DAY 5: SHORT HIKE NEAR PHYANG, Ladakh, India

Originally our last two full days in Ladakh was planned for a two-day tour to the Nubra Valley on the opposite side of Khardung La Pass, one of the world’s highest pass that can be reached by car at 5,359m. Unfortunately, in the evening before our departure, we were told by the manager of Ladakh Greens Hotel that out trip to the Nubra was no longer possible. In order to visit the region near the disputed border between India and China, all travelers are required to apply for a permit. Since we were born in Hong Kong, our application was rejected by the local authorities. As a result, we had no choice but to figure something else to do for the two days. The hotel manager made a few suggested alternatives, and we picked two short hikes near Leh. Trekking is big in Ladakh but we didn’t have enough time to do a decent trek. Day hikes around Leh at least gave us a brief taste of hiking in Ladakh.

In the morning, Tashi picked us up at the hotel and drove us to Phyang, a village about 15km west of Leh. The hotel manager suggested us to start our hike at a village called Dokla, but Tashi had trouble finding the way. Instead he drove us further uphill from Phyang and stopped at a village where a few houses stood and a series of farming terraces were constructed overlooking the Stok Mountain Range. Leaving Tashi behind, we get off the car, walked through a gateway of prayer flags, and headed up a small path towards the mountains behind Phyang. We were told that the path would ultimately reach Nubra Valley in a few days’ time, where we were denied access to in the first place. We hiked past a white stupa and followed a man-made irrigation channel uphill until we saw the clear running water of a mountain stream of melted water from mountain glaciers. On a rocky mount dotted with wild flowers we sat down and had some quick snacks that the hotel chef prepared for us. Across from where we sat a few tiny singing birds flew around piles of small pebbles. After a brief stop we continued to walk uphill in the highlands near Phyang until we saw a small herd of grazing cattle from a distance upstream.

On our way back to Phyang we once again passed by the point where stream water was diverted for the irrigation system downstream. Before reaching Tashi’s car, we passed by the white stupa once again. A few people were putting fresh white paint on the stupa. We exchanged some smiles and greetings with the friendly locals before heading back to Tashi’s car. After a fine morning of hiking, Tashi suggested us to take a little break in the car while he drove us downhill to Phyang, where we could walk around the village and visit Phyang Gompa. We gladly took his suggestion.

A tiny village uphill from Phyang where we started our hike. The majestic Stok Kangri and the Stok Range offered a magnificent backdrop.