勅使門 | Blue Lapis Road

DAY 1 (3/6): NINNAJI TEMPLE (仁和寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.03

Some bloggers mention Ninnaji Temple (仁和寺) is their favorite temple in Kyoto. It is not a small feat for any Kyoto temple to become someone’s favorite given the city has over 1600 temples. We had high expectations for Ninnaji before the trip and was delighted to check out this head temple of the Omuro school of the Shingong Sect of Buddhism on our first day. Following street signage, it was an easy 15-minute walk from Ryoanji to Ninnaji. The air was cool and refreshing in the northwestern foothills of Kyoto. The occasional vivid autumn leaves along the way made our walk even more pleasant. Founded in AD 888 by Emperor Uda, Ninnaji Temple maintained its close connection with the imperial family until Meji Restoration in the 19th century. For a thousand years the temple’s abbot had always been served by someone in the imperial family . Today most surviving buildings date back to the 17th century.

Ninnaji Temple is consisted of two main parts: Garan (伽藍) and Goren (御殿). The monumental main gate Nio-mon Gate (二王門) is one of the three famous gates in Kyoto, representing the magnificent timber skills and sense of beauty of ancient craftsmen. We started our visit at the Goren (御殿) just behind the ticket office. After taking off our shoes, we entered the Goren through a zigzag covered walkway, which ended at a peaceful dry zen garden known as the Dantei (南庭), or the South Garden. The pebbles and sand were arranged in rows across a large area, with the beautiful Chokushi-mon Gate (勅使門) and the Nio-mon Gate as prominent visual focuses in the background. The tranquil atmosphere of Dantei prompted us to stay for a short while to enjoy the pleasant moment. Following the covered verandas, we walked around Dantei to admire the traditional wall paintings inside prayer rooms along the way. The paintings on the golden walls in the Shinden (宸殿), the main hall, revealed an imperial touch in the design as if the interior of an imperial palace. After another turn we reached a completely different garden, the Hokutei (北庭), the North Garden. The main focus of Hokutei was a serene reflecting pool, reflecting the autumn foliage and the Five-Storey Pagoda in the Garan further in the background. Just a few minutes before we were admiring the abstract dry landscape of Dantei, where sand and pebbles metaphorize the sea, rocks as islands and trees as forests. A few minutes later we had entered a lush world of greenery and water in the Hokutei.

After the Goren, we walked over to Chu-mon Gate (中門) into the much larger Garan (伽藍). The entire Goren area was like a park, with several buildings scattered over in the area. We first headed over to the Gojunoto (五重塔), or the Five-storey Pagoda, an elegant tower visible from many places in Ninnaji. Behind the pagoda, we arrived at Kusho Myojin Shrine (九所明神), a peaceful Shinto shrine under the shade of trees. After clapping, praying and bowing in front of the shrine, we continued to wander around Garan. Next came Kyozo Sutra Hall (経蔵), a squarish timber building used to store the Buddhist scriptures. Back to the central area, we reached the largest building in Garan, the Kondo (金堂), or the Golden Hall, and the orange painted Syoro (鐘楼). None of these buildings were open, but it was the poetic atmosphere of these historical buildings in the natural setting that we enjoyed the most. Before leaving, we had a quick visit of the Miedo (御影堂), a Buddhist hall dedicated to Kukai (弘法大師) – the famous 8th century Buddhist monk who studied Buddhism in Xian of China and founded Shingon Buddhism in Japan. After a thorough visit of Goren and Garan, we walked through the monumental Nio-mon Gate once again, leaving Ninnaji slightly after 3pm. Because of the time of year the sun was already quite low, and it felt like late afternoon. We decided to quickly take the bus a few stops northwards to probably the most popular attraction in Kyoto, the Kinkakuji (金閣寺), or the Golden Pavilion.

It was a pleasant 15-minute walk from Ryoanji Temple to Ninnaji Temple.

We walked past beautiful autumn maples along the way.

We finally reached the monumental Nio-mon Gate, the main gate of Ninnaji Temple.

The timber structure of the Nio-mon Gate is a beautiful piece of architecture.

After getting the admission tickets, we entered the Goren (御殿) via a stone path flanked by the dry landscape of pebble and sand.

We took off our shoes and entered a zigzag covered walkway to enter the main buildings of Goren (御殿).

The Dantei (南庭), South Garden, of Goren (御殿) is a peaceful dry landscape of pebbles and sand, with the Chokushi-mon Gate (勅使門) and Nio-mon Gate (二王門) as background.

We followed the covered verandas to circle around the buildings of Goren (御殿).

The dry landscape of Dantei (南庭) could be appreciated at different angles along the way.

An intimate pavilion just outside the timber veranda.

The golden interiors of the Shinden (宸殿) reveals a sense of imperial aesthetics.

The “wet” landscape of Hokutei (北庭) provided a stark contrast from the dry landscape of the Dantei (南庭).

The sun was already getting low when we wandered around Ninnaji Temple.

The Chu-mon Gate (中門) led us into the much larger Garan (伽藍) area.

The old statue of a Buddhist Guardian at one side of the Chu-mon Gate.

The Gojunoto (五重塔) in the Garan (伽藍) as seen from below.

Under the tree shades, the Kusho Myojin Shrine (九所明神) looked peaceful.

The squarish Kyozo Sutra Hall (経蔵) was a decent one-storey timber building with a big roof.

The Kondo (金堂), or the main hall in Garan in the park setting.

The maple colour near the Kondo (金堂) were its peak.

