ultramarinus – beyond the sea

Buenos Aires

DAY 4 (1 of 3) – MALBA, BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

We had the first gallery visit of our trip at Museo de Arte Latinoamericano (MALBA) in Palermo District. The building was designed by AFT Architects, a local architectural firm with projects across Argentina. As we entered the building, we were immediately drawn to the airy four-level atrium. There were three levels of exhibition spaces. Installations were in progress on both the top and the lower levels. As a result, we could only access the permanent galleries at the second level. Despite limited in area, the well curated permanent galleries offered us a pleasant introduction to the modern art of Latin America. Other than the permanent collections, there was a temporary gallery showing installation work by local artist Liliana Porter. Named “The man with an axe and other brief situations”, the main installation consisted of miniature pieces depicting tiny humans engaged in various activities and situations. We were accompanied by a school group, who were constantly amused by everything they saw in the museum.

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Read other posts on Buenos Aires, Argentina
1. South America 2013
2. Journey Begins

Day 1.1 – San Telmo Loft, Buenos Aires
Day 1.2 – First Walk in Buenos Aires
Day 2.1 – Morning Stroll in San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Day 2.2 – Cementer de la Recoleta, Buenos Aires
Day 2.3 – Architectural Bennale, Buenos Aires
Day 2.4 – El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenos Aires
Day 3.1 – Don Julio Parrillas, Buenos Aires
Day 3.2 – Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Day 3.3 – Teatro Colon, Buenos Aires
Day 4.1 – Malba, Buenos Aires
Day 4.2 – Chan Chan Peruvian Restaurnant, Buenos Aires
Day 4.3 – Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires
Day 5.1 – Pasaje Defensa, Buenos Aires
Day 5.2 – Buseo de Arte Moderno, Buenos Aires
Day 5.3 – Cafe San Juan, Buenos Aires
Day 5.4 – Cementerio de la Recoleta (2nd Visit), Buenos Aires
Day 5.5 – Dylan Ice-cream Parlour, Buenos Aires

Next Destination: Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Continuing on our journey from post Day 6.1

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South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought

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DAY 3 (3 of 3) – TEATRO COLON, BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

Opened in 1908, Teatro Colon is the main opera house in Buenos Aires.  From 2006 to 2010, the opera house went through a massive refurbishment, which costs roughly $100 million.  We joined a 45-minute guided tour to visit the interior of the building, which began at the foyer, continued up the stair to the upper lobby and the golden room, and ended at the auditorium seating.  The sense of extravagance could be seen right from the start.  Almost all the original finishes at the foyer were imported from Europe: marble from Siena and Carrara of Italy and Portugal, stain glass from France, floor mosaic from England… We admired the craftsmanship and artistic effort involved in the construction and decorations, but the real impact for us was the acoustic quality of the auditorium.  While we were at the seating area, there was an orchestra rehearsal, offering us a brief taste of the building’s acoustics.

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Read other posts on Buenos Aires, Argentina
1. South America 2013
2. Journey Begins

Day 1.1 – San Telmo Loft, Buenos Aires
Day 1.2 – First Walk in Buenos Aires
Day 2.1 – Morning Stroll in San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Day 2.2 – Cementer de la Recoleta, Buenos Aires
Day 2.3 – Architectural Bennale, Buenos Aires
Day 2.4 – El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenos Aires
Day 3.1 – Don Julio Parrillas, Buenos Aires
Day 3.2 – Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Day 3.3 – Teatro Colon, Buenos Aires
Day 4.1 – Malba, Buenos Aires
Day 4.2 – Chan Chan Peruvian Restaurnant, Buenos Aires
Day 4.3 – Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires
Day 5.1 – Pasaje Defensa, Buenos Aires
Day 5.2 – Buseo de Arte Moderno, Buenos Aires
Day 5.3 – Cafe San Juan, Buenos Aires
Day 5.4 – Cementerio de la Recoleta (2nd Visit), Buenos Aires
Day 5.5 – Dylan Ice-cream Parlour, Buenos Aires

Next Destination: Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Continuing on our journey from post Day 6.1

* * *

South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 3 (2 of 3) – PALERMO SOHO, BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

Exercise was needed after the heavy parrilla meal at Don Julio.  It took us five minutes to reach Palermo SOHO, the trendy heart of the District of Palermo Viejo.  Here streets are dotted with cafes, fashion boutiques, restaurants, and design shops.  Most shops are housed in converted low-rise buildings from the 19th century.  We enjoyed a bit of window shopping.

