ultramarinus – beyond the sea

Day 1 to 10

DAY 10 (4 of 4) – RIO CLARO BOAT TOUR, PANTANAL, BRAZIL

Our first Pantanal activity was a boat tour in Rio Claro.  Just like visiting the Amazon, a river tour is a must do at Pantanal.  The three-hour boat ride gave us a good introduction to the diverse wild life in the Pantanal.  Our guide also let us try fishing piranha.  Our wildlife sightings include many water birds, capybaras, howling monkeys, river otters, a river-crossing tapir, and finally, a very very very long distant view of the majestic jaguar.  On our way back, the full moon was already high up in the sky.
ImageRiver otter
ImageRiver crossing tapir
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ImageThe moment when we saw a jaguar hidden under the shade of the bush.  Can you spot it in this photo?
DSC_6162Here is the zoom-in view of the jaguar from the same photo above.

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Read other posts on Pantanal, Brazil
Day 9.1 – Trail of Waterfalls, Chapada dos Guimaraes
Day 9.2 – Stone City, Chapada dos Guimaraes
Day 10.1 – Pantanal
Day 10.2 – Transpantaneria Highway, Pantanal
Day 10.3 – Pousada Rio Claro, Pantanal
Day 10.4 – Rio Claro Boat Tour, Pantanal
Day 11.1 – Morning Safari and Forest Walk, Pantanal
Day 11.2 – Rio Claro, Pantanal
Day 12.1 – Morning Walk, Pantanal
Day 12.2 – Pouso Alegre Lodge, Pantanal
Day 12.3 – Afternoon Walk and Evening Safari, Pananal
Day 12.4 – Night of Caimans
Day 13.1 – Farewell Pantanal, Brazil

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 10 (3 of 4) – POUSADA RIO CLARO, PANTANAL, BRAZIL

After 3.5 hours on the road, we arrived at Pousada Rio Claro, where we would be staying for 2 nights.  Birds were everywhere, especially in the courtyard where there were a number of bird feeders.  A long boardwalk extended to the riverside of Rio Claro, ending at a small boat dock. Image
Front gate of Pousada Rio ClaroImage Sleeping quarter of the lodgeImage Dinning hall Image One of the many bird feeders in the lodge Image River dock

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Read other posts on Pantanal, Brazil
Day 9.1 – Trail of Waterfalls, Chapada dos Guimaraes
Day 9.2 – Stone City, Chapada dos Guimaraes
Day 10.1 – Pantanal
Day 10.2 – Transpantaneria Highway, Pantanal
Day 10.3 – Pousada Rio Claro, Pantanal
Day 10.4 – Rio Claro Boat Tour, Pantanal
Day 11.1 – Morning Safari and Forest Walk, Pantanal
Day 11.2 – Rio Claro, Pantanal
Day 12.1 – Morning Walk, Pantanal
Day 12.2 – Pouso Alegre Lodge, Pantanal
Day 12.3 – Afternoon Walk and Evening Safari, Pananal
Day 12.4 – Night of Caimans
Day 13.1 – Farewell Pantanal, Brazil

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 10 (2 of 4) – TRANSPANTANERIA HIGHWAY, PANTANAL, BRAZIL

Aliton from Pantanal Nature (our tour company) met us at 7am at the lobby of Hotel Mato Grosso.  At his car, we met a couple from England who had also booked their tour with Pantanal Nature.  We drove out of Cuiaba. On the way, we picked up a few bottles of water, and filled up the gas before entering the Transpantaneira Highway.  The Transpantaneira Highway is a dirt road built in early 1970s intended to bisect Pantanal from north to south.  Only 145km of the originally intended 397km was built. With 145km and 125 bridges, according to some, Transpantaneria has the highest concentration of wooden bridges in the world. The road work also created many ditches on both sides, accidentally providing water ponds where caimens and waterbirds love to gather, especially during the dry season. During the 1.5-hour drive on our way to the lodge, we saw caimens, rheas, and many kinds of water birds. 

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Read other posts on Pantanal, Brazil
Day 9.1 – Trail of Waterfalls, Chapada dos Guimaraes
Day 9.2 – Stone City, Chapada dos Guimaraes
Day 10.1 – Pantanal
Day 10.2 – Transpantaneria Highway, Pantanal
Day 10.3 – Pousada Rio Claro, Pantanal
Day 10.4 – Rio Claro Boat Tour, Pantanal
Day 11.1 – Morning Safari and Forest Walk, Pantanal
Day 11.2 – Rio Claro, Pantanal
Day 12.1 – Morning Walk, Pantanal
Day 12.2 – Pouso Alegre Lodge, Pantanal
Day 12.3 – Afternoon Walk and Evening Safari, Pananal
Day 12.4 – Night of Caimans
Day 13.1 – Farewell Pantanal, Brazil

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 10 (1 of 4) – PANTANAL, BRAZIL