The orange Bell Tower adjacent to the Kondo.

Autumn foliage in front of the Bell Tower.

The Miedo (御影堂) was the last building we visited in Ninnaji Temple.

Before leaving Ninnaji, we passed by the maple leaves under the roof of the Kondo one last time.

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December 30, 2016 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kyoto and Nara 2016, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: Architecture, Buddhism, Buddhist, Chokushi-Mon, Chu-mon, 経蔵, Garan, Goren, Heian, heritage, History, Japan, Kukai, Kyoto, Kyozo, Miedo, Ninnaji, Nio-mon, Omuro, Shingon, Shingong, Shinto, Shintoism, Temple, timber, UNESCO, veranda, zen, 勅使門, 弘法大師, 御影堂, 御殿, 二王門, 京都, 仁和寺, 伽藍 | Leave a comment

DAY 1 (2/6): RYOANJI TEMPLE (龍安寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.03

We first learnt about Ryoanji Temple and its world renowned garden of zen dry landscape or Japanese rock garden, karesansui (枯山水), back in our university years from the lectures in our class ARCH 249 – The Art and Architecture of the East. Since then, we had longed for visiting this legendary zen garden. Our chance had come at midday in a fine late autumn day. The Rinzai Zen Buddhist temple is situated within a garden compound, consisting of a water pond, woodlands, gardens, pavilions, and the main building complex where the Abbot’s Chamber, Tearoom, Buddhist Hall, and the famous zen garden can be found.

It was a short walk from the San-mon (山門), or the main entrance, to the main building complex. We took our time to admire the magnificent autumn foliage along the way. Once inside the main building, we took off our shoes and purchased admission tickets. First came a dim exhibition hall showcasing artefacts, calligraphy, and artworks related to the temple. Beyond the exhibition hall was the bright wooden veranda where most visitors gathered. On one side of the veranda was the Hojo (方丈), or Abbot’s Chamber, while on the other side lay the famous zen garden: 15 rocks of various sizes abstractly arranged in a 248 s.m area of dry pebbles. Since the 15th century, there were various interpretations regarding the design and meaning behind the rocks, from symbolism of ancient Chinese mythologies to representation of traditional character. It is open for everyone’s imagination and interpretation. We sat down at the veranda to contemplate the rocks and pebbles. The garden was too crowded with visitors for any decent meditation or tranquil moment in heart. Against the centuries-old oil-earthen wall and the autumn foliage beyond, the garden still captured our eyes visually despite the undesirable midday sun.

After putting back on our shoes, we followed another path that meandered through a small woodland of amazing autumn foliage, passed by Yudofu (西源院) – a traditional restaurant serving tofu meals, and strolled along Kyoyochi (鏡容池), or Mirror Pond, where we enjoyed a picturesque scene of reflections, water plants and autumn foliage. Before setting off for our next destination, we had a quick skewer of sweet rice balls near the entrance of Ryoanji.

A sense of autumn immediately beyond the San-mon (山門) or the main gate of Ryoanji.

An illustration of the Ryoanji Temple compound with the famous rock garden at the centre back location in front of the orange roof Abbot’s Chamber.

We were just in time to see the last bit of amazing autumn foliage of Kyoto.

Tree-lined path leading to the Chokushi-Mon Gate (勅使門).

Steps leading to Chokushi-Mon Gate (勅使門).

Like many temples in Kyoto, we had to take off our shoes before entering the temple building of Ryoanji.

Traditional illustration of the rock garden, which is believed to be constructed in the 15th century. Who was the original designer remains unknown.

Our first view of Ryoanji rock garden under the unforgiving midday sun. It would be much better off if it was overcast and gone with the shadows.

Rock clusters, moss, pebble patterns, earthen walls and red foliage coincided to form a harmonious imagery.

Patterns of the pebbles are carefully maintained by temple staff, a daily duty for Zen Buddhist monks in the past.

The timber floor decking and supporting members were soft and warm to walk on and appealing for touch.

Timber details of the eaves and column.

Interior of Hojo (方丈), Abbot’s Chamber, in which the centre point should be the ideal viewing spot of the entire rock garden.

The timber veranda continued to wrap around the courtyards into the temple sections not open to public.

A wonderful pine tree against autumn foliage in front of the main temple building.

A side door of the rock garden remained closed.

On our way out we walked through a small woodland of magnificent colours.

The autumn foliage in Kyoto is quite different than the ones we used to see in North America, in terms of leaf sizes and colour ranges.

Yudofu (西源院) – a traditional restaurant serving tofu meals.

Duck and autumn foliage at Kyoyochi (鏡容池), Mirror Pond.

Despite the amount of visitors alongside, it was a nice walk along the Mirror Pond.

After a pleasant visit of Ryoanji, we were ready to see the other temples in the area.

***

December 29, 2016 | Categories: Japan, Japan: Kyoto and Nara 2016, Kyoto and Nara | Tags: abbot, autumn, beauty, Buddhism, Buddhist, Chokushi-Mon, design, dry, earth, 鏡容池, 龍安寺, fall, foliage, garden, heritage, History, Japan, Japanese, karesansui, Kyoto, Kyoyochi, landscape, maples, Rinzai, rock, Ryoanji, Temple, UNESCO, veranda, wall, woods, zen, 勅使門, 枯山水, 京都 | Leave a comment

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Posts tagged “勅使門”

DAY 1 (3/6): NINNAJI TEMPLE (仁和寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.03

DAY 1 (2/6): RYOANJI TEMPLE (龍安寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.03