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Read other posts on Buenos Aires, Argentina
1. South America 2013
2. Journey Begins

Day 1.1 – San Telmo Loft, Buenos Aires
Day 1.2 – First Walk in Buenos Aires
Day 2.1 – Morning Stroll in San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Day 2.2 – Cementer de la Recoleta, Buenos Aires
Day 2.3 – Architectural Bennale, Buenos Aires
Day 2.4 – El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenos Aires
Day 3.1 – Don Julio Parrillas, Buenos Aires
Day 3.2 – Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Day 3.3 – Teatro Colon, Buenos Aires
Day 4.1 – Malba, Buenos Aires
Day 4.2 – Chan Chan Peruvian Restaurnant, Buenos Aires
Day 4.3 – Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires
Day 5.1 – Pasaje Defensa, Buenos Aires
Day 5.2 – Buseo de Arte Moderno, Buenos Aires
Day 5.3 – Cafe San Juan, Buenos Aires
Day 5.4 – Cementerio de la Recoleta (2nd Visit), Buenos Aires
Day 5.5 – Dylan Ice-cream Parlour, Buenos Aires

Next Destination: Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Continuing on our journey from post Day 6.1

* * *

South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 3 (1 of 3) – DON JULIO PARRILLAS, BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

Visiting to a parrilla (steakhouse) is a “must-do” in Buenois Aires for all non-vegetarians. Raised in the pampas outside Buenos Aires, where temperature is mild and rainfall is stable year round, the Argentine pastures are famous for producing some of the finest beef in the world. Furthermore, the gaucho culture has played a huge role in the preparation and consumption of Argentine beef. We had high expectations and we were not disappointed. In the District of Palermo Viejo, we chose a traditional parrilla called Don Julio. We arrived at noon sharp when the restaurant just opened its door. We got a table by the window, with a view to the open grill. Overall we were very satisfied with the dining experience, despite the beef portions were a little too big for us!
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Grilled Rinon (grilled kidney)
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Foreground: Bife de Chorizo Ancho (thick slice of sirloin steak); Background: Bife de Caudril (rump steak)
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Ensalade (mixed salad)

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Read other posts on Buenos Aires, Argentina
1. South America 2013
2. Journey Begins

Day 1.1 – San Telmo Loft, Buenos Aires
Day 1.2 – First Walk in Buenos Aires
Day 2.1 – Morning Stroll in San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Day 2.2 – Cementer de la Recoleta, Buenos Aires
Day 2.3 – Architectural Bennale, Buenos Aires
Day 2.4 – El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenos Aires
Day 3.1 – Don Julio Parrillas, Buenos Aires
Day 3.2 – Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Day 3.3 – Teatro Colon, Buenos Aires
Day 4.1 – Malba, Buenos Aires
Day 4.2 – Chan Chan Peruvian Restaurnant, Buenos Aires
Day 4.3 – Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires
Day 5.1 – Pasaje Defensa, Buenos Aires
Day 5.2 – Buseo de Arte Moderno, Buenos Aires
Day 5.3 – Cafe San Juan, Buenos Aires
Day 5.4 – Cementerio de la Recoleta (2nd Visit), Buenos Aires
Day 5.5 – Dylan Ice-cream Parlour, Buenos Aires

Next Destination: Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Continuing on our journey from post Day 6.1

* * *

South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 2 (4 of 4) – EL ATENEO GRAND SPLENDID, BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

El Ateneo Grand Splendid, a prominent bookstore near Avenue Santa Fe  and Calleo, presents a role model for a successful heritage renewal project.  Formerly known as Teatro Gran Splendid, the space was converted into a bookstore in 2000s.  The seating was removed but much of its former interior remained.  The old foyer and the three-level seating areas were converted into book display zones.  Some balconies were transformed into reading boxes.  The stage was turned into a coffee shop.  After a short break at the coffee shop “on stage”, we climbed to the third level for the best overview of the entire store.

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Read other posts on Buenos Aires, Argentina
1. South America 2013
2. Journey Begins

Day 1.1 – San Telmo Loft, Buenos Aires
Day 1.2 – First Walk in Buenos Aires
Day 2.1 – Morning Stroll in San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Day 2.2 – Cementer de la Recoleta, Buenos Aires
Day 2.3 – Architectural Bennale, Buenos Aires
Day 2.4 – El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenos Aires
Day 3.1 – Don Julio Parrillas, Buenos Aires
Day 3.2 – Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Day 3.3 – Teatro Colon, Buenos Aires
Day 4.1 – Malba, Buenos Aires
Day 4.2 – Chan Chan Peruvian Restaurnant, Buenos Aires
Day 4.3 – Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires
Day 5.1 – Pasaje Defensa, Buenos Aires
Day 5.2 – Buseo de Arte Moderno, Buenos Aires
Day 5.3 – Cafe San Juan, Buenos Aires
Day 5.4 – Cementerio de la Recoleta (2nd Visit), Buenos Aires
Day 5.5 – Dylan Ice-cream Parlour, Buenos Aires

Next Destination: Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Continuing on our journey from post Day 6.1

* * *

South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 2 (3 of 4) – ARCHITECTURAL BIENNALE, BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