Today is the first of our four-day tour of Pantanal, the largest wetland in the world.  Similar to many tropical wetlands, Pantanal has only two seasons, the wet and the dry.  During wet season, much of Pantanal is submerged under a few feet of water. In the dry season, the land dries up except some pools of water at low spots.  Animals and birds gather around these water pools, making Pantanal in dry season the best place for wildlife spotting in Brazil.  Like most tourists, we come to Pantanal for its abundant wildlife: caimens, monkeys, tapirs, anteaters, armadillos, otters, capybaras, macaws, uncounted species of birds, piranhas, and most importantly, jaguars.  With significantly less trees than the Amazon Rainforest, it is much easier to spot wildlife here than anywhere else in Brazil.  Arriving at mid October, we are pretty much at the transitional time from dry to wet season.  Tourism here started about 30 years ago.  Today there are dozens of eco-lodges dotted along the Transpantaneira Highway.  Despite its inaccessibility, most lands in Pantanal are privately owned and they are huge in size.  For instance, the land parcel where our first lodge is situated is roughly 2,500 hectares, and the land of our second lodge is even bigger at 11,000 hectares in size.  Traditional industries in the Pantanal include ranching and fishing.  Fortunately the soil and the climate here are not suitable for agriculture; therefore, much of the landscape is still preserved, and along with it, a diverse ecosystem of wildlife.

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Read other posts on Pantanal, Brazil
Day 9.1 – Trail of Waterfalls, Chapada dos Guimaraes
Day 9.2 – Stone City, Chapada dos Guimaraes
Day 10.1 – Pantanal
Day 10.2 – Transpantaneria Highway, Pantanal
Day 10.3 – Pousada Rio Claro, Pantanal
Day 10.4 – Rio Claro Boat Tour, Pantanal
Day 11.1 – Morning Safari and Forest Walk, Pantanal
Day 11.2 – Rio Claro, Pantanal
Day 12.1 – Morning Walk, Pantanal
Day 12.2 – Pouso Alegre Lodge, Pantanal
Day 12.3 – Afternoon Walk and Evening Safari, Pananal
Day 12.4 – Night of Caimans
Day 13.1 – Farewell Pantanal, Brazil

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 9 (2 OF 2) – STONE CITY, CHAPADA DOS GUIMARAES, BRAZIL

After the half-day hike, we drove for about half an hour to the lookout with interesting formation of stone. This place is called Cidade De Pedra, the Stone City.  Stone City has just been reopened recently after months of closure due to safety issues.  It started to rain heavily as we approached our destination.  At the gate of the lookout, we met two Australian couples who were driving their custom constructed 4x4s on a round-the-world road trip.  They were waiting at the gate, as they didn’t have a guide to let them in.  Cecilia was kind enough to take them with us.  At the lookout, we waited a bit in the car hoping that the thunderstorm would be over soon.  After a 15-minute wait, we decided to put on our rain gears and ventured out to the lookout in the rain.  Cecilia led us to various lookouts along the cliff.  The view of the red stone cliffs rising above the lush green valley was breathtaking. The rain finally stopped when we reached the last lookout.  Cecilia pointed to a distant cliff and showed us the macaw nests.  Soon after, we saw a pair of red macaws glided over the valley under the afternoon sun.  It was a magical moment. On our way out of the lookout, we drove by a baby owl standing by the road.  We stopped the car to take a few photos through the window.  The baby owl was freaked out and screamed as loud as it could, while its parents stayed cool on a distant tree staring at us.DSC_5681
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Read other posts on Pantanal, Brazil
Day 9.1 – Trail of Waterfalls, Chapada dos Guimaraes
Day 9.2 – Stone City, Chapada dos Guimaraes
Day 10.1 – Pantanal
Day 10.2 – Transpantaneria Highway, Pantanal
Day 10.3 – Pousada Rio Claro, Pantanal
Day 10.4 – Rio Claro Boat Tour, Pantanal
Day 11.1 – Morning Safari and Forest Walk, Pantanal
Day 11.2 – Rio Claro, Pantanal
Day 12.1 – Morning Walk, Pantanal
Day 12.2 – Pouso Alegre Lodge, Pantanal
Day 12.3 – Afternoon Walk and Evening Safari, Pananal
Day 12.4 – Night of Caimans
Day 13.1 – Farewell Pantanal, Brazil

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 9 (1 OF 2) – TRAIL OF WATERFALLS, CHAPADA DOS GUIMARAES, BRAZIL

Before our 4-day tour to Pantanal, we had a day to visit the Chapada dos G National Park.  Located an hour drive north of Cuiaba, the bus ride took us about an hour to the town centre of Chapada.  We met our guide Cecilia at the office of Eco Turismo Cultural, the local travel agency that we booked our tour.  We entered the park after a short drive on her 4×4.  We started the day with the Trail of Waterfalls, a 4-hour loop passing 7 falls and a natural cave.  As we hiked, Cecilia picked up some fossils of small seashells on the path and explained to us that Chapada dos Guimaraes was once an inland ocean isolated from both the Atlantic and Pacific.  The cliffs and valley that we could see now was covered by shallow water.  She also told us that Chapada is located at the geographic centre of South America.  It’s about the same distance here to both the Atlantic and Pacific.  Rivers north of Chapada flow north and enter the Amazon; and the ones south of Chapada go south towards the Iguazu River.   The hike was pleasant at times, but we were both overwhelmed by the heat as we hiked up and down the trail to the various waterfalls.  We took off our hiking boots and rested our feet in the water at one of the falls.  The water was cool and clear.  Near the end of the hike, we chilled out at Casa de Petra (House of Stone), a natural grotto carved out by a river. Casa de Petra has been a rest stop for travelers since ancient times.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERADSC_5557DSC_5597DSC_5616Casa de Petra

