清水寺 | Blue Lapis Road

DAY 2 (2/6): KIYOMIZU DERA (清水寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.04

The Kiyomizu-dera in early morning offered quite a big contrast compared to our previous night visit. Tranquility replaced commotion of excited crowds. Soft sunlight took over artificial floodlights. After entering the Nio-men Gate (仁王門), we walked up to the main temple platform along with several local visitors. To avoid the tourist crowds coming in an hour or so, we first made our way to the Hondo (本堂), or the Main Hall. At the entrance of the wooden Kiyomizu Stage (清水の舞台), we tried lifting the displayed Steel Geta and Steel Shakujou, two Buddhist objects dedicated to Benkei (武蔵坊弁慶), a 12th century warrior monk who was famous for his loyalty and strength. We could lift up the lighter Shakujou (12 kg/26 lbs), but definitely not the heavy Geta (90 kg/ 198 lbs). We wandered on the wooden stage for a while, and went over to the deck of Okunoin Hall for an overview of the Main Hall, the colourful autumn maples and the distant skyline of Kyoto.

A flight of stone steps adjacent to the Main Hall led us to the popular Jishu Shrine (地主神社), a Shinto shrine dedicated to Okuninushi no Mikoto (大国主命), a deity of love and matchmaking. Perched above the thatched roof of the Main Hall, the Jishu Shrine is consisted of a cluster of small shrines around a main shrine. The shrine is popular for lonely hearts who are seeking for real love, as well as couples who are praying for consolidation of their relationships. At the forecourt of Jishu, two rocks stand 18m apart from each other. Legend said that if one can walk from one rock to the other with their eyes shut, then their wishes for love would come true. Names of donors from all over Japan and foreign countries are displayed inside and outside the shrine, indicating just how universal a simple wish for love is. Apart from love, visitors also come to pray for good fortunate and safety for their family, and smooth delivery for their babies.

As we descended back to the Main Hall, the sun had finally moved above the mountain and shined on the temple buildings. We made a detour to the temple forecourt for a few more pictures of the buildings under the morning sun. We then walked south towards the small Koyasu-no-to Pagoda, or Easy Child-birth Pagoda, at the far end of the valley. Standing right by the Koyasu-no-to Pagoda and looked across the valley, we had a great view of the Kiyomizu-dera as the shadow of eastern mountains gradually receded. We continued down the valley path to the base of Kiyomizu Stage, where we encountered multiple groups of school students who came for a school trip with their teachers and tour guides. A large group of the school students gathered at the Otowa Waterfall, waiting for their turn to taste the sacred water from one of the three waterfall streams. Given the super long queue, we gave up the idea of trying it ourselves. After a night stroll and an early morning visit, we truly enjoyed Kiyomizu-dera with its magnificent timber architecture, spiritual atmosphere, natural setting, and views of the city. It was time for us to move on to other places in Higashiyama and Gion before the afternoon rain arrived.

We entered the temple from the main gate of Nio-men (仁王門) and walked up to the main temple platform.

Visitors tried to lift the Steel Geta (90 kg/ 198 lbs) and Steel Shakujou (12 kg/ 26 lbs) at the entrance of Kiyomizu Stage.

The Main Hall and Stage of Kiyomizu-dera would soon be covered in scaffolding for a major renovation.

The crimson maples in front of the Kiyomizu Stage offered a poetic sense of autumn.

There were only several local visitors around, allowing us to enjoy the temple peacefully.

It was well past the peak moment but the autumn foliage was still a major enhancement to our visit of Kiyomizu-dera.

Out the wooden balustrade, we could see the small Koyasu-no-to Pagoda at the far end of the valley.

Autumn colours at the valley below Kiyomizu Stage.

The Main Hall and Kiyomizu Stage as seen from the deck of Okunoin Hall.

Close up of the structure of Kiyomizu Stage and the valley path.

The stair that led us up to the Jishu Shrine, a sacred place for worshipers seeking for fortune of love.

One of the two love stones in the forecourt of Jishu Shrine.

The main shrine of Jishu Shrine was covered with names of donors.

One of the several small shrines at Jishu Shrine where worshipers can make a variety of prayers and wishes, from good fortune to smooth childbirth.

Okuninushi no Mikoto, the deity of love and matchmaking, and his messager the rabbit.

Kyodo, the Sutra Hall and Sanjunoto, the Three-storey Pagoda under the morning sun.

The morning warmed up as the shadow of the eastern mountains receded from the autumn maples below Kiyomizu Stage.

Not until we reached the far end of the valley that we realized the Koyasu-no-to Pagoda, or Easy Child-birth Pagoda, was actually quite small.

Overview of Kiyomizu-dera as seen from Koyasu-no-to Pagoda.

The valley path below Kiyomizu Stage was packed with school groups.

Many students were interested for a sip of the sacred water at the Otowa Waterfall.

It was already 9:30am when we left Kiyomizu-dera.

