ultramarinus – beyond the sea

DAY 2 (1/6): MORNING STROLL IN SOUTHERN HIGASHIYAMA (東山), Kyoto (京都), Japan, 2016.12.04

There is perhaps no better place in Kyoto to take a morning stroll than the area of Southern Higashiyama, in the historical alleyways between Yasaka Jinja (八坂神社) and Kiyomizu-dera Temple (清水寺).  The bus dropped us off at the street intersection of Higashioji Dori (東大路通) and Shijo Dori (四条通).  We picked up a box of sushi from Lawson convenience store for breakfast, then crossed the road to enter Yasaka Shrine from its west gate.  Yasaka Jinja is one of the most popular shrines in Kyoto, especially when the most famous festival in Japan, Gion Matsuri, takes place annually in July for over a thousand years.  Though in the early morning that we visited, there were only a handful of worshipers and tourists around.  Like many Shinto shrines, Yasaka was like a park dotted with pavilions and shrines.  The most prominent feature in Yasaka was the central pavilion of lanterns with donor names written on them.  Exiting the shrine from its south gate, we headed south in the direction of Kiyomizu-dera, intending to return to this iconic temple for a daytime visit.  Soon we reached the entrance of a traditional stone paved alleyway known as Ishibei Koji (石塀小路).  Flanked both sides by historical timber homes, restaurants and ryokans, the alleyway exemplified what Medieval Kyoto might be like.  We were delighted to have the lane all by ourselves.  After making a few turns in Ishibei Koji, we exited the alleyway at the other end, standing just a stone throw away from two other greatly preserved historical alleyways, Ninenzaka (二年坂) and Sannenzaka (三年坂).

From Ishibei Koji, we continued to walk south on Nene-no-michi Lane (ねねの道), the historical stone paved street in front of the park of Kodaiji Temple.  Soon we arrived at the picturesque Ninenzaka (二年坂).  Timber townhouses known as machiya (町屋) were beautifully preserved along this heritage lane.  Telephone cables which were normally suspended in mid air from street poles to street poles were nowhere to be seen.  It was still early, shops had yet opened their doors and there were hardly any other tourists.  We took our time to soak up the historical atmosphere.  When we reached Yasaka Dori (八坂通), we made a short detour down to take a daytime photo of the Yasaka Pagoda of Hokanji Temple (法観寺 八坂の塔).  Heading back uphill and we soon arrived at Sannenzaka (三年坂), another atmospheric lane with steps that led us to Matsubara Dori (松原通), the last bit of road that would take us back to the entrance of the most iconic temple in Japan, Kiyomizu-dera Temple (清水寺).

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAArriving at the intersection of Higashioji Dori (東大路通) and Shijo Dori (四条通).

03The west gate of Yasaka Jinja (八坂神社)

04We also passed by smaller shrines in the complex.

06There were hardly anyone around at the main court of the complex.

dsc_1815Traditional lanterns written with donor’s name.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWalking along a lane with orange fence and lanterns and autumn foliage.

08Two ladies walking uphill towards Maruyama Park (円山公園).

09Vending machine and the iconic Yasaka Pagoda in a distance.

10Poster regarding the night visits at Kiyomizu-dera.

11At IIshibei Koji, we had to keep quiet while walking through the stone paved lane.

12Temple houses at IIshibei Koji.

13Temple houses at IIshibei Koji.

14A tiny shrine by a manhole at Nene-no-Michi Lane.

15Magnificent timber machiya along Sannenzaka.

16Approaching the steps of Sannenzaka.

dsc_1866Roadside shrine at Sannenzaka.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThe stepped part of Ninenzaka.

19Yasaka Pagoda as seen from Kamimachi (八坂通).

20Walking uphill at Sannenzaka.

dsc_1886Approaching the steps of Sannenzaka.

18.JPGLooking back down Sannenzaka from the steps.


Our posts on 2016 Kyoto and Nara:
DAY 1: ARRIVAL AT HIGASHIYAMA (東山), Kyoto (京都), Japan
DAY 1: RYOANJI TEMPLE (龍安寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan
DAY 1: NINNAJI TEMPLE (仁和寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan
DAY 1: KINKAKUJI TEMPLE (金閣寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan
DAY 1: KITANO TENMANGU SHRINE (北野天満宮), Kyoto (京都), Japan
DAY 1: NIGHT AT KIYOMIZU-DERA (清水寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan
DAY 2: KIYOMIZU DERA (清水寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan
DAY 2: KIYOMIZU DERA to KENNINJI, Kyoto (京都), Japan
DAY 2: ○△□ and Chouontei Garden and Ceiling of Twin Dragons, KENNINJI TEMPLE (建仁寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan
DAY 2: SFERA BUILDING (スフェラ・ビル), SHIRKAWA GION (祇園白川), KAMO RIVER (鴨川) & DOWNTOWN, Kyoto (京都), Japan
DAY 2: YAKITORI HITOMI (炭焼創彩鳥家 人見), Kyoto (京都), Japan
DAY 3: NANZENJI (南禅寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan
DAY 3: PHILOSOPHER’S PATH (哲学の道), Kyoto (京都), Japan
DAY 3: HONENIN (法然院), Kyoto (京都), Japan
DAY 3: GINKAKUJI (銀閣寺), Kyoto (京都), Japan
DAY 3: CRAB AND SAKE, Kyoto, Japan
DAY 4: HORYUJI (法隆寺), Nara (奈良), Japan
DAY 4: TODAIJI TEMPLE (東大寺), Nara (奈良), Japan
DAY 4: KASUGA TAISHA (春日大社), Nara (奈良), Japan
DAY 4: KOFUKUJI (興福寺), Nara (奈良), Japan
DAY 4: NAKAGAWA MASASHICHI SHOTEN (中川政七商店 遊中川), Nara (奈良), Japan
DAY 4: RAMEN & CHRISTMAS LIGHTS, Kyoto (京都), Japan
DAY 5: FUSHIMI INARI SHRINE (伏見稲荷大社) Part 1, Kyoto (京都), Japan
DAY 5: FUSHIMI INARI SHRINE (伏見稲荷大社) Part 2, Kyoto, Japan




Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s