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Previous Destination: Iguazu Falls, starting from post Day 6.1

Read other posts on Pantanal, Brazil
Day 9.1 – Trail of Waterfalls, Chapada dos Guimaraes
Day 9.2 – Stone City, Chapada dos Guimaraes
Day 10.1 – Pantanal
Day 10.2 – Transpantaneria Highway, Pantanal
Day 10.3 – Pousada Rio Claro, Pantanal
Day 10.4 – Rio Claro Boat Tour, Pantanal
Day 11.1 – Morning Safari and Forest Walk, Pantanal
Day 11.2 – Rio Claro, Pantanal
Day 12.1 – Morning Walk, Pantanal
Day 12.2 – Pouso Alegre Lodge, Pantanal
Day 12.3 – Afternoon Walk and Evening Safari, Pananal
Day 12.4 – Night of Caimans
Day 13.1 – Farewell Pantanal, Brazil

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 8 (1 OF 1)- CATARATAS DO IGUACU, BRAZIL

Today we left Argentina (will be returning in a few weeks) and entered Brazil.  In the morning, we took local transportation to cross the border.  At the bus terminal of Puerto Iguazu, we took a bus to the national border.  Thanks to the locals who pointed us with the right directions, everything went smoothly as we got the exit stamp of Argentina, crossed the river dividing the two countries, and went through the Brazilian passport control.  At the Brazilian side, we took another bus going towards Foz dos Iguacu and got off at Bonborn Hotel as instructed by the staff at Jasy Hotel.  Then we crossed the road and got on another local bus that took us to the Brazilian Iguacu Falls National Park.  We had a few hours to visit the park before our evening flight to Cuiaba.

At the park entrance, we dropped off our backpacks at the locker storage.  Then we hopped on a park shuttle bus at the entry hall covered by a huge canopy.  All the major lookouts and attractions were connected by the shuttle route, allowing us to hop on and off as desired.  We got off at the first lookout of the falls at a trailhead.  It was grey, misty and occasionally rainy the entire day.  The trail took us to various panoramic views of the falls on the Argentine side.  The views were spectacular if not for the weather that made everything looked greyish.  Our hike ended at a grand finale with a close encounter of the Brazilian side of the Devil’s Throat, the same fall section that we visited on the Argentine side on our first day.  The Devil’s Throat is the largest falls among the 275 waterfalls in the area.  At Devil’s Throat, we walked out the metal walkway to the viewing platform right in front of the falls.  It was a fun and soaking experience.  Then we went to the multi-level viewing platform at the side of the falls.  Against the guardrails, tourists were having fun posting in front of the water curtain for photos.  It was such a joyful and wet ending of our Iguazu experience.  After our 2.5-day experience of the falls, we were happy about our visiting sequence: starting at the Argentine side of Devil’s Throat and ending at the Brazilian side.  Visiting Iguazu is truly wonderful because of its variety of experiences.

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Read more posts on Iguazu Falls
Day 6.1 – Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Day 6.2 – Gargantuan del Diablo, Iguazu Falls, Argentina
Day 6.3 – Jasy Hotel, Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Day 7.1 – Lower Trail, Parque Nacional Iguazu, Argentina
Day 7.2 – San Martin Island, Parque Nacional Iguazu, Argentina
Day 7.3 – Upper Trail. Parquet Nacional Iguazu, Argentina
Day 8 – Cataracts do Iguacu, Brazil

Next Destination: Pantanal, Brazil
Continuing our journey from post Day 9.1

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 7 (3 of 3) – UPPER TRAIL, PARQUE NACIONAL IGUAZU, ARGENTINA

We concluded our visit to the Argentine Iguazu National Park with a relaxing walk on the Upper Trail which took us to the top of the falls.

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Read more posts on Iguazu Falls
Day 6.1 – Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Day 6.2 – Gargantuan del Diablo, Iguazu Falls, Argentina
Day 6.3 – Jasy Hotel, Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Day 7.1 – Lower Trail, Parque Nacional Iguazu, Argentina
Day 7.2 – San Martin Island, Parque Nacional Iguazu, Argentina
Day 7.3 – Upper Trail. Parquet Nacional Iguazu, Argentina
Day 8 – Cataracts do Iguacu, Brazil

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 7 (2 of 3) – SAN MARTIN ISLAND, PARQUE NACIONAL IGUAZU, ARGENTINA

San Martin Island had been closed to visitors for the past few days due to high water level.  We were delighted to find out that the island was open today.  Located in between the falls, San Martin Island is a small rocky island famous for its impressively close views of the thundering water and it’s only accessible by boat.  We descended the stairs off the Lower Trail to a boating platform where we hopped on a small motorboat for the island.  The distance was short and the boat landed on the sandy side of the island in less than 5 minutes.  The trail was wet and slippery but the lookouts offered spectacular views of the falls.  But the biggest surprise for us was the close encounter with many vultures that nested on the cliffs at the top of the island. The visit to the San Martin Island is a true highlight of the day.DSC_5177OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERADSC_5196DSC_5179DSC_5221DSC_5218DSC_5263