***

January 15, 2017 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kyoto and Nara 2016, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: autumn, Benkei, Buddhism, Buddhist, fall, foliage, geta, Higashiyama, Hondo, Japan, Jishi, Jishu, Kiyomizu dera, Koyasu-no-to, Kyoto, love, maples, Mikoto, Nio-mon, Okuninushi, Otowa, pilgrimage, shakujou, Shinto, Stage, Temple, UNESCO, veranda, 地主神社, 本堂, 武蔵坊弁慶, 清水の舞台, 清水寺, 京都, 仁王門 | Leave a comment

DAY 2 (1/6): MORNING STROLL IN SOUTHERN HIGASHIYAMA (東山), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.04

There is perhaps no better place in Kyoto to take a morning stroll than the area of Southern Higashiyama, in the historical alleyways between Yasaka Jinja (八坂神社) and Kiyomizu-dera Temple (清水寺). The bus dropped us off at the street intersection of Higashioji Dori (東大路通) and Shijo Dori (四条通). We picked up a box of sushi from Lawson convenience store for breakfast, then crossed the road to enter Yasaka Shrine from its west gate. Yasaka Jinja is one of the most popular shrines in Kyoto, especially when the most famous festival in Japan, Gion Matsuri, takes place annually in July for over a thousand years. Though in the early morning that we visited, there were only a handful of worshipers and tourists around. Like many Shinto shrines, Yasaka was like a park dotted with pavilions and shrines. The most prominent feature in Yasaka was the central pavilion of lanterns with donor names written on them. Exiting the shrine from its south gate, we headed south in the direction of Kiyomizu-dera, intending to return to this iconic temple for a daytime visit. Soon we reached the entrance of a traditional stone paved alleyway known as Ishibei Koji (石塀小路). Flanked both sides by historical timber homes, restaurants and ryokans, the alleyway exemplified what Medieval Kyoto might be like. We were delighted to have the lane all by ourselves. After making a few turns in Ishibei Koji, we exited the alleyway at the other end, standing just a stone throw away from two other greatly preserved historical alleyways, Ninenzaka (二年坂) and Sannenzaka (三年坂).

From Ishibei Koji, we continued to walk south on Nene-no-michi Lane (ねねの道), the historical stone paved street in front of the park of Kodaiji Temple. Soon we arrived at the picturesque Ninenzaka (二年坂). Timber townhouses known as machiya (町屋) were beautifully preserved along this heritage lane. Telephone cables which were normally suspended in mid air from street poles to street poles were nowhere to be seen. It was still early, shops had yet opened their doors and there were hardly any other tourists. We took our time to soak up the historical atmosphere. When we reached Yasaka Dori (八坂通), we made a short detour down to take a daytime photo of the Yasaka Pagoda of Hokanji Temple (法観寺八坂の塔). Heading back uphill and we soon arrived at Sannenzaka (三年坂), another atmospheric lane with steps that led us to Matsubara Dori (松原通), the last bit of road that would take us back to the entrance of the most iconic temple in Japan, Kiyomizu-dera Temple (清水寺).

Arriving at the intersection of Higashioji Dori (東大路通) and Shijo Dori (四条通).

The west gate of Yasaka Jinja (八坂神社)

We also passed by smaller shrines in the complex.

There were hardly anyone around at the main court of the complex.

Traditional lanterns written with donor’s name.

Walking along a lane with orange fence and lanterns and autumn foliage.

Two ladies walking uphill towards Maruyama Park (円山公園).

Vending machine and the iconic Yasaka Pagoda in a distance.

Poster regarding the night visits at Kiyomizu-dera.

At IIshibei Koji, we had to keep quiet while walking through the stone paved lane.

Temple houses at IIshibei Koji.

A tiny shrine by a manhole at Nene-no-Michi Lane.

Magnificent timber machiya along Sannenzaka.

Approaching the steps of Sannenzaka.

Roadside shrine at Sannenzaka.

The stepped part of Ninenzaka.

Yasaka Pagoda as seen from Kamimachi (八坂通).

Walking uphill at Sannenzaka.

Approaching the steps of Sannenzaka.

Looking back down Sannenzaka from the steps.