Conveniently held at the Recoleta Cultural Centre next to the Recoleta Cemetery, the Bienal Internacional de Arquitectura de BA introduced us to some recent projects in South America.  Interesting displays include works by Peru’s Barclay Crousse, Switzerland’s Richter Dahl Rocha, and the South America Project (SAP), a design research network initiated by Felipe Correa and Ana Maria Duran Calisto, with the support of Harvard GSD, David Rockefeller Center for Latin American Studies, and the Loeb Fellowship.
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Read other posts on Buenos Aires, Argentina
1. South America 2013
2. Journey Begins

Day 1.1 – San Telmo Loft, Buenos Aires
Day 1.2 – First Walk in Buenos Aires
Day 2.1 – Morning Stroll in San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Day 2.2 – Cementer de la Recoleta, Buenos Aires
Day 2.3 – Architectural Bennale, Buenos Aires
Day 2.4 – El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenos Aires
Day 3.1 – Don Julio Parrillas, Buenos Aires
Day 3.2 – Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Day 3.3 – Teatro Colon, Buenos Aires
Day 4.1 – Malba, Buenos Aires
Day 4.2 – Chan Chan Peruvian Restaurnant, Buenos Aires
Day 4.3 – Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires
Day 5.1 – Pasaje Defensa, Buenos Aires
Day 5.2 – Buseo de Arte Moderno, Buenos Aires
Day 5.3 – Cafe San Juan, Buenos Aires
Day 5.4 – Cementerio de la Recoleta (2nd Visit), Buenos Aires
Day 5.5 – Dylan Ice-cream Parlour, Buenos Aires

Next Destination: Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Continuing on our journey from post Day 6.1

* * *

South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought


DAY 2 (2 of 4) – CEMENTERIO DE LA RECOLETA, BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

The visit to the most famous cemetery in Buenos Aires was like a stroll in a neigbhourhood full of beautifully designed mansions. We both agreed that Recoleta Cemetery is the most beautiful cemetery we have ever been to. The planning of Recoleta Cemetery resembles a city with main walkways flanked by splendid mausoleums and narrower walkways lined with smaller tomb structures. Mausoleum designs range from Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Neo-Classical, Neo-Gothic, to Modernist and Minimalist. Many mausoleums are richly decorated with statues and ornaments made with imported materials from Europe. Despite the distinct styles, each mausoleum forms part of a coherent whole of a peaceful scene. Most mausoleums are guarded with ornamental iron gate. Some have glass doors which allow visitors to look into the structure, as if the coffins and personal items of the deceased are on display at an open air museum. We wandered from walkways to walkways, taking photos and admiring many of the fine ornaments: marble statues, stone angles, stain-glass structure, bronze animals, etc. Some decorations were so engaging that they made us wanting to know more about the story of the deceased. We stopped by the tomb of Evita, and saw a funeral service as we headed out the cemetery gate. Well dressed participants of the service chatted and hugged each other as workers moved the coffin out of the car.
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Read other posts on Buenos Aires, Argentina
1. South America 2013
2. Journey Begins

Day 1.1 – San Telmo Loft, Buenos Aires
Day 1.2 – First Walk in Buenos Aires
Day 2.1 – Morning Stroll in San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Day 2.2 – Cementer de la Recoleta, Buenos Aires
Day 2.3 – Architectural Bennale, Buenos Aires
Day 2.4 – El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenos Aires
Day 3.1 – Don Julio Parrillas, Buenos Aires
Day 3.2 – Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires
Day 3.3 – Teatro Colon, Buenos Aires
Day 4.1 – Malba, Buenos Aires
Day 4.2 – Chan Chan Peruvian Restaurnant, Buenos Aires
Day 4.3 – Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires
Day 5.1 – Pasaje Defensa, Buenos Aires
Day 5.2 – Buseo de Arte Moderno, Buenos Aires
Day 5.3 – Cafe San Juan, Buenos Aires
Day 5.4 – Cementerio de la Recoleta (2nd Visit), Buenos Aires
Day 5.5 – Dylan Ice-cream Parlour, Buenos Aires

Next Destination: Puerto Iguazu, Argentina
Continuing on our journey from post Day 6.1

* * *

South America 2013 – Our Destinations
Buenos Aires (Argentina), Iguazu Falls (Argentina/Brazil), Pantanal (Brazil), Brasilia (Brazil), Belo Horizonte & Inhotim (Brazil), Ouro Preto (Brazil), Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Paraty (Brazil), Sao Paulo (Brazil), Samaipata & Santa Cruz (Bolivia), Sucre (Bolivia), Potosi (Bolivia), Southwest Circuit (Bolivia), Tilcara, Purmamarca, Salta (Argentina), Cafayate (Argentina), San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), Antofagasta & Paranal Observatory (Chile), Chiloe (Chile), Puerto Varas (Chile), Torres del Paine (Chile), Ushuaia (Argentina), El Chalten (Argentina), El Calafate (Argentina), Isla Magdalena (Argentina), Santiago (Chile), Valparaiso (Chile), Afterthought