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Read more posts on Iguazu Falls
Day 6.1 – Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Day 6.2 – Gargantuan del Diablo, Iguazu Falls, Argentina
Day 6.3 – Jasy Hotel, Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Day 7.1 – Lower Trail, Parque Nacional Iguazu, Argentina
Day 7.2 – San Martin Island, Parque Nacional Iguazu, Argentina
Day 7.3 – Upper Trail. Parquet Nacional Iguazu, Argentina
Day 8 – Cataracts do Iguacu, Brazil

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 7 (1 of 3) – LOWER TRAIL, PARQUE NACIONAL IGUAZU, ARGENTINA

There were four major trails in the national park: The Devil’s Throat, The Lower Trail, San Martin Island and the Upper Trail. Yesterday, we visited the Devil’s Throat and today we spent a full day on the other three.

Before we left the national park yesterday, we re-validated our ticket at the ticket office, so today we could get in the Argentine Iguazu National Park with 50% discount. We started the day from Lower Trail, a pleasant hike which took us to various lookouts of the falls at lower to mid level. The weather wasn’t as good as we hoped for, but at least it didn’t rain. We walked through some dense forests with breaks of glorious views to the falls. The beauty of the falls is overwhelming, in rain or shine.

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Read more posts on Iguazu Falls
Day 6.1 – Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Day 6.2 – Gargantuan del Diablo, Iguazu Falls, Argentina
Day 6.3 – Jasy Hotel, Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Day 7.1 – Lower Trail, Parque Nacional Iguazu, Argentina
Day 7.2 – San Martin Island, Parque Nacional Iguazu, Argentina
Day 7.3 – Upper Trail. Parquet Nacional Iguazu, Argentina
Day 8 – Cataracts do Iguacu, Brazil

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 6 (3 of 3) – JASY HOTEL, PUERTO IGUAZU, ARGENTINA

We’ll spend two nights at the Jasy Hotel, a 10-room hotel off on a side street away from the town centre.
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Read more posts on Iguazu Falls
Day 6.1 – Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Day 6.2 – Gargantuan del Diablo, Iguazu Falls, Argentina
Day 6.3 – Jasy Hotel, Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Day 7.1 – Lower Trail, Parque Nacional Iguazu, Argentina
Day 7.2 – San Martin Island, Parque Nacional Iguazu, Argentina
Day 7.3 – Upper Trail. Parquet Nacional Iguazu, Argentina
Day 8 – Cataracts do Iguacu, Brazil

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 6 (2 of 3) – GARGANTA DEL DIABLO, IGUAZU FALLS, ARGENTINA

The weather didn’t look too promising as we entered the Portal de las Cataratas del Iguazú (Iguazu National Park in the Argentine side).  There are a few routes that offer a variety of views of the falls.  Since we only had less than half a day before the park closed, we decided to go for the furthest lookout,  Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat) which would require us to take two separate train rides. The slow train took us to the start of the elevated walkway made of perforated metal panels supported on concrete piers.   As we were approaching the falls, we could hear the roaring of the rushing water and see the mist in mid air. It took us about 20 minutes to get to the final lookout platform. It was full of visitors; but the beauty of the Garganta del Daiblo made all the hassles insignificant. Garganta del Diablo was a good introduction to the Iguazu Fall.  Tomorrow, we’ll take a different route to experience the falls.DSC_5067
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Read more posts on Iguazu Falls
Day 6.1 – Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Day 6.2 – Gargantuan del Diablo, Iguazu Falls, Argentina
Day 6.3 – Jasy Hotel, Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Day 7.1 – Lower Trail, Parque Nacional Iguazu, Argentina
Day 7.2 – San Martin Island, Parque Nacional Iguazu, Argentina
Day 7.3 – Upper Trail. Parquet Nacional Iguazu, Argentina
Day 8 – Cataracts do Iguacu, Brazil

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 6 (1 of 3) – PUERTO IGUAZU, ARGENTINA

A 90-minute flight brought us to a different world than Buenos Aires.  We arrived at Iguazu Airport at 10:30 in the morning.  Everywhere was lust green around the airport runway.  It took us 30 minutes by bus to reach Puerto Iguazu, a town that seemed like wouldn’t exist if Iguazu River does not happen to pass by here with a 80m drop that forms the world famous Iguazu Falls.  All the roads and soil were red in colour.  A bus terminal and a gas station at an intersection form the centre of the town.