***

January 12, 2017 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kyoto and Nara 2016, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: ねねの道, 町屋, 石塀小路, Gion, Higashiyama, History, Hokanji, Ishibei Koji, Japan, Jinja, Kiyomizu dera, Kyoto, machiya, Matsubara, Nene-no-Michi, Ninenzaka, pagoda, Sannenzaka, Shrine, Temple, Yasaka, zen, 八坂の塔, 八坂神社, 八坂通, 四条通, 東山, 松原通, 清水寺, 三年坂, 二年坂, 京都 | Leave a comment

DAY 1 (6/6): NIGHT AT KIYOMIZU-DERA (清水寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.03

As first time visitors to Kyoto, we were eager to see the autumn colours at the world famous Kiyomizu-dera (清水寺), especially when we knew that the iconic Kiyomizu Stage (清水の舞台) would undergo a major renovation starting from January 2017. It was the second last day of the season that Kiyomizu-dera opened for autumn special night viewing, and according to local weather forecast, Kyoto’s weather would turn bad in a day’s time. Without hesitation we hopped on a bus near Kitano Tenmangu and headed back to Higashiyama. We had some rest on the 45-minute bus ride. After getting off, we picked one alleyway to walk uphill. Soon we arrived at the magnificent Hokanji Yasaka Pagoda (法観寺八坂の塔). As we walked uphill, we felt like we were pilgrims going back in time, entering into a world of narrow stone alleyways, centuries-old timber houses and Buddhist buildings. Along the way, most shops were already closed, but a few souvenir and snack shops still opened to serve the night visitors of Kiyomizu-dera. Over our heads, we soon discovered a strong beam of blue light in the sky, pointing from Mount Otowa (音羽山) where the temple was situated, outwards to the infinite sky above the city. According to the official website, the light embodies the Kannon (観音)’s compassion, brightening the streets of the ancient city. For us, it was like a guidance leading us uphill. It get more crowded as we walked closer to the temple. Minutes later we arrived at the stepped plaza of Niomon Gate (仁王門). In front of the famous Saimon Gate (西門), we lined up to get our admission tickets from a temporary shelter and delightfully walked up the stair to enter the temple complex.

The autumn foliage at Kiyomizu-dera had past its peak a few days ago. Nonetheless, all visitors including us were excited to tour around the celebrated complex under the illuminations of floodlights and embellishment of the remaining autumn maples. At the main hall, we took off our shoes, paid our respect in front of the sanctuary, and admired the illuminated autumn colours down in the valley below Kiyomizu Stage. Standing 13m above the valley, the Kiyomizu Stage (清水の舞台) had been the centerpiece of the temple for centuries. Without using a single nail, the Kiyomizu Stage is made of 410 Hinoki wooden boards supported by 18 Zelkova pillars using the hole and grooves technique known as the Kakezukuri Method. From the stage, a stone path led us to the opposite side of the valley, where a large crowd gathered in front of Okunoin Hall (奥の院) looking back to admire the main hall and Kiyomizu Stage. Perched above the fire red maples, the huge roof of the main hall made of Hinoki bark and the lattice structure of Kiyomizu Stage looked gorgeously timeless, while the comet-like beam of blue light connected the temple with the glittering urban skyline beyond. The path overlooking the valley of colourful leaves then led us further away from the main hall until reaching the base of the small pagoda where we headed down to the valley. In the valley, a tree-lined path brought us all the way back to the bottom of the Kiyomizu Stage, where the adjacent Otowa waterfall (音羽の瀧) came down in three separated streams. Another crowd of visitors formed a long queue at the waterfall, waiting for their turn to drink the water with the special cup provided. As we headed to the temple exit, we passed by a mirror-like pond with magnificent reflections of autumn leaves and the orange Three-storey Pagoda above the cliff.

We were overjoyed for having such a fruitful day of sightseeing. To give this beautiful day a satisfying closure we opted for a late dinner. We walked downhill from Kiyomizu-dera, passed through Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社), and entered the lively district of Gion (祇園), the active area of traditional geisha. We picked Okaru (おかる), a small udon restaurant popular with geiko since established in 1923. We ordered two of their signature noodle bowls and felt truly grateful of finishing our wonderful first day of Kyoto.

Passing by the Hokanji Yasaka Pagoda (法観寺八坂の塔) as we headed up to Kiyomizu-dera.

Minutes later we arrived at the stepped plaza of Niomon Gate (仁王門).

In front of the famous Saimon Gate (西門), we lined up to get our admission tickets from a temporary shelter, while the beam of blue light shot up the sky behind the temple.

Stone statue in front of the Three-storey Pagoda.

Looking back out to the Three-storey Pagoda behind entering the main hall.

Visitors stepping into the timber structure of the main hall.

Inside the main hall, the sanctuary is consisted of three sections: outer, inner, and innermost. Only the outer sanctuary is open to the public.

Visitors gathered on the Kiyomizu Stage photographing the skyline of Kyoto.

The strong beam of blue light shot out from Mount Otowa behind the temple.

Behind the Kiyomizu Stage, a prominent stair led down to the Otowa waterfall.

Iconic overview of Kiyomizu Stage, main hall, autumn maples, blue light and Kyoto skyline.

The beam of blue light pointed towards Kyoto Tower in a distance.

The stair adjacent to the timber structure of the Kiyomizu Stage.

The amazing structure of Kiyomizu Stage lit up with floodlight.

Lanterns indicating special night viewing, which happens three times a year: cherry season in spring, three days of Thousand-day Pilgrimage/Special Viewing of nainaijin in the Main Hall in the summer, and the maple colours in autumn.