DAY 8 (3/6): PEACEFUL STROLL ALONG ASUNO RIVER, Kazuemachi District (主計町茶屋街), Kanazawa (金沢), Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), Japan, 2018.06.01

DAY 8 (2/6): ARCHITECTURE OF THE 21st CENTURY, 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art (21世紀美術館), Kanazawa (金沢), Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), Japan, 2018.06.01

DAY 8 (1/6): CHIRASHI & COFFEE, Iki Iki Tei (いきいき亭) and Higashide Coffee (東出珈琲店), Omicho Market (近江町市場), Kanazawa (金沢), Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), Japan, 2018.06.01

DAY 7 (6/7): THE SUBTLE BEAUTY OF A WARRIOR’S REFUGE, Nomura Samurai House (武家屋敷跡 野村家), Nagamachi Samurai District (長町), Kanazawa (金沢), Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), Japan, 2018.05.31

DAY 7 (6/7): THE SUBTLE BEAUTY OF A WARRIOR’S REFUGE, Nomura Samurai House (武家屋敷跡野村家), Nagamachi Samurai District (長町), Kanazawa (金沢), Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), Japan, 2018.05.31