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Previous Destination: Buenos Aires, Argentina, reading from post South America 2013

Read more posts on Iguazu Falls
Day 6.1 – Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Day 6.2 – Gargantuan del Diablo, Iguazu Falls, Argentina
Day 6.3 – Jasy Hotel, Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Day 7.1 – Lower Trail, Parque Nacional Iguazu, Argentina
Day 7.2 – San Martin Island, Parque Nacional Iguazu, Argentina
Day 7.3 – Upper Trail. Parquet Nacional Iguazu, Argentina
Day 8 – Cataracts do Iguacu, Brazil

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 5 (5 of 5) – DYLAN ICE-CREAM PARLOUR, BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

On our last night at Buenos Aires, we decided to revisit our favorite ice-cream shop in San Telmo.  Ice cream is big in Buenos Aires.  It seemed to us that there were far more ice cream shops here than coffee shops and fast food chains combined.  To us, the Argentine helato is so good that even surpasses what we remember the Italian gelato in Rome.  Farewell Buenos Aires, we will come back one day for your helado.

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Read other posts on Buenos Aires, Argentina
1. South America 2013
2. Journey Begins
Day 1.1 – San Telmo Loft, Buenos Aires
Day 1.2 – First Walk in Buenos Aires
Day 2.1 – Morning Stroll in San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Day 2.2 – Cementer de la Recoleta, Buenos Aires
Day 2.3 – Architectural Bennale, Buenos Aires
Day 2.4 – El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenos Aires
Day 3.1 – Don Julio Parrillas, Buenos Aires
Day 3.2 – Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Day 3.3 – Teatro Colon, Buenos Aires
Day 4.1 – Malba, Buenos Aires,
Day 4.2 – Chan Chan Peruvian Restaurnant, Buenos Aires
Day 4.3 – Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires
Day 5.1 – Pasaje Defensa, Buenos Aires
Day 5.2 – Buseo de Arte Moderno, Buenos Aires
Day 5.3 – Cafe San Juan, Buenos Aires
Day 5.4 – Cementerio de la Recoleta (2nd Visit), Buenos Aires
Day 5.5 – Dylan Ice-cream Parlour, Buenos Aires

Next Destination: Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Continuing on our journey from post Day 6.1

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 5 (3 of 5) – CAFE SAN JUAN, BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

Recommended by a number of guidebooks, Café San Juan turned out to be our best dining experience in Buenos Aires.  Located two blocks from our loft, Café San Juan is a little neighbourhood restaurant steps away from Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires (MAMBA), serving local dishes with a Spanish touch.  Again we were lucky enough to take the last available table before people queuing outside the door.  We ordered black fettuccine with squid ink and ojo de bife (ribeye steak) with season vegetables.  The flavor of the squid sauce was phenomenal, and so as the tenderness of the beef. The food in B.A. is something that we’ll miss for sure.
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Read other posts on Buenos Aires, Argentina
1. South America 2013
2. Journey Begins

Day 1.1 – San Telmo Loft, Buenos Aires
Day 1.2 – First Walk in Buenos Aires
Day 2.1 – Morning Stroll in San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Day 2.2 – Cementer de la Recoleta, Buenos Aires
Day 2.3 – Architectural Bennale, Buenos Aires
Day 2.4 – El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenos Aires
Day 3.1 – Don Julio Parrillas, Buenos Aires
Day 3.2 – Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Day 3.3 – Teatro Colon, Buenos Aires
Day 4.1 – Malba, Buenos Aires,
Day 4.2 – Chan Chan Peruvian Restaurnant, Buenos Aires
Day 4.3 – Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires
Day 5.1 – Pasaje Defensa, Buenos Aires
Day 5.2 – Buseo de Arte Moderno, Buenos Aires
Day 5.3 – Cafe San Juan, Buenos Aires
Day 5.4 – Cementerio de la Recoleta (2nd Visit), Buenos Aires
Day 5.5 – Dylan Ice-cream Parlour, Buenos Aires

Next Destination: Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Continuing on our journey from post Day 6.1

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 5 (4 of 5) – CEMENTERIO DE LA RECOLETA (2ND VISIT), BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

We came to the Recoleta neighbourhood a second time to visit the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (MNBA).  Before the art museum, we decided to revisit the Recoleta Cemetery to photograph its statues under the late afternoon sun.  It was Saturday and the area in front of the cemetery entrance was turned into a busy market where vendors were selling everything from local snacks to jewelry.  Once again, as we entered the cemetery, we were immediately captivated by the fine details of the richly decorated mausoleums.  Stone angles were particularly handsome under the yellow sunlight.

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Read other posts on Buenos Aires, Argentina
1. South America 2013
2. Journey Begins

Day 1.1 – San Telmo Loft, Buenos Aires
Day 1.2 – First Walk in Buenos Aires
Day 2.1 – Morning Stroll in San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Day 2.2 – Cementer de la Recoleta, Buenos Aires
Day 2.3 – Architectural Bennale, Buenos Aires
Day 2.4 – El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenos Aires
Day 3.1 – Don Julio Parrillas, Buenos Aires
Day 3.2 – Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Day 3.3 – Teatro Colon, Buenos Aires
Day 4.1 – Malba, Buenos Aires,
Day 4.2 – Chan Chan Peruvian Restaurnant, Buenos Aires
Day 4.3 – Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires
Day 5.1 – Pasaje Defensa, Buenos Aires
Day 5.2 – Buseo de Arte Moderno, Buenos Aires
Day 5.3 – Cafe San Juan, Buenos Aires
Day 5.4 – Cementerio de la Recoleta (2nd Visit), Buenos Aires
Day 5.5 – Dylan Ice-cream Parlour, Buenos Aires

Next Destination: Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Continuing on our journey from post Day 6.1

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 5 (2 of 5) – MUSEO DE ARTE MODERNO, BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

We decided to visit to the newly renovated Museo de Arte Moderno (MAMBA) in San Telmo.  Located right beside the Contemporary Art Museum, the Modern Art Museum is housed in a recently renovated industrial building.  A large crowd of people gathered at the door as we entered the museum.  We thought today could well be the opening day of the newly renovated museum.  Local media and well-dressed men and women, many with champagne in hand, gathered at the lower and upper lobby.  The main steel stair made a grand bend in the atrium, connecting the lobby at two levels.
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Gramática del Color forma by Graciela Hasper
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Gramática del Color forma by Graciela Hasper
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El aire tomará esta forma by Karina Peisajovich

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Read other posts on Buenos Aires, Argentina
1. South America 2013
2. Journey Begins

Day 1.1 – San Telmo Loft, Buenos Aires
Day 1.2 – First Walk in Buenos Aires
Day 2.1 – Morning Stroll in San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Day 2.2 – Cementer de la Recoleta, Buenos Aires
Day 2.3 – Architectural Bennale, Buenos Aires
Day 2.4 – El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenos Aires
Day 3.1 – Don Julio Parrillas, Buenos Aires
Day 3.2 – Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Day 3.3 – Teatro Colon, Buenos Aires
Day 4.1 – Malba, Buenos Aires
Day 4.2 – Chan Chan Peruvian Restaurnant, Buenos Aires
Day 4.3 – Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires
Day 5.1 – Pasaje Defensa, Buenos Aires
Day 5.2 – Buseo de Arte Moderno, Buenos Aires
Day 5.3 – Cafe San Juan, Buenos Aires
Day 5.4 – Cementerio de la Recoleta (2nd Visit), Buenos Aires
Day 5.5 – Dylan Ice-cream Parlour, Buenos Aires

Next Destination: Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Continuing on our journey from post Day 6.1

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 5 (1 of 5) – PASAJE DEFENSA, BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

Built in 1880, the Pasaje Defensa (Passage Defensa) was originally the home of the Ezeiza family.  It was once a typical family house in the District of San Telmo.  The decline of San Telmo saw the house converted into first a school and then a tenant apartment that housed 32 families during the 1930s.  Today, it became a surviving relic of the bygone San Telmo, and a perfect reflection of San Telmo’s transformation, from its glory days, through its decades of decline, to its recent revival for tourism.  Occupied by souvenir shops and cafes, the former courtyards and alleyways suggested the significance of the social aspects of family life and the importance of private outdoor spaces.  Beautiful floor tiles, detailed plasterwork, and ornamental iron railings revealed the former elegance of the architecture and craftsmanship of the old artisans.

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Read other posts on Buenos Aires, Argentina
1. South America 2013
2. Journey Begins

Day 1.1 – San Telmo Loft, Buenos Aires
Day 1.2 – First Walk in Buenos Aires
Day 2.1 – Morning Stroll in San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Day 2.2 – Cementer de la Recoleta, Buenos Aires
Day 2.3 – Architectural Bennale, Buenos Aires
Day 2.4 – El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenos Aires
Day 3.1 – Don Julio Parrillas, Buenos Aires
Day 3.2 – Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Day 3.3 – Teatro Colon, Buenos Aires
Day 4.1 – Malba, Buenos Aires
Day 4.2 – Chan Chan Peruvian Restaurnant, Buenos Aires
Day 4.3 – Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires
Day 5.1 – Pasaje Defensa, Buenos Aires
Day 5.2 – Buseo de Arte Moderno, Buenos Aires
Day 5.3 – Cafe San Juan, Buenos Aires
Day 5.4 – Cementerio de la Recoleta (2nd Visit), Buenos Aires
Day 5.5 – Dylan Ice-cream Parlour, Buenos Aires

Next Destination: Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Continuing on our journey from post Day 6.1

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 4 (3 of 3) – PUERTO MADERO, BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

Puerto Madero is a waterfront district east of Downtown Buenos Aires.  Built in late 19th century as the main port of the city, Puerto Madero fell into neglect from 1925 when a new port was built elsewhere.  Throughout 20th century numerous proposals came up to revitalize the area, but not until late 90s that developers finally entered this dockland area.  Hilton opened in 1999, and others followed.  The area is dotted with buildings designed by renowned architects and designers such as Philippe Starck, Norman Foster, etc.  We visited the Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat Art Collection.at the north end of Puerto Madero.  Designed by architect Rafael Viñoly, the art museum houses the private collections of Maria Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat.  As we headed south, we also walked by a bridge by Santiago Calatrava, and many new residential apartments, some of which are the most expensive real estate in Buenos Aires.

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Read other posts on Buenos Aires, Argentina
1. South America 2013
2. Journey Begins

Day 1.1 – San Telmo Loft, Buenos Aires
Day 1.2 – First Walk in Buenos Aires
Day 2.1 – Morning Stroll in San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Day 2.2 – Cementer de la Recoleta, Buenos Aires
Day 2.3 – Architectural Bennale, Buenos Aires
Day 2.4 – El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenos Aires
Day 3.1 – Don Julio Parrillas, Buenos Aires
Day 3.2 – Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Day 3.3 – Teatro Colon, Buenos Aires
Day 4.1 – Malba, Buenos Aires
Day 4.2 – Chan Chan Peruvian Restaurnant, Buenos Aires
Day 4.3 – Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires
Day 5.1 – Pasaje Defensa, Buenos Aires
Day 5.2 – Buseo de Arte Moderno, Buenos Aires
Day 5.3 – Cafe San Juan, Buenos Aires
Day 5.4 – Cementerio de la Recoleta (2nd Visit), Buenos Aires
Day 5.5 – Dylan Ice-cream Parlour, Buenos Aires

* * *

South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 4 (2 of 3) – CHAN CHAN PERUVIAN RESTAURANT, BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

After our trip to Peru in 2010, we became fond of Peruvian cuisine.  From research, we came across a popular Peruvian restaurant in Central Buenos Aires called Chan Chan.  Named after the famous ruined city in Northern Peru, Chan Chan is a small delightful restaurant near the Congress.  We were just in time to take the last available table before people starting to line up at the door.  We ordered a seafood soup, a fish on rice, and a shrimp aji (shrimps on special sauce).  We were delighted by the food and the price was also reasonable.

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Read other posts on Buenos Aires, Argentina
1. South America 2013
2. Journey Begins

Day 1.1 – San Telmo Loft, Buenos Aires
Day 1.2 – First Walk in Buenos Aires
Day 2.1 – Morning Stroll in San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Day 2.2 – Cementer de la Recoleta, Buenos Aires
Day 2.3 – Architectural Bennale, Buenos Aires
Day 2.4 – El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenos Aires
Day 3.1 – Don Julio Parrillas, Buenos Aires
Day 3.2 – Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Day 3.3 – Teatro Colon, Buenos Aires
Day 4.1 – Malba, Buenos Aires
Day 4.2 – Chan Chan Peruvian Restaurnant, Buenos Aires
Day 4.3 – Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires
Day 5.1 – Pasaje Defensa, Buenos Aires
Day 5.2 – Buseo de Arte Moderno, Buenos Aires
Day 5.3 – Cafe San Juan, Buenos Aires
Day 5.4 – Cementerio de la Recoleta (2nd Visit), Buenos Aires
Day 5.5 – Dylan Ice-cream Parlour, Buenos Aires

Next Destination: Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Continuing on our journey from post Day 6.1

* * *

South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 4 (1 of 3) – MALBA, BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

We had the first gallery visit of our trip at Museo de Arte Latinoamericano (MALBA) in Palermo District. The building was designed by AFT Architects, a local architectural firm with projects across Argentina. As we entered the building, we were immediately drawn to the airy four-level atrium. There were three levels of exhibition spaces. Installations were in progress on both the top and the lower levels. As a result, we could only access the permanent galleries at the second level. Despite limited in area, the well curated permanent galleries offered us a pleasant introduction to the modern art of Latin America. Other than the permanent collections, there was a temporary gallery showing installation work by local artist Liliana Porter. Named “The man with an axe and other brief situations”, the main installation consisted of miniature pieces depicting tiny humans engaged in various activities and situations. We were accompanied by a school group, who were constantly amused by everything they saw in the museum.

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Read other posts on Buenos Aires, Argentina
1. South America 2013
2. Journey Begins

Day 1.1 – San Telmo Loft, Buenos Aires
Day 1.2 – First Walk in Buenos Aires
Day 2.1 – Morning Stroll in San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Day 2.2 – Cementer de la Recoleta, Buenos Aires
Day 2.3 – Architectural Bennale, Buenos Aires
Day 2.4 – El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenos Aires
Day 3.1 – Don Julio Parrillas, Buenos Aires
Day 3.2 – Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Day 3.3 – Teatro Colon, Buenos Aires
Day 4.1 – Malba, Buenos Aires
Day 4.2 – Chan Chan Peruvian Restaurnant, Buenos Aires
Day 4.3 – Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires
Day 5.1 – Pasaje Defensa, Buenos Aires
Day 5.2 – Buseo de Arte Moderno, Buenos Aires
Day 5.3 – Cafe San Juan, Buenos Aires
Day 5.4 – Cementerio de la Recoleta (2nd Visit), Buenos Aires
Day 5.5 – Dylan Ice-cream Parlour, Buenos Aires

Next Destination: Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Continuing on our journey from post Day 6.1

* * *

South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 3 (3 of 3) – TEATRO COLON, BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

Opened in 1908, Teatro Colon is the main opera house in Buenos Aires.  From 2006 to 2010, the opera house went through a massive refurbishment, which costs roughly $100 million.  We joined a 45-minute guided tour to visit the interior of the building, which began at the foyer, continued up the stair to the upper lobby and the golden room, and ended at the auditorium seating.  The sense of extravagance could be seen right from the start.  Almost all the original finishes at the foyer were imported from Europe: marble from Siena and Carrara of Italy and Portugal, stain glass from France, floor mosaic from England… We admired the craftsmanship and artistic effort involved in the construction and decorations, but the real impact for us was the acoustic quality of the auditorium.  While we were at the seating area, there was an orchestra rehearsal, offering us a brief taste of the building’s acoustics.

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* * *

Read other posts on Buenos Aires, Argentina
1. South America 2013
2. Journey Begins

Day 1.1 – San Telmo Loft, Buenos Aires
Day 1.2 – First Walk in Buenos Aires
Day 2.1 – Morning Stroll in San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Day 2.2 – Cementer de la Recoleta, Buenos Aires
Day 2.3 – Architectural Bennale, Buenos Aires
Day 2.4 – El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenos Aires
Day 3.1 – Don Julio Parrillas, Buenos Aires
Day 3.2 – Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Day 3.3 – Teatro Colon, Buenos Aires
Day 4.1 – Malba, Buenos Aires
Day 4.2 – Chan Chan Peruvian Restaurnant, Buenos Aires
Day 4.3 – Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires
Day 5.1 – Pasaje Defensa, Buenos Aires
Day 5.2 – Buseo de Arte Moderno, Buenos Aires
Day 5.3 – Cafe San Juan, Buenos Aires
Day 5.4 – Cementerio de la Recoleta (2nd Visit), Buenos Aires
Day 5.5 – Dylan Ice-cream Parlour, Buenos Aires

Next Destination: Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Continuing on our journey from post Day 6.1

* * *

South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 3 (2 of 3) – PALERMO SOHO, BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

Exercise was needed after the heavy parrilla meal at Don Julio.  It took us five minutes to reach Palermo SOHO, the trendy heart of the District of Palermo Viejo.  Here streets are dotted with cafes, fashion boutiques, restaurants, and design shops.  Most shops are housed in converted low-rise buildings from the 19th century.  We enjoyed a bit of window shopping.

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* * *

Read other posts on Buenos Aires, Argentina
1. South America 2013
2. Journey Begins

Day 1.1 – San Telmo Loft, Buenos Aires
Day 1.2 – First Walk in Buenos Aires
Day 2.1 – Morning Stroll in San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Day 2.2 – Cementer de la Recoleta, Buenos Aires
Day 2.3 – Architectural Bennale, Buenos Aires
Day 2.4 – El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenos Aires
Day 3.1 – Don Julio Parrillas, Buenos Aires
Day 3.2 – Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Day 3.3 – Teatro Colon, Buenos Aires
Day 4.1 – Malba, Buenos Aires
Day 4.2 – Chan Chan Peruvian Restaurnant, Buenos Aires
Day 4.3 – Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires
Day 5.1 – Pasaje Defensa, Buenos Aires
Day 5.2 – Buseo de Arte Moderno, Buenos Aires
Day 5.3 – Cafe San Juan, Buenos Aires
Day 5.4 – Cementerio de la Recoleta (2nd Visit), Buenos Aires
Day 5.5 – Dylan Ice-cream Parlour, Buenos Aires

Next Destination: Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Continuing on our journey from post Day 6.1

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 3 (1 of 3) – DON JULIO PARRILLAS, BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

Visiting to a parrilla (steakhouse) is a “must-do” in Buenois Aires for all non-vegetarians. Raised in the pampas outside Buenos Aires, where temperature is mild and rainfall is stable year round, the Argentine pastures are famous for producing some of the finest beef in the world. Furthermore, the gaucho culture has played a huge role in the preparation and consumption of Argentine beef. We had high expectations and we were not disappointed. In the District of Palermo Viejo, we chose a traditional parrilla called Don Julio. We arrived at noon sharp when the restaurant just opened its door. We got a table by the window, with a view to the open grill. Overall we were very satisfied with the dining experience, despite the beef portions were a little too big for us!
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Grilled Rinon (grilled kidney)
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Foreground: Bife de Chorizo Ancho (thick slice of sirloin steak); Background: Bife de Caudril (rump steak)
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Ensalade (mixed salad)

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Read other posts on Buenos Aires, Argentina
1. South America 2013
2. Journey Begins

Day 1.1 – San Telmo Loft, Buenos Aires
Day 1.2 – First Walk in Buenos Aires
Day 2.1 – Morning Stroll in San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Day 2.2 – Cementer de la Recoleta, Buenos Aires
Day 2.3 – Architectural Bennale, Buenos Aires
Day 2.4 – El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenos Aires
Day 3.1 – Don Julio Parrillas, Buenos Aires
Day 3.2 – Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Day 3.3 – Teatro Colon, Buenos Aires
Day 4.1 – Malba, Buenos Aires
Day 4.2 – Chan Chan Peruvian Restaurnant, Buenos Aires
Day 4.3 – Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires
Day 5.1 – Pasaje Defensa, Buenos Aires
Day 5.2 – Buseo de Arte Moderno, Buenos Aires
Day 5.3 – Cafe San Juan, Buenos Aires
Day 5.4 – Cementerio de la Recoleta (2nd Visit), Buenos Aires
Day 5.5 – Dylan Ice-cream Parlour, Buenos Aires

Next Destination: Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Continuing on our journey from post Day 6.1

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought